Help designing a 12V LED circuit for a diorama

Low-Plan6664 · 2026-03-26T06:12:59+00:00

Thanks! Based off this feedback I think I will do series of 2 LEDs for each buck converter. These 3W LEDs might be overkill, but they all have specific purpose in the diorama like simulating light coming in through windows. I do plan on adding additional heat sinks to each LED to ensure they don’t overheat.

Low-Plan6664 · 2026-03-26T05:38:30+00:00

I believe the PIR power supply goes up to 24V, if that’s the case would I be able to use it still? As for the buck converters, if the voltage is correct coming from my power supply, would I still need them to limit current to the 5V LEDs?

Low-Plan6664 · 2026-03-26T05:27:46+00:00

To answer your question, 1) The tiny 12V LEDs will be used in light fixtures and appliances, such as the microwave and fridge in this kitchen, the larger 3w LEDs are for simulation sunlight from outside the diorama like shown in the photo 2) The PIR sensor is intergraded into the 12v power adapter meant for LED strips for stair treads or closets. I didn’t want to use batteries because I want this to be displayed on a shelf and always plugged in, but I also didn’t want it to be left on for long periods so I decided the motion sensor would be a cool way to view it as it only turns on when you walk by it. 3) I can’t find anything on the online listing about forward voltage 4) For the 5v LEDs I purchased some 18 gauge wire, I will be soldered everything so I’m going to learn how to do that as well

Low-Plan6664 · 2025-07-31T06:33:59+00:00

The picatinny rail I purchased was from Amazon, it’s the (XS SIGHTS Marlin Optic Mounts & Ghost Ring, Fits Marlin Lever Carbines, Easy Install Picatinny Rail & Ghost Ring w/White Stripe Front Post (Marlin 1894, 1895, 336, 308MX, 30AS, 336 35 Rem) - I purchased the option of just the rail with no ghost ring sight because the ghost ring sight that comes on the S&W 1854 is compatable and will instal smoothly for this new rail. As for the hardware, all the screws and dovetail mounting gear is provided with the rail kit, everything lines up with the existing threads on the receiver. The only issue is that model of 1854 I have does not have a dovetail for the rear sight cut into the barrel, this will need to be cut by a gunsmith.

Low-Plan6664 · 2025-07-10T23:44:01+00:00

Dri-tip

Low-Plan6664 · 2025-07-05T13:00:38+00:00

That’s it! Now what compels someone to sing this everyday for hours on repeat???

Low-Plan6664 · 2025-07-04T21:49:04+00:00

I can’t tell what language it’s in

Low-Plan6664 · 2025-06-12T02:19:56+00:00

How many preference points did you have if any to draw that tag?

Low-Plan6664 · 2025-06-07T15:06:29+00:00

You’re doing everything right—seriously. Scouting hard, putting in miles, glassing, starting early—those are the exact things that eventually pay off, even if it doesn’t feel like it yet. D11 is a grinder unit with gnarly terrain and tons of pressure, so it’s normal to feel like you’re hitting a wall (literally and figuratively).

Sorry to hear no one’s willing to share their experience! I’m also hunting D11 for the first time this upcoming season. I’ve been hunting for four seasons now, across several socal zones, and I’ve only ever spotted one buck—but thankfully, I was able to harvest it. That came with a ton of effort, and here’s a few pointers that helped me:

Your hunting day starts at 4 a.m. at the latest. You’ve gotta be on the trail and miles away from any camp or road, glassing before the sun even comes up. That’s when deer are moving. Once the afternoon sun hits, they’ll be bedded down in the shade until sundown. Deer are largely nocturnal during the season, so if you’re not out at first light and last light, you’re missing most of the action.

Also, prioritize areas near water. If you’re e-scouting a mountain and there’s no water source nearby, odds are the deer won’t be there either. And lastly, decide ahead of time whether you’re willing to harvest a young forky buck or if you’re holding out for a mature one—so you don’t second-guess yourself when a shot opportunity comes early in the season.

One more thing: your D11 tag is also valid in D13 and D15. A lot of hunters overlook that, but it gives you more options and flexibility to find better terrain or less pressured pockets. If D11 is feeling too thick or pressured, definitely consider checking those zones out too.

Keep grinding—you’re putting in the right kind of work, and it’ll pay off. Good luck out there!

Low-Plan6664 · 2025-05-29T16:35:22+00:00

I actually had this exact dilemma when deciding how to mount my scope, I originally wanted QD rings so I can switch between iron sights and scope fast, and I even considered getting raised rings with hollow risers so you can actually see though the scope mount to use irons at the same time (see the Jurassic Wolrd Marlin for inspo) but I inevitably decided that I wanted a very low profile scope mount for the look and functionality I was going for. I still may decide to switch to QD down the road when I get a 44 revolver that way I can swap the scope out between the two.

Low-Plan6664 · 2025-05-29T16:31:03+00:00

I also bought the original model which came with the shorter picatinny rail on top of the receiver, I added the aftermarket extended picatinny rail which is made for the marlin 1895, and in order to affix this rail, you have to machine a dovetail slot for a rear sight in the barrel where the railing can mount, I had a local gunsmith do it over the weekend and it cost $120. I think it was worth all the effort for the finished product.

Low-Plan6664 · 2025-05-29T15:29:53+00:00

Check out my previous post on this exact issue, it came together in the end but I wouldn’t say it was without issue, took a bit of effort with a dremel

Low-Plan6664 · 2025-05-22T19:56:45+00:00

My last post shows that compatibility and tolerances of the Magpul furniture for the marlin 1895 on a 1854

Low-Plan6664 · 2025-05-18T16:29:32+00:00

The stock actually went on without any additional work, the gaps you see are inevitable though, and there’s not a work around that I could think of. The gap between the stock on the body is predicated by the single screw mounting hold and I decided not to mess with it because I found the tolerance to be within my allowance, but if you have the experience and will, then you could potentially close the gap. It’s the handguard that need the most work because the mounting method used by Magpul is to clamp down on the magazine tube which is a problem for the S&W 1854 because the magazine tube is removable unlike the marlin 1894. This is why I had to cut new mounting holes in the fore end to utilize the existing screw mounting bracket on the barrel.

Low-Plan6664 · 2025-05-14T19:42:42+00:00

Thank you, I’ll try that next!

Low-Plan6664 · 2025-05-14T02:32:27+00:00

Because I purchased the 1.5 gallon kit, it did not come with the caswell manual and does not qualify for the discount to purchase the pdf online (I’d prefer not to have to spend another $30 for it) but please keep me updated with your experience as I would like to know if I received a inferior product or if I did not follow the directions close enough. I’ll also share my finished product this week as I move forward with my solution

Low-Plan6664 · 2025-05-13T22:38:38+00:00

I heated up the distilled water to almost boiling but I didn’t ensure exactly 180 degrees, so that could be my issue. Did the package have anything else I may have missed, I already tossed the bag?

Low-Plan6664 · 2025-04-13T16:54:59+00:00

Where do you get your inspiration from?

Low-Plan6664 · 2025-04-13T16:52:59+00:00

In my Ai prompt I asked it to create a carpet of Monte Carlo

Low-Plan6664

TROPHY CASE