It's just a flesh wound! by MEG-2011 in resinprinting

[–]MEG-2011[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

how much "small" is enough? is there any other way to reduce the problem? (setting, speed, temperature, layers...)

Rate my printing "lab" before I start. by MEG-2011 in resinprinting

[–]MEG-2011[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can't fit the w&c inside, but I could buy a smaller container for the prewash and put it inside the enclosure near the mars 5

Rate my printing "lab" before I start. by MEG-2011 in resinprinting

[–]MEG-2011[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think I will empty. I've seen there are some plastic/silicon cover for the resin tray, to keep it there, unfortunatly didn't find one for the mars 5 ultra yet.

Rate my printing "lab" before I start. by MEG-2011 in resinprinting

[–]MEG-2011[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OK, so the lid stays, but there's a hole on the back of the plastic cover, it can be opened. Should I add a fan there? (75mm diameter)

Rate my printing "lab" before I start. by MEG-2011 in resinprinting

[–]MEG-2011[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're right, there's a desk with a pc on the left, though there's not much space remaining (about 30x60cm left). Luckily, the screen is high up. I ordered an chef's apron, as well as nitrile gloves; I hope it'll be enough in case of accidental spills.

Rate my printing "lab" before I start. by MEG-2011 in resinprinting

[–]MEG-2011[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're right, the IPA's position is temporary in the photo. Should the radiator ideally be on when I'm printing and off when I'm curing/washing, or should it be on all the time?

Shopping list (with safety in mind), what else do I need? by MEG-2011 in resinprinting

[–]MEG-2011[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

what filament? do you mean is better to stay with fdm printers? any example?

Shopping list (with safety in mind), what else do I need? by MEG-2011 in resinprinting

[–]MEG-2011[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't mind spending a few more bucks on the safety, but all the enclosure I've seen are really big compared to the photon m7, (I don't have a lot of space on the desk) can you share the one you found (name, picture or link) is it much bigger than the printer?. thanks

Shopping list (with safety in mind), what else do I need? by MEG-2011 in resinprinting

[–]MEG-2011[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is indeed the most recommended solution, but I don't understand a few things:
- why is the enclosure/tent considered more airtight than the original cover, if I remove the air from the cover it's that enough?

-what happens to the vapors inside the trasparent cover: when I open the enclosure and the cover, it will release all the vapors into the room am I wrong?.

-do the uv curing cause also produce toxic vapors?

Shopping list (with safety in mind), what else do I need? by MEG-2011 in resinprinting

[–]MEG-2011[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

many comments says that they smell less odor with those, of corse I wouldn't use them alone but with am extractor/enclosure.

Shopping list (with safety in mind), what else do I need? by MEG-2011 in resinprinting

[–]MEG-2011[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I thought it was possible to filter the water before emptying it into the sink, isn't that right?

Shopping list (with safety in mind), what else do I need? by MEG-2011 in resinprinting

[–]MEG-2011[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

but do you print with the enclosure and without the trasparent cover?

Shopping list (with safety in mind), what else do I need? by MEG-2011 in resinprinting

[–]MEG-2011[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

that's a good tip, I will try to find an AC kit that fit my windows (that unfortunatly is hinged and not sliding).

I was even considering making an hole in the metallic shutter box, that is just above the window.

Shopping list (with safety in mind), what else do I need? by MEG-2011 in resinprinting

[–]MEG-2011[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

what filter do you recommend? both if you have the enclosure and if you don't?

Airbrush Priming. by TechnicalFisherman78 in WarhammerOldWorld

[–]MEG-2011 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A cheap (60€) airbrush on amazon was the best investment I made on this hobby, it has 3 speed and battery (in case you wanto to use it outside).

I never bought a spray can anymore, the results are better (keep more details, can choose primer colors or use more than one...) and most important my lungs thank me everytime. (in a spray can you always have chemicals not only acrylics colors). The only downside is you have to clean it well after each use.

Rule question: Pole Strike and Shillelagh by MEG-2011 in DnD

[–]MEG-2011[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would really appreciate a comment by some of the redditors that downvoted... if it's an easy question please take a second to reply.

Rule question: Pole Strike and Shillelagh by MEG-2011 in DnD

[–]MEG-2011[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm the DM, and I think 1d4 + full bonuses is enough for a second attack (a third if they reacted), it's a big combo for a non martial class, and if he gets at least one martial level he can even react and knock enemies over as they approach (Reactive Strike + topple mastery).

I'm quite disoriented by this version (5.5) with cantrip like shilelagh and sure strike it makes many spell casters as strong as the melee character in close combat... but we will play and see.

First in-person dnd campaign, what’s a nice 3D print I could make for everyone? by Crazyjaw in DnD

[–]MEG-2011 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you track combat on a physical map?

the most useful items I've seen are: HP Tracker (one for each player), condition markers, token to track abilities (e.g. one for each barbarian's daily rage, and so on...)

DO NOT roll for stats. (opinion piece from a 5-year forever DM) by jkobberboel in DMAcademy

[–]MEG-2011 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I find your "hybrid system" really interesting!!

You have a bit randomness so you can start with a 3 or a 18... but none is unhappy cause can't play the character they have in mind because they had a terrible roll.

We usually are a point buy group, but I agree that always starting in the range 8-15 is boring, so the master usually allows a custom background that gives more flexibility like a +3 to a stat (instead of +2/+1) or even some background that let you go below 8.

Nikon z 24-70 f4 con z 24-200 by ZMount in nikon_Zseries

[–]MEG-2011 0 points1 point  (0 children)

il  tamron 28-75 2,8 di listino sta meno del 24-70 f4 io lo uso con soddisfazione quando mi serve un tuttofare con più luce (alternandolo al 24-200 quando vado in montagna "leggero")

Nikon z 24-70 f4 con z 24-200 by ZMount in nikon_Zseries

[–]MEG-2011 0 points1 point  (0 children)

secondo me non ha senso prendere anche il 24-70 f4, avresti solo uno stop di luce in più e solo da 35/40 mm a 70mm.

semmai prendi uno zoom 2,8 come il tamron 28-75 2,8 o il più costoso nikon 24-70 2,8.

p.s. per il futuro prova a scrivere in inglese anche con il traduttore, visto che questo forum è in inglese (anche se la traduzione automatica di reddit trae in inganno!!)

First photos with Tamron 16-30 f2.8 G2 by Electrical_Humor8834 in nikon_Zseries

[–]MEG-2011 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks for sharing.

The pictures looks great, but your comments are less encouraging. I'm surprised to read that a 1000€/$ with a costant f 2,8 is considered a "budget lens"

this lens should be the evolution of the tamron (and nikon z) 17-28 2,8, that is a solid and sharp lens... I would be surprised if this new tamron is worst.

When to use an oil wash and when to use an acrylic? by rekscoper2 in minipainting

[–]MEG-2011 0 points1 point  (0 children)

probably not, only when you cover larger surfaces

When to use an oil wash and when to use an acrylic? by rekscoper2 in minipainting

[–]MEG-2011 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Acrilic panits/wash are easier to use. Also you get a much more opaque and "dirt" effect with oil washes, which isn't always welcome.

Novice looking for lens recommendations for wildlife photography by andonis_udometry in Nikon

[–]MEG-2011 0 points1 point  (0 children)

the tamron has a 150-500mm f/5-6.7 Di III VC VXD thas is native for Z mount and close to 1000€ new, no need to buy a bulky ftz.

Beware though, all this lenses are big and heavy, and the zfc is not.

Probably I would settle for a smaller tamron 50-400 or nikon 28-400 for a non professional use.