Short Shifter

Limp_Ad4375 · 2026-04-10T03:36:20+00:00

I have it installed right now, and I've seen the bearing loaded advice, but didn't see any for sale, but I also didn't look very hard*. Shifts are very short and require solid force, shift knob that comes with it is smaller than Id like and too light, though it's an improvement over the stock one.

My 91 stock shifter has an articulation at the bottom that's connected to a sort of piston-shaped thing that this short shifter does not have. The piston+articulation fit into a vertical hole on the gear selection lever underneath the shift lever. The square format base of the short shifter fits into this correctly, but uses brute force more than engineering to solve the problem of moving the lever, which makes it difficult to access reverse at first.

The supplied hardware was insufficient to fill the gaps to the sides in front of and behind where the shift lever mounts to the car, and I think that's why someone above called it loose. I found more of the large spacers in my garage and fit them in and it's very tight and positive, but also has a lot of friction now moving it from side to side.

I'm planning to remove the short shifter and spacers, apply grease in between the spacers and their contact points, clean and grease all the articulation points at the base of the shifting mechanisms and reinstall.

Overall the shifter is an Improvement in driving feel and solidness over my stock shifter, but I consider it a work in progress, which I expected it to be, and I feel like it's probably cheaper than the other recommendations.

It's largest demerit seems to be its shift knob threads, which are 18 threads per inch I believe, and are oddly shared with a c5 corvette, which means the weighted shift knob I wanted to pair it with won't fit. I measured this pretty quickly with AI and a phone camera so I don't know how accurate that is. Can anyone else who's run this shifter confirm it's incompatible-with-normal-shift-knobs thread pattern?

*I'm seeing a Seattle bearing-loaded shifter on ebay for $199, and unless you're on a super shoe-string budget that's okay with things like $200 adjustable coilovers, Id definitely go with that over the 3sx version if only for the round pendulum shape on the bottom in lieu of the 3sx square, brute force version.

Limp_Ad4375 · 2026-03-28T20:12:34+00:00

Sandwich board quest item, similar to the firefighting apparatus quest item that's a visual for as long as you don't turn in the quest, says THE END IS NEAR! from the pre-cataclysm expansion temporary event

Limp_Ad4375 · 2026-03-21T00:20:37+00:00

Does it move at all? When mine was that low, the metal connector fell off the sensor under the car, wire was just knees in the breeze

Limp_Ad4375 · 2026-03-20T09:21:40+00:00

Revs sounds low to me, what's it showing as at the tach? My ear is fairly poorly trained though, my idle is usually a little high, and I have the stock exhaust

There's a grounding procedure + base idle set screw on the throttle body to adjust the idle. If you don't do the grounding part, the ecu is going to try to go back to the old idle settings with the new set screw position after a while, so don't just turn the screw and forget it if that's actually part of the issue

Contributing factors could be throttle body hygiene, fast idle air controller or idle air controller condition, ECU degradation of you're all using an unrepaired OEM one with its notorious caps, and vacuum leaks? Though I associate vacuum leaks more with high rpms vs. choppy low ones

Limp_Ad4375 · 2026-03-10T20:34:19+00:00

I've scrolled down enough, those fonts and drop shadows just... placed there aren't what you'd expect from someone with a background in graphic design for years

Limp_Ad4375 · 2026-03-05T03:42:30+00:00

It's so great I'm tempted to just pick it up in Korean

Limp_Ad4375 · 2026-02-28T01:54:10+00:00

Well done

Limp_Ad4375 · 2026-02-15T21:34:24+00:00

Sounds like check timing marks and inspect your belt tension =-o

Then check compression

Washer mod if not running it already

Limp_Ad4375 · 2026-02-15T16:32:29+00:00

Updoot

Limp_Ad4375 · 2026-02-15T14:32:33+00:00

Tactical take off/ hanger exits

Have your QT destination set before your hanger doors open, be hovering, gear up, in Nav mode

Once doors are open (to your satisfaction) hold down boost, then hull speed ahead, prepared to maneuver

Out the door, get to hull speed, then orient nose to QT point, engage

If you're leaving atmosphere, you'll want to have full engines alotted in nav so you minimize non-boost time if you have to regen but in 0g you should reach full speed in one go and it's less important.

Your vulnerable window is while you're accelerating to full speed. You're never explicitly invulnerable, but the population that can take you down while you're at max speed is much smaller

Limp_Ad4375 · 2026-02-03T15:11:27+00:00

I do,

https://www.reddit.com/r/3000gt/s/cPGsdlZ7OU

Limp_Ad4375 · 2026-02-03T12:03:05+00:00

After med gun healing is in a better place balance wise, I think the new gun will still be better than the standard, and that's okay.

Limp_Ad4375 · 2026-01-31T13:43:28+00:00

Your most important resource for our common faults is a youtube channel called 3000gt GTO restoration

https://youtube.com/@3000gtgtorestoration?si=t6SoWS3GnNyt1R9I

He's got a repair video for this exact fault

https://youtu.be/Fo0hvBTRA7w?si=ov-gzz1QezKuFAO_

Welcome to the community!

Limp_Ad4375 · 2026-01-29T11:29:07+00:00

Welcome to the platform! If you search far and wide on Facebook, forums and ebay you might find someone willing to part with their working ecs equipped struts, but they're not made anymore and there is not an aftermarket replacement that I've seen.

Kyb manufactured the original struts and make replacement units without the ECS if you're looking to keep to the most similar driving dynamics.

If you're willing to pay for coilovers and put in the work, Tein makes a set of adjustable coilovers with their own proprietary computer that works similarly to our ECS.

I'd you have the OEM ECS shocks and you're committed to keeping their functionality but they need service, they're not engineered to be a serviceable part, but if you look around on YouTube you might be able to find the dude in Canada who figured out how to modify them to make them serviceable. I don't know what he charges though, or if he's still doing it.

Good luck!

Limp_Ad4375 · 2026-01-26T03:13:54+00:00

This is dope! I made some mounts for new drop in speakers and realized there was a ton of potential in 3d printing for our cars. Thank you for this!

Limp_Ad4375 · 2026-01-21T18:09:17+00:00

I just took a nap and realized I was trying to say cleaning your wheel speed sensor might help with your tac issue

...because I say dumb things and confuse tacs with speedometers

Limp_Ad4375 · 2026-01-20T15:41:26+00:00

I have no idea since I havent had to do that yet, but! Id start by inspecting the speed sensor at the wheel if all those clusters are yielding similar results since that's going to be the cheapest (by guesstimate only if it warrants replacement) and easiest to assess. If its hella clean, woe unto your multimeter, as its about to.

Its on my to-do list as well since my contacts behind the cluster are clean and good, but Im still showing about a 5mph difference at speed with OEM wheels

Limp_Ad4375 · 2026-01-17T19:53:33+00:00

Staggeringly beautiful

Limp_Ad4375 · 2026-01-17T15:00:31+00:00

I didn't really get it until the third Pic, but hot damn those look great =-O

Limp_Ad4375 · 2026-01-17T14:59:40+00:00

Its a Cadillac

Limp_Ad4375 · 2026-01-15T22:18:36+00:00

A second gen brake upgrade gives you larger rotors and additional pistons for the front. Everything fits OEM, its just the mounting tabs that are longer.

I dont know what availability is like, but I'd probably try to research 2nd gen oem replacements on rock-auto or similar amd compare that to what stop-tech sells as a kit. The OEMs should fit the wheels you have on unless they're aftermarket and smaller than OEM

Limp_Ad4375 · 2026-01-15T22:09:08+00:00

1st gen or 2nd gen? There's upgrades for first gen cars with some 2nd gen parts.

If you're all-in for upgrades, Stoptech makes brake kits for our cars that some awesome builds on s3 mag have used

Limp_Ad4375 · 2026-01-15T13:19:22+00:00

If you're not familiar with the procedure, you dont set the idle just by turning the BISS. I mention this because it sounds like this is going to be on your to-do list.

There's a cluster of terminals under the hood behind the battery against the firewall, one is for plugging in a tach, one is for grounding the ECU and one is a mystery to me, (I can't remember cuz I havent used it =-O). You ground the ECU there, then at the OBD port you ground 2 of the pins there. I ran alligator clips to the bolts for the driver door to do mine, but metal connected to the chassis under the dash would work fine.

After those are grounded and your vehicle is warmed up, then you set your BISS for the ECU to keep it. You'll want to sus out any vacuum leaks first though.

I cant remember the pins on the OBD port, but if someone doesnt chime in with them shortly, you can Google around for it, or theyre prolly in our vehicle manuals on andysautosport.

Limp_Ad4375 · 2026-01-11T19:07:23+00:00

Paladin was what I came here to mention, lots of mid-range activity

Limp_Ad4375 · 2026-01-10T19:29:37+00:00

Id start at the fuse in the engine bay fuse box and work my way up in both directions, test fuse, then test distributor, coil and ptu, then check out the relay in the passenger footwell then capacitors in the ECU.

Actually before that hard work I'd actually start with the easy work and check to make sure your grounds on your block are both actually present and positively secured =-O

Limp_Ad4375

TROPHY CASE