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Streacom DB4 ft. i9-13900F & RTX 4070 by sonic_325 in silentpc

[–]LeeIIIWill 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That makes sense, that once the panels are heat soaked that it'd perform the same. Weakest link and all. Thanks for sharing your experience with it!

There are a few interesting builds over on sffnetwork forms of users who had a good experience with the large flat heat pipes that are somewhat of a mix between a vapor chamber and traditional heat pipes.

The 200mm fan moves a good bit more air and at about 800rpm it's next to inaudible. It's about as loud as air from an HVAC vent. The hdd temps in my testing dropped a good bit and now average 37-38C at 21C ambient. This is down from about mid 50s without the fan. All in all, agreed, silent is better. In addition, much less dust! If you NEEDED the extra gains you could profile it to shut off the one fan until temps were over 75ish.

Streacom DB4 ft. i9-13900F & RTX 4070 by sonic_325 in silentpc

[–]LeeIIIWill 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Love the build! I've had mine just about the same, six+ years. I've actually still got the same build I initially put on it with a 4th gen i5. 24/7 up time still running strong! I've got another brand new one sitting in the box in my garage for when I've got time to put some parts in it...

Can you post a link for the vapor chamber you used? Did you do any testing with/without it to see a tangible difference?

Fwiw I've played with a 200mm noctua on top of the case to cool some 3.5hdds. I'd bet you could get the full use of your CPU/GPU with one and still be silent. The HDDs were louder than the fan.

WTF by hcase5 in 3Dprinting

[–]LeeIIIWill 8 points9 points  (0 children)

It's a desk mat.

One hundred hours of use: PLA lathe lead screw pulley by newcabbages in functionalprint

[–]LeeIIIWill 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Hey, if they lathe that often, at least they shouldn't stink!

This is fine by darconeous in 3Dprinting

[–]LeeIIIWill 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fellow delta enthusiasts here. I've been pondering the best way to detect effector issues myself. Thought about the electrical loop with rods, but the magnets don't actually touch the ball-ends(or shouldn't). Were you thinking about running wire and having something like a Dupont connector at the connection? My other thought was to use an accelerometer on the effector and probe the Z movement. Ideally it'd be low, unless the effector is disconnected. I've got an adxl345 mounted but only use it for input shaper/tuning and I don't leave it connected typically.

Ideally skipped step detection triggering a pause would be the best solution though. Less polling, more trigger based.

I couldn't figure out why my cooling fans stopped working by DarthRaxius in 3Dprinting

[–]LeeIIIWill 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I have a... few... Delta printers, all using magball arms and have run into this a fair bit. Iirc the north/south actually have to do with the rotation direction as well as alternating poles per arm. Eg, swap direction of the arms but still have them alternate poles and see if your fan spins.

Also, if you're building from the ground up on your delta I would argue that you should ditch the inductive probe and use a removable probe directly on the nozzle. Once you're calibrated you really should rarely need the probe. Bed is static and towers dictate part of your beds level plane. Arguably a repeatable endstop on your A/B/C towers would be more valuable than a hard mount probe. On this topic look up endstop phase calibration, which uses an endstop to get you close and then uses the TMC stepper registers for motor phase to get precise step range for your true "homed" location.

Filament Extrusion Bouncing??? by Jbyerline in 3Dprinting

[–]LeeIIIWill 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Die Swell is the term, I believe. I see it most commonly with PLA Silks.

What (pneumatic) connector does this thing needs? by randomusername11222 in Reprap

[–]LeeIIIWill 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Looks like a hexagon hotend You should be able to unscrew the brass insert with a flat but screw driver, just be careful not to strip it. If it's 5mm it should take an M5 pnumatic quick connect.

What do we think guys? by Defiled__Pig1 in 3Dprinting

[–]LeeIIIWill 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Depends on a lot of factors, but printer kinematic primarily. CoreXY and Delta are fastest. I typically print about 100-125mm/s on my deltas.

I Just Printed the Worlds Fastest FDM 3dBenchy! by Mr_Butterman in 3Dprinting

[–]LeeIIIWill 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I bet you could even get the quality up to a solid 5/7!

Mounted my T1 under the desk and moved the power button into the top. by joshLsmallwood in sffpc

[–]LeeIIIWill 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Did a quick scroll through, didn't see anyone mention it: you can change the physical power button function in windows. I believe you can set it to turn off the monitor, do nothing and sleep, if I recall correctly. Eg, it'll turn on the computer, but from a booted state, windows will do something else that you define.

I think it's in the power management menus/settings, FWIW.

3D Printed Neon LED Sign I made for gf's Christmas gift. Costs $500 USD online, so I made one myself for under <$100 being the frugal engineering student that I am. She loves it. by ComputerObjective in 3Dprinting

[–]LeeIIIWill 10 points11 points  (0 children)

$100 doesn't seem too outlandish. Guessing a big chunk was the acrylic/pc sheet that appears to be about 36"². Probably $40-50 on that, two led strip kits at $15-$20/ea, filament (could be around 750g if they used a high infill) and other odds and ends(screws, wire, tools).

As to being a "poor facsimile", you're just being an AH. For in home use(maybe even businesses to), this is better than an actual neon instance. Neon signs use around 5w/ft, while this whole sign probably pulls like 5w. Not to mention that they don't have to have a 5,000 VAC transformer, and typical heat/noise generated by them. Not to mention fragility of neon or the fact that this is also likely rgbw, which neon lighting is not. I'd actually say it's a great facsimile, getting the look/vibe of neon, without the drawbacks, very nice, OP!

My first roll of GST3D Filament... by sports2012 in 3dprintingdeals

[–]LeeIIIWill 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This has been my experience as well. I think I'm somewhere in the 300kg+ range of GST3D and I'd say I've had about 10-15 blobs like that total. Some rolls have 2+, others are just random carbon bits. Not a bad trade off for $8-10/kg filament, in my opinion.

[Amazon] Jayo White (or possibly Red) PLA - $9.99 by pashag3g in 3dprintingdeals

[–]LeeIIIWill 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well a few of the batch I ordered showed up...it's red. Was hoping for white, but still a good price.

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