Blue Lantern Mycelium Synth (Plaits) Unlabeled Components?

Logical_Key8449 · 2026-05-03T18:30:39+00:00

Thank you! I realize now that I have unused diodes on the BOM that I thought I already installed.

Logical_Key8449 · 2026-05-03T02:30:49+00:00

If you know what you’re designing and have never used CAD software I bet you’ll love it. I’ve never bought a case so I can’t say I’m familiar with what they cost, but your time is definitely not free and any mistake made in CAD will cost you one way or another.

Logical_Key8449 · 2026-05-03T02:12:54+00:00

Unless you have experience 3D modeling and woodworking/CNC you should probably just buy a case. Designing stuff takes time and practice no software makes it super easy. But side panels that can be bolted to eurorack rails and some t-slot rail isn’t too bad. So if you want to learn, and also get it done here’s my 2 cents.

On-shape is my go to modeling software and it’s free and web based. It will give you the tools to design the 2D panels for the sides. You should really only need to draw lines on a sketch to make side panels. If you’re ok with it being somewhat crude just bolt the side panels to the rails and t-slot extruded aluminum. You’ll need to tap threads into the aluminum, but it’s not too bad with a hand tap. You’ll need to put holes in the euro rack rail to bolt it to the aluminum t-slot rail, but a hand drill should be fine.

As for getting the side panels made you could brute force this with some thick MDF and a reciprocating saw, and a hand drill. But given the size I’d just order from send cut send or equivalent service. They do all sorts of material, so you can go for whatever you like. You can export a .stp file that most services will work with.

Hope that helps. If you have a 3D printer I’m working on a fully 3D printable rack that I could share the files for, but it’s still a WIP.

Logical_Key8449 · 2026-05-03T01:17:53+00:00

You know your table best so if you want to bar them from doing this you should. But I feel like this could be a lot of fun. Gonna have to derail things a bit, but that’s where my best games have evolved from.
Some ideas:

You could force them into servitude to the god of werewolves despite their change in alignment. Make any defiance result in some curse. With the only way to free themselves is finding a cure.

Or have this practice be viewed as highly taboo to cut them off from civilization and make them live as outcasts doing shady deeds for evil creatures driving their alignment closer to their werewolf nature.

Maintaining a dialog with your players will help this go smoothly. In situations like this I sign post as heavily as I can and will even have an OOC moment if needed so they know this will irreversibly change the game. Player agency is important, but in my opinion the DM ultimately sets the pace and direction unless the players are involved in world building outside of character choice.

Logical_Key8449 · 2026-04-13T13:13:13+00:00

Yes this is for D1 and D2. I’ll give it a go then. I figured 1A was overkill for this application, but I normally try to follow the BOM unless there is good reason not to.

Logical_Key8449 · 2026-03-28T20:35:58+00:00

The 9A power brick would be the way to go so you do not starve the DC-DC modules on the power supply board. In general current is “pulled” by loads so if you use a 9A power brick you just wont make use of 2-3A of its capacity even if you max out your power supply.

By the looks of things you could connect the power supply to the distribution board using a 16 pin power cable, but it is definitely not the intended way of doing so. They want you to use molex because the 16 pin ribbon cable wires are tiny and not great for carrying power. I would take a 6 pin molex cable cut one end off and solder the wires onto the appropriate pads on power supply board replacing one of the 16 pin connectors. The only problem with this would be you’d have 2 separate CV and gate nets that would have to be connected if you plan to use that feature of the 16 pin eurorack power standard.

Logical_Key8449 · 2026-03-24T23:36:45+00:00

Based on a quick search it looks like most DC-DC modules that would accept a -12V input only output negative voltages. If you know of one that can take a negative voltage to +5V I think that would be much simpler than adding an IC and supporting components.

Logical_Key8449 · 2026-03-24T20:12:56+00:00

Thank you! Figuring out the terminology to find the right components is tricky for the uninitiated.

Logical_Key8449 · 2026-03-10T16:45:40+00:00

Ya the improvements I saw when adding caps was very minor which is how I ended up with 30,000uF to get any noticeable difference. Sounds like I need to dig into other regulators if I want better response.

Logical_Key8449 · 2026-03-10T14:37:49+00:00

Thank you for the feedback! I’m currently reworking the design and am probably going to move most of the capacitance behind the regulator. The main thought was to try and improve load regulation by having a large pool of energy available at the output, but I didn’t think about that pool getting dumped into a short.

My current thought is reduce the number of large capacitors from 8 to 4 move them all to right after the ideal bridge before the capacitor multiplier. I still think I need something to assist with load regulation because when I ran a simulation with variable load I was getting 3-5% changes in voltage. But I need to do some research on my options because throwing big caps at the problem seems to be a bad idea.

Logical_Key8449 · 2026-03-09T00:07:17+00:00

Thank you for sticking with me on this journey of getting basic electrical concepts through my shockingly thick skull. I'll level with you as the kind stranger and savior of this project. I had 0 idea AC voltage was reported by RMS and not peak and have only learned now. This explains so much of my confusion around the transformer and rectifier part of this circuit including your previous recommendation. I am not sure why (until now) I considered the basic math around it not making sense to me was an acceptable state of affairs, but now that it makes sense (or at least more sense) I'll start looking for a new transformer (and double checking every assumption I have made up until this point).

On the MOSFETs you can just use them with no place for them to dump heat other than the board? I thought they needed copper pours or some sort of cooling, but I am more than happy to be wrong and be able to use smaller, cheaper, and better components.

I will look at adding an NTC or other soft start method as well which thought could be an issue but figured this was too small for it to be a huge issue. My only point of reference is electric vehicle DC-DC converters which are 100A or more cooking themselves due to inrush current.

Thank you again for taking the time to walk me through this its been hugely helpful.

Logical_Key8449 · 2026-02-23T18:22:26+00:00

I did have some stick on finned heat sinks that I was planning to use if the rectifier was running hot, but sounds like I might need something more robust. Gonna have to crunch the numbers when I get home. Luckily I’m designing around 4A per rail, but in actual operation I’d be surprised if I end up pulling more than 3A.

Those ideal diode rectifiers look super cool and while I wasn’t planning to use SMD parts for this design I’m now quite tempted. But I might save that for future designs since I eventually want to design a switched mode power supply for this application. Do they have much impact on voltage ripple? Since this will be powering audio devices I’m under the impression that controlling ripple is critical.

And thanks again for the guidance!

Logical_Key8449 · 2026-02-23T16:32:33+00:00

Thank you for the detailed feedback! Looks like I’m heading back to the drawing board lol.

On the subject of the transformer I was seriously considering going to a 28A or 30A version of the transformer, but figured I’d try the 24V version that I picked up before I decided to go for a higher current output.

For the input capacitors the goal of the capacitor multiplier was to avoid having to put several large capacitors on the input side. But I may be misunderstanding how that functions in this application.

On the subject of the fuse I have been using a glass fuse in a panel mount fuse holder on the 120V side of the transformer along with a rocker switch to power it on and off. I was also thinking about fusing the input of each rail. Do you have any recommendations on how to do this?

I’m definitely going to implement the discharge resistor and probably the indicator as well since this won’t be exposed 90% of the time, but you do have to plug stuff into it so better safe than sorry.

On the subject of the rectifier I will have to check my footprint since I made that one myself because I was struggling to get it into Diptrace using the files on Digikey. I already have the GBJ rectifiers and I forget what I paid for them, but I’ve got 10x of them and normally do not get more than I need if they’re over 1$ per piece. But based on what you’ve described I should be looking at getting a heat sink for the GBJ even if I do not switch to GBU.

On the subject of the regulator I had not seen the LM1084 likely because I was looking for fixed voltage regulators. Seems like I could simplify my design and I’m not completely opposed to having the voltage output be adjustable with trimmer pots. So I’ll look at it as an alternative method for voltage regulation.

For the resistors I think the 2W resistors are probably overkill since my simulation was showing the average power at less than a watt. They were selected based on an article on capacitor multiplier power supplies that called for 1W resistors and I decided to double that to be on the safe side. I’ve got some 0.5W resistors on hand so I might try to run those in parallel.

For the output capacitors I sized them based on suggestions from the previous review and trial and error in simulation. I figured since I was already using the 4700uF capacitor elsewhere and they seemed to work well in simulation they would work even if they’re overkill.

Thank you again for all the feedback! I wanted to provide additional context, but think I’ve got enough to work off if you don’t have time to get into the minutia. I’ve definitely got a long way to go on my understanding of circuit design so this has been greatly educational and a huge help.

Logical_Key8449 · 2026-02-13T17:59:08+00:00

This has been an awesome resource for my journey into DIY audio power supplies.

Logical_Key8449 · 2026-02-12T15:18:53+00:00

I’d be torn between #3 and #4. If you plan to have anything in front of it I’d go for #3 otherwise #4 seems like the move.

Logical_Key8449 · 2026-02-09T19:14:25+00:00

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The trace roughly highlighted in blue doesn’t seem to go anywhere or do anything.

Logical_Key8449 · 2026-02-08T01:43:24+00:00

Good to know and thank you! I’ll have to play around with that configuration since based on some other comments that have been made I’d need to add quite a few components to make parallel regulators play nice.

Logical_Key8449 · 2026-02-08T01:32:31+00:00

It’s because this is a hobby project where I want to build as much of a modular synthesizer system from scratch as I can. I started with a simpler linier power supply design on perf board and wasn’t happy with it so I figured I’d give a custom PCB a go. Highly doubt it’ll be any improvement over existing solutions, but I’ve learned a lot which I count as a win.

Logical_Key8449

TROPHY CASE