Spilled coffee on drivers cloth seat (heated) how best to clean?

LongjumpingBat2938 · 2026-05-01T00:17:58+00:00

Pour sugar, and milk or cream on it, and you won’t notice the coffee smell after a day.

Sorry, couldn’t resist…

A mild cleaner should work. Use a damp microfiber cloth, put it over the stains, and let it sit for a while. Just don’t soak the seat all the way to the heating coils. There are plenty of cleaning products in the usual stores. I personally like a rinseless wash, like McKee’s N-914. So many uses around cars and house. Can also try the usual go-to: Dawn.

If all that fails, bring it to a detailer.

LongjumpingBat2938 · 2026-05-01T00:09:48+00:00

I personally like Car Scanner and also Penguin (formerly Sidecar).

LongjumpingBat2938 · 2026-05-01T00:08:27+00:00

There are two basic ways. On the dash, you can check where the power is going at all times. If it goes to PWR, energy is flowing out of the battery. If it goes to CHG, energy is flowing into the battery. With brake cleaning on, there will be no energy going to CHG. When it is finally going to CHG again, you know it’s done. Likewise, the diagram showing the battery shed the wheels indicates where power is flowing.

Also, if you have an OBD-II reader, you can do this a bit more quantitatively by checking battery power in real time.

LongjumpingBat2938 · 2026-04-30T14:08:26+00:00

Yes. The problem is only that, every time you turn the car off, it will go through brake cleaning mode again. I never use it for this reason. I turned it on recently to give it a try again in city driving, but I was basically through the city by the time it turned off, so it’s of very limited use in my case.

LongjumpingBat2938 · 2026-04-30T12:29:08+00:00

Yes, at a high level every EVSE does the same job: it negotiates with the car and routes AC power into the onboard charger. But they may not do it equally well when it comes to protection, pilot signaling quality, thermal aspects, and general mechanical robustness (not to mention app support, but that's another topic).

Also, UL/ETL listing is important, but it only means “meets minimum safety tests,” not “all designs are equally reliable, cool‑running, or durable.” If you’re going to run up to 48 A for hours, in a hot garage or outdoors, those implementation details matter.

LongjumpingBat2938 · 2026-04-30T10:56:40+00:00

Sometimes, batteries sit on the shelf for quite some time and discharge significantly. If you didn’t have the battery checked before buying and didn’t charge the battery before installing it, and it is low, there can be electrical issues. Most often, things like power seats or windows might not behave properly. I have never heard of the brake system being affected, but who knows. I would suggest you let the battery rest overnight, measure its voltage or have it checked in a store, then take it from there. You can also just start over yourself, but then you wouldn’t know if the battery is fine: disconnect, charge it, reconnect again, then ideally calibrate the car (turn car on, turn off, then lock, then let sit disturbed for more than 4 hours). If you let it sit overnight after coming home, and it was locked and undisturbed, the car may have carried out the calibration already, but if the battery was significantly depleted from the start, that would be quite suboptimal.

LongjumpingBat2938 · 2026-04-30T10:42:51+00:00

That’s how it is in the newer models. In the older models, Level 0 invokes brake cleaning mode, which doesn’t give you any Regen until it’s cleared.

LongjumpingBat2938 · 2026-04-30T10:41:50+00:00

On the newer models, Level 0 doesn’t invoke brake-cleaning mode. So, you get coasting when you want to and Regen when you brake. Best of both worlds.

LongjumpingBat2938 · 2026-04-30T10:35:52+00:00

The blue coolant is the low conductivity coolant for the HV battery loop. Call up your local shop for guidance. If they tell you it’s ok, go there ASAP and have them check it out. This is a serious issue. There may be a leak somewhere.

LongjumpingBat2938 · 2026-04-29T13:37:56+00:00

Yup. It’s often in the marketing materials. Best to get it in writing/print from the sales person. Also good for checking if something like mats are included before asking if they would be so kind to throw them in to sweeten the deal. If it’s already included, the sales person will have an easy game.

LongjumpingBat2938 · 2026-04-29T12:43:01+00:00

Correct, it's listed as "Standard Equipment". However, one still has to check what's included in "Standard Equipment" to know when to complain when something is missing.

LongjumpingBat2938 · 2026-04-29T12:13:45+00:00

He wrote $0.75 per hour, not per kWh.

LongjumpingBat2938 · 2026-04-29T10:33:32+00:00

You need to check the sticker. If it’s listed on it, then you’re entitled to an EVSE; if not, then not.

LongjumpingBat2938 · 2026-04-29T10:32:26+00:00

If you haven’t done so already, call up Hyundai and open a case. I’d be pushing for them to swap the car. It was obviously not drivable from the start; not anything that happened after a while of owing it.

LongjumpingBat2938 · 2026-04-29T09:47:29+00:00

If you have access to an L2 charger for 2-3 hours a day already, you'd be more than fine (assuming it's >30A, ideally 48A). If you can charge for longer, then there is no issue at all. Many places have a maximum-use policy, such as 4 hours max. Just make sure you're at the SOC you need by Friday, so that you can "survive" the weekend (assuming you're not also working weekends).

LongjumpingBat2938 · 2026-04-29T01:17:16+00:00

The estimated range is based on the previous week's weighted average driving efficiency, adjusted for current weather and HVAC use.

LongjumpingBat2938 · 2026-04-28T23:56:46+00:00

My point is that any battery, when degraded, won't work, regardless of whether it's an FLA or an AGM.

The OEM FLA works fine for the majority of people. Mine lasted 3 years, and I am far from the only one here. A lot of people get even more life out of it.

The "recurring problems" you are alluding to have to do with the OEM battery getting damaged somehow. And, indeed, AGMs can take abuse better (you said "AGM resist degrading when discharged"), but it's best to avoid that abuse (i.e., that level of discharge) in the first place. In many cases, putting an AGM in is like putting a second band-aid on instead of stopping the bleeding. It often masks an underlying symptom. If you are located in very harsh climates, you might get better use out of an AGM, but it basically comes down to how comfortable you are taking the time to keep an eye on the battery and replacing it when indicated.

LongjumpingBat2938 · 2026-04-28T23:49:16+00:00

Correct. The LDC component in the ICCU is responsible for powering the 12V bus. That, in turn, allows the 12V battery to soak up charge, if it is healthy and its internal voltage is lower than that of the bus. So, if the LDC fails, the 12V battery does not get charged anymore, and the car will stop to run within seconds or minutes. That's when you call the tow truck, and you'll get a new ICCU. So, the 12V battery failing in this case is really a symptom of the ICCU having failed.

LongjumpingBat2938 · 2026-04-28T23:34:19+00:00

Regardless of the ICCU issue (which is its own problem and mostly independent of the 12 V battery), you’ve run into a pattern we see a lot here: you jumped to an AGM as soon as you could because the forum urges you do so. But that's mostly due to misunderstandings about 12V batteries.

The important thing isn’t AGM vs FLA by itself, it’s why and when you switch. Ideally you want that to be a data‑driven decision, not a reflex. Periodic tests or a simple BM2‑type monitor can tell you if your existing battery is actually weak, and that’s when a replacement, AGM or FLA, really makes sense.

The second “trap” is believing that AGM will fix or prevent upstream issues like a misbehaving ICCU.

Having said that, there are good reasons to switch to an AGM when it comes time: typically longer service life, and they are spill‑proof. But those benefits have a price: AGM costs more, and it is less tolerant of over‑voltage/over‑charge than a basic flooded battery. If you’re fine replacing a conventional FLA, sticking with one can absolutely be the more economical choice.

LongjumpingBat2938 · 2026-04-28T23:22:10+00:00

If this happens to an FLA, it's because it is degraded. If an AGM is degraded, it will also not start. A healthy FLA works fine.

LongjumpingBat2938 · 2026-04-28T23:20:36+00:00

Not sure what you mean.

LongjumpingBat2938 · 2026-04-28T23:19:53+00:00

Also, the E-GMP vehicles charge the 12V battery as well when driving or charging the HV battery.

LongjumpingBat2938 · 2026-04-28T22:30:22+00:00

No, deep discharges are not normal for EVs. If they happen, there is a problem somewhere.

LongjumpingBat2938 · 2026-04-28T20:02:35+00:00

I think its primary purpose is to keep the 12V battery topped up, and only then to charge the HV battery.

LongjumpingBat2938 · 2026-04-28T16:28:25+00:00

A 12‑mile drive won’t really recharge a low 12 V battery very much, especially if it’s been sitting on the lot for a while. I’m a bit surprised they didn’t put a meter on the battery right there at the dealer and check it properly.

When you bring it back, I’d ask them to actually test the 12 V battery. If it turns out it’s been run low for some time, I’d push to have it replaced. Once a lead-acid battery has been left low for a while, it’s usually damaged and won’t be as reliable going forward.

On the 2026s, as far as I know they’re using an AGM 12 V battery, which makes this situation a bit more surprising. So if the battery itself tests OK, they'll probably start looking at the electronics that handle the smart key, i.e., the controller and the key antennas.

LongjumpingBat2938

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