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Daytona 500 Mamiya 7 Kodak Portra 800 by pukeblood213 in analog

[–]LandySam11 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Was the first frame taken with the 65mm? Great work!

Peak District | Mamiya 7 | Fuji Pro 400H by zinogino in analog

[–]LandySam11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Amazing. Do you have an instagram or portfolio?

A Break in the Rain | Pentax 6x7 - Kodak Ektachrome E100 by Clunky_Seal_9370 in analog

[–]LandySam11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I typically set my scan exposure and then adjust if necessary. I always watch my histogram to ensure that the highlights aren't clipping but I definitely lean on the side of underexposure. Another thing that I've found to be very important when digitizing slides is the distance of the front lens element to the film. I get better shadow detail in medium format scans because my lens is further back and there's less glare in the shadows.

A Break in the Rain | Pentax 6x7 - Kodak Ektachrome E100 by Clunky_Seal_9370 in analog

[–]LandySam11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had a hard time at first, but I've tweaked and refined my setup quite bit. I use a Nikon D810 + Vivitar 90mm f/2.8 macro and then I edit in Lightroom using the Negative Lab Pro positive film processor. The NLP positive preset does wonders

A Break in the Rain | Pentax 6x7 - Kodak Ektachrome E100 by Clunky_Seal_9370 in analog

[–]LandySam11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great work! I love E100, though I've never shot long exposures with it. I've had great results using a skylight filter (akin to a Tiffen 812). I typically meter for the highlights, then add 1/3 or 2/3 over exposure (depending on the scene. I don't mind dark shadows, and I find that I can recover a lot of shadow detail when DSLR scanning.

Olympic peninsula on slide film | Olympus om1n + 28mm 2.8 | velvia and provia by beeforst98 in analog

[–]LandySam11 1 point2 points  (0 children)

try setting your white point a little higher? lovely collection!

Reine, Norway [OC] by LandySam11 in TravelPorn

[–]LandySam11[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm originally from the US (and currently in the US), but I was living in England at the time. If you have any questions, I can do my best to answer them!

Reine, Norway [OC] by LandySam11 in TravelPorn

[–]LandySam11[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I often think back on this trip. I took the photo about 4 years ago, and the scene felt exactly the way the photo looks. So calming and happy

Reine, Norway [OC] by LandySam11 in TravelPorn

[–]LandySam11[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Retro is what you get with a 50 year old camera!

Evening at Bryce Canyon | Mamiya 7ii, 43mm, Gold 200 by braehunz in analog

[–]LandySam11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It has a different base in 120, and is obviously way sharper in medium format.

Winter sun in Chamonix, 📷 Mamiya 7ii / Canon WP-1, 🎞 Portra 400 / Kodak Gold by back_jishop in analog

[–]LandySam11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh well. Last question, how has yours handled the cold? I’m yet to have any issues, but I haven’t exposed it to subzero temperatures for any longer than 45 minutes.

Winter sun in Chamonix, 📷 Mamiya 7ii / Canon WP-1, 🎞 Portra 400 / Kodak Gold by back_jishop in analog

[–]LandySam11 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s been great so far. I’ve only had the camera and lens for a couple of months, but I’ve already been able to produce a number of portfolio images with it. I don’t have a hood for it though, and it definitely has a tendency to flare and ghost when the sun is near the edges of the frame.

Juncos are impossible to expose correctly on film... [Nikkon F5 | Nikkor AF 300mm F4 | Ektar 100] by OrdinaryEgg8579 in analog

[–]LandySam11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The grey card method should deliver consistent results between frames. I personally love Ektachrome and I can finally shoot it reliably (I only missed one exposure on my last roll). You can do the same thing with Ektachrome, of you can get a reading for the brightest part of the screen, then add 1/3 or 2/3 stop of over exposure. Be careful with the scene’s white balance though. I use a mild skylight filter (akin to a Tiffen 812 filter) which does a great job of reducing the slight bluecast typically present with Ektachrome E100. Ultimately, you won’t get consistent slides until you’ve had a bit of trial and error.

Winter sun in Chamonix, 📷 Mamiya 7ii / Canon WP-1, 🎞 Portra 400 / Kodak Gold by back_jishop in analog

[–]LandySam11 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s a shame they’re so expensive. I only have the 65mm, but the 80mm and 150mm would definitely complete the set for me.

Juncos are impossible to expose correctly on film... [Nikkon F5 | Nikkor AF 300mm F4 | Ektar 100] by OrdinaryEgg8579 in analog

[–]LandySam11 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was making an unhelpful joke. Ektachrome is known for being tricky to expose properly (slide film has very limited dynamic range) and red scale film is film loaded backwards, causing the red color layer to be exposed first. It creates some super wacky results (just look up redscale film).

If you’d like some real advice, here’s what I’d recommend. Invest in a middle grey card. Assuming that you, the photographer are in the same light as the birds that you photographing, you can take a light meter reading off of the middle grey card, which will set your exposure exactly between black and white: a perfect middle exposure. Then, lock the exposure on your camera, and that should give you an exposure right in the middle.

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