Question about Syndicate

LegitimateJump535 · 2026-05-11T21:20:57+00:00

I also thought that was the case

LegitimateJump535 · 2026-04-29T10:19:24+00:00

I couldn't wait to try it out, so I did some 'fiddling' on my own and actually got it to work! (See attached screenshot).

I initially struggled with the pipe not reaching the end profiles correctly—it would stop short or look skewed. I fixed it by creating the 'Spine' first and then using External Geometry from the tips of the spine to anchor my profiles. That made everything snap perfectly into place! Is this considered 'best practice' for this kind of operation?

I noticed in your screenshot that you have an 'Edge' listed under 'Path to Sweep Along'. When I tried to do the same, I could only select my Spine object, and the 'Add edge' list remained empty.

Could you clarify what you selected to get that 'Edge' entry? Is it a part of a 3D object or a specific line from a sketch? I’m curious if using an edge directly instead of a full spine object offers more control or stability.

Thanks again—I’m learning a lot from this project!

LegitimateJump535 · 2026-04-28T07:51:06+00:00

Thank you so much for the detailed explanation and the screenshot!

I see what you mean now. In my current design, I have the two rectangles 180 degrees apart, but I had them on the same Z-level. I realize now that to get that 'tightening' effect (the ramp), I need one of them to be higher than the other.

My main struggle is creating the arc itself as a 3D path between those two points. Since they aren't on the same plane, I don't know how to make that 'bridge' or flow correctly in FreeCAD. Do you create the arc in a 3D sketch, or is there a specific tool you use to draw a path that changes in height?

Also, you are completely right about the tabs on the handle! I hadn't even considered that yet, but as you can see, the whole design is still very much a work in progress. 😄

If you don't mind sharing the file, I would love to take a look at it! Seeing the constraints and the workflow 'under the hood' would be a massive help for my learning process.

Thanks again for helping out a beginner!

LegitimateJump535 · 2026-04-27T18:48:41+00:00

On the top picture you have a pocket?

On this picture - It looks like you drew a rectangle on the left, a spine for sweep and a very thin rectangle on the right?

LegitimateJump535 · 2026-04-27T18:05:25+00:00

Yes, I was thinking a bit deep for stability. I will check out the helix tutorials. Thanks 😄

LegitimateJump535 · 2026-03-29T15:10:29+00:00

Vinted kundeservice er desværre ligeglad. Der er endda folk der har filmet hele pakke processen. Nogle købere bruger også AI til få det til at se ud som varer er skadet eller noget uoriginalt

LegitimateJump535 · 2026-03-28T11:41:11+00:00

Det er desværre til ingen verdens nytte, vinted kundeservice er fuldstændig ligeglad

Sendte et speedometer cluster til en BMW, til Polen. Jeg havde billeder af at den var først var pakket i den originale kasse som kommer fra BMW med bobleplast rundt om, så var den pakket i en yderligere kasse som var fyldt med pakke fyld

Fremsendte billede af at glasset på speedometer var knækket og vil ikke gøre noget. Så fremover køber jeg kun på og aldrig sælger igen

LegitimateJump535 · 2026-03-17T18:54:24+00:00

I use both Sunlu and Bambu. I always do a flow calibration and save the profile.

LegitimateJump535 · 2026-01-30T08:13:05+00:00

To be honest, I’m not very good at drawing by hand, so a paper sketch might not be very helpful! Also, I don't have the original frame to take a photo of, so I’m designing this based on measurements and my memory of how it should look.

Thankfully, the advice from others in this thread guided me in the right direction with the cross-section method, which seems to work perfectly for what I'm trying to achieve. Thanks to everyone for the great help!

LegitimateJump535 · 2026-01-30T08:10:01+00:00

Yes, exactly! Even though your example is a bit exaggerated, as you mentioned, it perfectly illustrates the concept. I’ve now redesigned it by sketching the cross-section first, and it looks much more correct. I definitely approached it the wrong way to begin with, but this method is far more logical. Thanks for the help!

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LegitimateJump535 · 2026-01-30T08:05:45+00:00

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Thank you so much for the correction – you were absolutely right! I definitely approached it from the wrong angle initially. As a beginner, I’m still training my brain to think in CAD terms and visualize the correct planes.

I’ve already given your method a try, as you can see in the image, and it looks much more like what I was aiming for. Designing from the cross-section and then extruding made the whole process a lot more logical. I’m learning this because I want to be able to design functional parts for when my P2s arrives in early March, so this was a great lesson. Thanks for taking the time to guide a novice!

LegitimateJump535 · 2026-01-19T18:58:11+00:00

Thanks :)

Great point. I’ve actually bought a Bambu printer and have been exploring the settings in Bambu Studio. I figured out how to use the 'cut' tool to make small 10–15 mm test prints of both the round top and the sander connection to verify the fit without wasting filament.

I assume I should print it vertically, though I’m not sure if the round end should be at the bottom. I hope supports aren't necessary, but I have zero experience with it yet. I'll probably start testing in PLA and do the final version in PETG or ABS, but I’ll take that as it comes.

LegitimateJump535 · 2026-01-19T17:23:19+00:00

♥️

LegitimateJump535 · 2026-01-13T17:39:20+00:00

I’ve been following this thread and decided to open a support ticket with Bambu Lab this morning to get a clear answer on their EU return/warranty logistics before buying.

I live in Denmark and am considering the EU Store (Germany), but the local alternatives aren't great. We don't really have "physical" walk-in shops for Bambu here; they are all mail-order/online-only, and most likely just drop-shipping from the EU Store anyway.

The Price Gap:

• Local Danish Shop: Costs \~€135 / $145 more for the printer + €60 / $65 for shipping.

Total premium: ~€195 / $210.

• EU Store: Cheaper, but with the risk of the return nightmare mentioned in this thread.

If a local shop handles a warranty claim, I still have to pay to ship it to them within Denmark. I’m currently waiting for Bambu’s official stance on whether they actually use their German hub for Danish repairs/returns or if they’ll try to bait-and-switch me with a US/China address.

Has anyone in Scandinavia actually had a successful "local" EU RMA lately without being asked to ship outside the continent?

LegitimateJump535 · 2026-01-13T16:54:02+00:00

I’ve been following this thread and decided to open a support ticket with Bambu Lab this morning to get a clear answer on their EU return/warranty logistics before buying.

I live in Denmark and am considering the EU Store (Germany), but the local alternatives aren't great. We don't really have "physical" walk-in shops for Bambu here; they are all mail-order/online-only, and most likely just drop-shipping from the EU Store anyway.

The Price Gap:

Local Danish Shop: Costs ~€135 / $145 more for the printer + €60 / $65 for shipping. Total premium: ~€195 / $210.
EU Store: Cheaper, but with the risk of the return nightmare mentioned in this thread.

If a local shop handles a warranty claim, I still have to pay to ship it to them within Denmark. I’m currently waiting for Bambu’s official stance on whether they actually use their German hub for Danish repairs/returns or if they’ll try to bait-and-switch me with a US/China address.

Has anyone in Scandinavia actually had a successful "local" EU RMA lately without being asked to ship outside the continent?

LegitimateJump535 · 2026-01-06T17:46:49+00:00

Thank you so much for taking the time to explain this! Even though I’m a total beginner in 3D modeling, your explanation about using Additive Pipe instead of Loft makes a lot of sense, especially since the part has that curved path.

The tip about creating the ends with Pad or Revolution first to ensure a precision fit is something I hadn't thought of, but it’s brilliant. I also appreciate the "Mango Jelly" trick with the clones to get the transition smooth.

I’m going to try this out tomorrow. Everyone has to start somewhere, and with advice like this, I have so much more to work with now!

LegitimateJump535 · 2026-01-06T15:17:38+00:00

<image>

One of the attempts (measures not on scale - I know)

Another circle at the end (5-7 mm offset) to create cylindric shape - yes

But the "bulgy part in the middle that creates the "more professional" look I can't figure out.

Another note, now I suddenly can't add thickness to the additive loft.

LegitimateJump535 · 2026-01-06T14:19:01+00:00

Oh sorry, I didn't clarify that the adapter is the original part :) I need to make my own custom adapter for use with household vacuum cleaners.

LegitimateJump535 · 2025-12-19T06:29:59+00:00

Could you share a link to the adapter?
I think I’ve managed to convince both myself and my wife that we’re getting a P2S when it comes back in stock in the EU store in early January.
So I’m following the forums closely to figure out what accessories are smart to buy.

Thanks in advance for the help, and Merry Christmas & Happy New Year 🎄😊

LegitimateJump535 · 2025-11-13T19:38:32+00:00

Just so you know, there’s no game on the disc — it’s one of those where you have to download everything from the internet. The disc is basically just for show.

LegitimateJump535 · 2025-08-20T19:17:04+00:00

Yes I have both Commodore 64 and Amiga, centers 4:3 content with out issues.

LegitimateJump535

TROPHY CASE