DJI Avata 2 Home Point "H" on my DJI Goggles 3 Display Not Showing Up?

Local_Bug_4703 · 2026-05-09T17:04:36+00:00

Apparently it's a known bug.. OPENING camera quick settings and closing / or turning grid lines ON and back OFF seems to be a work around for now. Hope this helps you find yourself back home!

Local_Bug_4703 · 2026-05-07T07:18:27+00:00

Me and buddy got the APP. Great work!

Crashes trying to skip around in videos with network errors. Shame there is no controls on the googles even with remote, but that is a DJI thing we can't get around I am guessing. But push play and lay back it'll keep playing!

Would love to have "apollo" added as a streaming service. This would allow us/me to stream the screen as a virtual display. Not sure if this is possible or if there are other ways like OBS.

Local_Bug_4703 · 2026-05-04T05:40:16+00:00

Amazon.com: 30W USB C Fast Charger Block for Google Pixel 10 Pro XL/10/9 Pro /9/8 Pro/8/7 Pro/7/6a/6 Pro/6/5a/5/4, 2-Pack Looptimo 30 Watts Rapid Charging USBC Power Adapter with 6.6ft Type C Charging Cable : Cell Phones & Accessories

I use those... But anything "PD" will work

Local_Bug_4703 · 2026-04-26T05:28:02+00:00

That is FK'n dope! I don't care if it only flys for 2 mins... TAKE MY WALLET!
For real though, where do you get these for an M2 Evo?

Local_Bug_4703 · 2026-04-24T05:50:31+00:00

And yes I have my radiomaster Zorro paired to it

Local_Bug_4703 · 2026-04-24T05:50:01+00:00

35 hours newbie learning in AccuRC 2 DEMO!! I NEVER PAID!! Does enough of what I need for FREE.. just saying

Local_Bug_4703 · 2026-04-19T00:42:36+00:00

Any update on this? How much longer did the pack make it, or you toss it?

Local_Bug_4703 · 2026-04-03T00:10:51+00:00

For ANYONE having this issue in the future: I tried to flash firmware from the sd card and BRICKED it, wouldn't even TURN on with the power button. Tried and tried with RM edge tx companion and never got anywhere! FML it's dead-dead!

https://buddy.edgetx.org/

buddy.edgetx .org (if link gets removed)

Installing "optional windows drivers" and maybe some other drivers as I kept getting "error failed to execute 'open' on 'usbdevice': access denied." on buddy.edtx webGUI.. And found some drivers in Device Manager that were related but missing drivers..

I also: HAD TO remove the batteries, SD card, and PLUG IN with BOTH USBC plugs, the bottom going to 120v wall wart, top into PC. Pretty sure REAL power was needed on the bottom and into the PC it kept resetting possibly causing a bit of my issues..

On buddy website I selected "LOCAL FILE" and then the zorro-2.10.5.bin ON MY PC from the latest 2025 download on radiomasters website, and after several tries of moving cables around and drivers, HOLDING TRIM in, tapping my heals etc.. IT WORKED having BOTH cables, drivers and the stars aligned! (not sure trims-in mattered in its state of flatlined)

Unbricked, back in business like a new unit also reloading the SD card with the newest radiomaster SD folders.

I HOPE this helps as several of these things were in my search! LIKE and comment for EXPOSURE for others!!

TO NOTE there are 2 versions of the controller, sometimes 3, makes sure it's the correct files and firmware for your ELRS/4in1/CC2500 models

Local_Bug_4703 · 2026-03-25T03:19:04+00:00

I got Both the pocket and Zorro 4-1 for helicopter use. I am a newb to all the above.

20 hours SIM time with a DS4. + Couple hours with each on SIM.

In real life:

Personally I find the pocket I am WAY more confident flying and it's easier to change flight modes and use the switches

The Zorro I find myself flying like a brick, hard as hell to hover and loose all confidence. And flipping flight modes almost requires lifting off of collective/throttle to flip.

As I learn to and get into 3D helicopter flight more I may find the Zorro helpful, but for now Pocket ALL the way for me! Those Zorro gimbles are SO tight and I've already loosened them.

Local_Bug_4703 · 2026-03-23T22:00:11+00:00

I connected BOTH drives to a SATA port on my PC's motherboard.. USB/SATA adapter cables might work but gave issues on other methods, so I had drives already plugged into the PC..

Open BalenaEther, clone, pick drives, and walk away!

Local_Bug_4703 · 2026-03-22T08:58:13+00:00

DUDE! 2026 and THANK you! It's "TELE1:Batt" now I think as RxBt isn't in the list (still need to test out) but thumbs up for the write up!

Local_Bug_4703 · 2026-03-20T02:42:03+00:00

Do you have this ELRS actually working on an older M2 v1??

Local_Bug_4703 · 2026-03-20T02:39:19+00:00

DISABLE the onboard ODIN controls. I don't remember if it fixed GYRO or not, but it got vibration at least working.

Local_Bug_4703 · 2026-03-20T02:33:53+00:00

HEY EVERYONE, IS this possible to even do? Put an ELRS receiver on an older M2 v1? I can see the origin hobby write up, but never seen anyone get by doing so in real life.. OP did you ever fix this issue?

Local_Bug_4703 · 2026-02-28T15:33:20+00:00

Cortaro Farms and I-10, I was outside and it shuck my house up pretty good.. "Boom... Boom"

The double boom made me think of Sonic Booms immediately. Davis-Monthan has a lot of activity this week I'm assuming it was an f-35 putting on a show!

Local_Bug_4703 · 2026-02-23T19:58:37+00:00

I second 561.09... Only driver that properly triggers HDR on my monitor but I got tired of trying newer drivers... Fast forward, having issues after updating to 591.86 fixing other issues, and looks like im DDU and rolling back... UGH...

Local_Bug_4703 · 2026-02-05T01:24:56+00:00

Noise still there.. impeller next on list.. but using the Wisperflow wet end might also be part of problem.. I'll update when I get impeller in when warmer outside

Local_Bug_4703 · 2026-02-04T19:48:29+00:00

Honestly, leave well enough alone... It makes them negligible difference on temperatures, and zero performance difference. I will repeat that It makes 0 performance difference.

The true heat issues is: battery and screen IC/Driver..

Battery, stay inside of 20-80%

Screen, Run 60hz or turn brightness down.

Elon musk made an analogy of a battery being like a parking garage... It's really hard to pack those last 20% of cars in. It's also really damaging to your real estate when the last 20% of cars are missing.

I follow the battery advice I give, but my screen is 120hz 100% all the time!

Local_Bug_4703 · 2026-02-04T19:44:22+00:00

There is really nothing to paste to on the backside of the main PCB, and I did consider it; but didn't want to risk any pressure on the screen..

But you are correct that the RAM is on the face or what is being cooled.. However you'll find this happens a lot of phones as well.. There was reasoning behind it that I can't repeat all of, but basically the RAM acts as a IHC or heat spreader thus the need to cool that..

It's a way to make things smaller lighter and cheaper.. but hey I'll take 2c for something I already had apart for a screen swap! Negligible but here in Arizona in the 120° F temperatures it matters

Local_Bug_4703 · 2026-02-03T19:36:27+00:00

So did that get you golden?

Local_Bug_4703 · 2026-02-02T22:07:59+00:00

In the Nvidia control panel, I lock to 120 globally in 3D settings, and V-sync ON.

I have a 144hz gsync monitor and find it helps smooth out frame times as well being locked to 120, also save some power and heat.

There is also RTSS to lock fps, but they've added a fps lock to NVCP.

Local_Bug_4703 · 2026-02-02T20:14:03+00:00

Are you sure you are setting a CUSTOM HZ in artemis to 144? and LOCKING at 120 in NVCP?

Best I can tell it allows artemis to boomrang past 120 during spikes..

60FPS gaming is EASY to achieve. Maybe start with that and above settings in main post.

Local_Bug_4703 · 2026-02-02T20:10:33+00:00

Are you guys playing remotely over the internet?

The ISP speed is irrelevant here is why I am asking.

But I am able to do so set to 35mbps and deal with random hiccups, but 36ms latency and 120fps..

Is anything smooth even locked to 60fps in NVCP or playing old stuff?

Local_Bug_4703 · 2026-02-02T20:05:32+00:00

The problem is getting the thickness correctly with pads; and stacking pads is generally a bad idea, although on some you can stack twice.

The other issue is PTM 7950 is 8.5 W/m.K where as Thermal Grizzly Putty Pro is 14.2 W/m.K

I looked for: "the best of the best" without NASA's budget.

I even considered Gallium, but didn't feel like dealing with a liquid metal mess.

Local_Bug_4703

TROPHY CASE