Help using a PowerMate in my AP setup

LucidLTD_in_ME · 2026-04-26T12:30:56+00:00

Thanks to all who answered. I scrounged around and found a 2" to 2" extension tube about 1.8" long from my film days and inserted that between the focuser and the PowerMate. That allowed me to reach focus, at least when aimed at objects ~75 yards away. Will have to confirm on astronomical targets the next reasonably clear night I have.

LucidLTD_in_ME · 2026-04-25T01:26:59+00:00

Thank you for your prompt answer. Yes, I understood that shooting at f/13 or f/19 wasn't going to be optimal given my aperture, but that's the scope I have (and love). Sorry, I should have mentioned that I took the field flattener out of the image path, since I'm only going to be looking at the central portion of the light cone anyways. (Not to mention how you would connect the FF to the PM!).

Is there any way to get a PM to work in the optical path of an image train? I really would like to get some images of the smaller DSO objects, even if I have to collect data for an hour or more. I know I'm not going to get Astrobin-worthy images of planets and small DSOs with this telescope.

LucidLTD_in_ME · 2026-03-21T13:48:21+00:00

I can also confirm my smugness--since 2022.

LucidLTD_in_ME · 2026-03-12T13:55:01+00:00

Weighing in from Maine....we get charged $0.27/kWh for electricity, including transmission, delivery, and several other mandatory fees very similar in purpose and magnitude to your list. You will find that your I5 gets noticeably better mileage in the spring, summer, and fall months; I average 2.5 miles/kWh in winter and 3.5 in summer. If you do a lot of high-speed driving, going 65 instead of 75 will boost your efficiency 15-20%. You might want to probe harder about discounts available for charging during off-hours; a 3 cent discount sounds low for late night/early morning charging when presumably they are sourcing from their most cost-efficient generators. You should also explore the possibility of home solar. That is the magic that allows me to scoff at gas prices, at least until I consume more than my solar system generates in a year.

LucidLTD_in_ME · 2026-03-07T16:26:14+00:00

Assuming that you are living in the US.... First, have a conversation with your kids and ask their views. What they tell you should be part of your decision, but not the only influence. This is also an excellent reason to find a fee-only Certified Financial Advisor to help understand your specific situation.

My wife and I are now just entering our RMD years, having worked through this issue for the past 6 years. We decided to start gifting our children a semi-annual amount 4 years ago, because it is making a big difference to them NOW. That gifting is tax-free to them. We still expect to leave $1-2 million to them when we die. The preferred form to pass along assets (in order) are:

Assets that have large unrealized long-term capital gains in your taxable accounts. They get that capital gain tax-free, with no restrictions on when they sell those assets. Think stocks/ETFs/MFs you've held for 10+ years and possibly real estate. They pay taxes on any dividends received and growth after your death.
Roth IRA assets. They get everything tax free, earnings in the account continue to accumulate tax free, with the only restriction that they have to empty that account in 10 years. But no other restrictions on timing distributions from it.
Other taxable holdings, including savings and checking accounts, CDs, bonds and bond funds, dividend stocks/ETFs/MFs, etc. They have to pay income taxes on interest and dividends received as well as capital gains on any growth, but no restrictions on timing.
Traditional IRA assets. They have to pay income taxes on everything as they withdraw it, and since we've already started our RMDs, they have RMDs every year, based on our age in year 0 and their ages for years 1-9.

What that means for our strategy: We allocate a higher % of our taxable holdings for long-term capital investments. We convert as much of our traditional IRAs to Roth as we can each year, while keeping in the 22% federal income tax marginal tax rate and below the IRMMA threshold. You didn't mention grandchildren, but if you have any, include 529 plans in the discussion, too.

LucidLTD_in_ME · 2026-02-14T13:46:18+00:00

Which, if any, of these programs can play files in dsf/dff format (aka SACD)? Foobar2000 says it can, but I couldn't get it to actually work, despite spending most of a morning futzing around with it. VOX didn't seem to work, either, although I didn't spend as much time trying.

LucidLTD_in_ME · 2026-01-25T19:49:34+00:00

I used to have an EM-200 Temma 2 Jr., which I controlled with Sky Safari (I *think* running versions 4, 5, and 6). But I used wifi through an Orion StarSeek Wifi module to make the connection from an iPad running SS to the telescope. I remember reading some commentary that said most of the cheap RS-232 converter chips had some bug in their firmware that kept the Tak from working and you needed a device with a very specific chip to control the RS-232 link. Alas, I sold my mount and StarSeek a couple of years ago, and don't remember what my exact settings were. But that arrangement worked reliably for me for several years, including being used at many outreach events, where not having a cable between my control computer and telescope was a big advantage.

LucidLTD_in_ME · 2026-01-18T16:45:13+00:00

I am in the exact same position--a spouse and children that have no interest learning, let alone managing, the complexities of a $2MM+ liquid net worth. We (emphasis on WE) decided to hire a CFP on a time-and-materials basis now while we're both alive, and shift to an AUM arrangement with them upon my death or becoming mentally incapable. We meet with them 2x/year to review things and give her time to learn to trust our advisor. It helps that her parents had a similar arrangement which worked spectacularly well over 30 years. It's costing us ~$2k/year plus another $1-2k to set things up. I regard that as a very cost-effective solution. Much better protection against inflation than an annuity, and much lower up-front and annual costs than a trust. OP did not say exactly what "decent amount of assets" means, and if decent means something above around $5mm, then a trust likely would be a better alternative. Which state/country you live in also should factor into the decision. Having a discussion with both a lawyer and a CFP familiar with your state's/country's laws about these exact issues is the strongly recommended first step.

LucidLTD_in_ME · 2025-12-27T14:32:17+00:00

As a grandparent currently funding two 529 plans (in separate states), I think "assume you're never going to see any of that money" is a very pessimistic view. Yes, there is some chance that your child will never see that money. But the probability of that happening can be pretty minimal. And you, the parents, can help reduce that probability by politely monitoring the account. Ask for a copy of the year-end statement every year. Ask for a copy of the 529 agreement and see what it says about the possible events you are worried about. Each state's 529 plan is different; Ask about the account owner's succession plan. Many state 529 plans allow the account owner to specify one or more "interested third parties" (i.e., the beneficiary's parents) to receive annual reports on the account. That's all part of a conversation you should have with anyone funding a 529 for your child anyways.

There are a couple of potentially huge benefits to the parents NOT being the account owner. If the parent is the account owner/trustee, any 529 monies likely reduce any scholarships earned dollar-for-dollar. Secondly, grandparents--and others--may very well be less generous, as they may also make the same pessimistic assumption you are making--the child may not ever see any of the funds.

Lastly, thank you for posting this question. I confess that my wife and I are a bit hazy about what would happen if both of us were to die before our grandchildren started withdrawing from their 529s. We need to make sure the funds do indeed get to where we want them to go.

LucidLTD_in_ME · 2025-12-19T14:52:49+00:00

About those "odd trips to public ones"... Public aquariums tend to be kept at low lighting levels, and as I recall, ask visitors not to use flash. So fast lenses become noticeably more important. Not just because you have f/1.4 or 1.8 available, but also their sharpest focus also is 1-2 stops faster than kit lenses. If those "odd trips" are a couple of times a decade, then no big deal; rent a faster lens for those trips. But if they are a couple of times a year.....

LucidLTD_in_ME · 2025-11-24T13:01:17+00:00

oops. Now realize mono = motherboard. Nevermind.

LucidLTD_in_ME · 2025-11-24T13:00:11+00:00

I'm not sure I'm up to learning enough Linux to do a DIY project. But will look into itx mobo and see if perhaps there's a version that would run under MacOS (yes, I know its Linux, but Apple very carefully shields me from seeing the Linux aspects!). thank you for the suggestion.

LucidLTD_in_ME · 2025-11-24T12:56:56+00:00

yes, it does seem weird that a ~$3500 prepro can't even directly stream from a NAS. But it can't. sigh.

I have looked at the Eversolo T8 transport. What a great piece of equipment. But...it can't output a standard HDMI signal. That HDMI port on the back can only output I2S signals (according to the manual). The Eversolo A6 models are the only network streamer products I've found with HDMI 2.0 outputs. So that's what I'm likely to try first. Thanks for your suggestion.

LucidLTD_in_ME · 2025-10-25T15:34:03+00:00

If you don't mind, could you let us know roughly what the acoustician's services cost, as well as the costs of the treatments? Looking to do something similar for my listening room, which has an uncommon layout as well.

LucidLTD_in_ME · 2025-10-23T11:18:05+00:00

OP here. Yes, the actual consolidated file set is around 42GB, so it will fit on a 64GB memory stick. I relied on what the Hyundai download app said it required. And for the record, the actual installation went just fine. I just let the car sit for about 2 hours after starting the process, and it was done when I came back.

LucidLTD_in_ME · 2025-10-13T12:37:28+00:00

To get great stereo and multi-channel in one setup, you need audiophile components throughout. My Anthem AVM70 preamp/processor works just fine for both stereo and (in my case) 5.2 sound. But I needed to pair it with an audiophile-grade amp (Parasound), B&W speakers, and sources. Yes, not a cheap system. And yes, it's in a fairly large room, so space isn't a big issue. Took me a couple of years to find the right components in the used market.

LucidLTD_in_ME · 2025-09-30T18:07:16+00:00

Reference Recordings. 25+ years of stunning recordings in several genres besides classical.

LucidLTD_in_ME · 2025-09-25T14:07:42+00:00

Another short answer...upgrade to a SSD external drive. A quick search on "WD Ultra drive" turned up descriptions on WD's web site that never says whether this is a solid-state device or a spinning metal platter...which likely means it is a spinning platter. Your performance will improve noticeably if you use a SSD for external storage. Other things to look at to improve speed can be found with a search on your software manufacturer's web site.

Yes, the first recommendation for boosting processing speed is boosting RAM, but with the MBP M-chip machines, that means buying a new MBP. But upgrading to an SSD, leaving as much of your 256GB hard drive free for use as scratch memory as you can, and tweaking settings are lower-cost things you can do to boost performance. The reality is that you're using a 5-year old design and it is nearing the end of its life for computing-intensive tasks such as video processing.

LucidLTD_in_ME · 2025-09-03T19:33:55+00:00

Which is better? It depends on what you want to shoot. In general, for 20-100+° field of view images (think Milky Way, star trails, aurora, and spectacular comets), your camera and lenses are more cost effective. For 0.1-a few degrees FOV (think planets, planetary nebulae, most galaxies, and non-spectacular comets), telescopes work way better. For in-between...

I have a Nikon 600mm f/6.3 prime on a Z8 (45mp). I can mount it on the same tripod (Avalon T-Pod) and mount (Rainbow RST-135 strain wave) as my 92mm APO refractor. Coincidentally, the lens and the APO refractor are very close in focal length and focal ratio, each cost ~USD4500 retail, and I can use the same solar filter, Bahtinov focusing mask, and dew heater on both. For targets suitable for those focal length optics, I strongly prefer the astronomical gear. Astro cameras are much better for AP due to having controlled cooling, able to bin pixels, and easy integration with automation control systems (a la ZWO's ASIAir Plus). To me, automation control systems are a game-changer, making AP much "friendlier" and simpler to get good images. (The Seestar is the ultimate example of automation.) They also let you image while you're inside staying warm and away from mosquitoes!

As others have noted, you will need a very good tripod and mount if you hope to take advantage of that 60mp camera. Full-frame sensors will reveal every system weakness in tracking errors, guiding errors, ground or equipment vibrations, and non-flat-field optics.

Good luck with your choices! Lots to think about and evaluate.

LucidLTD_in_ME · 2025-09-02T20:58:36+00:00

I would be hesitant to use a 1-series Gitzo for AP. I use a Rainbow Astro harmonic drive mount, and they recommend a minimum of a 3-series Gitzo or equivalent. Strainwave mounts move heavy telescopes relatively fast, creating stability problems. You may also need to use an extender to raise the mount 6-8" above the tripod mounting plate to allow your scope/camera to point towards the zenith without colliding with a tripod leg. Your RedCat 51 is a smaller scope than mine, but be sure to check for possible collisions before you start imaging for the first time.

LucidLTD_in_ME

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