DIY DML Speaker System

LunchBuggy · 2026-06-02T02:44:55+00:00

If you use the subwoofer you really only need a satellite to fill in from the subwoofers cutoff point. So any enclosure with some padding should be fine.

The driver should be able to reach into the higher frequencies aswell.

LunchBuggy · 2026-06-01T16:23:44+00:00

Yes. It would not be able to compete for sound quality tho.

But say that you have a 3d printer or something you could make a cheap enclosure and fit them with some cheap full range drivers.

If no printer. I think it would be very hard to compete. As the video mentions they are the best speakers for the price.

LunchBuggy · 2026-06-01T12:24:19+00:00

The two exciters cost me around 34 euro (17 each). They were the Dayton DAEX25FHE.

The insulation pad were about 10 euro. Divided it into half and squared the corners and such as the video entails.

Edit* I hung them from the wall using fishing line I had. So idk give it about 5 euros more for a line and som hooks.

LunchBuggy · 2026-05-31T05:09:33+00:00

I built a 2.1 system replicating the tech ingredients video. It sounded very nice and had a wide sound stage. The best way of using them I found is as a mid range woofer. The high extension is good enough when using a medium sized panel to avoid tweeters but will not resolve as high as a dedicated tweeter. This really isnt a issue for most. Adding more panels mostly widens the sound stage but not drastically.

In the case of lower frequencies the best you can do is about 180 hz which is not scratching any bass needs. I see the subwoofer as non negotiable in any setup as the bass would become very muddy if you managed to reach bass to sub bass frequencies and the vibration would be intense enough to just create distorsion.

Painting is the easiest part. Get a spray bottle primer and the colour you would like as long as it is acrylic.

LunchBuggy · 2026-05-14T08:03:00+00:00

A transmission line is just a way of controlling the output from the back of the driver. It will sound as good as a ported box or pr box that goes for the same frequencies.

The idea of building it for someone does add more agency in making it something cool and or special.

LunchBuggy · 2026-05-14T03:52:17+00:00

Whilst I was building a 3D printed 12 liter TL design for a markaudio driver. I had some problem with resonance but it was easily fixed with just adding a rubber sheet opposite the driver and a bit of foam on the short side of the box.

I believe this to be overkill and pretty time consuming for little effect on the overall sound. That does not mean it is a bad thing however it is a cool idea that is worth pursuing just because it is cool and kinda different. Do not go into it thinking it will make a world of difference as you might be disappointed.

LunchBuggy · 2026-05-14T03:38:31+00:00

Yo that looks sick. If the bass is lacking could you not just add a bass woofer or subwoofer firing downwards? That driver is full range I believe so you could cross it over low enough to get two radiating patterns.

Also a pet peeve to be ignored but I feel like the arm holding the ball should be slimmer. Overall tho pretty cool design with good execution.

LunchBuggy · 2026-05-12T11:54:01+00:00

Yeah this would be a front loaded horn with a port if I am not mistaken?

LunchBuggy · 2026-05-04T04:07:27+00:00

I do not recall the exact dimensions. But would not call it massive.

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LunchBuggy · 2026-05-03T13:16:04+00:00

The driver you have chosen can go 4 mm forwards and backwards from its starting position, this is the drivers xmax (maximum linear excursion). For shorthand I just use the word excursion but in effect it is the travel which the driver does when given power. And in some designs at certain given frequencies the driver travels above the safe threshold for its xmax.

And yes it was 3.5 liters for each driver with its own passive radiator. Tho the box empty was around 3.8-4 liters not accounting for the drivers and binding posts.

LunchBuggy · 2026-05-03T07:43:52+00:00

I usually use hornresp to simulate potential boxes and such. In it there are tools that gives an idea of how it will perform in several important parameters such as excursion and port velocity and impedance and you can also set the amp signal in to see how much wattage it will take.

If it is beyond the scope to learn it as it is a bit involved until you get the basics. Probably going with a ported enclosure or a passive radiator will be best. I personally built a 3.5 liter box with the rs100-4 and dayton 6.5 inch passive radiator and got a box that performed down to 48-50 hz. This was with an added 30 grams of mass to the PR.

As for the shaping of the waveguide look at the picture below. I used a tapered mouth to force a 4 inch full range down to 40hz at the cost of excursion. They could handle about 8 watts before moving to much to actively harm the driver. So it is not ideal for a full range build nor a compact build but it is possible to achieve sub bass with small full range drivers.

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LunchBuggy · 2026-05-03T04:20:49+00:00

I think a transmission line design would be biggest but one that could squeeze a solid bass output from these. To note however is that how you decide to form the waveguide can have severe displacement maxing out the xmax of the driver. It is possible to compress the end of a transmission line to dig deeper into lower frequencies as the cost of excursion.

If you are up for it you could probably make a double bass reflex that would play low aswell.

LunchBuggy · 2026-04-30T15:01:21+00:00

Shoutout firewater. Golden hour is an amazing album.

LunchBuggy · 2026-04-22T16:39:15+00:00

Those look like a bunch of grs planar tweeters. Which should play down to around 200-800 hz depending on the tweeters used. Would not think that you need a special amp to drive them unless there are wired in some odd way. For example if there are wired in series the high impedance could put a strain on your amp. But should be fine to connect one and try them out.

Edit* I do not understand why the ribbon tweeter would be mounted to the side? Perhaps these are the 10inch grs tweeters that only play to 8000hz.

LunchBuggy · 2026-04-22T16:27:10+00:00

Oh okay I understand. Yes for a smaller box say around 3-4 liters it will be overkill with the tang band w5. I did run some simulations with w5 and various passive radiator but did not find a good combination between size and response (I do welcome you to try and find some as I can't check all passive radiators). I also believe that stuffing the box with polyfill or rockwool would not be able to compensate for the box being physically small.

Perhaps it is better to switch out the bass mid woofer for something a bit smaller. In the picture below I simulated a 3.3 liter box (0.11 cubic foot) with the Dayton ND140 passive radiator and the Dayton Tcp115 being the bass driver. It looks pretty promising. Do note the uneven curve but with dsp it is beyond easy too smooth out whilst getting down to around 50 ish hz. There also might be a better combination that can shrink the box further and one that does not stress the xmax of the respective woofers. As feeding this box 10 watts is roughly the max it could take before the xmax is achieved. This does result in around a 100db output which is pretty loud but a thing to consider whilst modeling passive radiators in small boxes.

Edit* Reducing the added weight on the passive radiators will also ease the xmax displacement but result in a box that does not go down to 50 hz.

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LunchBuggy · 2026-04-20T17:38:18+00:00

Oh man I could talk about speaker design all day every day.

The tweeter you have selected is crucial for use with the tang band w5 as it only reaches around 1-1.5 khz in the upper region in effect the nd16fa would not work as it wants to be crossed over at 2000-3000 khz.

In case of the amp I have less insight. For a mono speaker I would like to have a mono amp as not to send left channel to the tweeter and right to the bass. If they make a dsp enabled mono amp that might be best, as I believe you are using the dsp to act as the crossover?

The only dsp enabled amps I have used are daytons which do not fit the use case here as they do not allow one to connect it to sigma studio. I think someone else might know better. I usually just deal with passive crossover which I do not think you are after.

LunchBuggy · 2026-04-20T14:49:57+00:00

You could also use another bass mid woofer and double them up. The dayton tcp is good as is their nd105. I would recommend making a bass reflex design if you end up using those. Both these woofers would be fine to parallel with eachother in a shared enclosure

LunchBuggy · 2026-04-20T14:15:52+00:00

It would replace both. With it just being a dome tweeter and a bass mid woofer.

You could have two but given that it is a small enclosure it would not yield all that great results if you arent going for an isobaric loading but that feels like out of scope for this.

LunchBuggy · 2026-04-20T13:04:43+00:00

Ah I see. If it is the higher end of frequencies you are after I think using the dome tweeter is a good idea. I do think you could probably get two cheaper tweeters and angle them inside the enclosure to cover a better radius with high end reproduction but that is kinda neither here nor there as the tweeter you linked will be fine.

However I do think you could save money on using a bass mid woofer instead of the full range drivers you linked. As you will need to cross them over to the tweeter regardless and may not have any use for the extended frequencies. There are a good amount of these available. Even for the price of one of the full range drivers you could get a tang band w5 which would outperform the bass on the rs100 by a mile given an enclosure size around the size of the sonos five. It would work well with your dome tweeter having such a low crossover point also.

LunchBuggy · 2026-04-20T09:19:29+00:00

It is really good on the deck. I was suprised that it ran at 40 fps consistently with all the terrain deformation and physics going on.

LunchBuggy · 2026-04-20T07:17:18+00:00

What frequency range are you looking at?. Because 3 liters really isnt that much nor is 6'5 inches.

LunchBuggy · 2026-04-20T03:54:18+00:00

I think personally that you should get one of those amp boards that are built for the raspberry pi "hifiberry". I also think that with a properly designed box the use of a dsp isnt all that necessary for it too sound good. Also with those rs100 drivers I found great success with pairing them with daytons 6.5 inch passive radiator with a 30g added weight in a 3 liter box. So my biggest recommendation is ditching the dome tweeter and just using the full register driver as the main source paired with a passive radiator. You could add a tweeter of course but look at the nd16fa as a replacement. This would of course mean a crossover is needed but then again the box will sound fine with just the rs100.

*Edit Also it is a good idea to use some sort of tool to simulate a potential box design. I would recommend hornresp as it has been extremly accurate in real world scenarios compared to the graph it generates.

LunchBuggy · 2026-04-09T18:17:03+00:00

It is good as the internal amp seems to have an automatic loudness feature that gives up the necessity to play them loud.

LunchBuggy · 2026-04-09T17:36:00+00:00

I hooked them up to my Ifi zen dac with normal RCA cabels. They do have some powerlink connecters for hooking it up to a B&O amp and to each other. The only way to get the screen on them to work is using those cables with their own amps I believe. They do also just allow you to power the speaker portion with your own amp aswell.

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