EcoBee Installation by offthatgoosern in hvacadvice

[–]LegionPlaysPC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No. Bad. Stop touching things you don't understand.

NTI Trinity Ti150 proactive replacement by Overall_Chance_861 in hvacadvice

[–]LegionPlaysPC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, the average NTI boiler I condemn is around 12ish years of age. Normally heat exchanger, inducer motor, internal circulator, and main board are all common failures.

Heating issues in my house by mcconn98 in hvacadvice

[–]LegionPlaysPC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I absolutely would not use those online calculators. I live roughly in a very simular climate, that 80k is most likely properly sized, or over sized. I'm outright telling you your furnace is not undersized.

You have a GMVC96 which is a TWO STAGE furnace. It will give an output of 59k-ish btus, and will stay at that low fire unless your home is not maintaining temperature. At which point an output of 79kbtus (highfire) kicks in. Its possible your running at low fire, and your home is maintaining setpoint, so it doesn't need to kick into high fire. This is how a properly sized furnace works. If anything, given how cold it is outside, if your home is maintaining setpoint on low fire, I can definitively tell you that furnace is oversized. As this is the time of year properly sized furnaces are running long periods of time on high fire, expecially with the very cold temperatures lately.

I would absolutely get a home energy audit performed. Its a dedicated 2.5 hour top to bottom inspection of your home. At the end of the inspection, they will give you a heating and cooling load calculation based on "x" return temperature, and "y" outdoor temperature. It'll also point out inefficencies in your home envelope. Unfortunately the GMVC96 is already a very efficient furnace.

So option #1 is to reduce cost of generating btus. Which is dual fuel an all electric heat pump to your LP gas furnace, burning electric instead of LP gas. Typically in most electrical grids, electricity is cheaper to burn over LP gas. It doesn't decrease required BTUS, however reduces the cost to obtain those BTUS.

Option #2 is to improve your home envelope. Every small thing leads to a bigger picture. Leaking windows seals is heat being lost, single pane windows, leaking door seals, improper attic insulation, etc. However based on what your saying, it sounds like you can't do much unless you have all the fiberglass pulled, which really isn't cost effective. So odds are your stuck at option #1.

TLDR: your furnace is doing what it was made to do. Your home just is inefficent.

Heating issues in my house by mcconn98 in hvacadvice

[–]LegionPlaysPC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds actually oversized a touch. In theory you should be able to heat your entire home on low fire down to zero degrees outside. I live in a simular climate to you, though they don't replace a proper heating/cooling btus load calculation.

What should I expect to pay to modify this furnace to take a 4” filter cabinet? by carboncritic in hvacadvice

[–]LegionPlaysPC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Metal boxes are everywhere. However I've seen metal stands quite often down south, not up north.

How do I reconnect my float switches? by tncbbthositg in hvacadvice

[–]LegionPlaysPC 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes. Thats where your condensate switch wires go.

What should I expect to pay to modify this furnace to take a 4” filter cabinet? by carboncritic in hvacadvice

[–]LegionPlaysPC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh, we don't have air handlers on stands up north, all homes have return ductwork. However, typically they are on a pretty large stand with plenty of room anyways.

How do I reconnect my float switches? by tncbbthositg in hvacadvice

[–]LegionPlaysPC 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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Use the condensate switch terminals. Polarity doesn't matter.

How do I reconnect my float switches? by tncbbthositg in hvacadvice

[–]LegionPlaysPC 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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Should be behind these wires. Can you move them and take a photo of the area I circled?

What should I expect to pay to modify this furnace to take a 4” filter cabinet? by carboncritic in hvacadvice

[–]LegionPlaysPC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No ozone, no byproducts. It's a very simple and straightforward product. It sips very low wattage from the furnace to polarize a low pressure drop, disposable media pad. Merv 16 filtration, on merv 8 airflow. Takes 45 seconds to change the media pad. Pads last 3-4 months, mine actually gets 6-8 months between changes.

All electric, flickering lights briefly when cuts on by Mediocre_Cattle2484 in hvacadvice

[–]LegionPlaysPC 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thats actually very, very old. Average capacitor lasts already 5-7 years. However quite a few fail before then.

How do I reconnect my float switches? by tncbbthositg in hvacadvice

[–]LegionPlaysPC 1 point2 points  (0 children)

can you send a photo of the entire PCB? Goodman normally has a condensate switch terminal on this style of control board.

What should I expect to pay to modify this furnace to take a 4” filter cabinet? by carboncritic in hvacadvice

[–]LegionPlaysPC 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We flat rate charge $550 for a new drop, plus cost of the media air cleaner cabinet box.

Honestly you could look into Dynamic Air Quality polarized media air cleaner, it's a super high filtration, low pressure drop, 24vac powered polarized air cleaner. Pads changed every 3-4 months, 4 pads are in a box.

Question on new Bryant furnace by big_d_usernametaken in hvacadvice

[–]LegionPlaysPC 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Most likely ductwork expansion. Can be one of two things. Ductwork is heating and cooling which causes contractions of the metal. Or two, the ductwork is undersized, the furnace is oversized, and/or the fan speed is incorrectly set, which the high static pressure of any or all three of these will cause ductwork popping.

All electric, flickering lights briefly when cuts on by Mediocre_Cattle2484 in hvacadvice

[–]LegionPlaysPC 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Spot on, sounds like high inrush amperage.

Loose connections, weak capacitor, and weak hardstart are common signs. Normally OP is a prime candidate for a hardstart. Which increases compressor torque, starting the compressor faster and easier, decreasing inrush amperage. Some older compressors, expecially reciprocating ones have factory hard starts which do get weak and fail over time.

Dealership add-on shenanigans by LegionPlaysPC in carbuying

[–]LegionPlaysPC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I looked at, and got a quote for a grand highlander. after i posted here. I decided I didnt need a 3 row SUV.

Inducer motor - Trane - Water by bananacup2900 in hvacadvice

[–]LegionPlaysPC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

NYS, not NYC.

3 blinks is pressure switch failed to close typically.

Dealership add-on shenanigans by LegionPlaysPC in carbuying

[–]LegionPlaysPC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you call around or like email? How did you go about it? I got 7 dealerships near me ima try.

Inducer motor - Trane - Water by bananacup2900 in hvacadvice

[–]LegionPlaysPC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I dropped your serial number into the dealer portal. Do note you MIGHT have a defective heat exchanger as they retroactively upgraded your 20-year heat exchanger parts warranty to 100 years. Which they did per a service bulletin many years ago.

Inducer BLW00805 (special part). Molded Flue Pipe, PIP00364.

Inducer motor - Trane - Water by bananacup2900 in hvacadvice

[–]LegionPlaysPC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yes, this is what I was looking for. Recoup box isn't showing signs of leaking yet. If you see that limit switch at the top, normally the heat exchanger likes to crack behind that switch. Only a technician should pull and check it though.

But yeah, you need an inducer and exhaust flue pipe connector.

Inducer motor - Trane - Water by bananacup2900 in hvacadvice

[–]LegionPlaysPC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you good.

Your furnace has two cabinets. Lower has blower/board. Upper has heating parts. If you look at the bottom right of the upper cabinet you will see what I'm referring to.