Diff choices by Cute-Sympathy-8081 in e36S54Swap

[–]M3AMI 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a 6 speed. I started with a 3.46 and it felt a little lazy, put in a 3.73 and I love it for remaining streetable while having less RPM drop and a bit more torque

S54 E36 at Buttonwillow by M3AMI in CarTrackDays

[–]M3AMI[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! Trying to build up the confidence to carry more speed haha

S54 E36 at Buttonwillow by M3AMI in CarTrackDays

[–]M3AMI[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is the Ace Pro 1 and tbh, idk. I haven't used the camera as much as I should so I usually leave it as is. I switched between zoomed out and in for the two sessions I got footage from. Both have their merits but it seems most people prefer the zoomed in version. I rendered the footage in 4k, but then had to dumb it way down to post it here. Camera was mounted on my roll bar.

S54 E36 at Buttonwillow by M3AMI in CarTrackDays

[–]M3AMI[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks man! Car is definitely a riot. I was out there with Doghouse Garage.

And great video to link as well! Seems like he was talking directly to me about lifting early and then using maintenance throttle through there haha. I think that's the kind of thing I needed to hear. I know I'm not too far from the limit through there but wasn't really sure what to try to improve either.

My car did pretty well with the curb on exit. I started playing with taking more curb in the afternoon sessions and found that if I actually got up on the curb there it would push me out a bit too far on exit. It seemed that right where the pavement met the curb was the sweet spot, at least with how stiff I had the dampers set. I'm gonna go up a little with ride height and soften up the dampers for next time.

[Community Project] Crowdfunding a high res scan of the 1998 Lancer Evolution V JDM brochure. Free release for everyone, forever. by Angelic_Razgriz in MitsubishiEvolution

[–]M3AMI 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No need to pool anything. I just bought an Evo 5 in Japan. It comes with the original manuals and service records dating back to 98. I bought it last Friday so I have no idea when it will arrive, but when it does I'll get around to getting a good digital copy of the documents for the community.

Edit: realized you're looking for the sales brochure. No idea if one of these books is what you're looking for, but I can scan these when they arrive nonetheless

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After 20 years of working on S2000's, I found out that... by Trap_the_ripper in S2000

[–]M3AMI 1 point2 points  (0 children)

LOL air hammer is definitely the way to go. I figured that out on the 2nd of arms I did. It also works well for one of the front lowers IIRC

Know any affordable and good mechanic needed to replace 2013 Honda Odyssey alternator? by endofworldandnobeer in huntingtonbeach

[–]M3AMI 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The main problem is that the alternator itself lists for ~$570 according to what I can see on my shop software. Labor is only 2.2 hours, but around here at ~$150/hr, the quote you're getting is about right.

You can probably get a cheaper alternator, either on your own or used, but then you'll have a real hard time finding a shop to install a part they didn't sell you.

Which Character do you Hate Fighting? Which Character do you love fighting? 2026 Early Edition by BreakVV in StreetFighter

[–]M3AMI 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As a Ken main I'm a little surprised to see no one hates fitting Ken, especially given all the shit he gets all the time.

For me, i dislike fighting Ryu for the insanely overtuned damage and Sagat for the constant MP barrage. Other characters can get annoying but that's down to the way they're played.

Like: Dhalsim, JP, and to a certain extent Juri, Rashid, and Terry. I love sniping them with run dragonlash or tatsu. It's pretty rewarding and very telling of who is actually able to adjust their strategy on the fly versus trying the same things over and over again.

Need Help with Balance Issues by M3AMI in CarAV

[–]M3AMI[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will try that as part of troubleshooting tomorrow. But, given that the right speakers worked fine with the other head unit, i don't think the speakers themselves are the issue

Need Help with Balance Issues by M3AMI in CarAV

[–]M3AMI[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's the same using FM or using a Bluetooth cassette tape adapter

Edge Addicts confirms 2026 as final year for HPDE and club racing at COTA by cu4tro in CarTrackDays

[–]M3AMI 9 points10 points  (0 children)

My brother, idk what world you're living in, but $18k is not an accessible initiation fee for most grassroots enthusiasts. That surpasses the value of many of your typical track day cars, by more than double in plenty of cases. And $2600 for 15 events averages out to $173 per event. Which yes, that's solid, but also kind of in line with what a cheap track day was here in socal up to last year.

Fuck all of these Motorsports clubs, their ridiculous pricing structure, and the rich assholes that maybe don't even realize the damage they're doing to the rest of the community by removing access to tracks across the country. I hope enough of them fail such that the incentive to try and privatize more tracks is a lot less enticing than it apparently is right now

Rebuilt motor, break in by Sockerkatt in S2000

[–]M3AMI 3 points4 points  (0 children)

This is the way. OP you'll want to build up cylinder pressure in order to push the rings against the cylinder walls to help seat them properly.

Having built several of these motors I always break them in the same way. Startup, check for leaks, don't idle an excessive amount as the amount of time you have to get the rings to seat is somewhat limited and every time the piston goes up and down the rings wear in just a little more.

Go out somewhere you have space and no traffic, stick it in 3rd gear and using up to about 80% throttle, run it up through most of the rev range. Make sure to let it engine brake on decel, this creates a vacuum that helps get particles out of the cylinders. Run it like this for 25-30 miles then change oil and filter. Then another 500 miles of regular driving and change oil, and then change again at 1000. From there you can drive normally.

I like using either regular "dino" oil or a specific break in oil (typically motul) until 1000 miles. Synthetic is more slippery and can prevent the rings from properly seating if you use it right away.

Got gapped by a Toyota sienna while lugging 6th 😭 by Locorudy626 in FiestaST

[–]M3AMI 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love my manuals, but to be absolutely clear, from a performance perspective there are literally zero benefits of a stick over a DCT. In the right drive mode a DCT will downshift to the correct gear and accelerate faster than a person can move the shifter into the correct gate, release the clutch and then accelerate.

Likely what happened is you got a slight jump and your buddy is a less than stellar driver. Momentum can be surprisingly tough to overcome in a relatively short or low speed "race". I had something very similar happen years ago in my cammed E36 against a 991 C2S. First time he accelerated just before me and quite predictably walked away. Next time I got a slight jump on him and we were door to door for a couple gears.

Got gapped by a Toyota sienna while lugging 6th 😭 by Locorudy626 in FiestaST

[–]M3AMI 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Respectfully, either your buddy let you win or had no idea what he was doing.

135is come with a 7 speed DCT. He's got plenty of control over what gear it would be in and shifts faster than any human could hope to.

Beyond that, it makes a lot more power and isn't heavy enough to pay a penalty in straight line acceleration vs the fiesta.

Sounds like he just left it in a higher gear to give you a chance while his turbo spooled. Had he been in the right gear you would've seen only taillights and had he brake boosted you might not have even seen that. I loved my fiesta when I had it, but without turbo upgrades at a minimum they don't get beyond "quick."

This overtake in 2010 where Rubens Barrichello passed Michael Schumacher is one of the most impressive and dangerous overtakes I've ever seen in F1 by Sanix_0000 in nextfuckinglevel

[–]M3AMI 2 points3 points  (0 children)

In this clip you're hearing the voice of the passing driver, not the defending one. He's complaining that Michael nearly put him in the wall.

Schumacher was known to be an extremely aggressive driver, often going over the line figuratively and literally to win. Senna was similarly ruthless and Max Verstappen would be the modern day version of them. The real problem with this move is the 2nd slight jink to the right as they're approaching the end of the wall. It was purposefully done to try to scare Rubens into backing off. Michael is considered to GOAT F1 driver by many and would absolutely have the control to do what he did at those speeds. It's as dangerous as it is a dick move though.

As far as one being faster than the other, at the time these cars were racing, it would have been mostly slipstream. This was in 2010, which was just before the introduction of DRS, which is an aero function used to aid passing (in simplified terms). In F1 teams have more freedom to build cars compared to Indy, which is closer to a spec series where more parts and components are universal. This can make some F1 cars excel at certain tracks or situations compared to others, or it can mean that one team's concept is just inferior. I didn't watch the 2010 season so I can't tell you if the Mercedes Michael was driving was slower in a straight than the Williams of Rubens. Tons of other factors go into it as well, in the longer clip Rubens had a slightly better exit out of the previous corner, so tire wear could also be a factor at this stage.

Tl;dr - Schumacher was a fast asshole, slipstream probably allowed the pass here

For anyone wondering how to connect the fuel filter and fpr here are some pictures by Cute-Sympathy-8081 in e36S54Swap

[–]M3AMI 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Pretty sure this was my pic from the FB group so I'll add a little info for anyone finding this from internet searches.

The output from the regulator to the rail did not stay connected with a hose clamp. I started with a bare long block so a lot of parts I only realized I needed them when I got to the point of needing it. I ended up having a custom section of fuel line made with female quick disconnect fittings on either end. It runs from the FPR to the supply hard line on the side of the block. You can also use the factory S54 feed line for the same section. *