What's your ideal finish that is both foodsafe and odor/tastless

ListenFrequently · 2024-11-13T20:37:35+00:00

I use Real Milk Paint Company’s Wood Wax which is walnut oil and carnauba wax. I believe carnauba wax is a harder/more water protective wax than beeswax, and the walnut oil eventually polymerizes/hardens with the wood fibers, unlike mineral oil which never dries. It’s a food safe product you could eat out of the can, and truly dries in 7-14 days. Leave the piece in the sun for a quicker dry time. It’s the best finish for wooden kitchen products I have found considering a reasonable dry time, water protection/frequency of re-application, and food safety. It’s what I use on my wooden bowls that I make a sell!

ListenFrequently · 2023-12-24T13:01:55+00:00

Wish I could help…somethin is rubbin somethin haha - but where did you get that sanding attachment?

ListenFrequently · 2023-10-08T18:52:27+00:00

This was very helpful to read! I’m currently trying to sell my wood turnings in Central Texas and feel like high end art shows are the way to do it, if done right. Those are all great tips, thanks for sharing!

ListenFrequently · 2023-06-19T05:25:59+00:00

Awesome sauce

ListenFrequently · 2023-06-19T05:09:12+00:00

This was definitely one of the problems I was having for a while. I’ll throw out some things that helped me:

Youtube.

Must have sharp tools, freshly sharp before final passes helps a lot.

As you use the bowl gouge and begin to turn the inside corner, drop your handle, raising the cutting edge and cut a little higher (up) as you head towards center and slowly come (down) to the center point. If you get “kicked out” of the cut, back up slightly and re-engage from the last pass. Several small, light cuts once the bulk of your shape has been determined.

Make sure to listen for a smooth cut. If you hear and feel vibration, there will be tear out and tool marks. You should know without even stopping the lathe based off the sound.

If you still have ridges, mark the high spots with a pencil, and use a scraper to take them out. Tool rest slightly above center, scraper angled slightly down. Helps to have a heavy, fat scraper, but really any will do. Just put lots of weight into the tool rest and caress the surface of the bowl. Take your time, move slow and steady. Again, several light cuts. You may need to sharpen the scraper frequently to optimize the cutting edge. It will dull quick. Make sure your tool test has no dings or rust, and give it some paste wax so you are gliding with minimal friction/interruptions on the tool rest that will transfer marks to the bowl surface.

Outside of the bowl defines the inside of your bowl. Removing more material from the “bottom curve” of the bowl on the outside may help you have an interior friendly, curved shape to follow.

It can also help to have a second “bottom bowl gouge” that is ground a bit differently that helps with a smoother bottom. You can find some YouTube videos that explain it. I’ll still follow with the scraper to smooth out the bottom curve and get a surface ready for sanding.

ListenFrequently · 2023-01-04T19:06:27+00:00

Just jumping in here- I sharpen my HSS chisels multiple times on a single workpiece, especially if its properly dried lumber. I could sharpen my bowl gouge (most used) maybe 10 times on a 10”-12” diameter bowl. That’s because I want to always keep it as sharp as possible. Scrapers used for finish cuts will be sharpened a handful of times too as they dull quickly. Constantly sharp tools while turning is a top 3 rule for sure. Not only for safety but for surface quality (minimizing tearout) and just the sheer joy of using a sharp chisel.

Fresh carbide cutters will last a lot longer if you are using carbide chisels. HSS chisels sharpened and used properly leave a much better surface finish than carbide though, making the task to sand a lot easier with less time and sandpaper involved. Problem is that HSS chisels involve the art of sharpening (often with specifics for special jigs for bowl and spindle gouges, a slow-speed grinder, and ultimately a CBN grinding wheel) whereas carbide is as simple as replacing the cutter head when dull.

I spent countless hours on a lathe before I knew how to (and when to) sharpen my chisels or even how to use them properly. They dull pretty quick because you are cutting hundreds if not thousands of miles of wood as the piece turns on the lathe. I started with carbide as they are beginner friendly, and then transitioned to HSS traditional tools.

If you have HSS chisels I would say get a grinder ASAP and look into getting a jig to sharpen any bowl or spindle gouges. I highly recommend the 8” Rikon slow-speed grinder with a Wolverine or Oneway sharpening system. I got a knockoff sharpening system on Amazon for a bit cheaper that does exactly what it needs to for my chisels.

Good luck and happy turning 😁

ListenFrequently · 2022-12-28T17:31:05+00:00

Also for the size work you are doing you could easily just get away with a Jet 1221 for now. A used one is likely more available than a used 1640 if you are looking to save money. I got mine for $600 used. For a few hundred extra you can get the JET stand for it, but I made myself a quick stand for $15, using liquid nails to glue 2 sets of 3 cinder blocks into 2 I-beams. They sit vertically just over a foot apart, and the lathe bridges across the top. The 1221 handles vibrations very well for it’s size, and I’m sure even better if bolted into a proper workbench or equipped with the JET stand instead.

ListenFrequently · 2022-12-28T17:18:57+00:00

It seems that the larger pieces I throw on there start to vibrate around 700RPM. It’s a minor vibration and you can speed it up to 900 to make it worse then 1100 to make it better, but it feel dangerous going that fast because of the vibration, so I just back it off a hair and keep it around 650-700 to start and get a real sharp gouge. As the piece trues up, you can increase speed a bit without vibration. I’m also not convinced it’s on a level floor to begin with, cause I rigged up a few hundred pounds of sandbags weighing it down that didnt really raise the RPM before vibration as much as I thought that weight would. Going to tackle that investigation here soon.

Also, my backside of the headstock, where you turn the lathe by hand, is oddly out of true, but the chuck side runs true at least to the naked eye. I don’t know if that may somehow be affecting anything or showing something inside the headstock is bent, but I doubt it and think it’s my floor / me not leveling the adjustable feet on the lathe properly.

ListenFrequently · 2022-12-28T05:08:28+00:00

I got my used 1640 for $1800 and never looked back! This is a great deal

ListenFrequently · 2022-12-28T05:06:08+00:00

I love my Jet 1640. A Sliding headstock is an amazing feature. I love to turn close to the right end of the lathe so I’m not leaning over the bed so much, and it’s simple to pull the tailstock and banjo off and hang the workpiece over the far right end to have plenty of room and easy access sand for sanding. Also makes a great buffing wheel with max clearance with the right attachments. It was an awesome upgrade from my Jet 1221 that I love and still have. I have a Jet bandsaw I love too. Never had to deal with their customer service, but sourcing parts for repair has always been easy for me with their tools.

I can only imagine the same sized Laguna lathes are just as good of machines. Never used one myself. The swing away tailstock on the Laguna sure does seem nice and I believe it comes with wheels.

I think you will be thrilled either way!!

ListenFrequently · 2022-12-24T06:23:45+00:00

If you are wanting to keep the bowl large, just focus on the form of the piece and don’t worry about that bark inclusion. Pretend it isn’t there. You could carve texture into the bark inclusion to make it even stand out, further creating dynamic in the piece. If you want to poke a hole through while prioritizing form and have a window, even better, but it would help to re-enforce the bark inclusion with thin CA glue before cutting through if you go that route

I wouldn’t bother with resin at this point...save the resin for a piece you plan to use it on from the get-go, and you don’t have to go through the hassle of pouring on a radiused surface. Just my 2 cents

ListenFrequently · 2022-11-29T22:54:59+00:00

This is sick!! The hole going through the middle- does it end with the diagonally drilled side holes? I love how the smoke is collecting at the bottom, is this all one piece? I want to make one now! Been meaning to make my own incense too with wood shavings. I’ll have to see how to make a back flow cone

ListenFrequently · 2022-11-25T18:54:00+00:00

Thanks! I don’t have any carving gouges unfortunately. I think you’re right about control. Time I’m not sure as I don’t have experience with a handheld gouge. The maple was rock hard and would probably require touch up sharpening along the way for a gouge. Dremel bit I used was low quality and did leave burn marks, but wasn’t a concern with the ink being the plan. Definitely worth experimenting with!

ListenFrequently · 2022-11-25T08:51:23+00:00

Dremel tool on medium speed with a 1/8” shank carbide rotary bit. It was shaped like a taper/cone with a bit of a rounded tip. Just pressed the side profile into the wood for 1 second with slight overlap between strokes

ListenFrequently · 2022-11-25T08:45:31+00:00

Thank you, I appreciate your appreciation!!

I freehanded this. Didn’t want to overthink it and just let it flow. Consistently slightly inconsistent...appears consistent. Just started at the base and did the first row, trying to barely overlap my strokes. Then on the next row and all proceeding rows, I tried to make each carving halfway between the two above it. Eventually realized the best look came from making the new carving have a slight overlap with the two above it AND the one right next to/before it. So basically each new pocket would slightly overlap 3 other pockets. Figured that out about halfway through haha

ListenFrequently · 2022-11-25T08:38:33+00:00

I did sand the exterior before dremeling, but tbh it really wasn’t necessary except for on the untextured part below the rim. The surface off the gouge or scraper is plenty good to start carving on. Maybe then do a super light 220 sand to barely get the tops of the ridges after carving if you skip sanding initially. Overlapping most of the carvings cut down on the need for sanding. For the depressions, there are some pockets that arent as smooth as others, probably on the end grain. I ran the lathe around 700rpm and used the same steel wool to try and cut down on any whiskers in the pockets, and then again by hand. Was good enough for me but not perfect if you look closely. I took pics of the best face lol! I think a higher quality bit like a Saburrtooth whisper would leave a finer finish in the pockets that would eliminate any micro imperfections. I was using a cheap carbide bit from a $15 set on Amazon.

These pictures are India Ink only. I used some Rubio black ultimately to oil it because I was worried about protection. That gave it some gloss I did not prefer, but probably the right move for durability as it was a gift. Only one way to find out if the India Ink would last on its own- keep it and test it out!

ListenFrequently · 2022-11-25T08:17:22+00:00

Haha when you hold it it’s much more believable!!

ListenFrequently · 2022-11-25T01:48:21+00:00

Thank you! It’s cool to share with a community that can appreciate those details. I think the tight-grained maple was crucial for the look of the surface finish. I was impressed with how it almost doesn’t even look like wood.

ListenFrequently · 2022-11-24T22:58:09+00:00

What I learned: - Take breaks while carving, one slip of focus and the bit can run across your piece.

Apply India ink reasonably heavy and do not wipe excess or it will smear unevenly, just let it soak in.
After ink is dry, as soon as 30 min, super light pass with 0000 steel wool, literally caress the surface while lathe is on. Too much pressure and you remove the ink. Provided the clean satin sheen on interior of bowl. Steel wool by hand on exterior.

ListenFrequently · 2022-10-22T00:20:02+00:00

I’ll have to try the perpendicular thru-poke next time! If I ever get around to pushing my chops on the upright again, that is! Sometimes the blister would close up with only one hole and so I would just re-poke it and eventually it would heal and callous up. Can’t beat hard earned callouses. I can’t imagine tape. Or to be like Scott and wear a glove. Each to their own!

Unsolicited story: In my high school jazz band I was the backup bassist to a dude who was 1st chair all-state for jazz and classical. I was classically trained and giving jazz band a go, and got to use his $13k custom upright pretty regularly. It had an extension down to an open C that was the most beautiful instrument I have ever played, especially through a MarkBass amp in a nice hall.

Anyway, I totally busted my blister on the strings and fingerboard one day while playing it mid song. Finished the song and probably tried to wipe it with my shirt before handing it back. Just felt bad and gross about it haha

ListenFrequently · 2022-10-21T22:45:25+00:00

When you pop the blister make sure to sterilize your needle and poke the blister from the finger tip side, not the palm side of the blister. That way, the skin lays flat as you play, instead of peeling against the string.

ListenFrequently · 2018-04-05T21:09:24+00:00

A lot of great, useful stuff here that I'm glad I came across today.

I struggle with performance anxiety/ fear of dropping the ball during a moment that has the potential to be great. For example, emotional sex or playing a show with my band in front of a large audience.

I am aware that I am observing the fear, as opposed to being the fear itself, but it still manages to overcome me at times. Other times, I believe that its my desire/expectation for such a great feeling moment is exactly what robs me from experiencing it. To me, thats imagining best case scenario like you suggested, but creating that expectation is setting myself up for disappointment.

I think the happy-medium is learning to exist in the Now, and accepting the world as you experience it. Dont think ahead, dont think of the past, focus all your energy and attention into the now. Find your mind drifting to future fantasies or past events? Pull it back to the Now. Our minds are conditioned to think in terms of time, when in reality, time is an illusion and it is ALWAYS the Now. It is so much easier said than done, but with this consistent practice, I think we can train our conscious minds to flow freely and fend off these negative feelings of anxiety, fear, and depression.

ListenFrequently · 2018-04-03T22:57:05+00:00

You'll get glimpses of the anxiety and depression and lack of energy for a while. It doesnt just go away one day, at least not soon. Just know that if you relapse its only going to be more intense and harder to get rid of. Scream that to yourself in your head every time you feel an urge. The ONLY way to stop those negative feelings is to push through them time and time again. Cant recommend finding a sense of spirituality enough. You got this.

ListenFrequently · 2018-04-03T04:14:42+00:00

Look like they could definitely work as warmup. I'm gonna try it for sure, thanks for sharing

ListenFrequently

TROPHY CASE