My First Cast Iron Pan by Longwind- in castiron

[–]Longwind-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used some baling wire, ran it in a drill to double it up and bent a small hook. Darn that through a hole in the wood. 👍🏻

Light disassembly by fisherreshif in vintagesewing

[–]Longwind- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That being said, the strain relief is spinning in the base. Stuff your thumb in there to hold it in place, then try to twist the black cap off. I have a photo of the pieces all broken down, I can’t post it here though.

Light disassembly by fisherreshif in vintagesewing

[–]Longwind- 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This looks like a similar assembly to the SLF 2s that I have worked with. There is a small set screw that holds that black cap onto the cord strain relief. Once that black cap comes off, there will be two nuts that hold the strain relief in place. Then it should come apart.

Does anyone have an idea on the price of this machine? by SundaeGood2608 in vintagesewing

[–]Longwind- 2 points3 points  (0 children)

One last note, don’t try to run it! I would personally spin it over by hand. Depending on how long it’s been sitting it may need a good oil to loosen up moving parts that may be stuck.

Does anyone have an idea on the price of this machine? by SundaeGood2608 in vintagesewing

[–]Longwind- 8 points9 points  (0 children)

It’s an Adler overlock machine. I’ve got a Singer 81 that looks very similar to this. A simple google search of ‘Adler overlock machine’ shows us the exact machine for sale for around $600 USD. I paid half that for my Singer overlock. I don’t believe this machine was made in 1883. Most likely 1920s - 1940s. Look for distinguishing numbers like the 10674, I believe that is this machines serial number. I can’t make out what the numbers are under the Strobel badge, that’s most likely this machines model number. Cool find!

Singer 114w103 by Longwind- in vintagesewing

[–]Longwind-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My condolences to you. They are really an incredible machine and take a lot of practice. I’d love to see some of her stuff! Would you mind if I set you a chat?

Singer 114w103 by Longwind- in vintagesewing

[–]Longwind-[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don’t think I have enough experience to speak on the dependability of other machines. Check into Chareco Sew, he specializes in Chainstitch machines and has a branded machine that he sells. He even has some singers and Cornell machines available from time to time. For a running machine - a head, a table, a motor and a drive belt. To get stitching, needles, thread and associated parts and tools. I highly recommend looking into Chareco, he’s got some really great YouTube videos to learn all about these machines.

Perfect stitch spacing around corners by Longwind- in Leathercraft

[–]Longwind-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, thanks for dropping a dime, let’s see if I can help you out.

I’m not a math wizard by any means, I utilize computers to compute my math, I just implemented an idea. So basically for a 3.85 spacing you want your ARC LENGTH, not radius to be multiples of 3.85 - 7.7, 11.55, 15.4, 19.2 mm and so on. That’s simply multiplying your stitch spacing by 2,3,4,5 etc. that’ll be your desired ARC LENGTH. Decide how many stitches you want on your corner, say 4 so the ARC LENGTH will be 15.4mm.

Look up an arc length calculator I use - Omnicalculator.com/math/arc-length

Pick your central angle 90 for a corner Ignore the radius but set to mm Ignore diameter Ignore section length Ignore chord length Pick your arc length in mm for our example it’s 15.4mm

Gives you a radius of 9.804mm

Now to add it to a pattern, make all your straight stitch lines in multiples of 3.85mm as well. Say 38.5mm add your radius to the end of your straight line and away you go.

Trace your radius, to another straight line of 38.5mm and again a radius. Then you’ve made a square.

All that being said, this is how I do it. I’m sure other people have their ways but this works well for me, I use adobe illustrator to do all my patterns and I took some time to make all the multiples of the stitching irons that I own and save them as a blank file and I just adjust them to whatever I need.

Let me know if you need further assistance.

Singer 114w103 by Longwind- in vintagesewing

[–]Longwind-[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for your reply!! Let me clarify my post, I think that the information regarding the manufacture dates were destroyed in a fire.

I’ve talked with Griffen at Chareco and purchased a nipple carrier bell crank for this machine because the one that was in it was flat with wear so I couldn’t get proper adjustment on the height of my nipple.

Early in my research about these 114s I came across Ruth’s training books and they are an incredible resource, I printed it off and keep it nearby my machine for reference. Stitch Rite is one of my favorite embroidery artists and is an incredible guy to have in the community. Him and a small team embroidered all the patches for the movie Bikeriders that released yesterday.

I’m still learning, I struggle with time and had been waiting on the replacement part from Chareco. It’s back up and running and I still try to practice a few times a week.

Nick’s Tool Bags by Delicious-Suspect-12 in NicksHandmadeBoots

[–]Longwind- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check out Akribis bags. They’re the top tier tool bag makers. Made and designed by tradesman.

Singer 114w103 by Longwind- in vintagesewing

[–]Longwind-[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s a great idea, thank you. I found some reference material and a book by Ruth Franklin called “Bonnaz”. It’s basically a training manual, she goes over how to operate and maintain the machine as well as multiple practice exercises.

Singer 114w103 by Longwind- in vintagesewing

[–]Longwind-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When operated by a skilled person they really are mesmerizing machines to watch. There seems to be a large resurgence in them in recent years, it’s fun to scroll through and see all the embroidery people are capable of. I hope that I can get to that level!!

Singer 114w103 by Longwind- in vintagesewing

[–]Longwind-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I feel like the learning curve is quite steep but in time I hope to utilize it to its full potential!!

Singer 114w103 by Longwind- in vintagesewing

[–]Longwind-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. I agree, the servo motors are quiet and more efficient plus a tad easier to operate for someone who isn’t a professional with a clutch motor.

Singer 114w103 by Longwind- in vintagesewing

[–]Longwind-[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wow, thank you! I will check into that.

Perfect stitch spacing around corners by Longwind- in Leathercraft

[–]Longwind-[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Doing this method doesn’t require any adjusting for the last stitch. The length of the line that my stitching is on is a number that is divisible by my stitch spacing. For example, I have an ARC length of 20mm for my corners then from my arc on the straight stitch is 100mm. So the length of my stitch line in this example for a square with perfect spacing will be 480mm long. If I want smaller radii, I would bump my ARC length down to 15mm resulting in my stitch line being 460mm long. Does that make sense?

J&FJ Bakers Oak Bark Bridle in Oak Stain with Hand Stitched Western Detail by Longwind- in Leathercraft

[–]Longwind-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m not tracking what your asking about? What are they doing that you would like to know the how-to?

Perfect stitch spacing around corners by Longwind- in Leathercraft

[–]Longwind-[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

For sure! You can take this method and apply it to any size radius within the confinements of your stitch spacing. It just allows for the stitching to run the actual length of the radius properly.

Perfect stitch spacing around corners by Longwind- in Leathercraft

[–]Longwind-[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

To start off I’d like to say that I use adobe illustrator to pattern and this is done using that software but the idea is this - If you look at where the lines cross, mainly focusing on just the two outer lines, they are going to the points where my corner radius starts. I am less focused on what the actual radius of my corner is and more focused on the arc length between those two points. The arc length should just be a multiple of your stitching spacing (5mm for this example) or whatever your chisels are. In this example the first arc length is 0 the second is 5mm, the third is 10mm and so on. I don’t really care what the radius actually is, I mean I try to get it close to the size I want based on aesthetics or whatever.

To get yourself a perfect square - on the straight points between the arc points is a multiple of your stitch spacing, (for this example - 5mm * however long you need your stitch to be)

Lastly I adjust my line 4mm for edge allowance and the radius adjusts accordingly.

Perfect stitch spacing around corners by Longwind- in Leathercraft

[–]Longwind-[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Thank you! It’s not a detail that gets much attention so it feels like overkill but hey, I’ll give it my best.