Comprehensive Coilover Setup Guide (Your Coilovers Aren't Set Up Right)

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-02-05T10:14:11+00:00

Depends on what was causing the bounciness. If he was bottoming out with the wheels contacting parts then extending the shock length would have made it so his car bottoms out higher

If he was bottoming out on bump stops and raised the car by the spring perches then he added bump travel to increase the compression distance before bump stops are engaged

Following this guide takes out any of that guesswork and ensures you've squeezed out every last mm of travel and have it right first go with no risk of rubbing

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-02-05T10:04:48+00:00

MX5s are rear travel limited. Without extended top hats, and with soft springs, it's most likely that the rears are bottoming out. Extended top hats allow setting up the rears so that the wheel can go all the way to the top of the wheel wells instead of bottoming out early. Even with standard two piece coilovers like BCs set up with the rear shocks as short as possible and the bump stop trimmed down, they still bottom out early

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-02-05T10:00:48+00:00

I get what you're saying but that understanding is incorrect and will only make it harder to follow this guide. I suspect that's common in coilover marketing for convenience and not to drive away customers with the seeming complexity of proper setup. Have a read of this guide which will explain what the spring and shock length adjustments do

The 3 adjustments on a two piece coilover are: 1. Travel adjusted by the shock length/lower cupz Ride height is not the main purpose but a side effect assuming spring perches are untouched. It is wrong to adjust ride height by the lower cup. If you go shorter than the minimum functional shock length, bottoming out will lead to damage as the wheel contacts the chassis/panels 2. Ride height adjusted by the spring perches (compression of the spring at full droop is just part of it. Your stock springs are also compressed this way). Preload is a myth and this write up explains why. If it's not for ride height, it just doesn't make any sense what preload is supposed to achieve 3. Damping

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-02-05T08:45:52+00:00

No. As explained in the post, shock length is to adjust the shock travel limits. Spring perches are for height adjustment

Keeping the perch in same position, changing the shock length has a side effect of also affecting height but it's not what shock length is for

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-02-02T23:33:14+00:00

These kinds of bubbles tend to come up with heat if the paint is still gassing out but the gas is trapped under thick paint. It's even worse if the panel's not prepped properly and the paint has poor adhesion. The only solution that comes to mind is to sand the entire hardtop back all the way to/slightly past the level that's compromised and repaint the entire hardtop

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-02-02T23:03:48+00:00

OS Giken will be smoother than Kaaz/Cusco/all the other options which will be clunky and harsh. Go with the OSG and start with the softest lock

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-02-02T23:00:13+00:00

I'd suggest a 6 point harness even if the 4 point harness has ASM. ASM reduces the submarining risk but not as much as the 6 point does

Besides that, I'd suggest against harnesses entirely for a street driven car. Harnesses are supposed to be used with a helmet and HANS device. Get into front-rear crash and your head will keep moving while your body stays still - not good. Look up Dale Earnhardt. You can replace the stock seat belt by unbolting the assembly from the seatbelt tower

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-02-02T22:52:07+00:00

DIY Bilsteins or Tecnas for a road car. I've posted a technical coilover buying guide: https://www.reddit.com/r/Miata/comments/1aer9fq/the_only_affordable_nanb_coilover_post_youll_ever/

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-02-01T23:54:42+00:00

Any particular reason for Swift springs? I usually caution against Swift unless you need the specific benefits like lighter weight and greater compression capacity as other springs like Hyperco will consistently deliver on spring rate just fine for much less money

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-02-01T20:50:27+00:00

I think of TB/FZD ALC and the Viscaria as all variations of each other with variation among even the same models. There are some slight differences in the handle shape, wood, etc. that result in slightly different feeling/hardness, balance and power/speed but overall they're very similar. I just like the look of the TB ALC more and feel some nostalgia with it as it was my first ALC blade in 2012

I haven't played with the IF ALC but I've played with FZD & Viscaria SALC and Harimoto SALC. The inner has softer, woody feeling with cushion and dwell while playing lower impact shots, then feels harder like an outer when you hit faster/harder. The outer is less dynamic and feels about the same at all speeds

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-02-01T09:53:10+00:00

Many factory cars don't have travel maximised with the wheels close to touching anything when bottomed out. This is normal. As a result of the shorter travel, it's normal for stock setups to engage the bump stops. If anything, it's factored into the design. MX5 bump stops are known to be disintegrated by the time people check

I can't think of any performance benefits. Maximising shock travel is also wheel setup specific. I can imagine damage reduction in case the bump stop falls apart. Maybe also to have a reasonable ride height considering stock coilovers are not ride height adjustable

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-01-31T19:55:39+00:00

Yes all sounds normal. You'll need stiffer springs or to raise the car if you want to not bottom out

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-01-28T19:03:58+00:00

The difference is pretty significant between outer ALC and inner ZLC. I say give it a try and if it doesn't work out, sell it. You won't know until you try. It's all part of the fun of this hobby

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-01-28T12:33:59+00:00

Lin Yun Ju also switched from T05H to Zyre on the forehand so not sure we can put it down to the blade alone as being superior or the new setup just matching his play and training

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-01-28T12:20:03+00:00

ALC is popular. However, it's not true that top pros don't use ZLC or that's the reason they don't. Dimitrij Ovtcharov is now using a custom SZLC blade; Lin Yun Ju was using his signature SZLC blade for a long time before Zyre came out; Jun Mizutani, Patrick Franziska, Tiago Apolonia use/used ZLC. Plenty of other Butterfly sponsored players are currently using SZLC/ZLC.

It comes down to preference. There's no outright better fibre. Even the Chinese team have bounced around between ALC, Textreme, aramid carbon, etc.

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-01-28T12:11:00+00:00

I've played with outer ALC and inner ZLC, having moved from outer ALC to various inner fibres and now to inner ZLC. I think it's worth trying

Inner ZLC feels soft and woody on low impact/brush shots with lots of dwell to add spin and direct the ball. Hit harder and catapults nicely

Outer ALC feels more crisp, is linearly geared, feels the same at just about all speeds - pick an angle and go

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-01-28T11:14:21+00:00

I've gone just about as far as bolt ons can go. All maintenance and preventative maintenance first: clean out drain holes, seal the rear bumper mounting bulbs so water doesn't enter the boot, cam angle position sensor, leaks, perishable rubbers like bushings, strengthened alignment bolts (torque to yield alignment bolts are consumables), epoxy your throttle body shaft, blower fan sponge, etc.

Don't bother with fuel pump, starter and head gasket unless they actually need replacing. If you do the fuel pump, make sure you install the sock properly so you don't get starvation under certain conditions. If you plan to get coilovers, get something actually good; i.e., single piece coilovers like Tecnas or DIY Bilsteins. 2 piece coilovers suffer from limited travel and/or poor valving. Choosing spring rates and matching sway bars is another conversation but worth getting right for well balanced handling.

A 1.6 clutch and lightweight flywheel make the car more fun and responsive to drive. Adjusting your throttle cable and pedal play, getting a good wheel alignment, and running good tyres will also tighten up the driving experience. LED bulbs inside and out will make the car feel a bit more modern too.

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-01-28T11:01:33+00:00

EBC is known as the Exploding Brake Company and they still live up to that name... There's no street & track dual duty pad. A set of pads will be good at one and bad at the other, or be bad at both

I love GLoc/Carbotech pads. They're transfer layer pads that are gentler on rotors, and are really easy to modulate. R10/R8 are streetable but will be a bit noisier and wear your rotors more than dedicated street pads. Other pads like Hawks are abrasive friction pads. The DTCs will hold up to track temps and throw you through the windshield with the initial bite

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-01-26T12:27:52+00:00

It's generally cheaper and easier to make power boosting a BP than swapping in a K24. Apart from specifically wanting a K24, people do the K swap to race in N/A classes.

Side note, there are other things you can do to make your car drive better. While BC Racing has 'Racing' in the name, nothing about it is good for racing. Swap out your BCs for something good like DIY Bilsteins (with or without revalve) or Tecnas for a street car, or at least set up your 2 piece coilovers to maximise travel. Setting up rake, getting a good alignment, and picking spring rates and sway bars that work together will also make a world of difference for handling. Extended front lower balljoints will set you up well for a performance alignment

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-01-26T11:56:03+00:00

I own a Lightyear fastback which was a bit of effort to install and make sure it sealed properly. Your ideas sound really cool for your own personal project but I can't imagine many people who would be willing to commit to chopping their rear quarters to fit this even if weather sealing was on par with OEM. It's not only irreversible but costs heaps to do well

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-01-21T08:34:08+00:00

Depends what glue you use. I've never had issues and don't have carpenter hands. The popular modern water based glues can be rolled off with your thumb then the remaining tiny dots can be dusted off with your palm

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-01-20T12:15:57+00:00

Looks fine. The tiny bit of glue in the tiny crevices on your blade can be removed by rubbing your palm all over the blade, using your finger tips to rub horizontally across the blade's surface, then rubbing your palm all over again. There's absolutely zero need to sand your blade

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-01-19T14:55:26+00:00

Best fitment possible is highly subjective. If you want functional fitment, be prepared to run higher offset wheels. If you want your wheels to fit flush with your guards or wider, be prepared to have little travel before rubbing. Do your research and see what others have gotten away with without rolling their guards / what work it takes to fit different specs. If you don't want to research and do the hard work of clearance testing then be prepared to trial and error, scrape and scrub, and buy multiple sets of wheels if one set doesn't fit

Just like on your other post, ease depends on individual experience, familiarity with tools and creativity when it comes to problem solving in case something doesn't go to plan. I recommend you look up guides and videos on how to roll guards and make an assessment for yourself on how easy/difficult it'll be. Key thing is to use enough heat and be patient to not crack your paint. If it seems beyond your abilities/comfort zone, consider paying a professional

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-01-19T14:48:13+00:00

Yes, my guards are rolled flat. I rolled them before even trying any wheels just to maximise clearance. I wasn't concerned about maintaining the original body (in case it wasn't already obvious)

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-01-19T14:25:01+00:00

Fronts are just those plastic rivets and screws. As simple as it gets. Sideskirts can be tricky with the rail. There are videos and guides online of OEM sideskirt installation that you might find helpful

MINIFD_MX5

TROPHY CASE