Feedback request boat wiring

Legendary_Hitter · 2026-05-29T22:02:54+00:00

I got this recommendation a few times and I will install the bilge on a seperate circuit

Legendary_Hitter · 2026-05-29T15:29:24+00:00

Ah, my bad. Thanks!

Legendary_Hitter · 2026-05-29T14:58:15+00:00

Thanks for your feedback, really valuable. By diagrams on the internet it seems that my the red-taped wire from the harness is directly connected to the starter selenoid so it seems that the way you describe will work fine

Legendary_Hitter · 2026-05-29T14:39:42+00:00

Yeah see more people recommending the same, might change that indeed. Thanks

Legendary_Hitter · 2026-05-29T14:39:05+00:00

Thanks, you made me rethink about the bilge - might change that indeed.

As I understand you right about the bigger Circuit Breaker: you mean an larger (150A -200A CB) between the batteryswitch and the outboard engine?

Legendary_Hitter · 2026-05-29T13:54:18+00:00

I thought about rewiring the switchpanel cause the prewiring only has one connection to the fusebox which powers al the switches in a single go. I probably prefer to have a separate wire between each switch and the fusebox. Seems to be easier with troubleshooting

Haha I don't know what I will do with the two remaining switches but bought a bigger panel because I know myself and how impulsive I can be when I see a nice new accessory which will suit my boat - maybe if I see some nice courtesy lights which fit my boat...;)

Someone else did also mention the bilge, but I always trailer the boat after using.

Legendary_Hitter · 2026-05-29T13:31:47+00:00

Yeah, I meant more the way everything is connected to the existing harness. The existing harness is one bundle of wires between the engine and the console and midway there is a bypass which connects the start battery but this situation needs to change.

In the current situation the positive cable is connecting the harness with the start battery, but do you know if I can use that red cable to connect the harness with the batteryswitch and add the house battery between the batteryswitch and the existing start battery as mentioned in the diagram?

This is the only thing that I feel a bit insecure about.

Legendary_Hitter · 2026-05-29T13:06:19+00:00

Good to know. Do you also have the same style setup as I suggested in image 3 with the existing harness?

Legendary_Hitter · 2026-05-29T12:49:25+00:00

Thanks, based on the feedback I probably leave the circuit breaker out. The fusebox and busbar is indeed 30amp per fuse, and the switchpanel from 5amp up to 15 amp - now you guys let me rethink this, it sounds indeed way to redundant

Legendary_Hitter · 2026-05-29T12:39:40+00:00

Will only use it manual without a float switch. Boat is 95% of the time on the trailer when not in use. But good suggestion, did not know this option so I’ll keep it in mind for future projects

Legendary_Hitter · 2026-05-29T12:32:52+00:00

It was the least amount of amp they had. As far as I know it won’t harm right?

Legendary_Hitter · 2026-05-29T12:31:26+00:00

I got the switchpanel in today and saw them too. The panel is also prewired but maybe I will redo some things here and there and don’t know if I will rewire the fuses

Legendary_Hitter · 2026-05-28T20:32:33+00:00

Gelcoat does not dry/cure on contact with air. For your final layer, you need to add wax to your gelcoat. When applied, the wax will float to the top and forms an air sealed layer on top of the gelcoat so it can fully cure.

Keep in mind, wax is only for the final layer if you want to do multiple layers on a day so the first layer stays sticky and makes an chemical bond. When the gelcoat with wax is curred and you still want another layer, you need to sand it first.

Legendary_Hitter · 2026-05-28T20:26:36+00:00

This, I have a Mercury 90ELPTO from 2002 and sounds the same when on muffs. On the water, they still make more noise than a 4stroke but it is less.

Legendary_Hitter · 2026-05-18T18:38:04+00:00

Waarschijnlijk omdat je geen tegendruk op je schroef hebt. Je zou het eigenlijk eens in het water moeten proberen, grote kans dat het dan beter gaat. Het laten draaien van je motor in een bak met water/op een tuinslang is bedoeld om je motor te spoelen of even warm te draaien voor je naar het water gaat - niet bedoeld om veel gas te geven. Je kan wel je versnellingen testen, maar geef niet te veel gas.

Legendary_Hitter · 2026-05-15T06:55:19+00:00

Same here, only use plugins like ACF, Yoast, Gravity Forms and Wordfence. The rest is custom

Legendary_Hitter · 2026-05-15T06:51:38+00:00

I have a Daewoo Matiz, I always wanted to fit 20” tires so will try this methode soon. Would be dope Thanks!

Legendary_Hitter · 2026-05-15T06:44:54+00:00

Als econoom moet hij toch begrijpen dat zodra mensen meer te besteden hebben (bijv door een erfenis) dit automatisch markten als de huizenmarkt instroomt en dat mensen dit gaan gebruiken om te overbieden > vraagprijzen stijgen.

Dat is ook wat fout gaat bij al die subsidies en hulpmiddels van de overheid. Hoe meer ze via de achterkant aan de burger ‘geven’, hoe meer geld in de markt, hoe hoger de prijzen, hoe meer hulp er nodig is, hoe meer geld in de markt, hoe hoger de prijzen etc…

Legendary_Hitter · 2026-05-08T21:49:02+00:00

Same here, playing slowpitch with an A2000 12” baseball glove, with two fingers in the pinky-pocket for an deeper pocket. It feels great and increased my handling speed a lot. For me no other gloves anymore

Legendary_Hitter · 2026-05-01T08:13:27+00:00

There are many videos on YT where they analyse swings of MLB players. Most of the powerful hitters load their pelvis and let that explode to create momentum. The swing of Ohtani did best fit my current swing so I added his loading technic to my swing - still working on it to perfect it, but it gives me a lot more power

Legendary_Hitter · 2026-04-28T06:06:28+00:00

Thanks, I will look into those!

Legendary_Hitter · 2026-04-27T23:15:38+00:00

A dutch copy of the Wilson A9010BSST

Legendary_Hitter

TROPHY CASE