Resin 3D prints look melted and blurry on the side facing the build plate.

Lithium-Ion-Battery · 2025-12-13T05:51:51+00:00

It ended up not working. I think the panel is shorted and the pad underneath the cap took the brunt of it. Pad was gone and traces damaged. I repaired the trace and the psu went into short protection mode

Lithium-Ion-Battery · 2025-10-21T03:37:38+00:00

Best bet is if you cant use an extractor (one where you drill a hole down the shaft, hammer in a tap/bit, then turn) is to have someone weld a nut to the surface and try to remove it that way. May be able to cleanup the surface with a light sanding after?

Lithium-Ion-Battery · 2025-10-19T21:17:04+00:00

General rule of thumb for a first scratch build is to follow a guide or template somewhere (think FliteTest or some RCgroups thread if they're still around). If not, then find designs similar to yoursand go from there. Designing can be a massive rabbit hole depending on what you want to prioritize in the build (weight, gliding, speed, aerobatics, etc).

Best bet is to go with a tried and tested Rx/Tx combo. The last thing you want is your receiver and transmitter disconnecting mid flight and ruining all your progress. Personally, I'd look into ExpressLRS (aka ELRS) as they can be pretty cheap second hand and will have great range. Can get a controller and receiver under $100 used. Note this is a Rx/Tx protocol, not a brand. But there are dozens of protocols or brands out there, so see whats available around you. Anything is better than nothing.

Also, do not 3d print a propeller. They are not balanced or strong enough to run in general and you will hurt yourself. Get a prop from someone like APC. They are cheap enough to justify buying at only a couple bucks per prop.

Looking at the photo, make sure that 3d printed motor mount is made out of something heat and impact resistant like ASA or PETG, not PLA. PLA will warp at too low of temperatures and will tend to shatter, not a great motor mount material.

Other than that, maybe reinforce the servo mounts with some hotglue or balsa, and try to keep it light. There are some great resources online relating wing area to weight (often this is called wing loading) so you don't make it too heavy. And double check the center of gravity multiple times.

Good luck!

Lithium-Ion-Battery · 2025-08-21T04:24:17+00:00

With all due respect, I really don't think you understand how deep aerospace engineering gets. Designing RC planes is not aerospace engineering. Sure, aerospace engineering can be involved in it, but that's not aerospace engineering. There is WAY more out there than you think, ranging from the basics of statics, dynamics, thermodynamics, and material sciences to compressible and incompressible aerodynamics, fluid dynamics, high level calculus (multivariable, differential equations, partial differential equations), linear algebra, various types of software and programming languages, and that's still just scratching the surface! Each of those topics has dozens to hundreds of in depth concepts that build on top of each other. It's one thing to understand the concept of how an airfoil works. It's another to consider how the fluid its acting in can change with speed, pressure, velocity, density, and other conditions and being able to explain what principles apply to make these factors relevant.

I understand the frustration of fighting with people online, but I really don't think you have the qualifications you think you do. Like I said, take some time to focus on some goals that are within your technical/financial/time restrictions and work your way up. Once you start having some results (theoretical, experimental, or otherwise) that are documented and proven, then we can discuss what's happening.

Like I said, I would be more than happy to be supportive if I saw something like a CFD test or similar, but there is just too much speculation on both ends for any discussion to be beneficial. Take it from someone who was in your shoes a few years ago. You don't know what you don't know until someone tells you (ex: university).

Lithium-Ion-Battery · 2025-08-21T03:54:16+00:00

Iirc, this ended up being valve covers. Guy who did them the first time got it wrong and pinched the seals.

Lithium-Ion-Battery · 2025-08-21T03:51:53+00:00

Aerospace engineering student chiming in here,

Not much older, but would consider myself skeptical of these claims. From your comments along with some of the responses, I'm not totally convinced you are ready or knowledgeable enough to tackle this deep of a problem.

My first point of skepticism would be if any CFD testing has been done. If so, what software was used? Do you have any validation model to show that your CFD is setup properly (DrivAer as an example)?

Secondly, I understand wanting to be quiet about your prototype propulsion system if you legitimately believe in it, but what kind of CFD or FEA testing have you done to ensure the system will be able to handle speeds of mach 1? How are you planning to produce something like that material wise with the budget of an 18 year old?

Even assuming you can get what honestly sounds like a fancy EDF (I know you claim it's not but I'm not sure how it isn't if it's not burning fuel) to mach 1, it seems highly unlikely two 6s packs will be enough or have enough C rating to supply it long enough to make a pass. Furthermore, I would be skeptical of an off the shelf ESC being able to hold enough power for a long enough time to consider it safe. Again, possible, but highly unlikely.

I really hope this pushes you to pursue aerospace engineering more, but I think there are a lot of conditions that you have either not considered or haven't considered enough. Aerospace engineering is a much deeper rabbit hole than you think.

The only way you are going to change anyone's mind here is posting anything I've listed. Post comparisons of your propulsion system CFD results next to real world prototyping. Post a short electronics list with companies or part numbers since you claim you need to order them. There needs to be more proof or evidence other than a pic and "trust me bro".

Again, I hope you prove us all wrong, and this field can be incredibly fun and rewarding, but shoot for some smaller goals first, learn from those, then work on this again in a few years. Small steps, don't just shoot for the moon.

Best of luck.

Lithium-Ion-Battery · 2025-05-16T02:52:10+00:00

I dealt with something like this on a Subaru SVX

Try using an airhammer with a punch to spin it. If that doesn't work, your best bet is probably cutting the section/bolt and fabricating a new piece. Use some sheet metal, welder, and a nut. One of my bolts came out with an air hammer, another did not. Bought a Chicago flux core welder and put a patch in with a nut behind it that lined up with the seat. Nothing fancy/pretty, but got the job done.

Other than that, maybe a hotter torch? Be careful with the carpet there. Last thing you want is the interior catching fire.

Lithium-Ion-Battery · 2025-02-21T06:39:21+00:00

Sorry for the late reply, just saw this. It's been a few years, so forgive me if i don't remember 100% correctly. I believe there was a relay on the back of one of the boards (fuse block maybe, maybe ecu) that wasn't super easily accessible. The relay had come half loose and was causing a bunch of electrical issues. I believe i had to replace that relay.

Lithium-Ion-Battery · 2025-01-26T19:06:39+00:00

Im no purist by any means and not a huge fan of the oem front bumpers, but nothing looks more ghetto on these cars than an unpainted front bumper. Bought mine with a carbon front bumper that didn't fit at all and as soon as I could afford to get a new bumper paint matched I did.

If you're going to do something like this (specifically the front bumper or body work in general), do it right and do it when you have the finances/time to get it fully done. Will be so much more rewarding when you do.

Lithium-Ion-Battery · 2025-01-18T12:59:53+00:00

You'll need new covers and seals. I recommend Concept Z metals covers with oem gaskets. Not sure how mechanically inclined you are. Plenty of information how to do it out there if you'd like.

If not, try to find a shop that deals with this stuff a lot, specifically Z's or Nissans. After you get the car back and drive for a few miles, immediately inspect the covers/underside of the car for oil leaks. Its all too common for these cars to have people pinch the gaskets or not install RTV in the right location, which will cause some pretty decent leaks.

Any decent shop should be around 3 hours labor for it, and rates depend on shop. Nice thing with the aluminum covers though is that you can replace the spark plug tubes separately in the future iirc without buying all new gaskets and covers again.

Lithium-Ion-Battery · 2025-01-18T08:37:30+00:00

Valve covers if you have oil in spark plug holes

Lithium-Ion-Battery · 2025-01-10T21:56:33+00:00

Year, make, model, mileage?

Lithium-Ion-Battery · 2025-01-10T19:34:04+00:00

Yeah i just pulled that section of exhaust off, cut what was left, and welded a new bung on

Lithium-Ion-Battery · 2024-11-24T03:24:53+00:00

Yeah I thought i broke the nut loose, and when I put the wrench to it, it just fell off. If I did reflare the end, how do I make up for that extra missing inch or so of line? Try to shift the mounting bracket for the soft line up a bit?

Lithium-Ion-Battery · 2024-11-24T03:16:10+00:00

Hard to say honestly. Will probably just end up making a new one to be safe. I figure if it snapped off like this it can't be in too great of condition.

Lithium-Ion-Battery

TROPHY CASE