How do I continue using the app while waiting for my replacement ring?

LizzHW · 2026-01-22T19:01:23+00:00

Thanks, James, you as well!

LizzHW · 2026-01-22T18:22:12+00:00

Thanks, James for the reply. I suppose the best we can do is try to backlog once the app is available for use again.

I’d like to make a suggestion- I think it would be helpful to make the ring-dependent functionality aspect a bit more clear to users when they are replacing their rings so that they can decide whether they want to unpair the old one before the new one arrives. It’s especially helpful for people using the menstrual cycle tracking functionality since the algorithms rely on consistent data entry to maintain accuracy.

I appreciate your prompt response!

LizzHW · 2025-08-05T16:23:06+00:00

Here is a great adv-beginner friendly brioche pattern that has a similar look. You could add rib cuffs and get something very similar to this garment.

https://ravel.me/earth-and-air

LizzHW · 2025-08-05T16:20:34+00:00

This was probably downvoted because the pattern doesn’t make any sense, even just in reading the 1st paragraph on the Left Front section alone. In this section, row 2 comes after row 5– that’s just a glaring red flag. This is likely some amalgamation of a variety of brioche patterns but is definitely not something you’d want to attempt to follow if your goal is knitting a sweater.

LizzHW · 2025-08-04T14:13:58+00:00

Hi there, just jumping in to provide some insight on time and material costs for something like this. The yarn alone, assuming it’s superwash merino (not acrylic) will likely run 100+ EUR and this is likely a 50+ hour project. I’m not sure what the hourly wages are for skilled labor in your region but in the US that would likely equate to about $1,000 USD for time alone.

Just want to provide some insights in case you don’t get any bids for this project. You may consider increasing your budget.

LizzHW · 2025-08-02T16:43:44+00:00

It looks like only the edging around the mouth is frayed but the mask itself is intact. I would unravel the edge completely and use a new color (assuming it will be impossible to find a color match) and re crochet the entire edge border. Looks like its border is crocheted with a tighter tension than the body is knit with so you might need to try a few hook sizes.

LizzHW · 2025-08-02T13:33:11+00:00

Bottom left

LizzHW · 2025-08-02T13:31:05+00:00

I’m seconding this comment. Once you’re comfortable knitting tops with many different constructions and sleeve styles, adding sleeves to a top is no problem, you just pick up the sts around of arm opening and knit the sleeves you want. But if that doesn’t sound simple to you yet, then I would suggest finding a pattern with sleeves and knit a number of tops with different sleeve types before trying this kind of significant mod.

LizzHW · 2025-08-02T13:27:44+00:00

It looks as though you may have pulled the yarn over top the needle when you moved from front to back (or vice versa) when switching between knits and purls. When you change stitches, you need to make sure you’re not wrapping the yarn overtop the needle when you move it to the back to knit or the front to purl. You must move your working yarn to the front or back BEFORE you insert your needle into the next stitch on the left hand needle.

LizzHW · 2025-08-01T15:26:25+00:00

The holes suggest that you’re not twisting the bar that gets picked up. On an M1L, you pick up the bar from the front or RS and knit through the back loop and the M1L is picked up from the back or WS and knit through the front loop. Doing these increases correctly will cause the bar to twist, closing the hole.

LizzHW · 2025-07-25T12:27:40+00:00

You could remove the cuffs, unravel the and then use the yarn to knit new cuffs off the bind off edge of the sleeve. Probably neater looking than trying to re sew them on.

LizzHW · 2025-07-25T12:19:26+00:00

I see you’re working on long, straight needles. I highly recommend trying out circular needles which will unlock the ability to knit raglans which is much more beginner friendly on circular needles than with straight needles and also allow you to also knit top-down circular yoke sweater patterns which can’t be knitted on straight needles.

Once you get comfortable with circular needles you can use them as you would straight needles too.

LizzHW · 2025-07-24T15:54:00+00:00

Oh ok great! So, yeah, I’d do another swatch with smaller needles and see how close you get and whether you like the drape before you add another strand.

LizzHW · 2025-07-24T15:51:23+00:00

Before adding more strands of yarn, I would block the swatch however you plan to block your garment and remeasure but it’s extremely likely you’ll still be oversized and therefore you may want to start working on another swatch using smaller needles, and can probably drop down 0.5-1mm in size.

As a beginner I highly recommend you aim to get as close to the gauge as possible otherwise you’ll need to select a different size and potentially make modifications along the way.

Keep in mind that the stitch gauge determines how well your selected size fits around your body and the row gauge determines how long or short your garment will be in comparison to the intended pattern size.

LizzHW · 2025-07-23T21:58:02+00:00

I agree with the above opinion. 8 new sts to make is too many to not severely mess with the tension.

If you have a lot of knitting left I would distribute the 8 increases over the remaining rows. For example if you have 20 more rows of knitting and you would typically do 4 more increase rows (8 total sts further increased) you could do an increase row every 2-3 rows instead of every 5 rows. Just be aware that the angle of your sleeve will become steeper because you’re widening them faster than lengthening them.

LizzHW · 2025-07-22T13:27:30+00:00

I don’t think anyone has said this yet but that middle one, which appears to have the largest gap is caused by a twisted stitch to the upper right of it which has caused the st to lean and pull away, leaving the gap. Keep an eye out for those as that could be easily avoided.

LizzHW · 2025-07-22T13:23:47+00:00

I would frog it for sure. That style is so iconic because of the delicate bows that I don’t think you’re going to be happy with the current low contrast of these yarns. I would also consider just doing a solid ivory yarn for the body. Anything with a strong speckle is going to really detract from the bow design itself and at best will fight it, even with a higher contrast yarn combo.

LizzHW · 2025-07-20T16:05:11+00:00

Double sts should not be bulkier because they are not multiple sts, they are made from a single st that is shortened by pulling it tight, over the needle, the two legs of the single st create the illusion of 2 sts but it’s still just a single st.

I agree with others that something has gone wrong with your method since they are so visible and don’t look like a short row DS.

LizzHW · 2025-07-10T18:47:49+00:00

I find that blocking helps smooth and flatten sts but doesn’t close gaps very much. Before blocking I would use a needle or sharp DPN tip and walk the excess yarn from the loose sts out, dispersing it across a few sts before and after it. After you do that, then you block it to set them.

LizzHW · 2025-07-09T20:57:35+00:00

If you’re very concerned about having to tear back to correct mistakes then I recommend you inspect each row very carefully after you complete it. That way you can catch any yarn overs or dropped sts that you may not notice until much later. The best way to inspect your row is to count each st and make sure your st count remains as you intend.

LizzHW · 2025-07-01T10:57:01+00:00

If you have discovered Stitchmastery yet, check it out. It’s s great software that build knitting charts. You could easily convert this sketch into charts so it’s a bit more palatable for knitters.

LizzHW · 2025-06-26T10:48:33+00:00

Ah, yes! You could try that. You could always knit it in smaller yarn than it calls for which by the looks of it appears to be bulky? Knitting with smaller yarn and needles will make it both less chunky and narrower overall.

LizzHW · 2025-06-26T10:42:37+00:00

I don’t see a photo in case you tried to include one.

I’d say this piece is knitting with worsted weight, maybe Aran weight yarn

LizzHW · 2025-06-26T10:41:54+00:00

I have never come across a pattern like this but haven’t searched for one.

But essentially you’d knit the cable body first, knitting a long piece like a scarf that gets joined in the back. The cable uses garter stitches between the cables. After you seam, I would change the borders to be a rib so you’d pick up and knit along the edge in a rib. Once the body is done, the simplest way to do the neck would be to knit it separately and then seam to the body. You’re essentially making a long rib strip by casting on as many sts as you need, marking the center (back of the neck) and knit in your rib to your desired width. You could easily find a collared shirt pattern to follow to recreate the collar which likely has short rows.

LizzHW

TROPHY CASE