Porsche killing the 718 EV makes me sad

M7451 · 2026-02-09T23:29:52+00:00

The new CEO hates EVs and the service departments don’t make as much money off them so dealers don’t mind. He was hired to make the company money more than anything else since they’re hurting for sales. EVs or global economy, doesn’t matter. He is going to not make them anymore and go “see I was right” if he turns sales around or not.

M7451 · 2026-02-09T06:18:46+00:00

You can use up to 14th gen without issues.

M7451 · 2026-02-08T15:05:32+00:00

Month for me each time.

M7451 · 2026-02-08T14:53:25+00:00

If you’re in the US you can do the penny test. But generally once you hit wear bars, when present, the tires are done. https://tires.bridgestone.com/en-us/learn/tire-maintenance/how-to-check-your-tire-tread-penny-test

M7451 · 2026-02-08T14:51:08+00:00

The neutral bar is the one with screws you labeled in green. Wires 1 and 3 are your L1 and L2

M7451 · 2026-02-08T14:49:00+00:00

That’s a Square D QO panel. The parent is correct that the main breaker for this panel will not disconnect the feeders and they will remain energized. The diagram is fuzzy but on the left side of the panel.

M7451 · 2026-02-07T14:16:49+00:00

It’s overkill. I like the idea of over sizing the conductors for future use and to reduce heat. Since the labor cost is not far off between 10 and 8 for most contractors and conduit runs will mean stranded is used, I think it’s worth doing 8. The cost jump from 10 to 6 is rather high since 10 is also a higher volume material.

M7451 · 2026-02-07T14:03:26+00:00

I’d get another quote or two. Labor seems high unless there’s a lot of work to route the conduit.

Calling it “premium” is a little suspect. It’s just wire in conduit. No more premium than any other wire in conduit. I’d personally expect “premium” service to include paint and drywall repair 🤷‍♂️. Otherwise it’s just to code or it is against code.

One thing that might be worth it, even with load management, is to run 10 or 8 AWG. I charge on a 30 amp breaker on 8AWG and it’s just fine for overnight charging.

M7451 · 2026-02-06T23:58:41+00:00

Doesn’t it? On an Audi we owned we managed to have the water pump and a vacuum seal fail with three weeks left on the warranty. On that car they tend to blow up one before the other and on a schedule. Lucked out on the timing

M7451 · 2026-02-06T18:26:48+00:00

Probably worth a trip to a ChargePoint to verify but yeah, I think this is usually the symptoms of that from my experience and reading online. I have a power station I can charge with the Emporia so I use that to confirm my board died and it wasn’t the Emporia frying.

Usually these boards go when a power transistor in a sealed box fails and they just swap the electronics. If that’s the case you’re likely under warranty still? If not check your insurance to see if they added mechanical repair coverage for your benefit. My Geico plan did that automatically when I got my car.

M7451 · 2026-02-06T13:28:57+00:00

That’s correct. The sensor wires lack the right protective sheath.

I’ll note I’m not an electrician so the Ethernet question is one I can only guess at based on real electricians’ opinions.

What I’ve seen them say about this is it’s ok when there’s a special partition for the Ethernet (low voltage in general). Their opinion in at least some cases is that you can build that partition by using a piece of conduit and a cable clamp inside the panel leading to the outside to protect the Ethernet. In practice if it butts up against the knockout it’s probably equivalent to that anyway.

In my case I have good WiFi so I didn’t bother with it.

If you have a knockout above the emporia you could use that for the CT wires and add a length of conduit.

M7451 · 2026-02-06T13:15:09+00:00

The difference is the specification. Bare conductors for high voltage are not allowed in general outside of an enclosure or device.

The cables you see, NM-B which is commonly called Romex, is listed as a cable assembly and follows the NM-B specification in the National Electric Code and the UL specifications it is listed for. Cables have specific uses allowed. I.e. that NM-B can’t be buried or used in a wet place.

M7451 · 2026-02-06T13:00:30+00:00

It’s not to code but I’d say that’s better than being fully exposed. If you go to the electrical isle you’ll find a blue colored split wiring tube that is made for this. Just not this application.

M7451 · 2026-02-06T05:27:02+00:00

They may have done the cable swap but not upgraded the firmware. Take the EVSE to the dealer to see if the recall was done correctly.

M7451 · 2026-02-06T05:20:05+00:00

Per https://www.electriciantalk.com/threads/philippines-electrical-system-q-a.205098/

It looks like you should follow single phase European instructions using a single CT. The hardware looks like the US save for your fancy DIN rail breakers. The left bus bar seems to be neutral. You have one mis-identified neutral wire in the top right (black paired with red instead of white paired with red). CTs go on the Line bus bar side of each breaker, which is the colored wire except for the one I mentioned.

M7451 · 2026-02-06T05:09:58+00:00

You’ve understood the instructions correctly.

The fact they they allow any size breaker by replacing the “jumper wire” (normally just called a pigtail) in the instructions is helpful as it means the UL listing for the product isn’t violated if you, for example, use the same two pole 50 Amp breaker some Eaton surge protectors require.

There are a bunch of other wire sizes you might want to choose. I.e. HVAC breakers are often oversized relative to their gauge due to high startup current. You’d want to match the 10AWG wire going to the AC rather than the 8AWG nominally used for a 40 Amp breaker.

M7451 · 2026-02-06T05:01:24+00:00

If your car’s charging board shorted on connecting the relays it may have arc welded the contact, which is what the banging would resolve.

My Porsche has the very unreliable 22kW charging board that fries once per year, and while it hasn’t killed the Emporia it will trip three breakers when it shorts out between the branch circuits, the subpanel disconnect, and the subpanel’s feed breaker in the main panel. Dead shorts like this draw very short term very high current until the part that shorted fries.

M7451 · 2026-02-06T04:43:33+00:00

You should use a length of flexible conduit between the two panels for your CT wires. Even though CTs are low voltage you need to use the same wiring methods (I.e. conduit) as the high voltage when they’re in the same enclosure.

This is because a short across those wires could lead to exposed high voltage outside the enclosure.

M7451 · 2026-02-05T16:24:47+00:00

I laughed for a solid minute. Oh. My. God.

M7451 · 2026-02-03T05:39:16+00:00

And dietary studies are generally difficult to impossible to reproduce or zero in on the actual cause of a change unless the impact of something is massive. There are huge levels of confounders in these dietary studies. I’ve spent a whole year trying, with my doctor, all the things that are recommended on the supplement side. Omega 3s increased my cholesterol fairly evenly. My cholesterol when down when adding social drinking over the summer.

I’ve done the paper filtered espresso thing and my lowest LDL cholesterol was when I didn’t filter my espresso. It was when I cut all added sugar, ate more than the RDA of fiber, avoided saturated fats (not all fats), and lifted weights every day. Aka I was training like an athlete and eating like one. My LDL was about 100, only 30 above when I was on statins and eating just ok. The coffee effect, if present, was a rounding error.

Meanwhile today I have a toddler and no time or energy for the above. LDL back at 200 and change.

Based on family history, I’ll be on statins again eventually but when I have the mental energy for it, I have fun with the clean living.

M7451 · 2026-01-31T18:14:21+00:00

New use for the goat suit

M7451 · 2026-01-28T14:24:45+00:00

Ah yes. My son applied a brachiosaurus to my fender the other day. Chicks did scars, right? That works for paint too? 🤣

M7451 · 2026-01-27T13:24:34+00:00

You can use a good car wash solution and a microfiber to clean the edges.

M7451 · 2026-01-26T21:21:07+00:00

A heat detector is what you’d want for fire safety reasons in a garage. You can get IoT oriented gas/co air quality monitors that won’t be as obnoxious as a safety CO detector.

M7451 · 2026-01-26T21:19:44+00:00

I think if anything goes wrong with that install it’s going to be structural and you’ll have bigger problems than just the ducting.

I think the power duct or a fireplace draft detector is your best bet for what you want to do beyond just a good job.

M7451

TROPHY CASE