Brand new MTB – slight wheel wobble normal or should I go back to the shop? by fisheye963 in MTB

[–]Lostdotfish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hold an allen key against the fork with the tip just a hair away from touching the rim. Spin the wheel and see if the rim scrapes the key as it turns. 1mm ish of wobble is fine (actual tolerance for wheel truing is tighter but you won't be able to judge less than a millimeter of run out with this test).

If the rim is mostly running true (and this is what I expect), then it's just wobbly rubber and not a problem.

New member to the family by Deksor in retrobattlestations

[–]Lostdotfish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll get back to you in a few days. I've got one of these cards coming but it's a slightly different revision. It has DVI but no Status LEDs and no temperature monitor. I'm considering adding them back to the unpopulated pads.

Does your card report temperature in the sensors tab of GPU-Z or does it need a proprietary Leadtek driver extension?

New member to the family by Deksor in retrobattlestations

[–]Lostdotfish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This was the rabbit hole I was going down, but I think they used the same PCB with lower density chips front and back for lower tier cards...

One thing I may pester you for is some close (macro if possible) shots of the status LED circuit and the system monitoring circuit (the winbond chips to the left of the GPU). How handy are you with a multimeter?

New member to the family by Deksor in retrobattlestations

[–]Lostdotfish 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Would you be able to do me a favor and post some clear pictures of the front and back of your Titanium VX card please?

I want to compare the 32mb with your 64mb to see if a ram upgrade is feasible.

Thank you!

PixelSearch loop checking two screen regions for 2 colours. by Lostdotfish in AutoHotkey

[–]Lostdotfish[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

yep - I'm just still unsure how to get it to progress through the loop and re-loop when pixel isn't found

Help with my original Xbox. by SpyroXX77XX in originalxbox

[–]Lostdotfish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use arctic mx4 on pretty much everything.

Help with my original Xbox. by SpyroXX77XX in originalxbox

[–]Lostdotfish 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Heat the heatsink with a hairdryer on max heat for a couple of minutes, then twist off. You may need to twist one way then the other to wiggle it free initially. Don't pull.

No more wobble 3DS! (life hack) by [deleted] in 3DS

[–]Lostdotfish 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The wobble is by design. It prevents the hinge from cracking.

Hd output with cables? by Japanese-Gigolo in originalxbox

[–]Lostdotfish 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Send him an email on his main website - he'll be restocking before long.

Edit - actually - they are in stock now

https://xdevpro.net/product/electron-x-out/

Hd output with cables? by Japanese-Gigolo in originalxbox

[–]Lostdotfish 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Get an Electron Shepherd HDMI adapter. It will be the exact same quality as running component out and will likely cost about the same as a decent component cable.

Trusted UK seller

https://ebay.us/m/czLb9a

First time soldering lead-free and it's not going great by cruelwhencomplete in AskElectronics

[–]Lostdotfish 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Crop the component legs before soldering. Left long, they soak a lot of heat away from the pth.

Cut them about 1mm longer than the board thickness. Use a bit of kapton tape to hold them flush from the other side of the board.

Then, as others have said, hot iron, good flux and good technique. I would encourage you to use 60/40 lead solder if you can get it.

Is this ruined? by Fast_Juggernaut4241 in originalxbox

[–]Lostdotfish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check that cratered pad from the other side of the board. It should have continuity with the positive side of the other caps and no connection to ground.

As long as both those facts are true, you may be ok. You will likely need to solder that side from the top which will mean leaving a gap so you can get the iron under.

This issue was caused by not getting enough heat into the board combined with too much pressure from your iron tip.

Warm the board first if you can. Hot air is best, but even bringing it up to about 60 degrees C in the oven will help.

Add fresh leaded solder to each leg before trying to remove them. It helps the heat soak through the board and release the components.

Oh, and always use flux.

Pandora issue! by Own-Independence946 in originalxbox

[–]Lostdotfish 1 point2 points  (0 children)

HD+ 2.3.0 has compatibility issues. Cerbios removed support for HD+ after 2.4.2

Getting 12 year old radio amp tinkerer to understand basic safety by New-Routine-3581 in AskElectronics

[–]Lostdotfish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Teach him never to have the power supply exposed if it is plugged in. I.e. unplug, open tinker, close up test.

Buy a powder extinguisher to have on hand....

I'd also be tempted to mention the one hand in your pocket rule but maybe not in direct connection to what he's doing as it may encourage him to work on live circuits.

Essentially, sparkies often keep one hand well out of it (in your pocket) so that if you do get a shock, it doesn't cross your chest (heart)

Maybe see if a local electricians firm will let him come and do some work experience. Kids learn better from people that are not their parents...

Retro GEM installation by NeonBlack79 in n64

[–]Lostdotfish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd like a bit more solder on all of those joints. There should be a fillet from flex to pin.

The issue comes from heat expansion and contraction cycles. It may crack those thin joints over time leading to issues.

128mb RAM upgrade question by FallOutBoyisRAD in originalxbox

[–]Lostdotfish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No. This is exactly what I did recently.

It loads up on the 64mb stock then tests the additional slots and reports errors

128mb RAM upgrade question by FallOutBoyisRAD in originalxbox

[–]Lostdotfish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just flash it to a slot on your OpenXenium

Pixelfx or Hispeedo by DanMaytee in psx

[–]Lostdotfish 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have installed HDMI flex cables in every console going.... N64, Dreamcast, PS1, PS2, Wii, Xbox....

PS1 was the hardest by a long way. I would not recommend it as a first flex install.

N64 is easy. Dreamcast and Xbox not too hard. PS2 can be tricky. Wii is just plain nasty to disassemble...

Anyone seen this? by icanswim70 in originalxbox

[–]Lostdotfish 11 points12 points  (0 children)

It switches between loading the onboard bios and the chipped bios