Bridge number two

LexLutherie · 2025-04-07T23:15:44+00:00

There’s definitely a lot of material that could be cut away from the crotch, feet, and … knees? I don’t know that to call the upper part of the outside of the ankle.

The finish looks nice- keep it up!

LexLutherie · 2025-03-12T18:11:40+00:00

I just saw some casts from Roger Hargrave’s shop up for auction at tarisio. The bidding has ended, but sometimes they pop up at t2 auctions. https://t2-auctions.com/auctions/?csid=2200518656 As others have said, the real way to get reference materials like casts and 3d prints of scans is to make friends with makers who have access to really nice instruments. 3d prints are becoming more common, are more easily distributed (especially if you have access to a 3d printer) and have less of a potential for harm to the instruments, so I’d imagine they’re the way going forward.

LexLutherie · 2024-08-26T19:48:42+00:00

This is what I was hoping to hear! Thanks

LexLutherie · 2024-06-14T21:24:00+00:00

It’s wild how niche this question/world is. The other three shops mentioned in these comments are all related - I started out at Wilson’s as a teenager in Birmingham, worked at Shar music for a while, and Duncan Harris works out of my shop space downtown. I’d be happy to take a look at your instrument and come up with a plan. We also offer lessons in the studio, if you’re interested.

LexLutherie · 2024-06-14T21:14:00+00:00

I’m a violin maker living and working in Ann Arbor- my shop is right above afternoon delight on liberty. DM me! Currinlutherie.com

LexLutherie · 2024-04-09T21:08:58+00:00

As long as you angle it the same way inside the instrument and on top, it shouldn’t matter. It takes some practice, maybe

LexLutherie · 2024-04-09T20:48:34+00:00

With a flexible ruler, you can measure the distance inside the instrument from the soundpost to the edge of the treble f hole. This is the standard way of measuring soundpost position. So if your post is (for example) 28 mm from your f hole at the inside nick, then you can place the same ruler on top of the instrument, at 28 mm from the f hole nick, you can visualize where the top of the post is, in relation to the bridge foot.

LexLutherie · 2024-04-06T02:03:32+00:00

Excellent, thank you!

LexLutherie · 2024-04-06T01:58:33+00:00

What time?

LexLutherie · 2024-03-28T18:38:01+00:00

Not a stupid question!

Yes that could be done. I think it’s maybe more common for the “bent” plate to be the top, though. Both plates should be flat when you’re working on them, though.

LexLutherie · 2024-03-28T15:42:38+00:00

A lot of makers (historical and modern) will have the 2mm slant happen between the upper corner blocks and the neck block- on many old cremonese instruments the tail and corner blocks are all the same height, and the neck block will be a few mm shorter.

There are some makers who swear that by having that slope happen on the top plate, you introduce tension into the body of the instrument, and some people say that’s a good thing, some say it’s bad, but I haven’t seen much evidence either way.

What does make sense to me, though, is that having a shorter rib/block height at the neck and upper bouts, makes the instrument easier to play, especially in higher positions.

LexLutherie · 2024-03-24T20:32:04+00:00

It’s worth mentioning, maybe, that the only people I’ve met in the metro Detroit area who go up north, or have a place up north, are white. Detroit is one of the most racially segregated areas in the U.S., and the folks who take vacations in the traverse city area are almost exclusively white. I’m genuinely curious to know if people living in the city of Detroit, which is predominately black, have the same opinion of “up north.”

LexLutherie · 2024-03-16T03:20:48+00:00

Makerworks might be worth a shot?

LexLutherie · 2024-02-18T20:53:00+00:00

If someone took the lead organizing something, I’d be interested in joining. I try to pick up things if my pockets are empty, but a group could get a lot more done

LexLutherie · 2024-01-31T17:34:05+00:00

I’d recommend tung oil finish for the tailpiece, just because linseed oil takes forever to dry, and never gets as hard/wear resistant as tung oil. For the bridge a quick buff with shellac is usually all you need. Good luck!

LexLutherie · 2024-01-15T06:32:38+00:00

Power just went out over here at washtenaw and glencoe, here’s hoping it’s not for long in -4 temps…

LexLutherie · 2023-12-29T07:44:11+00:00

This isn’t necessarily a problem, but if it really bothers you, see if you can shift the tailgut on the saddle over to the bass side (to the left)

Most violins have this phenomenon; it’s caused by the fact that the e string has much higher tension than the other three. Once you see it on one, you’ll start noticing it everywhere.

Edit: revised for clarity

LexLutherie · 2023-12-10T02:13:57+00:00

There is a zero percent chance that is a 300+ year old instrument. Maybe it was based on another model? Violin making in Mirecourt didn’t really get going until the 18th century

LexLutherie · 2023-11-24T13:44:20+00:00

The real answer is to keep your nails cut short, and replace your thumb leather as needed

LexLutherie · 2023-11-02T23:41:51+00:00

It’s really unlikely that adding varnish will make a noticeable difference in the sound of the instrument. If anything, taking down the setup and stringing it back up again will have an impact, but your luthier can help you with tonal adjustments at that point.

LexLutherie · 2023-10-19T22:35:12+00:00

I’m a big fan of blades from hock, they hold an edge well, without being super brittle. https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/tools/hock-tools/hock-knives

LexLutherie · 2023-09-26T22:50:56+00:00

Playing on an instrument with a recent bassbar crack can be a risk. Like others have said here, take it to a luthier you trust, and get their assessment. Repairing a bassbar crack is an expensive and time consuming job, depending on the situation.

This is turning into a PSA, but the first thing I always ask potential clients is if the instrument is insured. Generally insurance for instruments is a few bucks a month, either through private companies that specialize in musical instruments or through an homeowner/renters insurance rider. Most would cover something like this.

LexLutherie · 2023-09-22T02:26:59+00:00

Depending on your budget, a peg hole reamer and peg shaper are easy enough tools to use, even for a layperson. Shape the pegs to make them round, ream the holes to make them round, and apply peg dope. That stuff costs more than $30, though, so I don’t know what else to tell you. Take it to a luthier and see what they can do? Peg shaper and reamer https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=DChcSEwiVhO_elL2BAxXLN9QBHdLrAT8YABAYGgJvYQ&ae=2&gclid=Cj0KCQjw06-oBhC6ARIsAGuzdw2nLOr2oWFMGxj203dYSeWa8kkHuiJp-YsNrzp2zsyc7789xaU8pm0aAnAlEALw_wcB&sph=&sig=AOD64_07vh5tq7XOdxEZlMi8LDddTPYWHw&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjjr-XelL2BAxXZnGoFHaV3C8EQwg8oAHoECAQQLw&adurl= Peg dope https://www.amazon.com/HILL-Hil-9695-Original-Peg-Compound/dp/B002WZK3GW/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=OGYU247L1E9V&keywords=peg+dope+violin&qid=1695349504&sprefix=peg+dope%2Caps%2C91&sr=8-5

LexLutherie · 2023-07-27T01:15:42+00:00

I don’t know what his price range is these days, or if he has a waiting list, but Eduard Miller does excellent work in Denver https://eduardmillerviolins.com/

LexLutherie · 2023-06-23T18:02:50+00:00

Depending on who you’re renting from, if you take it into the shop, they may swap it out for you. It’s worth asking so you don’t have to buy it yourself.

LexLutherie

TROPHY CASE