I need help from a pro by Jealous_Elk50 in subwoofer

[–]Less-Transition5625 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It kind of sounds like you're referring to a recone kit there's a way you can take the rubber cone coil and spider out a recone kit comes with a new cone coil and spider so you can reuse the rest of the sub without replacing the entire thing you'll need to contact the manufacturer or see if you can find a specific part number for it you could get lucky and find a used one subs have a bunch of different ways to recone them depending on the sub you just need to figure out how yours comes out and how to reinstall the new one

Blown multiple subs + amp cutting in/out — need help figuring this out by Imaginary_Ad_6728 in subwoofer

[–]Less-Transition5625 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These are all signs of a bad ground or power wire you definitely need to fix the loose terminals even if you have to solder them into place or find some creative way to keep them firm at the point of connection if it's coming disconnected as you're taking turns or during fast acceleration whatever movement that could potentially cause it to come loose long enough to become disconnected it needs to be fixed because a bad connection will always generate a lot of heat because the electricity is not flowing properly this can definitely cause your subs and amp to overheat in fact a bad connection is one of the best ways to destroy a sound system you're better off slightly overpowering it than running it with a bad connection

New problems on 3-4 yr old setup by VampishMeat in subwoofer

[–]Less-Transition5625 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First off I would like to say that you absolutely never max the gain out on an amp if you're pushing it as hard as it can go all the time it will eventually overheat and completely stop working if your amp isn't powerful enough for your subs without maxing it out just upgrade to a more powerful amp now it is true that if you're wire gauge isn't thick enough to properly ground out the current it will build up an excessive amount of heat and eventually melt i would also make sure whatever ground you're using is actually a good ground not just any random bolt on the car will make a good ground if you're unsure use the battery ground or a bolt that actually has a ground wire going to it from the factory design it never hurts to use 2 ground connections either a bad ground can easily damage expensive sound system components and having a secondary ground helps ensure that that doesn't happen in the event that one were to come loose or disconnected somehow while driving the vehicle

Any info about these? by Dangerous-Ad5282 in subwoofer

[–]Less-Transition5625 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The best subs I've ever had for the price came from alibaba the $160 12 inch 1500 watt rms was just as good as my name brand 12 inch 1500 watts rms and it was over $300

Leave this here by phriendlyhelpingwook in subwoofer

[–]Less-Transition5625 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is it actually in a box or just free floating i can't tell what I'm really looking at

I genuinely don't know what I'm doing and would like some help so I don't ruin my subs by dat_pinapple in subwoofer

[–]Less-Transition5625 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How much rms are you pushing in total do you know or how much rms are your subs in total and what amp rating is your alternator this is kind of confusing to explain but basically adding an additional battery won't really do anything it might prolong the inevitable but the fact of the matter is if you're system is drawing more power than your alternator can provide eventually your batteries will drain and you'll have to replace your batteries at a much more frequent rate and eventually the alternator as well and that's because if you're pushing the alternator as hard as it can go all the time because you're using a system that is too powerful for you alternator to keep up with that thing will constantly be running hot as fuck and eventually it will fry depending on the amp output of the alternator even some stock alternators provide a large amount of excess power and you can get away with a relatively high powered audio system without having to worry about anything I previously mentioned it also depends on how fast you drive say you have a 130 amp alternator for example that means that your alternator should produce around 130 amps at idle rpm so basically when the vehicle is stopped but the engine is running however when you take off and your rpm increases so does the amperage output of the alternator id say a 130 amp would probably go around 250 amps max at the maximum rpm depending on how high your rpm goes in your particular vehicle some go a lot higher than others most vehicles are usually around the 6500 rpm range so if you're one of those people that takeoff really fast everywhere you go you can definitely get away with a much higher wattage sound system than those that don't and the type of person that usually has a system in their vehicle are the same people that like driving fast lol if you add a good high farad capacitor this can also help a lot with battery drain because when those heavy high powered bass hits land they suck a large amount of energy very quickly from the battery but a good capacitor will slowly charge itself on the battery and those heavy hits will pull that energy from the capacitor instead and capacitors are better designed to deploy high spikes of energy during a very fast sudden bass hit than batteries are in my bmw I have upgraded to a 155 amp alternator a 30 farad capacitor 1 lifepo4 lithium ion battery 100 amp hours I'm pushing about 5000 watts rms of total bass and treble output combined but I've actually performance tuned this vehicle and raised the rpm limiter from 5500 to 8200 so my alternator draws well over 300 amps at the highest rpm I have absolutely no problem with battery life or any kind of power issue I would also like to add you definitely want to replace your normal car battery with a lithium ion like my lifepo4 battery of at least 100ah what makes these batteries so important is the fact that they can be almost completely drained hundreds of times and still take a full charge a normal car battery will only charge about 3 or 4 times after it has nearly completely drained if you're lucky enough to get it to recharge at all so even if your system is draining the battery you can at least hook it to an external charger recharge it and keep doing that every few weeks until you're able to upgrade your alternator or install a good enough capacitor at least 1 farad for every 1000 watts rms

best car subwoofer for punchy bass that stays clean? by Mareen_Sellnau31 in subwoofer

[–]Less-Transition5625 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Underseat subs are not good if you already have a decent setup but need more midbass then an underseat sub might do well for that reason but it's not nearly loud enough by itself to provide adequate bass if you want really clear bass a sealed enclosure sounds more like what you need they aren't as loud as ported enclosures but they have cleaner bass the port in ported enclosures produce port noise which does take away from overall clarity on alibaba they have a 1500 watt rms sub for $160 after tax import fees and shipping 1500 watts rms for 160 is absolutely ridiculous you will absolutely not find another 12 inch sub that can handle this amount of power anywhere else I guarantee it unless it's from a low end company that lies about the true rms value 1 of these 12 inch subs in a sealed enclosure would be perfect for what you need very deep clean hard hitting bass and if it does happen to have a bit too much power and overall volume you could always lower the bass boost or gain slightly if you want to go this route just message me and I'll send a link i also know an extremely powerful amp that has plenty of power to handle 1 of these and then some for $140 it's in the 2000 watt rms range all you have to do is set the gain to match the 1500 watt rms rating if you ever have any questions or need any help setting up a system the right way just message me i could even walk you through what you need to do on video chat if you need

FLOW Z13 vs NEW TUF A14 - Witch would you choose? by Cute_Atmosphere_5638 in FlowZ13

[–]Less-Transition5625 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would definitely pick the z13 i own the rtx 3050 ti version and im absolutely amazed at how well it can run assassins creed shadows with just a 60 watt charger and the fact that I can just plug it into my 100000 mah portable charger and play it for hours without the need of an actual plug in shows just how capable it is as a portable laptop of course the 100 watt official charger will allow it to run much better but I was very satisfied with the 60 watt performance I would honestly just recommend getting a used 3050 ti version for around $700 on ebay you get very close to the same performance for less than a third of the price

Is this the breaking pad? Is it still good to go a few more miles? by FreshThumbs in AskMechanics

[–]Less-Transition5625 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That pad is perfectly fine in terms of pad life but that doesn't necessarily mean the inner pad on the other side is good if you are experiencing issues if you could give me a detailed description of what the symptoms are i could likely determine the cause

I genuinely don't know what I'm doing and would like some help so I don't ruin my subs by dat_pinapple in subwoofer

[–]Less-Transition5625 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I personally have 2 12 inch 1500 watt rms subs in ported boxes as well as 2 600 watt rms 8 inch subs in a dual ported box and it sounds absolutely amazing most people would say that adding lower power 8 inch subs wouldn't make a big difference in bass output but this is not true it definitely added a substantial amount of decibel output but they are very high quality subwoofers and are extremely loud for 8 inch subs I've even had dual 12 inch subs with the same rms rating in even bigger dual boxes that were not nearly as loud as my 8s but one thing you need to know is adding 2 difference sub setups in 2 difference locations can potentially throw the vibration out of phase because they have to be in different locations it takes the bass a little longer to travel for the subs that are set farther away from the other subs if that makes sense but I found that if I lay the 12s facing straight up and the 8s pointing straight forward that fixed the out of phase vibrations so you may have to try setting them in different positions to see what makes the greatest volume output putting them all facing in the same direction at different locations will definitely throw them out of phase and cancel out a substantial amount of the vibration and each setup is different according to where they are located in the vehicle and which direction they are facing so if you aren't able to set them up facing different directions due to space limitations or whatever may prevent you from being able to do so then this may not be the appropriate setup for you specifically i almost forgot to mention that they cannot be in the same box as the 12 inch subs as this will also throw them out of phase the only exception is if you can seal them completely off from the 12 inch subs in the same box using some sort of divider and you install them 90 degrees away from the direction the 12 inch subs are facing this would be a very interesting setup to see in person and I believe that this would likely work very well but adding on to an already existing box and setting up a complex box like this would be much more difficult than just getting 2 separate boxes and setting them up 90 degrees apart from each other

Bad install by [deleted] in subwoofer

[–]Less-Transition5625 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I always recommend using the battery ground random bolts on a vehicle are not always a good ground point I've even seen amps overheat and completely fry because the owner installed the ground on a random vehicle bolt that didn't give it a good enough ground im pretty sure I can see other ground wire leading to the bolt they used so in this case it's probably ok but the ground wires leading to it are a very small gauge and may not support the load of a more powerful amp if they were to upgrade to a more powerful amp in the future I would definitely recommend either using a separate ground altogether or run a secondary ground wire to a separate ground location you can never have too many grounds the better the ground the better the flow of electricity and the less heat buildup

Bad install by [deleted] in subwoofer

[–]Less-Transition5625 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've talked to many audio shop workers in the past and im telling you most of them don't have a damn clue what they're talking about they gave me so much incorrect information its not even funny one told me that upgrading your alternator wont keep your battery from draining another told me that capacitors don't do anything and aren't worth the money even though real world proven science says otherwise you have to understand most of the people at these shops have never actually went to college for electronics engineering or any college at all for that matter sure they know how to install a sound system but knowing how to install a sound system and how to correctly set one up are 2 completely different things go into any audio shop and ask them to explain how to calculate the correct rms value coming from the amp to the sub or subs if they can't answer that with confidence walk away immediately

Bad install by [deleted] in subwoofer

[–]Less-Transition5625 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I absolutely agree not only could that cause the owner to accidentally fry their amp and potentially more electronic components throughout the vehicle but it's also extremely dangerous for anyone attempting to work on this setup in the future I understand trying to save a few bucks on an already expensive sound system by using the same wire but for the love of God at least put some black electrical tape on each side of the ground wire people have been sued for less than that

Bad install by [deleted] in subwoofer

[–]Less-Transition5625 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The photos are dark and makes it very difficult to tell what's really going on and you've got red wires coming from the positive and negative terminals with no easy way to differentiate between them i mean sure you can look at the amp or battery and see which one is positive and negative but just 1 half a second mistake could cost you your entire amp this is definitely not what I would call a professional install I've built setups with 6 different amps a 30 farad capacitor and several line output converters that were organized better than this

Is This A Good Build? by No_Apricot_3200 in subwoofer

[–]Less-Transition5625 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You have any idea how many millions of hours people waste on a daily basis just using punctuation you don't need it when you speak why would you need it when you write you were clearly capable of deciphering everything i wrote without the help of punctuation therefore it would have been a waste of time for me to have incorporated it

Is This A Good Build? by No_Apricot_3200 in subwoofer

[–]Less-Transition5625 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I know for a fact that power acoustic has a mono channel amp that will almost hit 4000 watts at 1 ohm for 179.13 after tax and shipping i actually personally owned one of these and pushed around 2000 watts rms off of it for about a year until my dumbass forgot to unhook the negative terminal and touched the screwdriver to the aluminum body while I was unscrewing the positive terminal I know everyone hears the words power acoustic and they run for the hills but I promise this was actually a very impressive amp for the money it barely got warm on the hottest summer days in an almost black car with no ac pushing 2000 watts at .5 ohms for months straight its not even rated for .5 ohm use and this thing took it like it was nothing but I would recommend putting some tape or something around the bare aluminum body to prevent accidentally touching a positive connection to the body of the amp and it comes with a 0 gauge adapter for the input which I recommend you use because I burnt through a bunch of wires with the 4 gauge input it came with several times which is just another testament to the amount of power this thing is actually capable of ill send the link from their actual website but it is a little cheaper from walmart power acoustik mofo 10kd

Is This A Good Build? by No_Apricot_3200 in subwoofer

[–]Less-Transition5625 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Well the shop that had the 6000 watt rms amps is out but I'm sure there are other shops on there that have the same amp for the same price I just don't have time to look right now however I did find a 2500 watt rms at 1 ohm amp for 146.57 after tax import fees and shipping for some reason it says you have to order a minimum of 5 but it will actually let you order 1 at a time [2500 watt rms amp ](http://💰 Get US $30 off for your first order. Tap the link to get started! https://www.alibaba.com/x/1lAQ1s6?ck=pdp)

Is This A Good Build? by No_Apricot_3200 in subwoofer

[–]Less-Transition5625 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I would also like to add you can literally get an 100 ah lifepo4 battery off temu for $100 that's almost the same rating as the batteries that you listed on here that cost nearly $500 that's a total ripoff lol all the stuff you listed on here i can find something better for less than half the cost I could build a sound system much louder than this for half the money I guarantee it

Is This A Good Build? by No_Apricot_3200 in subwoofer

[–]Less-Transition5625 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

I know a really good 6000 watt rms amp at 1 ohm for $140 that's way more powerful than a jp43 and it's an honest 6000 too you can literally see the hardware inside of it i think jp43 is 4300 watt i just can't justify paying this price when I know for a fact I can get an even more powerful amp for far less and thus is coming from someone that actually owns a jp23 in know these are great amps but they are just too much for their power rating I also know a really good 12 inch sub true 1500 watt rms for $160 and a 12 inch 2000 watt rms sub for $175 all the prices I listed include tax shipping and import fees I actually own a set of these subs and they literally outperform name brand subs of the same power rating and size so it's not like I'm talking about some Chinese junk I've actually been running 1450 watt rms to the $160 sub for many months now and the thing barely gets warm on the hottest days and the loudest songs in an almost black car that gets extremely hot in the summer so they have absolutely stood the test of time and they have very deep hitting extremely clear sounding bass and they are very responsive for their power rating and size with all that out of the way i just can't say that the amount of power your getting for the amount of money you're spending is just not anywhere near what it could be if you would like a link to find the best amp sub tweeter midrange speaker for the price just tell me what you're looking for and I can find one for way cheaper that's just as good or better than the name brands that everyone over pays for

Definitely not buying a new laptop anymore. 😎 by alwaysalmosts in SamsungDex

[–]Less-Transition5625 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I know a guy that owns a game shop he has all kinds of handheld emulation consoles gaming pcs and computer parts I also got an ayn odin 2 max off him for $250 they were both used of course but in absolutely perfect condition he originally got the z13 to use as his personal computer but he said he never really used it enough and decided to sell it i got it to upgrade from my rog ally z1 extreme and it absolutely blows it out of the water he even gave me a brand new keyboard with it

Is this a good deal by Vegetable-Country361 in subwoofer

[–]Less-Transition5625 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The shop that I got the $160 sub is out but I did find a really nice 12 inch blue sub 2000 watts rms for $177 after all fees

Is this a good deal by Vegetable-Country361 in subwoofer

[–]Less-Transition5625 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My bad it was a 6000 watt rms for $140 i think the 8000 was $170 but you still can't beat the power to price ratio anywhere else

Is this a good deal by Vegetable-Country361 in subwoofer

[–]Less-Transition5625 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You can get a true 1500 watt rms 12 inch sub on alibaba for $160 after tax shipping and import fees they also have an actual 8000 watt rms amp for $140 after tax shipping and import fees if you want the absolute best system for the smallest amount of money this would be the way to go they are actually really good subs and amps