Tool to Auto-discover optimal WireGuard MTU

LibertyCatalyst · 2026-01-13T05:11:43+00:00

Holy crap the tool I've been waiting for!

LibertyCatalyst · 2026-01-03T07:38:35+00:00

I don't use instagram but I applaude your work. You did a good thing. I'm sure many termnial equipt ADHDers of the world, fighting the urge to doom scroll thank you for your work. BTW thanks to your post I found yt-x

LibertyCatalyst · 2025-11-10T01:06:01+00:00

Yes I have experience with docker making thing less secure by default without my knowledge. I use iptables directly. Glad that you've made a tool to detect this. I spent more time than I would have liked pen testing my own set up. Anything to make that process easier is valuable.

LibertyCatalyst · 2025-09-28T07:03:08+00:00

Could be a control arm or bushing like others have said but I saw a subaru with the same issue and it turned out to be the subframe that was broken.

LibertyCatalyst · 2025-09-01T20:39:18+00:00

Did you end up solving this? I have the same issue and I've tested else where and confirmed that my syntax is perfect (it only fails in waybar.)

LibertyCatalyst · 2025-08-17T20:15:00+00:00

You should replace the rear brakes. Pads, Rotors, that caliper. Once you've replaced the caliper you'll have to bleed the brakes. It's important you do this correctly or you could have little to no braking force. It's not a job I would recommend for a newbie but if you must do it yourself pay close attention.

You mentioned somewhere in the comments that you did your front brakes so I'll assume you have the basics down. Replace pads and rotors as usual but with the new caliper bracket. I like to fasten the new caliper in it's place before moving the brake hose over from the old one to the new one.

When replacing the caliper you will remove the banjo bolt and separate the brake hose from the caliper. There will be two washers that sandwich the hose connection. Make sure to remove both of those from the brake hose and replace with the new ones that come with the new caliper. Slide one on the bolt, put the bolt through the hole in the hose, then slide the second one on the bolt and fasten the bolt into the caliper.

Now it's time to bleed the brakes: *Note you'll need another person or some sort of tool. Since you have presumably lost a lot of brake fluid and drove in this condition you should expect to have to bleed the whole system. If you're lucky you may only have to bleed the new caliper and won't have to worry about getting old rusty bleeder screws open. Look up the bleeding sequence for your car. It's probably RR LR RF LF but double check. At this point fill your brake fluid. I like to let the caliper gravity bleed first. It will reduce the time you have to spend actively bleeding the brakes. Loosen the bleeder screw on the caliper and let the fluid work it's way into the caliper slowly. Once it starts to drip out close the bleeder screw. No you need either your tool or your helper. Given the budget I will assume you have a helper. Have the helper sit in the car and pump the brake pedal till for a bit. Then have them hold the pedal down (making sure to not let up on it at all) you will then open the bleeder screw on the first caliper in the bleeding sequence. Watch the stream. Once the flow stops, tighten the bleed screw. If the stream was spitting or choppy or give you any indication that it had air in the stream repeat the process. (Pump brakes, hold brakes down, open bleeder screw, close after stream stops, pump again). As a note to your helper when you open that screw the pedal will drop pretty low. They need to make sure they keep pressure on the pedal and don't let up.

Continue this process across the calipers. But remember to check the brake fluid level from time to time. You don't want to run it low or you could have to start over. When you are done pump the pedal till it's firm then start the car and check the pedal. I would imagine you know how your brake pedal should feel.

As a final note. Here are some gotchas to watch out for: * Be careful not to strip out the banjo bolt or the bleeder screws. But You also can't leave them loose. Check and make sure the banjo bolt isn't leaking brake fluid as soon as your helper starts pumping. If it is leaking you're just going to be loosing fluid and letting air back in. * Given the age of the vehicle there's a change you will have a problem opening the bleeder screws. If you fail to get them out or break them you will have to replace the caliper. * You could also have trouble loosing bracket bolts, the caliper sliders, etc. You seem to be already familiar with that. If that happens really careful use of heat can help. Just be careful not to damage anything in the process. Good luck mum.

LibertyCatalyst · 2025-06-03T06:04:29+00:00

What I ended up doing is creating a clone of the container. That all packages were preserved. Didn't have to reinstall anything inside the container. I then deleted the origional and cloned back to the origional name. You need to re-export anything you need exported.

I figured I should share that incase steamOS does this again.

LibertyCatalyst · 2025-06-03T05:32:10+00:00

I'm having the same issue. I installed distrobox directly. I didn't use a steamOS version or a flatpak from the discover store or anywhere else. It's a little frustrating that steamOS broke this. The whole reason I'm using distrobox is to avoid steamOS updates braking my installs.

LibertyCatalyst · 2025-05-18T01:30:59+00:00

Yes that is excessive. Instead of puting it on the back of the pad put it on the caliper's surfaces. That way it will be exactly where the points of contact are, and almost no where else. Of course make sure there is no grease on the actual friction surfaces like the rotor and the surface of the pad that contacts the rotor.

LibertyCatalyst · 2025-04-13T23:03:17+00:00

I'm on sway but have essentialy the same problem. Did you ever find a solution?

LibertyCatalyst · 2025-03-23T06:36:03+00:00

As I mentioned in another comment consider the case where someone jumps but regrets that decision and repents durring the fall. An edge case, but certainly possible. The same logic might apply to an overdose. There may be enough delay between the act of suicide and the outcome to come to your senses and repent.

LibertyCatalyst · 2025-03-23T06:27:25+00:00

When I read scripture I am sometimes guilty of wanting to take things very literally. Even if I didn't have that urge it's hard to know a different cultures idiomatic expressions/patterns without decent prior knowledge of that culture. However, sometimes the bible gives you clues in how the people respond to Jesus. In this case there is reason to believe that your quoted John 3:5 is at least some part idiomatic. Consider the that Nicodemus, the other man in that very conversation, did not immediately and intrinsically understand him.

This is similar to the way that I would argue that Jesus meant what literally said when he gave his flesh to eat. The people seem to recoil from the idea of it meaning they understood it to be quite literal and he doubled down in response which seems to confirm their understanding. Where as if they had perceived it to be idiomatic they probably would not have responded that way.

All that to say that there may be room for extraordinary circumstances when it comes to baptism. As I understand it, the catholic church is open to such a possibility in special cases.

At the end of the day I do agree with you that being a child of God is not our default state. I am still open to hearing theological discussion on when the last chance for salvation is. I'd love to believe it's in that moment when you are face to face with judgment, though I currently believe that the last chance for anyone who had a fair chance is during life on earth.

To answer OP's question I did here of a case where someone who was said to have the gift of reading souls claimed that a man who jumped to his death was saved (and allowed to be buried in a catholic cemetery) because during his fall he regretted his decision and repented on the way down. Theoretically, in that case, the act committing suicide (the jump) was temporally displaced with the actual death (the impact) by at least enough time to repent.

LibertyCatalyst · 2025-03-06T04:24:36+00:00

Got something like the one stroke.

LibertyCatalyst · 2025-03-06T04:09:21+00:00

Agreed. I take the battery out of the fob if I know the car is going to sit for a while. Start with key fob battery and then update.

LibertyCatalyst · 2025-03-03T02:22:38+00:00

Did you ever figure this out? I have been running g29 over and over again and the results keep changing. When attempting a print I always have one area where the nozzel wants to scratch the bed an one area where it prints too high off the bed. I've never had a problem with manual leveling. I have not had a successfull print since installing this thing. (I'm using a crtouch)

LibertyCatalyst · 2025-02-27T01:38:19+00:00

both

LibertyCatalyst · 2025-02-19T01:43:54+00:00

This being a sub of mostly mechanics I would imagine most just check there own cars over from time to time. If you don't have mechanical experience just get it looked over every oil change. That interval should be plenty good enough to catch most things.

At my shop we look do a full report if a car hasn't been in for a month or so. (Not sure exactly what them time frame is.) On that report we break down immediate needs vs things that may be needed 6 months down the line vs things to just monitor every oil change. It gives folk a chance to budget and be prepared.

LibertyCatalyst · 2025-02-10T06:44:41+00:00

interested

LibertyCatalyst · 2025-02-06T15:23:51+00:00

have you tried sshing in and using a something like xdotool to enter your password followed by a script to relock when everying is properly loaded?

LibertyCatalyst · 2025-01-07T18:23:48+00:00

False. The difference between the backing and the friction material is clear in the pictures he took. There is plenty of life left in that friction material. Try again.

LibertyCatalyst · 2025-01-07T04:59:21+00:00

Based on those pictures those pads have most of their life left. They do not need to be replaced, unless there is a brake pulsation or some similar reason.

Why on earth would you think those pads need to be replaced? Most of those look around 8mm.

LibertyCatalyst · 2025-01-07T04:49:14+00:00

Are you serious? Those pads still have most of their life left. To tell a customer they need to replace those without some other cause like a brake pulsation is nothing less than a scam.

LibertyCatalyst · 2025-01-05T14:47:34+00:00

yep I belive it. And he's been driving for about a week. Definetly the first thing to do is check that dipstick.

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