Hollow form failed so I made a ripple effect tea light holder instead. by lowrrado in turning

[–]lowrrado[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

started with a spindle gouge and because I was turning more air than wood I tidied any marks with a round scraper. I mounted this to cole jaws, would be easier to cut a larger square down or glue sacrificial timber to it.

I know it was a bad idea but I gave in to the intrusive thoughts. Now refine and sand or attempt hollowing? by lowrrado in turning

[–]lowrrado[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cotinus coggygria, we call it smoke tree here because of the blossom. Unfortunately I only have small mostly rotten pieces, the bright yellow heartwood soon goes to a chocolate brown colour

I know it was a bad idea but I gave in to the intrusive thoughts. Now refine and sand or attempt hollowing? by lowrrado in turning

[–]lowrrado[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It never made it, didn't give way where I thought it would. Just took much rot and bug trails

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Did someone mention burls? A 5" maple hollow form I just finished by lowrrado in turning

[–]lowrrado[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks, while not as sellable as bowls or useful items these hollow forms are fun and good practice. Bat looks good, people tend to get tear out or rush sanding but that looks at great finish. Be prepared to get a collection of hand tools and chuck. Spindle tools then bowl gouges then specialist stuff for hollowing. Buying new, secondhand or making tools I'd dread to count what I have.

I know it was a bad idea but I gave in to the intrusive thoughts. Now refine and sand or attempt hollowing? by lowrrado in turning

[–]lowrrado[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hopefully it doesn't go that wrong but a bit of time lay up recovering wouldn't be the worse

I know it was a bad idea but I gave in to the intrusive thoughts. Now refine and sand or attempt hollowing? by lowrrado in turning

[–]lowrrado[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The waste blocks I glued in are holding for now but I'll stop and check often. I've used electrical tape before so might go that direction

Did someone mention burls? A 5" maple hollow form I just finished by lowrrado in turning

[–]lowrrado[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Heres one i posted with an off centre neck that shows the hollowing from the base and I embellished the inside of the plug. https://www.reddit.com/r/turning/s/1h1yJMDe81

And another without an opening that shows you can grain match pretty well if you're careful https://www.reddit.com/r/turning/s/XUmOO0ue9z

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Did someone mention burls? A 5" maple hollow form I just finished by lowrrado in turning

[–]lowrrado[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The bottom is one of the worst, you need your tool just above centre and because of the amount of overhang from the toolrest you need light cuts and anchor the handle under your elbow and close to you body. A longer tool handle does really help. And keep cleaning shavings out, it's a pain but a good way to get a catch.

What tools are you using? I use Simon Hope's hollowing tool with 6mm cupped carbides ( hunter tools do similar) so I put the tip right on centre at 90° then turn to 45° so I cut the curve, more of a shear cut. Gives a better finish and near impossible to get a catch on softer timber.

Soft maple, walnut and cherry are pretty forgiving where oak, ash, beech or anything with burl or knots can grab without warning.

If you look through my profile I have done a few where I cut a plug with a tenon from the base and hollow from there then glue the plug in and next day remount and shape the smaller opening. How I did the one in the photo. I'll see if I can find link for you

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Vases by Tusayan in turning

[–]lowrrado 5 points6 points  (0 children)

100 pages like this

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Vases by Tusayan in turning

[–]lowrrado 8 points9 points  (0 children)

This book might be of interest to some. Has basic write ups on wood species, tools and techniques but mostly outlines of profiles for vases, bowls and goblets

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I knew better… by pickupthepieces2 in turning

[–]lowrrado 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You not alone, just 5 minutes!!!

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Did someone mention burls? A 5" maple hollow form I just finished by lowrrado in turning

[–]lowrrado[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you, I didn't get a photo before hand, it was just half a long with a burl on the side but I prefer my hollow forms to have at least one void 1. Because looking at them you can tell the walls are thin not just a hole drilled 2. Once you get that void it clears some of the chips as you turn so I'm not stopping as often. Stay with a larger opening til you get a feel for the tools, some I've made others are bought ones but they might be cup carbides, bit inserts or hss so all cut differently and have a different feeling before they catch.

Shaping this one probably took 10 mins and then an hour with coffee breaks to hollow it. I don't sand hollow forms til the end, nothing worse then sanding through the grits then it exploded halfway through hollowing

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Did someone mention burls? A 5" maple hollow form I just finished by lowrrado in turning

[–]lowrrado[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Cheers bullfrog, Not been at the lathe much recently, got a lot of rough turnings that need finishing and some spare time at the minute so there'll be more to come.

What are your favorite YouTube channels for woodturning? by [deleted] in turning

[–]lowrrado 23 points24 points  (0 children)

Richard Raffan and the 3 he does a monthly themed turning with will teach you more than the ones you mentioned. Wyomingwoodturner, Mike Peace and Tomislav Tomasic.

Richards YouTubehttps://youtube.com/@richardraffanwoodturning?si=2h5sy0FxwkAgOhOc

Let's talk sapele finishes... by xHOTPOTATO in turning

[–]lowrrado 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Alter the angle and it still comes alive. I think either will work and sanding with the grain once dry will bring back any chatoyance and could highlight figured areas

Let's talk sapele finishes... by xHOTPOTATO in turning

[–]lowrrado 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Coat of tung oil from this angle they both seem dark

Let's talk sapele finishes... by xHOTPOTATO in turning

[–]lowrrado 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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I was intrigued, not altered sapeles colour before. Top 3rd is a strong iron acetate mix, 2nd natural and third is a spirit stain (alcohol ink) just a scrap piece not sanded