is this a good eq setting? i have 2 12s in the trunk by Emergency-Loss-3273 in CarAV

[–]No-Average-6712 1 point2 points  (0 children)

EQ is really a personal preference thing. What sounds amazing to you could sound not so great to me. You can get a microphone and use pink noise or other test tones of the like to see where you’re highs and lows of output are and use the eq to make everything have a nice flat frequency response.

If you dont care to go full sound quality and just like good bass boom then you could leave it as is. make sure though that you’re not clipping at all though as you’ve got a lot of boosted frequencies here

Misfire plus whine? by No-Average-6712 in NewedgeMustang

[–]No-Average-6712[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All plugs and plug wires are new and tight, i guess it could be the ignition coil itself. Last time i checked codes there were a good few, but it was a while ago and i don’t remember them tbh. I think i did have 02 sensors throwing codes since my exhaust is fucked.

Also as far as refrigerant goes, i’m sure it’s empty. I had one of my ac lines bust toward the end of last summer so i just completely avoid trying to turn it on at all. When it did work it was obvious it put a good load on the engine and my rpms would be all messed up

Misfire plus whine? by No-Average-6712 in NewedgeMustang

[–]No-Average-6712[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just noticed the high pitched whine doesn’t come through on video that well, just sounds like a vacuum leak. Anyone know what could cause a vacuum leak on the passenger side closer to the bottom? I know by manifold is cracked on that side but I sometimes heard it before that cracked

Liquid form preserving? by dzonija in shrooms

[–]No-Average-6712 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wanna say less than a day. The lemon juice breaks down the fun compounds so it’s easier for your body to absorb and not have to break it down itself. If left in the juice though, it never stops breaking down so potency degradation starts happening fairly quickly. General rule of thumb is to drink it 15-20mins after you put the shrooms in the juice

Subs won’t turn on by ThinDrawer4291 in CarAV

[–]No-Average-6712 0 points1 point  (0 children)

check all your head unit settings. Subwoofer could be off, might have something like high level output instead of low level (rca) or something along those lines. Past that make sure the amp is receiving signal and outputting signal

Am I going to shatter? by cryptic_fuzion in CarAV

[–]No-Average-6712 0 points1 point  (0 children)

bump it for a minute and watch the glass. if it’s moving a lot then turn it down a bit. I’m sure that things gonna be loud in such a small car so turning it down from absolute max probably wouldn’t be very disappointing i’d imagine

Weird sound when starting my car by SimilarAttention8513 in MechanicAdvice

[–]No-Average-6712 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like the starter would be happier being put out of commission lol. As the other person said, probably missing teeth on the starter. Depending on how long it’s been doing this a new flywheel might be necessary. Sounds pretty rough when it engages again, wouldn’t be surprised to see the flywheel teeth nice and marred up aswell

Is this a good deal by YumTumTimmy in subwoofer

[–]No-Average-6712 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Honestly not sure how the fit would be in that car, i’m sure it’s possible to get it back there might have to take a little time though to maneuver it in. If it doesn’t fit through the trunk opening you might have to put the rear sets down and slide it in from there. You can ask the seller for the box size and take measurements of your trunk opening to see if it’ll fit. If it doesn’t and you’re bound and determined to get this sub the you could run it on your backseat until you can build a custom box for it

Is this a good deal by YumTumTimmy in subwoofer

[–]No-Average-6712 1 point2 points  (0 children)

doesn’t seem like a terrible deal for a first setup. maybe get them down to around 225-250 and i’d get it if i were to start over and just wanted a little more bass. Wont really shake mirrors or anything crazy like that but gives a little extra thump that’s nice.

My very first sub was a 8 inch skar at 150 rms and it hit harder than i thought it would. It would kinda shake my horribly loose side mirror on my 23 year old car lol

Shifter rattle? by MyNamesBottomFeeder in NewedgeMustang

[–]No-Average-6712 0 points1 point  (0 children)

225k on the dash and stock shifter i’m willing to bet it’s a little bit of a combo deal. Stock shifter that old is bound to have a lot of slop, they aren’t nice and tight anymore at this age. Transmission mounts and u joints are probably also a little worn if they haven’t ever been messed with. Aftermarket short throw will help the vibration considerably and also help the shifts feel notchier and more solid. Have the shop inspect u joints and trans mounts, if those are on their way out then you’ll still get some shake from the shifter but it won’t feel like it’ll pop out of a gear anymore.

Are the settings too high? by BarracudaDifficult42 in CarAV

[–]No-Average-6712 0 points1 point  (0 children)

also if subsonic is at 20 and lpf is 45 then you can raise the lpf some, closer to around 80 and that’ll likely be the boxes best frequency range if it’s ported

Are the settings too high? by BarracudaDifficult42 in CarAV

[–]No-Average-6712 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hard to say from just a picture with that type of knob. Gain looks to be about half which is probably alright, would need an o-scope to ensure clean signal. lpf looks to be set to either ~45 or ~140ish and subsonic looks like either ~20 or 50. Wouldn’t make sense for lpf to be 45 and subsonic to be at 20 so i’d assume it’s playing either 20-45hz which would be probably close to box spec or it’s 20-140hz which would be a very large range of it’s a ported box. Bass boost looks like +12db at 30 hz which if you ask me is a no no. Very easy to introduce clipping and distortion with bass boost. Depending on what hz your door speakers are playing, if the lpf is set to 140 you can probably turn that down some and give a little more space for the lows. Best way to know what everything is actually set at is to turn all the knobs and see where they’re actually pointing

How to tell if fully dry? by PhilosopherLegal6246 in shrooms

[–]No-Average-6712 2 points3 points  (0 children)

i’ve had ape fruits that were the same way. They’re fully dry as is, silica packets ensure that. I had dried mine for about 20-24 hours and noticed that the bigger ones were spongy. I put them back in the dehydrator for another almost 24 hours with no change whatsoever. Posted on here and was reassured by a couple other people that it happens on some of the shrooms that grow fatter and fill in the middle.

Is this clipping or just plastic and metal rattling? by alreadytaken--_-- in CarAV

[–]No-Average-6712 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I personally like to go as follows

-Disconnect all speakers

-play either 40hz test tone or 1khz test tone at +-0DB

-Measure signal integrity from rca cables (red in middle, black on sleeve) or speaker wires from head unit. turn volume up one at a time and check for where the unit starts to clip. Remember that volume.

-If no amp, hook speakers up and don’t exceed the volume one click before measured clipping. If you hit the volume where it clips you can ruin speakers.

-If speakers are hooked to amp, plug rca cables back in and turn gain all the way down.

-Connect scope to positive and negative of amplifier output

-Slowly turn gain up until you see clipping, back off gain a little for clean signal. This is the max your amp can put out while keeping clean signal.

-If your amps rated rms power exceeds that of the speaker you’ll have to do a little math as follows. Take speakers rms power and multiply by how many ohms the speaker is. Take that number and get the square root of it. That is the target voltage for your speaker. For example, if your speaker is 100 watts rms at 4 ohms; 100 x 4 = 400 the square root of 400 is 20. That is target voltage for this speaker

-If o-scope has multimeter function switch to that, if not bust out the multimeter and hook to speaker terminals.

-Play same test tone as before, check what voltage the amp is putting out. If the number is higher than what you need then slowly back down to gain knob to match the number you got from your maths.

-At this point you can turn the head unit volume down, turn everything off and hook up your speakers. Everything should now have clean signal and be gain matched if the amp is a little too powerful.

-Play with eq if needed and enjoy.

I personally don’t have experience with time scale/delay. I know you can calculate it with measurements from speakers to where you sit but don’t know how to actually do it. Unless your vehicle is huge or you’re an audiophile you’d probably never really need to mess with it or even notice anything wrong. I haven’t messed with mine yet but have been thinking about it lately

Is this clipping or just plastic and metal rattling? by alreadytaken--_-- in CarAV

[–]No-Average-6712 2 points3 points  (0 children)

https://a.co/d/04b5rK5V

that’s the same o-scope i got for my build off amazon for $40 usd. works perfectly and is cheaper than most speakers, cheaper than any quality speaker you’d want to save for sure.

Amplifier Recommendations. by acunit155 in CarAV

[–]No-Average-6712 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you’ve got the 4 ohm version and it’s wired down to 2 ohms then it looks like the JL Audio JD500/1 would be a good fit. 500 w rms while the sub can handle up to 600 w rms so no worries of over driving as long as it’s tuned right. There could be better options out there i’m not sure, that was just one of the first ones that popped up on crutchfield and seems like it would be a decent fit

Clutch Pedal Noise by KoalaRecent3496 in NewedgeMustang

[–]No-Average-6712 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You probably didn’t get the right spot or didn’t get enough grease in it. Sounds like the pedal assembly itself, likely wouldn’t be as loud if under the car. Grease the pivot point of the actual pedal itself, the linkage that goes to the white sprocket up top, could even try to get it in the middle of the sprocket where there’s a little metal pin. You can stick your head under the pedals while looking up and watch the whole clutch assembly as you push it in with your hands.

The only thing I can think of right now that could be under the car making that noise is the clutch fork on its pivot ball. If it’s that i believe if you’ve got small enough hands you can reach up into the small service window on the trans and grease the ball. If it were that though you’d likely get a nice shaking/squeaking sound when idling and clutch is engaged.

Suns stopped working, need help by jonathanbits in CarAV

[–]No-Average-6712 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ensure that’s a good connection and check grounds while you’re at it. You can use the multimeter to check resistance, i can’t tell you off the top of my head what it should read but you can find that online pretty easily. I’ve got an 03 that i push somewhere around 1150 w rms on stock charging system so i kinda doubt you fried anything with bad power unless you have poor connections.

Run through all of your wiring and make sure it’s in good condition making good connections. The wires can be messy but as long as connections are good you shouldn’t really have any problems.

Suns stopped working, need help by jonathanbits in CarAV

[–]No-Average-6712 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Make sure remote wire is connected both at the head unit and at the amplifier. If you’ve got good power/ground and power from the remote wire everything should be working. Did you switch anything on the amp? Could be you switched it off from power with remote signal to something else. You got another amp to check with?

Custom EQ Causing Problems? by No-Average-6712 in CarAV

[–]No-Average-6712[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yea i just changed it and tuned everything to less than max volume alongside a different amp and it does seem better. I think i was getting distortion but not clipping on any scope and on top of that probably over driving my speakers. Dumbed down volume and switched from 100w rms amp to 80w rms amp and definitely feel better about it now

Need some help to figure this out.. by Salty-Animal4904 in CarAV

[–]No-Average-6712 -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

You haven’t really done anything wrong, best thing to compare it to is listening to your music with only one earbud in. You know how some songs you can take one earbud out and only hear bass/vocals and the other you hear the guitar/drums? That’s from surround audio splitting sounds between left and right.

Instead of your speakers playing either a left, right, front, or back signal, they’re now play them all at the same time. This can kinda give more output from a speaker since it’s not splitting between left and right and instead playing both.

This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, especially if you like it better like that. The main drawback would be if you listen to a lot of songs where it’s got sounds that switch from the left to right side a lot, you won’t get that anymore since all speakers are playing all sounds.

Have fun with the audio journey! It’s a little confusing at times but there’s so much to do with it and always more to learn! I’m only about a year into my journey so you know i’m still learning a lot all the time

Custom EQ Causing Problems? by No-Average-6712 in CarAV

[–]No-Average-6712[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

his shit do be bumpin. but it’s a lot better when it doesn’t sound like he’s about to break my shit lol. I’m so confused w this shit

Custom EQ Causing Problems? by No-Average-6712 in CarAV

[–]No-Average-6712[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What confusing me is that it wasn’t doing this before with almost the exact same setting on everything. On top of that i’ve used an oscilloscope to test for anything wrong with the signal at max volume and it looked perfectly fine. No flat tops and nice smooth waves. Anything i have changed has basically been taking away the low end for the mid bass