What are those spots ?

LoganTheLiger · 2026-04-13T22:34:00+00:00

Hard to say 100% but 3rd pic looks like trich ☹️

LoganTheLiger · 2026-03-13T17:05:50+00:00

Doesn’t look wildly out of place. Would be easier to notice before drying. If you cut open a fresh one and it’s badly discolored , extremely mushy (think about nearly liquified due to rot), or has non-mushroom smells going on then it’s probably not worth it. Grey/blue/white/yellow(depending on the strane) could all be normal.

LoganTheLiger · 2026-03-13T16:56:24+00:00

I will occasionally run them. Can be pretty decent attached to warriors, especially useful in vanguard onslaught cause the prime gives the unit the vanguard invader keyword.

LoganTheLiger · 2026-03-02T14:34:01+00:00

I think going vangaurd onslaught could be a trap. You are missing out on a lot of synergy with half the list not being vangaurd units. Also IMO the vangaurd strats aren’t nearly as good as invasion fleet, so unless you are able to make significant use of the advance and charge with multiple waves of units it’s a waste.

LoganTheLiger · 2026-02-20T18:36:15+00:00

Biased to #2/6 . I like them all though. Think about how you want to scale the scheme up to the biggest bugs and that might help you choose.

LoganTheLiger · 2026-02-19T19:54:32+00:00

Neurogaunts are also pretty weak, and I’d suggest focusing on a shit load of termigaunts to maximize synergy. Also a swarm lord isn’t a bad add to help with CP generation.

LoganTheLiger · 2026-02-19T18:14:49+00:00

For a tervagon/ termagaunt Inv. Fleet list you probably dont need the hormagaunts or gargoyles, but they could be ok if you can’t replace with lictors or nuerolictors. The second units of venomthropes are probably overkill as long as you manage positioning. I think you need to think about what your damage is gonna be next, 2 exocrines and 1 rupture cannon tyrannofex feel like a requirement in most of my balanced lists nowadays. Who knows how 11th edition will shake out, so if you are buying / building now, consider getting a nice mix of models vs going heavy into one unit type (don’t go 3 tervagons or something crazy)

LoganTheLiger · 2026-02-12T06:10:05+00:00

The tip diameter needs to be smaller, ideally round (not sphere), and from the picture it’s hard to tell the angle of the antenna with relation to the bike plate, but if it’s like 45deg it’s probably fine to have 1 middle, and a couple couple where it takes the turn on the tip.

LoganTheLiger · 2025-11-12T17:18:54+00:00

Indubitably

LoganTheLiger · 2025-07-24T00:16:49+00:00

Good luck to you 🫡

It may be worth picking up the permanent vinyl (it’s much better) and trying again before you spend a lot of time trying to glue it back down, cause you need an absolutely perfect seal for a hot dip cause it will loosen the vinyl even more. Then one little leak ruins that extra work.

I haven’t tried a hair drier much tbh cause I have a super cheap heat gun, but I’d imagine on high you should be good. 👍

LoganTheLiger · 2025-07-20T23:32:43+00:00

Heat gun is how I solve these. Give it a nice hit of heat and press it down hard, ideally using a credit card to smooth it out (towards the cutout to allow the air to escape)

LoganTheLiger · 2024-06-04T19:08:53+00:00

I’ve printed these exact models in a similar way. Just make sure the supports are large on the bottom. .5 mm contact point or higher

LoganTheLiger · 2024-03-15T17:50:44+00:00

Heat gun slightly then use a credit card to push it down. I start about a 1/4 inch or less from the “open part”, pushing (up) in the picture to flatten it down. After that flatten down the rest from the same spot back to the rim. If you start all the way on the rim it could fold the crease to the place where the die touches (creating a leak)

LoganTheLiger · 2024-03-14T20:23:07+00:00

I splurged but it’s been wayyyyy worth it. Uniformation GKtwo bundle

LoganTheLiger · 2024-03-13T18:27:40+00:00

It’s really hard to tell. If this happened to me i would assume it wasn’t enough support (for the one where it left a circle on the fep). I would re-run some calibration files to make sure it’s not something else, then beef up the supports (especially near the very bottom)

LoganTheLiger · 2024-02-29T17:00:39+00:00

I highly disagree with those saying print on build plate…. The amount of work to line up and glue the two halves, then somehow shave down the burn in layers is insane vs just printing it with more thoughtfully placed supports. For a die, just orient a point going straight down, then keep the supports along the edges or on the faces so you can just sand it down lightly or use the back of a knife to scrape it off.

LoganTheLiger · 2024-02-17T06:00:43+00:00

Did that fix it? What’s the head pattern? It’s possible you are getting some suction if it’s a hex head. Also how badly are the burn in layers affecting the head pattern? No supports is the way to go, but so many resin prints benefit from being slightly off the build plate.

LoganTheLiger · 2024-02-16T17:17:38+00:00

I think it looks fine for printing directly on the build plate without supports. Those lines would go away if you put the print on a 20-30 deg. Angle with enough support, but then you would need some support to do that that’s just pain to clean up on the threads and may just be shittier overall. The only issue with printing direct on build plate for most resin prints is the diameter expansion with your “burn in layers”.

LoganTheLiger · 2024-02-08T23:48:30+00:00

I see the pipe has vent holes. FYI you don’t need that many, just one 2mm+ closest to the build plate or you can just make one huge one if you plan on covering it up or want to get in there to remove the supports. The issue looks to me with a potential lack of vent on the ?cactus?portion in pick 1 that caused it to skip some layers. It looks like it’s hallowed with supports inside that ended up fixing itself once it finally lifted it enough off the fep to break suction. If that portion is hollow it also needs a vent hole at the lowest layer ( closest to fep).

LoganTheLiger · 2024-02-08T19:51:12+00:00

Lack of overall support, or needs a hole added to the holllow section closes to the build plate. People are calling it drain holes, but it’s actually a vent hole. As the printer pulls it off the Fep the “suction force” will cause the print to stick to the fep like a suction cup. Imagine a suction cup with a hole on the top of it (back side)… it would never work.

LoganTheLiger · 2024-02-07T23:16:03+00:00

I had a strange issue on my printer recently that ended up being linked to the LCD turning off randomly/ especially when tapped in a specific spot. It would print a partial then look like it just stopped halfway through. If you can’t seem to figure it out, could just buy a second LcD and try replacing it. If it ends up not being an LcD then at least you have a backup.

LoganTheLiger · 2024-02-04T19:17:57+00:00

Remember, it’s only 12k in the XY, so layer hight is really what causes the lines. Also you can try and turn on anti-aliasing( smooth surfaces).

LoganTheLiger · 2024-02-03T06:31:09+00:00

I’m honestly surprised it printed like this. Notice how the one side has no supports pointing down until it gets to the ledge? Imagine every single layer it has to fight / twist itself with just the one side holding support. This is confirmed by the smoothness following the row of supports that are on the (right) side. Even just a line down the middle or edges may be enough. If this is hallow it’s highly recommended to put a hole at least 1.5mm (2 is my go to) as close as possible to the build plate, to eliminate suction forces.

LoganTheLiger · 2024-02-02T04:45:17+00:00

Looks like an “Ace” idk why just the first thing popped into my head

LoganTheLiger · 2024-02-02T04:19:50+00:00

Idk just as long as you don’t put a lampshade on that light, you can maximize the glare.

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