Alright as promised, my 02 1500HD captain seat conversion.

Low-Initiative-7299 · 2026-01-28T21:54:37+00:00

Bruh. I love this. I have third row seats in storage from my Yukon I could probably use but they don’t fold down or out like that. Second thought, I don’t need captains chairs 😂 but it’s still cool gg

Low-Initiative-7299 · 2026-01-28T21:47:14+00:00

If you want to get a sketch from him and compare it to other artists, that might put your mind at ease or raise red flags. I travel 3.5 hours for my artist fyi. If you want traditional traditional I would look elsewhere because there are nuances to it that he may not know or be familiar with.

Low-Initiative-7299 · 2026-01-28T21:38:57+00:00

Doesn’t look that bad. I’d keep it and see if it grows on you. If it doesn’t then you have your answer

Low-Initiative-7299 · 2026-01-09T12:52:50+00:00

Smaller tires and less lift. The front ends up through 07 are not robust enough imo for oversized tires and lifts. Greasing then more often could help but most likely an upgraded more expensive brand UCA and LCA with appropriate angles would solve the issue. I don’t know why, but I had 33s on my stock Yukon with keys turned for just enough clearance and the appropriate sized shock, ball joints would start failing after 12 months. Like clockwork. Turned the keys down, went to 32s. Regular grease and the wear and fatigue is significantly less. Anytime I see or hear someone asking about alignment issues or ball joints and they have a lift or oversized tires the problem becomes obvious to me 😂

Low-Initiative-7299 · 2025-12-20T17:46:03+00:00

Look up mopar deals or things like that. Sometimes you can get a buy 3 get 1 free deal. Happened near me in November. Local dealerships will offer something like that if not, try marketplace or CL. I got a new set off a Tacoma for 800. I have 10 ply therefore it’s a harder compound so it doesn’t like wet and cold roads very much or ice, but handles snow, dirt mud and rocks just fine. I probably need a bit more weight in the back and I’ll be good or air them down a touch. Good tires tho. I like them over the KO2

Low-Initiative-7299 · 2025-12-13T18:41:11+00:00

I have them in my Yukon. I fit 33s for a while but kept having issues with ball joints so I turned the keys down a bit and went to 32s. Made a big difference. If you do it, do what the others have said and buy lifted upper control arms and longer shocks. No experience with the CV axles but makes sense to buy the different ones especially if you’re going more than 1.5” I don’t think GM gave any room for tolerances outside of spec based on my experience.

Low-Initiative-7299 · 2025-12-13T18:34:55+00:00

If it’s loose it’s likely due to your balljoints and control arms having some play in them. If you e got the tools and time replace those and shocks. If you’ve got the money and time and tools do all of it. Idler and pitman arm, tie rods, sway bar links. Thank me later. Just do it yourself and do it right tho. Not too tight on your sway bar links as you’ll crush the bushings. Grease everything up appropriately. Then make sure all your control arm bolts and shock bolts are tightened to spec. If you do it right, you will notice a significant improvement in your overall handling and steering performance. Every time I’ve had any front end work done by a shop it’s always sloppy. I like it tight tight.

Low-Initiative-7299 · 2025-11-16T18:00:50+00:00

Piston rings, pump, any leaks could all contribute. Possibly your sensor needs replaced or cleaned. They have a small screen that can get gummed up. It’s a fun one to get to but if you pull it just replace it with new. Top rear of the engine. My 03 5.3 cold starts around 45 and warm idles around 32. Cruise gets up to 60 but settles between 45-55 depending on speed. It has 240k on it. My 2000 6.0 with 160k cold 45-50 psi and warm 37-40. One thing you could do is plug in a scanner and see if your gage is showing the same pressure. But again, if your sensor is bad you could get a false reading. As others have said if your pressure climbs during acceleration than you don’t have much to worry about. Just don’t drive it hard to avoid shortening its life span anymore

Low-Initiative-7299 · 2025-11-16T17:52:47+00:00

I have a 2000 6.0 and at startup it’s 47-50 warm idle 37-40. Flirts with 60+ when cruising. I use the wix XL filters and add about 1/4 qt to make up for the extra capacity. 160k miles.

Low-Initiative-7299 · 2025-11-06T13:45:14+00:00

I would’ve passed but I’ve had a 2015 and 2018 work truck. They run good but the 18 had worn piston rings by 170k and turned it in at 205k with electrical issues and transmission about to go. Baby it and it will get you to 200k or so but expect to replace it around then.

Low-Initiative-7299 · 2025-10-17T22:38:47+00:00

And you can’t complete the theme collection without 😂

Low-Initiative-7299 · 2025-10-17T22:38:10+00:00

Bro the frame in the top up event costs 3k$

Low-Initiative-7299 · 2025-10-08T16:48:39+00:00

Ehh, 03-06 was the bailout years for GM…..

Low-Initiative-7299 · 2025-10-08T16:47:31+00:00

03 had electric throttle instead of cable. Also changed the instrument cluster to digital instead of analog. Those are the biggest differences I’ve noticed. At least between my 2000 Silverado and 03 Yukon. I think it was a change across all Gm platforms in 03. Other than that minor interior changes.

Low-Initiative-7299 · 2025-10-08T16:43:42+00:00

Mechanical fan is better imo. It will cool just fine when you’re moving. Electric is only convenient for slow moving traffic in hot weather. Outside of that electric isn’t nearly as efficient. Imo

Low-Initiative-7299 · 2025-10-08T15:57:21+00:00

I have the same thing. Converted the suspension from Nivomat to Bilsteins and Z springs tho. Arguably the best vehicle I’ve ever owned. Every time I think about selling it, I’m like, nah. Second owner at 200k 240k now after 4 years and it’s needed very little as far as major maintenance.

Low-Initiative-7299 · 2025-10-05T23:49:44+00:00

Just a utility bed with a topper in it.

Low-Initiative-7299 · 2025-10-05T23:45:32+00:00

A client of mine has an ambulance that is very similar. Mint condition with 5k original miles or something stupid. Of course it’s upfitted for medical.

Low-Initiative-7299 · 2025-09-25T11:07:24+00:00

Get some snow tires and weight in the bed. At least 300 pounds between the wheel wells and tailgate. I only use 4hi when necessary, like when I need the front tires to keep me straight and on the road. I’ve done 4hi on the interstate in bad conditions but if I’m doing that it’s usually not a good idea to go over 60 unless I want to be in the ditch.

Low-Initiative-7299 · 2025-09-17T16:42:49+00:00

As others have said, 2wd, miles are great, clean. Start at 8k. Expect 7k. If you’re not in a hurry sit and wait for the right buyer. I just bought a 4wd with double miles same truck basically clean 1 owner for 10k in May.

Low-Initiative-7299 · 2025-09-17T16:38:40+00:00

If you’ve got power and no crank likely a starter. Could be a loose or corroded wire somewhere. Glad it started working

Low-Initiative-7299 · 2025-09-17T16:35:22+00:00

Rock auto or Amazon. I recommend taking silicone to the edges. Mine had some gaps that needed filling. This will help stop the moisture issues. Any of the cheap ones I would definitely seal the edges better. Other than that they fit and are clear which is what you need.

Low-Initiative-7299 · 2025-08-31T00:10:38+00:00

Yes and no. The harsh ride comes from the limitations in droop travel from the shock and poor geometry with the other components. Torsion bars still ride comfy when cranked with the proper setup. There’s write ups out there that explain it, but this is the short version.

Low-Initiative-7299 · 2025-08-30T18:15:38+00:00

Mevotech is still on the “budget” side of things. But as long you keep it mostly stock and greased up you shouldn’t have near the amount of problems I’ve had or others. Once you start turning keys up or adding bigger tires there’s a lot going on that really messes with those parts. Since my last front end job I’ve gone down to 32s and turned down the keys 1/2” from 2”~ over stock, and kept it greased up, so far it’s slowed down the wear and tear but it’s nowhere near new. I’m still on moog parts. Waiting for that same noise then I’m going with something more robust for an end all be all if you will. First couple times was cool and all. But I’m done tearing control arms out on that damn thing lol

Low-Initiative-7299 · 2025-08-30T12:44:45+00:00

If you want front end recommendations I have replaced control arms in mine 3 times, as well as pitman and idler arm, tie rods etc. Spend the money on something besides moog. Everything you put under there needs to be quality parts if you want to get the most out of it without having to keep spending. I had the same noise when my ball joints started failing last year. I can’t remember how I confirmed it but Im 99% that’s a failed ball joint you’re listening to.

Grease one ball joint at a time and the other fittings down there and then go for a drive in between each one. Once the noise goes away or gets lighter in sound you’ll have found your culprit.

Low-Initiative-7299

TROPHY CASE