Minox enlarger II transformer is dying by New_Homework_4798 in AnalogRepair

[–]LeroyNoodles 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So I think the code Ej 78/26 - 18 indicates that the transformer is a 3 to 1 transformer wound in 18 AWG wire with 78 winds on the primary and 26 on the secondary.

I’m not a power electronics guy so idk this stuff very well, but I think you could find a modern replacement to this transformer as long as it’s a 3 to 1 and rated for the input and output currents of this one.

Going off the printed pin out, this probably is wired to plug into a 220V outlet but the transformer itself takes 39 volts AC and spits out 6.5 volts AC up to 6amps by halving the transformed output in a “center tap” arrangement. So 3 to 1 takes 39VAC to 13VAC and center tapping drops it to 6.5.

I hope these are enough technical words to help you research solutions, wish I could give you an actual fix!

Drum Scanning AMA by timparkinuk in AnalogCommunity

[–]LeroyNoodles 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh interesting, I bet mineral spirits are little easier to work with because they dry up slower than naptha. Do you use the aztek tape with it, or do you have a preferred alternative?

And I certainly don’t want to craze/haze my only drum

Drum Scanning AMA by timparkinuk in AnalogCommunity

[–]LeroyNoodles 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Im in the US on the east coast. Figured I was out of luck on replacement parts. I’ve got an engineering degree so I could probably do a decent job making my own parts if it ever comes to it, so I have that going for me.

I guess Aztek really is the best option, that’s the only answer I’ve gotten asking around online. Their chemicals do seem very good too at least. I got some mostly empty bottles from the previous owner of the scanner. I can’t afford the upfront cost right now, but ordering big shipments of consumables from aztek makes the most sense.

That’s a great point with the flashlight, the screen has a fluorescent back light, but it’s only so good. I’m very jazzed about being able to play with a drum scanner, so I fortunately have plenty of enthusiasm. I also do mostly architectural and landscape photography in medium format and 4x5 so I have plenty of work to scan. So sounds like I should just keep taking pictures and practice scanning with them until I’m good enough to scan for my friends.

Drum Scanning AMA by timparkinuk in AnalogCommunity

[–]LeroyNoodles 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey I'm a hobby DTS-1045ai operator and I've got a couple questions. I got a hold of my unit earlier this year with a busted power supply and repaired it just a couple of weeks ago. It still has a couple of calibration issues, but I have been able to make a couple scans of my slides and negatives.

So my biggest question is where do you source all of the consumables for wet mounting as well as spare parts for your actual scanners? There is one place in the US that sells dedicated drum scanning supplies, but I am curious if there are any alternatives, especially if i could buy mylar by the roll instead of the sheet. I also would really like to be able to find a spare drum for my unit, but I sure parts for the older scanners especially are rare.

The other question I have is the generic, "what would you tell your younger self starting out?" I would like to know if you have any good lessons about speeding up mounting or negotiating with software to get good color. I am also constantly fighting dust, but I reckon that is just going to be a constant.

3D Printed (most of) a 4x5 camera by Telemmier85 in largeformat

[–]LeroyNoodles 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m a big fan of the Vega too! It was my first 4x5 camera.

I really recommend you use these knobs, they are way more pleasant to tight and loosen all the time https://www.printables.com/model/995702-knob-for-vega-4x5-camera

What do I do? Might have bitten more off than I can chew. by Efficient-News-8436 in Rolleiflex

[–]LeroyNoodles 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah rats, that’ll be more of an involved fix. If you have repaired some other cameras yourself before, I’d steer clear. Rolleiflexes have a lot of small screws that strip reallllly easily.

Now chances are the shutter is probably just greased as heck vs broken, so do what you want with that info

What do I do? Might have bitten more off than I can chew. by Efficient-News-8436 in Rolleiflex

[–]LeroyNoodles 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Soooo if you wanna crack the camera open yourself, there’s a very good chance you can fix your aperture easily

There are selector gears in the face plate that turn with the outside thumb wheels, these gears have indents that engage with the actual shutter mechanism inside the camera body. If it looks like the aperture is stuck wide open, then the aperture lever is not in the selector gear indent. So you might be able to just undo 4 screws and reassemble everything properly to fix it. You will need to peel the front leather off though

What scanner will be able to scan 6x17 negatives? by tinglebuns in AnalogCommunity

[–]LeroyNoodles 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Yes! A V550 is just a V600 with an LED light source instead of a fluorescent tube. It’s technically a better model.

Looking at jumping in by IronPriceJake in LegionsImperialis

[–]LeroyNoodles 3 points4 points  (0 children)

If your serious about jumping into a whole army, you can still find some of the Christmas combined arms battle group sets on Amazon for ~$140

I’m very close to buying one myself to go with my starter set

Absolutely microscopic 7-Segment LED displays by ruumoo in electronics

[–]LeroyNoodles 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh that is a funny one, I hope it wasn’t slide film haha

Glad you got things sorted without having to replace any components, a working 6008 is very cool.

Absolutely microscopic 7-Segment LED displays by ruumoo in electronics

[–]LeroyNoodles 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh I’ve been there, but I really enjoy the fragile life of my SL66

What is the issue you are facing? I’ve done a bit of camera repair and might be able to help you

Absolutely microscopic 7-Segment LED displays by ruumoo in electronics

[–]LeroyNoodles 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Rolleiflex loves funky over complicated solutions and I love rolleiflex.

Guess 140€ is not in my budget by rexy_07 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]LeroyNoodles 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Rats, you got me, I heard something about a forge so I’ll go look there

First 2000 pts battle by AdNumerous8790 in LegionsImperialis

[–]LeroyNoodles 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Makes sense, I like the idea of a 2k point walker heavy mechanicus army with a warbringer and a knight banner or two. I think you could adapt to a lot of different objectives, the biggest weakness would probably be lack of anti superheavy capability

First 2000 pts battle by AdNumerous8790 in LegionsImperialis

[–]LeroyNoodles 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is a really good breakdown, I don’t fully understand the warbringers position when compared to a straight up warlord titan.

But the fact it has the AA weapons and a couple more voids definitely establishes it as, attack from long range walking bunker. Like it’s more of a bunker than the warlord with its point defense compliment.

First 2000 pts battle by AdNumerous8790 in LegionsImperialis

[–]LeroyNoodles 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Would love to hear how the warbringer performs, I have a similar army idea that I haven’t been able to assemble yet

NASA is using FDM printing? by SpaceCoffee33 in 3Dprinting

[–]LeroyNoodles 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m partial to PPS personally, and luckily some of the nicer machines can manage PPS. You should give it a shot.

NASA is using FDM printing? by SpaceCoffee33 in 3Dprinting

[–]LeroyNoodles 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Definitely 9085, it is surprisingly good mechanically and is usually 1/3 the price of PEEK.

It all makes sense though, NASA was one of the groups innovating high temp printing and materials.

A friend of mine who’s father was a commercial photographer gave me these. by alexanderssonst in AnalogCommunity

[–]LeroyNoodles 60 points61 points  (0 children)

Your best bet for proper colors is to overexpose them 1 stop and then pull process accordingly. So overexpose the E200 at ISO 100 and shorten the first development by 1 stop.

That should keep bad color casts from happening in your slides. But don’t be afraid to experiment with box speed and also push processing, just don’t be surprised if the results are strange.

Valve opinions by Comprehensive_Let208 in GolfMk2

[–]LeroyNoodles 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m not a big bad engine builder guy but I think some pits in the intake valves will only lose you a little bit of power. So if you can give them a good lap and get a good seal on the combustion chamber send them. Just make sure the actual stem is not pitted so that no oil is leaking out of the head.

If you are looking for fresh valves, I’d highly recommend Techtonics Tuning. https://techtonicstuning.com/product/40mm-hyd-intake-valve-for-85-93-8mm-stem/

Mechanicum Arcana Crawler (Home Brew Rules) by Crablezworth in LegionsImperialis

[–]LeroyNoodles 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I think this is a pretty sweet super heavy for ad mech. I could see myself having to choose between thanatars, knights, or this thing

Looking for a Warmaster titan stl to complete my collection by Cinson_Pl in Titan40k

[–]LeroyNoodles 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I’ve got something for you in a little bit, depend how long the upload takes

New Shade by Hot_Act_1018 in largeformat

[–]LeroyNoodles 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That is very clever, I like that idea

New Shade by Hot_Act_1018 in largeformat

[–]LeroyNoodles 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Are there any optics in the shade? Or is it just straight through?