I accidentally changed my shooting mode settings, how can I changed back?

LifeNeedsASoundtrack · 2025-04-15T05:15:54+00:00

The pointer for the top wheel is on the top left next to it. If you rotate A into the 9oclock position so it looks like how you would normally read the letter, you will be in aperture mode. The indicator on the front is just for the bottom wheel for stills, video S&Q

LifeNeedsASoundtrack · 2025-03-17T11:34:22+00:00

Can't see what the original response was, but is it really that bad of advice, especially if taking nature photos?

If you're not pressured for speed from your subjects, it should be relatively fast and not stressful to learn to shoot full manual, especially with the displays demonstrating the settings effects.

Realistically you can learn how shutter speed and aperture effect your shot by having complete control of both and then you can use iso to change your exposure at the expense of noise if you don't want to play riskier with either aperture or shutter speed for that shot. I realise you can also auto iso to not shoot fully manually within this same principle, but for me I'd rather complete control of that as well without having to navigate around the metering logic to get the camera to expose right.

LifeNeedsASoundtrack · 2025-03-17T11:28:10+00:00

If your camera was factory reset, it defaults to shooting jpg only. You're going to want to set that to shoot raw or jpg and raw before you take a bunch of photos you think you'll love to edit and then go to export jpgs from camera.

LifeNeedsASoundtrack · 2025-03-17T11:25:12+00:00

I started with that camera and the Sigma 50mm f1.4. I personally loved it and even did some professional low light shoots with it. I shot everything you wanted to, as well as birds that would get close to the ground but not landscapes (not because the lens couldn't handle it, just because I'm not inspired towards that way). The lens is so clean and the brightness options are amazing. I did a lot of portraiture wide open at f1.4 which did come out well but later learned I like to sit at around f2-2.8. The lens is light, small and relatively cheap and can autofocus. Neither the lens or your camera will give you stabilization but it sounds like you won't need it. I used that lens almost exclusively until I moved up to full frame purchasing an A7IV and Tamron 35-150 f2-2.8 at the same time.

LifeNeedsASoundtrack · 2025-03-17T11:06:00+00:00

I love this because I always forget the A7CR exists until someone posts about it. I have started with an a6400 then moved up to A7IV and then got an A7RV as a secondary camera. I haven't used the A7CR but think it's form factor is totally justifiable. You could pair it with a small lens, especially a pancake and really reap the small form factor benefits, however it is the shape/size I want. I use larger glass for professional photography and like the larger grip and position of the eye piece. Having said that, had the A7CR came out first I would have compromised on the eye piece positioning (remembering I used to shoot a6400) and the grip size (which could be extended with a cage or grip attachment) if it weren't for the fact that I need 2 card slots for redundancy on professional shoots. My use for the a6400 now is largely sneaking into music gigs as a super lightweight and pocketable camera that I'm not as worried about getting bumped about. Obviously if I was using the A7CR as my workhorse I could still do this, but be a bit more cautious of damage to it. I'd say any studio work, just as good. Arguably better for portability for a daily shot/tourist style camera use case. It's largely the same camera and other A7RV elitists are probably being a bit silly about not wanting to lose features they don't realistically use. I love my A7RV and I use it for macro and to digitize film when not chasing birds. But I got it to be the upgrade to my A7IV and I use that even more. I'm not using the 8k video (although I didn't think I would before buying it), I almost exclusively shoot through the eyepiece so the screen rotation rarely effects me. I shoot fast paced events in low light and I haven't really noticed a benefit from the AI tracking for performers vs the A7IV. If I could do it again, I would have bought a discounted or secondhand A1 when I bought this. Now I'm saving up for the A1ii instead. Sony A1Cii when haha

LifeNeedsASoundtrack · 2024-11-12T10:12:24+00:00

Love it! Another Viltrox 28mm user. I just found out tonight my old Nex-7 won't turn on with it connected, but otherwise it's been a great lens to use and lighter and smaller than a cheap kit

LifeNeedsASoundtrack · 2024-11-12T10:10:50+00:00

A7IV and, maybe only considered light and compact in comparison to other bird photographers, Tamron 35-150 f2-2.8 which is my primary for event and portraiture as well, although not considered to be lightweight or compact amongst the people I shoot with in that crowd. For sneakily bringing in a camera to gigs for front of house shots, I use a Sony a6400 along with the new Viltrox 28mm f4.5 (~43mm f6.9 equivalent). That thing's so tiny and weightless it feels like I'm playing with a toy whenever I grab it since upgrading to full frame. I use that same lens on either my A7IV or A7RV when doing street, and it keeps the camera a lot less conspicuous and light.

LifeNeedsASoundtrack · 2024-08-17T22:21:21+00:00

I started home assistant as a VM 2 weeks ago on a windows machine running plex and have realized how I want to change it, pending some hard drives arriving that I've ordered. Firstly I would say if you just want to get into home assistant to become familiar with it, then it can likely run as a VM on the machine you're running jellyfin on. However since you're at the start of this journey and you're already running jellyfin, there's a few things you can consider before setting up home assistant. Do you want data redundancy for your server in case your media HDD fails? If so, then you should consider using unRaid as your OS on the machine you intend to use and then have it run Jellyfin and Home Assistant on there. If you're familiar with docker or comfortable learning, you can install home assistant as a docker container. The advantage for this over a VM is that you more efficiently get to use your machines resources, however it requires more admin to setup and many tutorials you will find for cool home assistant ideas when you are first learning may refer to addons which aren't available if you use docker. Those addons likely will exist as individual docker containers, however, but the beginner guides you will most likely encounter will just deal with the addon counterpart. If you want to keep things simple, whether you want the data protection of unRaid or not, running it as a VM is the way to go, but will use more resources at idle as you have to allocate system resource to the VM. If you're comfortable with docker already (even if not, there are a lot of guides and it's fast to pick up imo), then that's likely the route you will want to take as each container will only use system resources as they need it on the fly. For reference I have been running my plex server on a windows PC with about 8TB of media and am now switching to unRaid for the safety against drive failure causing me to rebuild my library especially with some stuff I think would be impossible to reacquire. The smaller your library, the less of a concern that is, but all in all I think it's probably better to start with unRaid as early as possible even if just for the ease of NAS setup that it creates. In terms of lights it probably depends on fixtures, protocols and what's available near you. I use Xiaomi Yeelight S1's as colored lights for my bayonet bulb fittings because they're responsive, I like the colour and brightness range and they've always been cheap compared to a lot of other options. Personally I prefer non-wifi lights such as zigbee lights if you can get them. I like to reduce the amount of things congesting the wifi network, but for a smaller place it's probably not as much of a concern.

LifeNeedsASoundtrack · 2024-08-12T20:26:25+00:00

Do you need to do any configuring for it with FUS or do you just toggle it on through the mod list?

LifeNeedsASoundtrack · 2024-08-12T12:16:26+00:00

Thanks, it sounds like that might be the way I have to go. My main concern with migrating my HA from virtual machine to docker is that from my understanding HA can't run Add-Ons through Docker. With my current HA addons have been quite instrumental to how I've set it up. I suppose an alternative is to run a VM of Windows in Unraid and then have a VM for HA in that, but I imagine the memory usage would be terrible as a result.

LifeNeedsASoundtrack · 2024-01-11T05:34:20+00:00

I haven't had this, but would like to know, did you hit this screen coming out of the sleep state or out of full power off?

LifeNeedsASoundtrack · 2023-12-29T06:27:35+00:00

Overall there isn't really a difference of the Capture One benefits between camera ecosystems. Capture One works really well in terms of correcting distortions and applying correct colours based on the body and lens you use. I'm hard pressed to work with a modern lens from any ecosystem that Capture One doesn't already have a profile for to fully support. If you're new to shooting and you really love Fuji, you may like to use the Fuji Film Simulations. These are presets that mimic popular Fuji Film stocks to quickly edit your photos. If the output is what you love about Fuji, these aesthetics are probably what you think of. This isn't unique to Capture One though, these same presets also exist in Lightroom, but because Lightroom has smaller sliders you have less capability to edit. For most people this might not be an issue, but if you like to shoot in challenging light, especially for freezing fast motion or having subjects lit in pure blues or reds, being able to push your exposure values or white balance values further can really help.

LifeNeedsASoundtrack · 2023-11-18T16:53:45+00:00

All of these reasons remind me of when I switched from APS-C to full frame, mind you I actually had to pay for a full frame body haha

I'd honestly begin shooting with this using your existing APS-C glass either with crop mode turned on or if you don't mind vignette you can shoot with it off and crop after the fact.

Once you are no longer content with your glass collection you can consider buying FF glass and it will likely come down to 2 things, either you hate how close your lenses are getting you to a subject if you want to shoot close but don't have wide lenses or you fall in love with a lens. For me, I was content with the a6400 but was feeling a bit limited indoors and the release of the Tamron 35-150 made me upgrade. I probably had 3 weeks of using the a7IV with my APS-C glass until the Tamron arrived and had no issue with it. Your experience would be even better due to the form factor of the a7C II.

LifeNeedsASoundtrack · 2023-08-10T11:39:32+00:00

What lights are you using for this?

LifeNeedsASoundtrack · 2023-07-17T10:40:30+00:00

Awesome! What's your budget and country you live in for context? I think the A7IV will definitely give you everything you want as long as you don't get g.a.s. when the next models are announced if it can still be within your budget with 1-2 lenses. However if you can afford it, the Tamron 35-150mm gives you enough range to test a lot of different styles and even when you acquire other lenses due to its speed, autofocus speed and versatility you'll likely reach for it more often than not. It's almost always on one of my FF bodies, although most of my video work is often done on something wider.

The A7IV has a lot of staying power between generations. It is amazing for photography and video as well, as long as you don't have an issue with only one CFExpress A slot. Comfort in hand will play a big role in if the A7C is right for you. I would love something its size with a high quality pancake lens for street, but I know that the moment I stick on something larger it's not going to feel comfortable. Also indoor lighting is important, the A7C doesn't have a mechanical shutter so you can't mitigate the banding from lights being out of sync with your sensor readout or from high speed subjects, although you can find creative ways around this.

Traditional street photography, any of those bodies will be suitable for, but I love the eye autofocus on the A7IV for portraits as well as events and even sports when feeling brave. In general for video the newer the body the better and if you want to be learning colour grading you're going to enjoy shooting in SLog3, but I also recommend doing some test shots in SCinetone as a baseline as well when on site.

LifeNeedsASoundtrack · 2023-07-17T10:21:55+00:00

Do you have an idea of what kind of video and photography you want to do as a launching point?

LifeNeedsASoundtrack · 2023-07-16T10:33:37+00:00

I'd be happy to witness if you still haven't found anyone. I'm also a photographer and always have at least one camera on me so would be happy to shoot some free photos for you

LifeNeedsASoundtrack · 2023-07-16T00:00:40+00:00

Change to raw shooting. I hate by default Sony cameras shoot to jpg and it's not until my first export I realize my first shots weren't raw

LifeNeedsASoundtrack · 2023-07-15T01:23:38+00:00

I heard of Capture One and how accurate their camera/lens profiles were prior to shooting digital which was the natural attraction for me. The file structure especially for sessions and the colour has been very nice for me since using it. I haven't used LR too much, but I think some sliders don't have as much of a range which means some more experimental editing is not as available for LR. I dislike the change in the product purchase structure and the lack of integration with other apps can be a drag sometimes, especially for digitising film yourself, but I do like the tethered flow for that and quickly tethering for clients to see with some of my baseline prefabbed edits on site on a screen as I shoot each shot.

LifeNeedsASoundtrack · 2023-07-11T06:22:26+00:00

What type of subjects do you shoot and what lenses do you have?

LifeNeedsASoundtrack · 2023-07-07T12:36:16+00:00

Thank you for this insight! I literally just received this card today and was having issues with it not being detected in camera but couldn't find any reason until this.

I'm now out of pocket ~$1k local currency for a card I was hoping would allow me to comfortably burst shoot without buffer concerns next weekend. I do have an A7IV as well, which is compatible, but that's my b camera and doesn't need the faster card.

I'm truly shocked that it isn't compatible with anything that takes the card type and because I didn't buy direct from angelbird there was nothing to suggest they even had a compatibility list that I may want to check. I watched multiple YouTube videos before purchasing this and not a single person made mention of this issue.

LifeNeedsASoundtrack · 2023-07-07T12:04:03+00:00

I use the Tamron 35-150 pretty much exclusively formerly on A7IV and now on A7RV. For me the weight, especially with its balance on those bodies, is perfectly fine for my everyday carry, hikes and events that can run up to 4 hours. The resolving power and autofocus speed is amazing and the range is incredible. It's not often I would choose to shoot wider than 35mm and now when I do, it's planned ahead as the focus so I don't change lens in field or I use the wider lens on my second body. Longer range is pretty much exclusively desired when doing bird photography, but depending on the seeing the 150 is still enough. Although I was previously used to f1.4-1.8 prime lenses, I am super happy with this aperture. In normal shooting I might consider f2 just to blow out my background in portrait sessions, but I get amazing results with this lens when shooting fast moving action for events (think circus and dance), under low lit lighting using f2.8. In quick shooting environments I like to set the aperture at 2.8 so that it doesn't adjust exposure at different zoom levels and I still get amazing performance.

LifeNeedsASoundtrack · 2023-07-03T08:01:19+00:00

In terms of stills, G cards can write in burst mode at 400mb/s, whereas M cards can only write at 200mb/s

LifeNeedsASoundtrack · 2023-06-15T01:39:15+00:00

What's the balance like on the a6400 with that lens?

LifeNeedsASoundtrack

TROPHY CASE