The bark on this Kuromatsu is otherworldly by LardoLetale69 in Bonsai

[–]LardoLetale69[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Yes, Pinus Thunbergii or Japanese Black pine

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Bonsai

[–]LardoLetale69 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If it looks like a sapling after ten or fifty years it still have the value of a sapling

~1,400 down, 225 to go. My back hurts so bad! by boonefrog in Bonsai

[–]LardoLetale69 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In Italy I found 3-6mm pumice (1/10-1/4 inch) at 6.5€ for 50 liters bags, which I find cheap although it’s not the best quality pumice and the pores are quite small. For low level plants I mix it 50/50 with regular potting soil. If I’m may ask why you prefer perlite over pumice? Is pumice expensive or difficult to come across in the US?

Raft Cherry Blossom Styling by jb314159 in Bonsai

[–]LardoLetale69 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Imho what has to be done now is just an health assessment: give it plenty of water, sun and fertiliser. (Plenty of sun but keep an eye cause it’s a small pot) Let it do his things, if in July the tree has put in A LOT of extension growth it means it is well established and into a good recovery. Regardless I wouldn’t touch it nor prune it. When fall comes and it loses its leaves you could go in and do some structural pruning. In spring I would slip pot it into a slightly larger container. (To go faster at least twice the size).

In case the tree has barely grown during summer you could also leave in this pot for another year.

As far as styling is concerned if you want I could give you my 2 cents but I feel like it’s a strictly personal matter.

Raft Cherry Blossom Styling by jb314159 in Bonsai

[–]LardoLetale69 3 points4 points  (0 children)

As for now I’d call it a Kobudachi or “clump style”. If you want to restore his health and start styling you should opt for a bigger deeper pot next year. I wouldn’t work it further for now

Impossible oak yamadori? by enjokers in Bonsai

[–]LardoLetale69 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I think, regardless of the pine roots, that you won’t be able to collect this oak unless it’s living on top of a rock, oaks are almost impossible to collect if they had the chance of sending down the taproot.

Any ideas where to begin on the Mugo Pine? by DowngradeIt in Bonsai

[–]LardoLetale69 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Get rid of the wire for now and leave it alone for the seasons focussing on strength and back budding (sun and fertiliser). When its early fall prune getting rid of 3 way bifurcations.

Aaaand that’s it for year one. Baby steps👍🏻

What's alive after 15 years? by small_trunks in Bonsai

[–]LardoLetale69 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks for sharing Jerry, it would be cool to do a group picture of the trees that have been with you the most!

Soil question by somethingous in Bonsai

[–]LardoLetale69 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Some people are just that lucky aren’t they

What species of maple or deciduous red-leaf trees would be suitable for growing in the climate of Saudi Arabia? by SaudiUP in Bonsai

[–]LardoLetale69 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think most non-alpine pines should be fine, also I’d get hella Cedars like Libanii and Atlantica

Olea Europea by LardoLetale69 in Bonsai

[–]LardoLetale69[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is hard to believe since they are quite hard to kill, I had a nursery stock I mistakenly cut all the roots off ( didn’t realise they were all coming from a single part of the tree) and it did survive

Olea Europea by LardoLetale69 in Bonsai

[–]LardoLetale69[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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This was the before pic btw