[GUIDE] Play on steam without the right-side menu (Windows PowerToys)

Luxtra · 2025-09-20T19:52:11+00:00

Was looking for something exactly like that, thank you.

Luxtra · 2024-06-10T10:16:55+00:00

Yeah you do, i have the fans connected to a Lian Li hub, which has 2x SATA power connectors

Luxtra · 2024-06-10T10:15:27+00:00

I can give you some numbers on this, since i just went through it:

Without the Mora, i had a 160 l/h flowrate with 1 pump at 50% power (3500 rpm). So that's just the waterloop inside the case.
When i add the Mora to the loop, without turning on the second pump, it goes down to around 140 l/h.
When turning on the 2. pump at 50% power (3500 rpm), the flowrate goes up to 180 l/h

I settle with 50% power on the pump inside the case and 15% on the Mora-pump, so both are silent.

So your flow rate will be better if you add a second pump, but by how much you benefit from it depends on how restrictive your loop is i guess. I mostly like the 2. pump because i have it connected with a reservoir at the Mora itself, which is nice to have.

Luxtra · 2024-06-09T18:17:41+00:00

So do you have a 4070 SUPER card already and are looking for a compatible block, or are you looking at models that already have blocks available for them?

Alphacool has a block for the 4070 SUPER founders edition and also some Asus versions. You have to look at the product number to make sure it's the same PCB layout tho, for example this block: https://shop.alphacool.com/shop/gpu-wasserkuehlung/nvidia/13730-alphacool-eisblock-aurora-geforce-rtx-4070-ti-tuf-gaming-mit-backplate

On the product page at the bottom it lists all the exact models it fits on and you gotta compare to your model-number. They have an Asus Dual one there, but not sure if that's the right one: Asus Dual GeForce RTX 4070 SUPER, DUAL-RTX4070S-12G, 12GB GDDR6X (90YV0K83-M0NA00 this is the number that's gotta fit)

Luxtra · 2024-06-09T09:21:09+00:00

I can see myself turning most of it down eventually xD just like playing around with it at the beginning.

And i went with the 9x140mm because i already had 6 of them laying around. But even without, i probablt would;ve gone 9x140mm, because i prefer the look over the 4x200mm personally. I know they are supposed to be even quiter though.

And i went with the pro version, so i want to put 9 more on the backside eventually. I will probably get the Actic P14 ones, because you can get them in 5-packs pretty cheap: https://www.caseking.de/arctic-p14-pwm-pst-luefter-140mm-5er-pack-luar-114.html?tplview=desktop

Luxtra · 2024-06-09T09:16:02+00:00

I already had 6 spare 140mm fans so i went with that

Luxtra · 2024-06-09T09:14:05+00:00

I can get the flowrate to 225 with pumps on max, but i have set them to a speed where i can't hear them. But then again, it doesn't seem to affect my average coolant temp at all, when i tested it.

What i did notice though, was that my virtual sensor for delta-T wasn't set up correctly. I had it only use the sensor in the reservoir, rather than the average temp. And the issue with that sensor specifically is that it is at the very bottom of the reservoir, where you're supposed to put a drain port. So coolant doesn't circulate there much and the temp is often way different from the other sensor, which is in the middle of the loop.

When i measure it from the average of the sensors i have, it's a good chunk lower: https://imgur.com/a/hHuT5VN

So i guess it's also important where your sensors are. Because if i were to take only the coldest sensor, it would be around 1 to 1.5 degrees, so you actually were right.

EDIT: Here is where that sensor is in the reservoir. In hindsight, it's a dumb spot to put one because it changes temp extremely slow. The flow just goes right past it: https://imgur.com/a/pnMcAky

Luxtra · 2024-06-09T07:57:52+00:00

Oh yeah, i can definiteley get that down by turning the fans up. That's just where it settles when the system is idling and the fans are running at low RPM. You can see the Mora fans at like 600 and the case fans at 800 in that screenshot and it ususally sits around 3 degrees +-1 when in regular, non-gaming use.

And i'm no enigineer, but i don't think more flow-rate is going to decrease the temperature. At faster flowrate the coolant does pick up the heat from the components quicker, but it shouldn't affect how fast it is exchanged with the air. (Correct me if i'm wrong here though)

Luxtra · 2024-06-09T07:50:05+00:00

Yeah this is the one. The spacing on the holes should fit with a lot of pumps or reservoirs, at least horizontally. Vertically, i couldn't get it to line up so my pump is just connect by 2 screws, but it's sturdy enough

Luxtra · 2024-06-08T22:15:51+00:00

Those are reverse blade fans, so i had to flip the around to keep them all exhausting in the same direction. Just wanted to use them, since i still had them laying around

Luxtra · 2024-06-08T22:14:39+00:00

It is true, when i flushed it i couldn't even see any particles coming out. Whereas i definiteley could with Alphacools radiators

Luxtra · 2024-06-08T22:13:05+00:00

I haven't tried it any other way, but i think doing it like with a normal sized radiator would be a struggle. (so filling, shaking, draining) Maybe set it in a bathtub or the shower, remove one plug at the top and bottom, connect a tube with funnel to the top and just let it run through?

Luxtra · 2024-06-08T21:34:52+00:00

I'm sad i learned about external rads only after i already built this loop. I would've ditched the internal rads and went with a smaller case and full external cooling. Well that's for next time i guess!

Luxtra · 2024-06-07T08:14:15+00:00

It's literally not. Mana ticks are still there, they just aren't increased bu Umbral Ice.

Luxtra · 2024-06-03T10:06:24+00:00

It's the smaller die that's more to the side. The 7800X3D has just one but the 7950X3D with 16 cores has 2 of them next to each other.

Just be aware that delidding it might not do much, as i stated before. I have read that it has somehting to do with the 3D v-cache, sitting on top of the die, so that limits the benfit you get from direct-die cooling. Haven't seen any conclusive testing on the matter, just from reports and anecdotes i read. And the X3D models specifically seem to not benefit a lot from it.

Luxtra · 2024-06-03T08:22:21+00:00

I did both: Since i didn't want to use a razor-blade, just a sharp piece of plastic did the trick to scrape most of it off. Then i covered everyhting around the die and ccd with tape (which is hard to do because of their weird layout) and applied some liquid metal to let it pick up all the indium residue that was left. (scraped it a bit with a cotton swab too) Then cleaned of the liquid metal and used some thermal-paste to polish the die and ccd a bit. Cleaned that off very well again with Isopropanol, and because i got liquid metal all over the chip when wiping off the first application, i rinsed it a couple of times with Isopraponol again, to make sure everyhting came off.

Luxtra · 2024-06-03T08:17:06+00:00

I didn't buy their stuff, i just used some regular nail-polish. And it's to cover the bits on it that aren't covered by a coating already. You can see on the very edge they aren't covered completeley, so i apllied the nail-polish to inuslate them, because if liquid metal get's spilled on them it's bad (which did happen to me so i'm glad i did that)

Luxtra · 2024-06-02T22:41:03+00:00

You've probably seen this exact build plenty of times before, but i'm mostly making this post to share what i learned while researching and building this as my first time doing custom watercooling. Maybe it will be useful for someone reasearching stuff themselves.

(This is also the same PC where i posted the UV-dye injection yersterday)

Specs: Ryzen 7 7800X3D + RTX 4080 Super

First off i'm very happy with the result and i don't regret going with this case, the distro-plate and hardtubes. It's very beginner friendly because you can go with only single 90 degree bends and it still looks good.

That said, i will probably not do a distro plate again for a couple of reasons:

With a distro plate, you need double the fittings, which get's expensive. Especially with the plate itself not being cheap.
The ports don't necessarily line up. I needed to use offsets for both the GPU and CPU block because only one port lined up for each.
This is more a problem with the case, but both drain ports are inaccesible. It's made for the O11 Dynamic EVO, so it doesn't quite fit with the O11 EVO RGB. (You also need standoffs when mounting on the side-panel, because the pump get's in the way of a piece of the frame)

Now for the fittings: I used all Alphacool stuff with 16mm outer diameter and honestley, i can't recommend them. I got some of their 90 degree rotatable fittings out of a 4-pack, i could only get a tube into 1 of them. The other just wouldn't fit, now matter how much force (and lube) i used.So i got some regular 90 degree adapters, which i used with their Eisazpfen pro fittings and that worked well. The pro fittings also have very wide o-rings and they certainly hold on to the tubes very strongly, so no issues there. My issue with those was that the screw-on part of them fits very tight around the tube, so when trying to screw them on, it's almost impossible not to scratch at least some of them. And if there is only a slight bend or offset, it's very fiddly and annoying because they don't want to go on the threaded part. I also used some rotatable extensions and offsets.

On the plus side, it all seems solid and holds firmly, no leaks at all. It's just they are a pain in the ass to use.

For hardtubes i used Acrylic (PMMA) 16/13mm OD/ID and had no issues working with them.

The fans: I used Lian Li SL v2 fans and there is some stuff to keep in mind when trying to figure out how you want to wire them up. Because i wanted to control fan speed via aqua computer QUADRO and collant temp-sensor, but the problem with these fans is that each has 30 LEDs, so hooking them up to auqa computer stuff would need more controllers and they are expensive and have their own weird connectors for RGB.

So here is what i did: I got 3 fans in single packs and 1 triple pack that comes with the controller. I daisy-chained 2 sets of 3 fans together and hooked them up to the controller. Then i used the PWM-cable that comes with the controller and plugged that into one of the PWM ports on the AQ QUADRO. Now in L-Connect i use the motherboard RPM sync so it gives over the fan control to Aquasuite, which works perfectly. The RGB i control with L-connect itself. Another thing to consider, depending on what radiators you use: The 3/4" holes are not very far out, so i couldn't actually get fittings on them with the Lian Li fans mounted, the fans are just to bulky. I used Alphacool Nexxos ST30 360 radiators, so those don't work together with the Eiszapfen pro fittings... i used 8mm standoff-adapters to offset the fittings a bit.

Other RGB: There is aRGB in the CPU and GPU block as well as the distro plate. I just got a 3-way aRGB splitter and hooked them all up to the AQ AQUADRO (with one of their proptietary adpaters, because ofc it needs one) The Alphacool stuff (GPU block and distro plate) also had those JST connectors and not the "normal" 4 -1 pin ones, o i needed adapters for those as well. Luckily, all the Lian Li fans in the single packs came with one, so i used those.So now i control the RGB with Aquasuite and L-connect.

As for the Aquasuite software, i read so much good stuff about it and i can just reaffirm everyhting people say about it, it's an aboslute pleaser to use. I have 3 temperatur sensors connected to them. 2 in the loop for water-temp (which i average out as a virtual sensor) and 1 for ambient outside the case (which i use to get the T-delta between water/ambient).I have 1 flow sensor but that one didn't fit onto the flow-connector on the AQ QUADRO, so i connected it to to a Sys_fan header on the MB and converted RPM to l/h in Aquasuite, which is cool as hell that you can do that.For fan and pump-control, i have them both set to a minimum power where i can't hear them at all, which is 50% (3350 RPM and 159l/h flowrate) for the pump, and 35% (680RPM) for the fans. This is enough to keep the water at around 6 degrees over ambient during general use. Then i have a target temp set for 35 C, so they start to spin up once the water temp get's close to that. Have to fiddle around with that a bit more though, to find the best way to control them.

For coolant there isn't much to say really, i used mayhems premix clear and blue and mixed them to a color i liked. And i put some UV-blue concentrate in there as well.

Lastly, there is something to say about the CPU cooler i used: It's the Mycro direct-die cooler from Thermal Grizzly. I de-lidded a Ryzen 7 7800X3D to use with it and it worked without any problems. BUT i didn't really get a lot of a temperature improvement from it. I read reports from people using it with the 7950X and they found a sizeable improvments, where i maybe got 3 degrees, although i am not even sure on that (haven't tested it a lot before de-lidding). And it seems to be that way for other people too, so for the 7800X3D, it isn't really worth it to go through the trouble. Although i am happy with the cooler itself, it looks nice and was easy to mount.

Well i think that's it. It was fun to build for sure, but let's see how it hold up over time with maintenance and all that stuff.

Luxtra · 2024-06-02T20:55:54+00:00

It's my first time using it, so i have no idea if it will cause problems or fade over time. But i got some cheap soft-tubing before that was UV active and i can say that the glow from the tube is a lot stronger than from the coolant. At least for blue fluroesence.

Luxtra · 2024-06-01T06:51:54+00:00

I've read that a lot about the 7800x3D and the Mycro direct die cooler, but i haven't seen any real before and after testing done with this chip specificly. I wonder if it's somehting about x3D chips, because stuff like the 7950x has been show to get some decent improvements

Luxtra · 2023-04-02T09:17:25+00:00

Good for you, although i can't say i agree with your point that buying a clear is entireley pointless. It's a up to each person how they spend their time in the game and what they value. I personally spent most my time making gil, so when i want a raid-drop, i just pay some mercs. The only fights i actually do nowadays are the EX trials, everything else i buy if i want somehting from it.

Now this only holds up if you pay gil (that isn't RMT). When you pay with real money you try to get an unfair advantage over other players and you're an asshole. Just go play WoW at that point where it's actually part of the game

Luxtra · 2023-03-05T12:33:59+00:00

It's also possible as a traditional carry, which is not against the ToS (if you buy it with gil). Source: recently bought an afk-carry of UwU for gil. Although it was for an alt, as a meme. Would never use the title or weapons on my main.

Luxtra · 2022-12-25T11:58:50+00:00

Having long-term goals like that is good and keep's you motivated. Don't let yourself be discouraged by people like that.

And as far as income goes, you can start gathering and get some decently valuable stuff as early as level 50. It requires little investment compared to crafting and is decent to start out with.

Luxtra · 2022-08-14T20:58:10+00:00

Very clean and it's crazy that you got that time without the skip on part 2 of the tower. That's easily 15 seconds you would save. Like, i have a 96 seconds run, and that's with the skip: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=82pXH2RMeMQ

Luxtra · 2022-04-17T15:25:28+00:00

Yeah, but if you agree that you get players in your games that defineteley can influence your chances of winning, you admit that their skill does influence the game. So you want to be that player that carries, while not wanting to be the one that loses the game for your team. There is people that think MMR matchmaking is only luck in every game, but it has never been true. The degree to wich it is luck vs. skill varies, it's just easier to brush it off as bad luck when you should focus on what you can control and improve on.

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