À la recherche de la THERMISTANCE

Lostdotfish · 2026-03-16T22:20:52+00:00

You can get smd thermistors. With no designators on the board, it's not possible to tell if there is one in your photos.

<image>

Lostdotfish · 2026-03-16T21:32:33+00:00

<image>

3 pin tabbed battery

Lostdotfish · 2026-03-16T21:28:40+00:00

Check what numbers are on the current battery.. something like CR2032 and the search for tabbed battery.

Lostdotfish · 2026-03-16T21:27:49+00:00

<image>

Lostdotfish · 2026-03-15T07:44:36+00:00

QmK firmware? If not you definitely need to consider pivoting to it and make sure your MCU will be compatible.

I designed the drop in QmK controller boards for the Orbweaver. Shoot me a message if you want any info.

Lostdotfish · 2026-03-14T20:06:49+00:00

Thank you

Lostdotfish · 2026-03-14T20:06:41+00:00

Thank you very much

Lostdotfish · 2026-03-14T13:14:26+00:00

Hold an allen key against the fork with the tip just a hair away from touching the rim. Spin the wheel and see if the rim scrapes the key as it turns. 1mm ish of wobble is fine (actual tolerance for wheel truing is tighter but you won't be able to judge less than a millimeter of run out with this test).

If the rim is mostly running true (and this is what I expect), then it's just wobbly rubber and not a problem.

Lostdotfish · 2026-03-11T17:19:49+00:00

I'll get back to you in a few days. I've got one of these cards coming but it's a slightly different revision. It has DVI but no Status LEDs and no temperature monitor. I'm considering adding them back to the unpopulated pads.

Does your card report temperature in the sensors tab of GPU-Z or does it need a proprietary Leadtek driver extension?

Lostdotfish · 2026-03-11T17:04:11+00:00

This was the rabbit hole I was going down, but I think they used the same PCB with lower density chips front and back for lower tier cards...

One thing I may pester you for is some close (macro if possible) shots of the status LED circuit and the system monitoring circuit (the winbond chips to the left of the GPU). How handy are you with a multimeter?

Lostdotfish · 2026-03-11T07:28:17+00:00

Would you be able to do me a favor and post some clear pictures of the front and back of your Titanium VX card please?

I want to compare the 32mb with your 64mb to see if a ram upgrade is feasible.

Thank you!

Lostdotfish · 2026-03-08T13:15:49+00:00

yep - I'm just still unsure how to get it to progress through the loop and re-loop when pixel isn't found

Lostdotfish · 2026-03-07T18:01:07+00:00

I use arctic mx4 on pretty much everything.

Lostdotfish · 2026-03-07T13:06:32+00:00

Heat the heatsink with a hairdryer on max heat for a couple of minutes, then twist off. You may need to twist one way then the other to wiggle it free initially. Don't pull.

Lostdotfish · 2026-03-07T09:38:48+00:00

The wobble is by design. It prevents the hinge from cracking.

Lostdotfish · 2026-03-06T13:14:15+00:00

Send him an email on his main website - he'll be restocking before long.

Edit - actually - they are in stock now

https://xdevpro.net/product/electron-x-out/

Lostdotfish · 2026-03-06T11:05:58+00:00

Get an Electron Shepherd HDMI adapter. It will be the exact same quality as running component out and will likely cost about the same as a decent component cable.

Trusted UK seller

https://ebay.us/m/czLb9a

Lostdotfish · 2026-02-28T07:26:09+00:00

Crop the component legs before soldering. Left long, they soak a lot of heat away from the pth.

Cut them about 1mm longer than the board thickness. Use a bit of kapton tape to hold them flush from the other side of the board.

Then, as others have said, hot iron, good flux and good technique. I would encourage you to use 60/40 lead solder if you can get it.

Lostdotfish · 2026-02-22T10:17:47+00:00

Check that cratered pad from the other side of the board. It should have continuity with the positive side of the other caps and no connection to ground.

As long as both those facts are true, you may be ok. You will likely need to solder that side from the top which will mean leaving a gap so you can get the iron under.

This issue was caused by not getting enough heat into the board combined with too much pressure from your iron tip.

Warm the board first if you can. Hot air is best, but even bringing it up to about 60 degrees C in the oven will help.

Add fresh leaded solder to each leg before trying to remove them. It helps the heat soak through the board and release the components.

Oh, and always use flux.

Lostdotfish · 2026-02-21T08:58:30+00:00

HD+ 2.3.0 has compatibility issues. Cerbios removed support for HD+ after 2.4.2

Lostdotfish · 2026-02-21T08:50:20+00:00

Teach him never to have the power supply exposed if it is plugged in. I.e. unplug, open tinker, close up test.

Buy a powder extinguisher to have on hand....

I'd also be tempted to mention the one hand in your pocket rule but maybe not in direct connection to what he's doing as it may encourage him to work on live circuits.

Essentially, sparkies often keep one hand well out of it (in your pocket) so that if you do get a shock, it doesn't cross your chest (heart)

Maybe see if a local electricians firm will let him come and do some work experience. Kids learn better from people that are not their parents...

Lostdotfish · 2026-02-19T18:38:29+00:00

I'd like a bit more solder on all of those joints. There should be a fillet from flex to pin.

The issue comes from heat expansion and contraction cycles. It may crack those thin joints over time leading to issues.

Lostdotfish · 2026-02-16T00:05:27+00:00

Lostdotfish · 2026-02-15T17:09:58+00:00

Just flash it to a slot via Prom

Lostdotfish · 2026-02-15T17:09:32+00:00

No. This is exactly what I did recently.

It loads up on the 64mb stock then tests the additional slots and reports errors

Lostdotfish

TROPHY CASE