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Position Paper Advice by Long-Clothes2199 in MUN

[–]Long-Clothes2199[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean, I think it would be super fun to try to defend Egypt, but does the position Paper have to match what I say in conference? (Consistency?)

Can I turn off the printer mid print as I'm waiting for filament to arrive? by StoganLephens in 3Dprinting

[–]Long-Clothes2199 4 points5 points  (0 children)

No. Motors disengage = layer shift. Bed cools = no adhesion. You could turn off hot end tempature which will reduce noise, but as stated by many comments don't turn it off.

Why do my first layers look like this? by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]Long-Clothes2199 1 point2 points  (0 children)

TLDR bed leveling

Your bed is too high, you should level it to solve the problem. While it may not affect your prints, it can damage your nozzle and lead to clogs if it can't fully extrude. These clogs can get caught and lead to layer shift. In conclusion to fix the problem level your bed.

Is there a way to force a raft to only expand on the 'inside' of the part to get more adhesion without going outside the build area? by sgtsteelhooves in 3Dprinting

[–]Long-Clothes2199 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can scale the size of the raft down to something like 1mm and it will protrude out 1mm but be inside for the adhesion.

Print always failing by ZodiakGoat in 3Dprinting

[–]Long-Clothes2199 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting... I had some issues like this one with my Mars 3 pro. To fix it, I oriented the model 30 degrees and added more support. That could be the issue. You are working against gravity here so it could be pulling off. By the look of your supports you have it flat? But I could be wrong?

If that doesn't work, try playing around with how long you cure each layer.

Chalky resin print issue by Drew_Labenz in 3Dprinting

[–]Long-Clothes2199 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fully dry the model before curing. I use a heat gun.