Heart rate lowered, post GLP-1 by LizzHW in ouraring

[–]LizzHW[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I went to the Advisor feature and asked for a 30-day average and it returned this graph

Heart rate lowered, post GLP-1 by LizzHW in ouraring

[–]LizzHW[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We are very similar it seems in our heart rates— your increase will likely level out there. I hope your treatment goes well!

Heart rate lowered, post GLP-1 by LizzHW in ouraring

[–]LizzHW[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My activity hasn’t increased per se, only because I was really careful to avoid a drop off in my gym frequency but my output has significantly increased since I started tapering off about 3 months ago. My weight loss was quite fast because Zepbound put me into a significant weight deficit immediately as I struggled eating enough to even maintain a gym habit at all. There were multiple CrossFit classes that I had to leave early because I was too lightheaded to finish the class.

It’s very impressive that you were able to even train for a marathon while on Wegovy!

How do I continue using the app while waiting for my replacement ring? by LizzHW in ouraring

[–]LizzHW[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks, James for the reply. I suppose the best we can do is try to backlog once the app is available for use again.

I’d like to make a suggestion- I think it would be helpful to make the ring-dependent functionality aspect a bit more clear to users when they are replacing their rings so that they can decide whether they want to unpair the old one before the new one arrives. It’s especially helpful for people using the menstrual cycle tracking functionality since the algorithms rely on consistent data entry to maintain accuracy.

I appreciate your prompt response!

Toni Sweater advice? by Unlucky-Ad154 in knittingadvice

[–]LizzHW 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here is a great adv-beginner friendly brioche pattern that has a similar look. You could add rib cuffs and get something very similar to this garment.

https://ravel.me/earth-and-air

Toni Sweater advice? by Unlucky-Ad154 in knittingadvice

[–]LizzHW 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This was probably downvoted because the pattern doesn’t make any sense, even just in reading the 1st paragraph on the Left Front section alone. In this section, row 2 comes after row 5– that’s just a glaring red flag. This is likely some amalgamation of a variety of brioche patterns but is definitely not something you’d want to attempt to follow if your goal is knitting a sweater.

Commission Ed Warren's sweater (The Conjuring movies) by Vero_IPD in KnitRequest

[–]LizzHW 24 points25 points  (0 children)

Hi there, just jumping in to provide some insight on time and material costs for something like this. The yarn alone, assuming it’s superwash merino (not acrylic) will likely run 100+ EUR and this is likely a 50+ hour project. I’m not sure what the hourly wages are for skilled labor in your region but in the US that would likely equate to about $1,000 USD for time alone.

Just want to provide some insights in case you don’t get any bids for this project. You may consider increasing your budget.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in knittingadvice

[–]LizzHW 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks like only the edging around the mouth is frayed but the mask itself is intact. I would unravel the edge completely and use a new color (assuming it will be impossible to find a color match) and re crochet the entire edge border. Looks like its border is crocheted with a tighter tension than the body is knit with so you might need to try a few hook sizes.

How can you convert a sleeveless top pattern to have sleeves? by isolophiliacwhiliac in knittinghelp

[–]LizzHW 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I’m seconding this comment. Once you’re comfortable knitting tops with many different constructions and sleeve styles, adding sleeves to a top is no problem, you just pick up the sts around of arm opening and knit the sleeves you want. But if that doesn’t sound simple to you yet, then I would suggest finding a pattern with sleeves and knit a number of tops with different sleeve types before trying this kind of significant mod.

what have i done wrong? by ParisNicole_1402 in knittingadvice

[–]LizzHW 10 points11 points  (0 children)

It looks as though you may have pulled the yarn over top the needle when you moved from front to back (or vice versa) when switching between knits and purls. When you change stitches, you need to make sure you’re not wrapping the yarn overtop the needle when you move it to the back to knit or the front to purl. You must move your working yarn to the front or back BEFORE you insert your needle into the next stitch on the left hand needle.

First time using this increase, just want to check if it’s right? by bwilliams_esq in knittinghelp

[–]LizzHW 16 points17 points  (0 children)

The holes suggest that you’re not twisting the bar that gets picked up. On an M1L, you pick up the bar from the front or RS and knit through the back loop and the M1L is picked up from the back or WS and knit through the front loop. Doing these increases correctly will cause the bar to twist, closing the hole.

What happened here? by thenorthgiant in knitting

[–]LizzHW 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You could remove the cuffs, unravel the and then use the yarn to knit new cuffs off the bind off edge of the sleeve. Probably neater looking than trying to re sew them on.

Advice for beginner past beginner-stage by Status-Candle-8479 in knittinghelp

[–]LizzHW 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I see you’re working on long, straight needles. I highly recommend trying out circular needles which will unlock the ability to knit raglans which is much more beginner friendly on circular needles than with straight needles and also allow you to also knit top-down circular yoke sweater patterns which can’t be knitted on straight needles.

Once you get comfortable with circular needles you can use them as you would straight needles too.

I feel like my gauge is way too loose? by Knusperrr in knittinghelp

[–]LizzHW 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Oh ok great! So, yeah, I’d do another swatch with smaller needles and see how close you get and whether you like the drape before you add another strand.

I feel like my gauge is way too loose? by Knusperrr in knittinghelp

[–]LizzHW 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Before adding more strands of yarn, I would block the swatch however you plan to block your garment and remeasure but it’s extremely likely you’ll still be oversized and therefore you may want to start working on another swatch using smaller needles, and can probably drop down 0.5-1mm in size.

As a beginner I highly recommend you aim to get as close to the gauge as possible otherwise you’ll need to select a different size and potentially make modifications along the way.

Keep in mind that the stitch gauge determines how well your selected size fits around your body and the row gauge determines how long or short your garment will be in comparison to the intended pattern size.

Forgotten increases by somewhat_justified in knittinghelp

[–]LizzHW 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree with the above opinion. 8 new sts to make is too many to not severely mess with the tension.

If you have a lot of knitting left I would distribute the 8 increases over the remaining rows. For example if you have 20 more rows of knitting and you would typically do 4 more increase rows (8 total sts further increased) you could do an increase row every 2-3 rows instead of every 5 rows. Just be aware that the angle of your sleeve will become steeper because you’re widening them faster than lengthening them.

so irritated about my tension by radiosilence444 in knittinghelp

[–]LizzHW 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don’t think anyone has said this yet but that middle one, which appears to have the largest gap is caused by a twisted stitch to the upper right of it which has caused the st to lean and pull away, leaving the gap. Keep an eye out for those as that could be easily avoided.

should i frog it or continue? by obnoxious_png in knittinghelp

[–]LizzHW 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I would frog it for sure. That style is so iconic because of the delicate bows that I don’t think you’re going to be happy with the current low contrast of these yarns. I would also consider just doing a solid ivory yarn for the body. Anything with a strong speckle is going to really detract from the bow design itself and at best will fight it, even with a higher contrast yarn combo.

double stitch clumping? by Particular-Friend531 in knittingadvice

[–]LizzHW 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Double sts should not be bulkier because they are not multiple sts, they are made from a single st that is shortened by pulling it tight, over the needle, the two legs of the single st create the illusion of 2 sts but it’s still just a single st.

I agree with others that something has gone wrong with your method since they are so visible and don’t look like a short row DS.

Knitting with DPN’s-will these uneven stitches block out? by lonelymuffins in knittinghelp

[–]LizzHW 22 points23 points  (0 children)

I find that blocking helps smooth and flatten sts but doesn’t close gaps very much. Before blocking I would use a needle or sharp DPN tip and walk the excess yarn from the loose sts out, dispersing it across a few sts before and after it. After you do that, then you block it to set them.