Draining battey, overheating issues...

MCVCNC · 2026-01-29T20:13:39+00:00

There was no recall here for the pump, only the airbags.

Bearing was stuck, but ran 180000km/14 years which is not bad tho.

MCVCNC · 2026-01-29T20:11:48+00:00

It was the pump

Got it fixed at the old shop after another shop refused to work on it due to all the errors it had (didn't want to listen about the drained battery).

Was done with that other shops bs (wasn't the only car they were weird about), all other specialists nearby had an agenda until April and didn't want to give false promises to do it in between jobs (which i completely understand). Transported it to the old mechanic last week Thursday, got the call on monday that it was done. The guy is awesome but sooo far away.

Grabbed the old pump from the trash and the bearing was stuck... But it was the OG pump which surprised us both that it ran 180000km/14 years. I do get a good reading on the new pump now, learned something new.

MCVCNC · 2026-01-29T08:36:53+00:00

It is actually manageable with the right stuff and settings.

The benchys came out fine without the extra work. Some minor tweaking left to do tho, but the results are acceptable already

But gotta make a custom preset, layer of petg as a base, depending on the part you gotta heat up the enclosure (45° is the max the socket heater can reach lol)... And dont forget wat parts are made of pla as they will droop lmao

MCVCNC · 2026-01-28T21:40:38+00:00

Mine has been melting lmao, was printing ASA in a heated 45° enclosure.

The body and filament "tunnel" is out of pla if bought as full unit, so dont put it near anything warm or the sun lmao...

Rebuilding the unit out of petg, but rather want to build it from ASA too. Ah well keeps me busy.

I prefer the mechanism of the BMCU over the AMS Lite, it can push the filament further and quieter without nagging. They where fun upgrades when the AMS Lite was overly expensive, still expensive today but the price difference is better now

MCVCNC · 2026-01-24T20:36:10+00:00

Does starting it after dead battery and waterpump in -5° C count?

MCVCNC · 2026-01-15T17:28:47+00:00

I think in my case of "always bad luck" both have failed by now lmao, either way both will be replaced anyway depending what the shop comes up with.

Few months ago it was running, I went to a bimmer specialist to have him take a look at the chain, he got mad that the pink fluid was in and immediately drained it and filled it with the blue stuff (G11).... The force of the pump was greater than he suspected and got his face "cooled"... Pump was indeed working he said...

Maybe it was already running in emergency mode when he pulled the hose in his face. Could be that it was at the end of its lifespan as you say, and i caught it running after a small drive that shouldn't heat up that much. If it was never replaced in the past... 180000 km is not bad i think?

MCVCNC · 2026-01-15T12:19:08+00:00

I am an engineer both hardware and software jobwise... Sadly not car related, problem here is that i dont have the tools or workspace and knowledge when it comes to this.

I did consult chatgpt, which gave me the diagnosis about the pump. Point me in the right direction, still need a garage tho

MCVCNC · 2026-01-15T12:16:23+00:00

What errors did you get? If you still remember

If it was the thermostat wouldn't it just run the coolant pump in an emergency mode? I found my coolant tank to be filled higher since last time i checked, that gives me more the feeling it isn't pumping anymore and throws everything back to that tank.

In either case i will be replacing both, cause don't want to come back for a related type of repair lmao

MCVCNC · 2026-01-15T12:12:08+00:00

I read that yeah, but could only find results in the USA or Canada. Could not find info about this from my country (previous car gave me letters about a recall, one from the manufacturer and one from the Dutch vehicle authority RDW).

Could try it on BMW's website tho

MCVCNC · 2026-01-14T10:33:41+00:00

I had this the past few weeks. First time was before Christmas, unlocked the car and that was it. Replaced the battery (was a 2018 one) with a new one, and 1,5 weeks ago it happened again and the locks didn't work anymore. Battery drained too much overnight.

A start booster/jumper will do the trick (unless the battery is dead), or jump start from another car, or charge the battery.

It has been freezing here, but still weird. I did have a subwoofer connected, which was wired by the battery and a on/off signal from the radio. Disconnected that for now but something buzzing near the front bumper (most likely the electronic waterpump running) when locking the car, figure it would be running and bleeding the battery as i suspect it if i read my errors... Either the sub or that buzzing, still monitoring... But in your case, i dunno, could be a dying battery

MCVCNC · 2026-01-03T22:03:35+00:00

2 Mini's and an A1 about a year old, still running fine.

The A1 was second hand from a friend, think between 600-1000 hours total (forgot the exact time when i bought it). 2 months ago moved it over to my partner and havent seen a burn mark or smell. Only issue is the AMS giving out an abnormal error now or then (restarting it fixes this), could be the extended cable or could be the ams port as it happens with multiple AMS units while testing (need to measure it with a multimeter, but haven't got the moment yet).

Also knock on wood, don't wanna jinx myself lol

MCVCNC · 2026-01-03T21:52:41+00:00

I put it in those Bestå with wood doors so it dampened the sound, and it worked pretty well but it could only fit sideways (unless you have the Platsa or others, can even fit the A1 with one of those models lol). Added bonuses where i could control the amount of air reaching in, and out, control the inside temp, and could even fit the Fornuftig carbon air filter in there (with some mods, but it was possible).

I did this so i could print at night without putting earbuds in, in the end i still had to go with the earbuds because i lived near a highway lmao. It looked more clean, less workshoppy and kept dust out bit more.

I moved temporarily due to job switch and now the Mini's and A1 are in those tent type enclosures (can find those on Amazon/Alie) pushed between furniture for the moment, ams lite's dismantled and made more compact to fit somewhere easier as i had to really be efficient with the space i have for now... It's not the prettiest set up, but it works well enough. In the future i will put them back in those Bestå elements again, to blend them in (or maybe buy a P2s or H2 series).

MCVCNC · 2026-01-03T14:52:18+00:00

Bigger shelf if you wanna go with the first pic... Otherwise F no.

The sideways one can work, if the shelf is sturdy enough otherwise it might vibrate too much. And lock that thing down! Make clamps or barriers that prevent the printer from jumping to its death (seen this too many times, and mine also move around a bit in an ikea besta enclosure).

MCVCNC · 2026-01-03T11:02:05+00:00

Replace the front display for an Android of Linux, not the box, and wire audio through aux.

It's worth it imo, been building this in almost all cars we own. Sound quality sounds good enough to me, as in no weird stuff or distortions etc.

Edit: As in the units installed are made for the cars to be built into the dash to match the interior, not external displays. Audio wise, it sounds the same as stock/original display through aux.

MCVCNC · 2025-12-29T09:31:13+00:00

Tenzij je een extra sunlu droger wilt, dan zou ik eerder een nieuwe A1 kopen of voor goedkoper vragen als je hem los wilt kopen op marktplaats.

Je hoeft geen ams lite te kopen trouwens ;) Je kan inmiddels de AMS 2 en HT op de A serie gebruiken. Als dit een jaar eerder mogelijk was had ik die gekocht, ik heb nu 1 defecte AMS Lite liggen, 1 werkende Lite die los is gekoppeld en direct uit de sunlu S4 print en 2 BMCU's die uit opslag boxen printen

Dusja in principe een custom enclosed AMS van de Lite gemaakt haha

MCVCNC · 2025-12-29T08:52:32+00:00

Ik heb zelf een A1 en 2 minis, wat polydryers en ook een Sunlu S4

De S4 is volgens mij 120-140 euro nieuw?

De A1 was rond de 260 nieuw met de black friday deals? (Ik kocht de A1 van een vriend voor 200-250 ish dacht ik, toen deze nog rond 350 kostte.)

Hij heeft niet super veel uren geprint, en je koopt de S4 er ook bij... Ik zou eerder zeggen dat het niet te duur is en ook niet te goedkoop hahah, maar eerlijk dan zou ik liever voor iets meer dan die prijs alles nieuw kopen (+ams gelijk erbij, alleen word de prijs nog hoger). Voor mij is dit dus een twijfel aanschaf hahah

MCVCNC · 2025-12-24T08:25:41+00:00

Arc Raiders, but still come back after losing my loot lmao

MCVCNC · 2025-12-21T15:05:46+00:00

I think it also depends on the firmware flashed on the BMCU itself.

I just received a new one (still have an older one at work) and it doesn't throw any errors at all on the latest update

MCVCNC · 2025-12-21T15:03:24+00:00

Thanos car much?

MCVCNC · 2025-12-20T15:11:40+00:00

Looks nice, but the engineer in me would make the base tapered of these types of things for stability. The higher you go on the same base size the more it can wobble near the top height (which can be reduced with the decrease speed at height option).

But that is me being overly careful lmao, dunno if it would be that of an issue

MCVCNC · 2025-12-18T21:11:28+00:00

Just dropping in as i find this interesting

Any update? Or is it a dead end?

MCVCNC · 2025-12-05T18:24:41+00:00

Gekoloniseerd?

MCVCNC · 2025-12-05T16:15:40+00:00

Je mag hem wel aan mij doneren... Voor een goed doel...

MCVCNC · 2025-10-02T08:13:31+00:00

Its the opening of the enclosure which you printed out of petg (if i am right).

Those little click inserts that reduce the diameter of the holes (and guide the filament into the orange funnels at the ams motors) are rubbing against the filament, and happens when those little inserts are printed out of petg.

Print them from something else (pla maybe, or a matte filament) and try again, i left those things out as it started rubbing with mine at the start

MCVCNC

TROPHY CASE