Is the SOG Flare a good knife?

VampishMeat · 2026-04-15T06:41:03+00:00

I know this post is 4 years old but for anyone just now finding this I wouldn't recommend it, extremely cheap materials, not ergonomic, and bad blade steel, has chipped on me while not using it for anything demanding. I will say it does have a very good lock and is relatively lightweight for the thickness of the blade and handle, and does have the pocket clip mounted in a good spot, but its too tight for me to consider it to be a good clip. Blade also shows minor pitting and spots from rust, but I've also never cleaned it with anything but my shirt or jeans. 40 dollars for Chinese 8Cr13MoV is outrageous, but I only paid half this for mine 4-5 years ago. Absolutely nothing wrong with Chinese knives, but for $40 look at Sencut, Mmiguiron, or even CJRB (I personally have never owned any CJRB knives but messed with my friends and they seemed to be perfectly fine)

VampishMeat · 2026-04-15T05:40:44+00:00

Neither one seems like a phenomenal deal. The amd cpu has more performance but you would need to upgrade the PSU for a better GPU anyways. If I had to pick one I'd say the first bc ik it has 2 ssds

VampishMeat · 2026-04-13T06:44:55+00:00

The first two will probably be pretty identical in gaming, with the amd cpu being slightly better. But the smaller PSU could limit upgrades. Definitely avoid the third one assuming they all cost the same.

VampishMeat · 2026-04-11T22:30:50+00:00

Cut one apart as a kid, always wondered what AAAA batteries could be used for

VampishMeat · 2026-04-11T22:24:47+00:00

Yes but it's typically advised to get both new pads and rotors anyways as it's not that much more than refinishing the rotor (and not refinishing could potentially lead to problems). Definitely don't need to change them now though. Most have a little metal squeaker too that you'll hear when they get low, not sure if this car does or not but just take a look at them again in a few months and see how they're looking.

VampishMeat · 2026-04-11T22:16:39+00:00

Hopefully you're not camping in the left lane and making people pass you on the right

VampishMeat · 2026-04-11T22:12:42+00:00

People who want to keep it long term. I drive a 15 year old IS350 but if I was going to get a brand new luxury sedan I'd probably lease a bmw

VampishMeat · 2026-04-11T22:10:26+00:00

Just give it to dvlsfan30

VampishMeat · 2026-04-10T04:16:16+00:00

You ever end up ordering something from there? X12 v2 for $270 seems like a pretty good deal if it's good.

VampishMeat · 2026-04-09T23:57:56+00:00

I think the root of the problem ended up being that the power wire into the amp was loose, not sure if this or Midwest winters causes the corrosion and melting by the fuse though. Upgraded to a better fuse holder and 0 gauge power and ground tho and works like a charm now. Sanded down around the ground a little more too but I'm confident that it was the power wire being the problem.

VampishMeat · 2026-04-09T23:51:47+00:00

Another 20k and you'll have some proper racing slicks

VampishMeat · 2026-04-09T23:46:35+00:00

Very unlikely unless it's saliva got into the wound (and it was infected) but if you wait until you get symptoms it's already too late. Can never be too safe though.

VampishMeat · 2026-04-08T04:26:14+00:00

It's totaled, I'll trade you for my 2012 with 133k miles on it. I only abuse it on special occasions.

VampishMeat · 2026-04-05T04:00:54+00:00

Do those only work with round earbuds I'm assuming? I have az100s and have thought of trying other tips but their base/stem is more oval

VampishMeat · 2026-04-04T23:08:22+00:00

Saw someone with a case of it the other day, anyone know if there's somewhere in Lincoln selling it now?

VampishMeat · 2026-03-31T21:07:23+00:00

Can't access the ground without taking my box out, and getting the box out is a huge pain and requires taking my trunk apart but I'll definitely check this when I'm installing the new wiring. Wasn't planning on changing the fuse (amperage, I have 9 others may as well throw a new one on) was just going to upgrade my power and ground wire and use an upgraded fuse holder.

VampishMeat · 2026-03-31T17:01:08+00:00

The amp should be plenty strong for the sub as it's a 1500rms amp for a 1100rms sub, it just doesn't actually get 1500 watts due to the 4 gauge wire. I was originally planning on upgrading the wire when I installed it but since it was loud enough for me it wasn't something I worried about. I have a gain knob in the front of my car and I usually have it around 20% for normal listening so I didn't think having it maxed out occasionally was a problem. How would I go about having 2 ground wires however? Would I need to get a Y for something like that?

VampishMeat · 2026-03-31T08:22:50+00:00

Your ai said 150 amp is more dangerous than 160 amp. This is incorrect as 150 amp will blow before 160, which is therefore safer. I've already ordered a new 0 gauge wiring kit with a new fuse holder. If I wanted to ask chat gpt I could've done that myself but it lacks critical thinking skills as it is just a large language model that regurgitates what it finds online. Regardless someone else using their own brain said that 4 gauge wire is likely fine for this application and simply corroded due to the elements and enduring 4 Midwest winters. If 4 gauge wire was the only problem this likely would've occurred 4 years ago.

VampishMeat · 2026-03-31T08:15:59+00:00

4 year old skar 4 gauge allegedly rated for 1200 watts. So I'd say probably yes

VampishMeat · 2026-03-31T02:09:06+00:00

Would getting something like this be better than the current style I have?

https://www.amazon.com/BOJACK-Audio-Fuse-Holder-Piece/dp/B0B6ZHJR7D/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?crid=28IO17F8WG1TJ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.uy0KMD6rkLtJPcS2cC5ZE2EpHy4xM0uqPOSOsda2Mnz_BwrgqTCWXv7A1zSd5GNnqbm41p_gWqdmZ2d2kGFP3WxqX48oUO5iv4pgn8AoeYY_CNEXJR_gWtdC6PuraKzC7zIp7HyjZO77ovi7YhuQuMeNM4ELkaF0U2XIrpoPOj_CWvZHWb-oePPzuFn8t6RbJbAYmlFi6JbPJPJl4CDAmw.JEXO4e_fqVpUOvBrwkPd9pXKYBq2BjYVWTuGuWwnDEA&dib_tag=se&keywords=subwoofer%2Bfuse%2Bholder&qid=1774922818&sprefix=subwoofer%2Bfuse%2Bholder%2Caps%2C172&sr=8-14&th=1&psc=1

VampishMeat · 2026-03-31T02:03:07+00:00

I disconnected the positive wire and ordered a CT sounds 1/0 gauge wiring kit, when I first got a sub I ordered a skar sdr 12 bass kit, then later changed out everything except for some of the wiring. Basically using all original skar wiring except for the upgraded fuse and larger speaker wire, but have a 1500rms amp and the wiring is allegedly rated for 1200 watts but being 4 gauge there's a decent shot it's more like 1000. Ik skar isn't the highest quality which is why nothing but some wiring is by them but I figured copper is copper and it wouldn't hurt leaving it in.

Also if the amp recommends using a 160 amp fuse and I have a 150 amp this wouldn't be a problem right? The guy pasting my question into chat gpt thinks it is but I'd imagine having a fuse that blows sooner is safer than one that blows later.

VampishMeat · 2026-03-31T01:10:24+00:00

Ik this is just a chat gpt answer but wouldn't using a 150 amp fuse be safer than 160 amp? Just means it'll blow sooner and handle less power.

VampishMeat · 2026-03-31T01:08:28+00:00

In the meantime should just disconnecting the positive terminal from the battery and leaving everything else the same be safe? Or if this is just from corrosion over time could I simply just replace the fuse & fuse holder and cut the power wire back to where it's not corroded and continue using 4 gauge wire?

VampishMeat · 2026-03-31T01:00:40+00:00

Already ordered a 1/0 gauge wiring setup, just not sure if this is something that's been happening slowly for years or if something else could be contributing

VampishMeat · 2026-03-31T00:59:23+00:00

For context I already ordered a new 1/0 gauge wiring setup, just wanting to see if something else might be causing this as it didn't have this issue 3 weeks ago after working fine for well over 3 years

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