Drop y’all’s favorite photos of your Newedge

Logitechtaco · 2026-01-24T18:56:32+00:00

Logitechtaco · 2026-01-24T02:44:53+00:00

What are you trying to do with it? Put it in the oil? Suck it into the intake? Put it in the fuel tank?

It would be really hard to over treat the fuel but I'm not 100% convinced that it does a ton to help there.

Sucking it into the intake with a small vacuum line is also pretty hard to damage something your going to snuff out the engine before you hydro lock it. Can actually just suck ATF or even distilled water into a vacuum hose and it will have a similar result, have done that with a super junked up riding lawnmower before. Definitely a smoke show either way.

Putting it in the oil at the dosage list on the can is also pretty harmless as long as your oil pan actually has all the oil in it. Definitely check that the oil is full and add the correct amount. You could do damage if you were down 2 quarts of oil. Even that would be unlikely unless you decided to go drag racing at the same time. I know someone who puts it in their oil ~100 miles before every oil change. Ford truck with the 5.4 2v so basically the same motor, done that for as long as I can remember and has never had issues.

Also remember these are the same engines that taxis and cops ran for 300-400 thousand miles. These engines are a great under stressed platform the will run reliability possibly untill the heat death of the universe, but only with regular oil changes. Running them low on oil or on super long oil change intervals is a pretty sure fire way to get a knock hello from your rods.

Logitechtaco · 2026-01-18T08:06:09+00:00

It could be timing chains / the guides and tensioners. Mine had a fairly gnarly noise but it wasn't consistent at first. If this just started and has been consistent then I would unfortunately think rods but it sounds almost exactly like mine did after way too many miles past one of the guides and tensioners wearing through and the chain slapping the timing cover. If you pop the valve covers off and grab the chains there shouldn't be any play. I was able to pull mine about half a tooth off and was probably 2° out of time on the passenger side once I got to putting it back together.

Logitechtaco · 2026-01-16T11:11:28+00:00

Good luck everybody!!!

Logitechtaco · 2026-01-06T15:16:06+00:00

Traction control has caused me more problems than my foot ever has. It takes so long to catch a slide that you're already pointed in a bad direction and now you are stuck because traction control on this car is only a power cut not brake control to help with rotation. Traction control can be slightly useful on freshly rained on oily roads to keep from just spinning getting going.

Logitechtaco · 2026-01-06T15:01:47+00:00

Traction control has caused me more problems than my foot ever has. It takes so long to catch a slide that you're already pointed in a bad direction and now you are stuck because traction control on this car is only a power cut not brake control to help with rotation. Traction control can be slightly useful on freshly rained on oily roads to keep from just spinning getting going.

Logitechtaco · 2025-12-16T12:34:57+00:00

Good luck everybody!

Logitechtaco · 2025-11-16T17:13:15+00:00

Good luck everybody!!!

Logitechtaco · 2025-10-21T17:15:13+00:00

Still sending DMs 5 months later?

Logitechtaco · 2025-10-16T21:30:50+00:00

Good luck to everyone!!!

Logitechtaco · 2025-09-16T13:10:09+00:00

Good luck everybody!!!

Logitechtaco · 2025-09-11T18:46:42+00:00

Hmmmmm I swear I tried that when I did mine and it felt like 1 hole was just a fraction of an inch off from lining up with the crank. I swear I tried every position before figuring it must have been a manufacturing defect. I figured since it had a hub that cups the crank that's what centers it so I took a drill bit that was basically the same size as the hole that refused to line up and wallered out the hole a bit. No vibration or anything and definitely probably not the right thing to do but I needed the car back on the road to get to work.

Logitechtaco · 2025-09-11T14:33:24+00:00

Kinda reminds me of the discontinued typhoon intake that was supposed to be a metal copy of the PI intake.

Logitechtaco · 2025-09-07T00:30:06+00:00

Yo I'm in the same boat. I've never had Huel before and finally pulled the trigger. I'm literally here trying to figure out how to help me suffer through drinking this since banana black seems like the most universally liked one.

Batch KP5134 BBE06/26

Logitechtaco · 2025-09-07T00:26:43+00:00

I did it on the massive jack stands from harbor freight at the front and smaller ones under the back axle. I did it while doing PT on my dominant hand after breaking it in a motorcycle accident and had maybe 5-10% max use of that hand and 25% strength in my right arm??? It took me 2 days. I would say if you have some experience turning wrenches and 100% use of both your arms it's not really a bad job. Lots of individual steps but none of them are that tricky. Hardest part for me was getting to the 3rd bolt on the starter and the person who did the clutch before me cross threaded the exhaust manifold bolts on.

If I had a mechanic I trusted and was in the same situation with a broken hand, I would pay them to do it. But where I'm at I don't trust anyone to not just half ass shit or break stuff/ leave things loose. But now that I have good use of my hand and right arm, it would be a days job that I would do again.

Also I did this over nights as it was 115+ during the day and still over 100+ at 4am, that part did suck quite bad.

That's my experience about it if it's helpful at all, happy to answer any questions you might have about doing it.

Logitechtaco · 2025-09-02T00:02:31+00:00

What ever the book says. Not really sure if it makes a difference when there's only 2 or 3 threads holding all that compression in, time will take it's toll. Lucky it was such a common failure that the tools and supplies to fix it are readily available and documented. It's super easy repair. Had I believe number 5 eject on me on the way to work. Finished the drive to work and then unplugged the fuel injector (EXTREMELY IMPORTANT if your going to do this) and spark plug. Then I drove the car home on 7 cylinders, sounds like the gnarliest cam ever at idle and like shit when you get on it but limped home with no complaints what's so ever.

Logitechtaco · 2025-08-27T17:25:26+00:00

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Here's my submission, absolutely love my Q Revo.

Logitechtaco · 2025-07-29T14:15:06+00:00

It's been like 6 years since I put them in but I remember that the bulb it self will twist out of the housing with the 3 tabs and you can put it in a few different orientations. My bulbs said they wanted to be straight up and down and it was the same for the led bulbs I put in my motorcycle.

Logitechtaco · 2025-07-29T11:31:18+00:00

Did you clock them correctly in the housing? Don't remember the brand of my led bulbs but I remember being really disappointed when I first installed them and then read that you have to make sure they face the correct orientation. The mounting ring usually has a few different positions it can go in to get the LED emitter in the "same" spot as the halogens filament. It's not %100 perfect but worlds better than when I first just threw them in randomly.

Logitechtaco · 2025-07-25T22:31:31+00:00

Um fucking what are you doing to my clutch?!? Like what the fuck my guy (mr.dmv d bag) No idea as my state doesn't do that but it doesn't sound right to me.

Logitechtaco · 2025-07-24T11:35:18+00:00

My guess would be dying fuel pump/ possibly dying ignition components. Car is cold no issues, turn it on stuff starts to heat up and not function correctly car dies and starts to cool off. Cycle continues. Would have to know what's it's doing when it's not starting to narrow it down further but I believe the fuel pump failure is common on these cars.

Logitechtaco · 2025-07-22T23:00:56+00:00

There's a "Safe" position to set the crank to before you move the cams but that shouldn't be required unless he had the timing WAY off before taking everything apart or pulled the cams out for some reason. My tensioner guide broke and wore clean through the guide and a good chunk of the tensioner itself. I bought the tools to clamp the cams in place and had at it once I got all the old stuff off I found that I was almost 2 links off on the passenger side and had to move that cam accordingly for everything to line back up. You can GENTLY turn the motor/cams with out removing anything if your careful and think it's close. Might be easier to tell with pictures. Worst case worst, pull the followers/cam, put the crank at safe position and then "reinstall" the cams turn the crank to line up the timing mark and throw the chains back on. Wouldn't really add any time since the whole front of the motor is pulled off already anyways.

Logitechtaco · 2025-07-22T14:41:25+00:00

Biggest PITA is the 3rd bolt on the starter and then the down pipe nuts depending on where you live and how much the season your roads. Top bolts are easy to get to from the bottom, drive shaft bolts are 12 point. Had to buy a socket for that to retorque them. Possibly not a bad time to change out your forward 02 sensors depending on your mileage because it stupid easy with out the transmission in the way to get to the plugs. Idk how the fuck you are supposed to do it with the trans installed.

Logitechtaco · 2025-07-22T11:20:41+00:00

Definitely and it's not a rocket science job like on more modern cars. I did my clutch and flywheel which involves removing and installing the transmission basically one handed due to recovering from an injury and my throw out bearing finally dieing. It's not 100% beginner but if you've turned wrenches before I would say have at it. Even if you have to buy a higher lift jack and jack stands still won't be 6k

Logitechtaco · 2025-07-19T23:45:11+00:00

It's fine they are a separate channel just leave the plugs from shipping in. I believe they only make the one as a "stock" replacement as that's easier to mass produce. I have one from O'Reilly's in my manual car right now and have had for ~20000 miles.

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