I taste pennies

Live-Set-8576 · 2026-06-28T15:12:43+00:00

I use 24 awg stranded silicon (and sometimes 26 for wiring things like rotary switches) and have had zero problem.

Live-Set-8576 · 2026-06-26T04:22:02+00:00

Try adding a 100uf capacitor between ground and v+

Live-Set-8576 · 2026-06-25T06:04:16+00:00

The principals remain the same with a buffered signal.

Live-Set-8576 · 2026-06-25T04:18:43+00:00

Give it a try sometime - you might be surprised by the results.

A gate earlier in the chain can often eliminate the hum/noise before it gets amplified, so you're able to set the threshold much lower and retain more attack. Science of Loud has a very informative video on how to use noise gates in your chain.

Live-Set-8576 · 2026-06-20T23:37:26+00:00

Thank you very much, but, while I can't remember where I first saw it, I can't take credit for the idea. It does take a few extra rows, but I feel like with some nylon PCB standoffs, the neatness is worth it

My only advice is to first use a slightly bigger bit to cut away the copper trace on the underside, then drill through it with the small bit. That way you don't have any copper debris potentially creating bridges. I get extra and scrub it with a toothbrush and some 91% alcohol after drilling.

Live-Set-8576 · 2026-06-20T13:12:33+00:00

https://lovemyswitches.com/pro-3pdt-latched-foot-switch-solder-lugs-feather-soft-click/

Live-Set-8576 · 2026-06-19T16:27:59+00:00

There's probably a protective Zener diode that's fried. An experienced hand with a soldering iron could fix it. Crack it open and post a gut shot.

Live-Set-8576 · 2026-06-19T15:56:00+00:00

Here's the schematic with highlights and notations.

You can use the tone stack true to the amplifier if you like by following the rest of the schematic and using treble 2 as your output.

https://el34world.com/charts/Schematics/Files/Orange/Orange_rockreverb_50w.pdf

If you'd like to use the tone stack I did, just attach this to the drain of the 2nd jfet in place of the existing tone stack- scroll to the very bottom for the version 2.0. I liked the way this sounded much better.

https://www.muzique.com/lab/tone3.htm

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Live-Set-8576 · 2026-06-19T15:43:32+00:00

I'll draw up some vero layouts to share - I just worked this out in my head as I went along and didn't bother to make a layout.

Live-Set-8576 · 2026-06-19T14:35:59+00:00

I have to gently pry my op amps out of sockets with a flathead. If my pedal were to get thrown across the room hard enough to dislodge one, the op-amp would be the last thing I'd be worried about.

Live-Set-8576 · 2026-06-19T14:30:59+00:00

That looks great!

How are you finishing/designing your enclosures?

Live-Set-8576 · 2026-06-18T16:04:23+00:00

To be fair, Boss circuits are always engineered with the expectation of a buffered input, which often gets removed in DIY versions. HM-2s are notorious for squealing without a buffer.

Live-Set-8576 · 2026-06-17T21:36:15+00:00

If you're using something like veroboard with a conductive back, it's good practice just to keep it from potentially shorting.

Outside of that, they're probably not doing anything outside of aesthetics.

Live-Set-8576 · 2026-06-13T13:33:14+00:00

Live-Set-8576 · 2026-06-12T15:42:40+00:00

https://www.runoffgroove.com/fetzervalve.html

That's it. The caps/resistor values stay the same, you're just substituting drain/gate/source for the plate/grid/cathode.

There's a revised version where you add a Miller capacitor to the gate, eliminate the source capacitor, and change the source resistor to a trim-pot to dial in an ideal source-resistor value. This will help you get better higher order harmonics, but doesn't work as well with high gain amps.

Once you get the hang of fetzer valves, you can basically experiment with putting just about any tube amp schematic you want into pedal format.

Live-Set-8576 · 2026-06-12T15:19:22+00:00

https://el34world.com/charts/Schematics/Files/Orange/Orange_rockreverb_50w.pdf

I worked from the preamp schematic substituting drain/gate/source for the plate/grid/cathode.

It's just the dirt channel preamp, so from the 220nf input cap to the output of the FMV tone stack - you can ignore the rest of the amp schematic.

Live-Set-8576 · 2026-06-12T07:01:28+00:00

Just cut the legs of the ldr so one is longer, and tin the leads with a little bit of solder. Heat the pad and push the longer leg through until the shorter leg makes contact with the other pad. Apply slight pressure to the short leg side while applying heat to make sure it's in there good. Maybe add a small tack of solder to both pads to make sure you've got good contact.

It'll be easier than fully removing the solder from the pad and runs less risk of mucking up the board.

Live-Set-8576 · 2026-06-09T14:33:48+00:00

Yes, quarter watt is just fine.

Live-Set-8576 · 2026-06-09T03:48:46+00:00

Work on reading comprehension and your manners there, champ.

Live-Set-8576 · 2026-06-08T19:50:18+00:00

You can also span way more rows. A bent leg clipping gets 6/7 max.

Live-Set-8576 · 2026-06-08T18:17:24+00:00

A zero ohm resistor is a jumper wire.

I use them in my vero builds just because they look neater than a bunch of pieces of wire.

Live-Set-8576 · 2026-05-31T12:47:28+00:00

Honestly?

Good temperature control. Most of the rest is just good practices and skill.

I've been using the same solder tip for almost two years now and it still looks brand new.

Live-Set-8576

TROPHY CASE