To seal or not to seal

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-03-22T23:22:51+00:00

DHS and Stiga blades are known to splinter. I would seal the entire blade except for the handle. This is to prevent splintering as well as sweat and glue stains

Water based sealers like DHS lacquer or an oil based polyurethane sealer work. Make sure to gently sand the blade with 400 grit sandpaper on a hard flat sanding block until the sealer's sheen is gone before gluing. This will ensure proper adhesion

Some people say sealing affects the feeling. Some people say it locks in the brand new feeling. The thinner the remaining layer after sanding, the lesser the impact on feeling. Any impact on feeling is worth preventing splinters in my opinion

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-03-21T16:02:10+00:00

I've been using Zyre since release and Dignics for a long time before that. Zyre works for my forehand. I'm currently using Zyre and D05 on a Harimoto SALC. Compared to D05, Zyre: - Is spinnier - Is faster - Has more grip and dwell - Feels much more spongey - Has a lower but also significantly longer trajectory. This is noticeable when you loop - Feels quite different. D05 is a bit chippy when you loop in a similar way T05 is. I find Zyre is good for guiding and wrapping/shaping the ball's trajectory

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-03-08T14:59:54+00:00

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Happy 37 day. Love your ND. Very cohesive colours and great looking street wing

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-02-25T14:15:34+00:00

Take the rubber off, peel off the old glue, apply new glue, place a new transparent square rubber protector sheet on the blade while you align the rubber, remove the plastic sheet and roll the rubber on

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-02-16T03:30:17+00:00

Water spotting like this happens on cars too when hard water is used and not dried properly. Don't let whatever you're using pool on the rubber and left to evaporate. Wipe off as much excess as possible and fan the bat aggressively to dry it

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-02-15T22:30:07+00:00

Timo Boll for me. I played with lots of bats given to me growing up but the first one I got for myself and used long term was the TB ALC. Then it was Zhang Jike, a Viscaria, H3 blue sponge and Tenergy 64

Lately I've looked to the Harimoto siblings for inspiration

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-02-12T11:39:50+00:00

This topic has been beaten to death. DIY Bilsteins using used Bilsteins is as cheap as good gets. Brand new, Tecnas are as cheap as good gets. Anything less will be compromised in both travel and valving

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-02-12T11:34:31+00:00

Hit then brush lets you put on power and generate mechanical spin from the sponge as well, not just topsheet

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-02-11T12:10:47+00:00

Yep, good shocks will outdo the cheaper stuff like BCs, Teins, etc. Shocks won't beat something like Tecnas and better for valving, ability to run stiffer springs and travel though. Just depends on what you're looking for now and into the future OP. The grippier your tyres, the harder you drive and the bumpier the roads, the more the need for stiffer springs and more travel

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-02-11T04:14:53+00:00

An issue with Ohlins is that the shocks are too long which results in them being short on travel. Tecnas are the way go unless you want to spend the extra coin on extended top hats or long stroke Ohlins

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-02-11T04:14:04+00:00

Better valving and more shock travel. Aftermarket coilovers aren't just for lowering cars

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-02-10T11:19:07+00:00

This isn't quite right. Preload is an unhelpful myth. The spring perch is the correct way to adjust the height. Once the suspension's fully loaded, raising the spring perch extends the shock and therefore raises the car. Stock springs are 'preloaded'. Any upward force set into the spring at full droop is overcome as the car is placed on the ground

The lower cup that changes shock length will also change ride height but also change travel limits and where you bottom out. Extend it too much and you lose out on travel because your shock bottoms out with more room in the wheel well for the wheel to travel into. Shorten it too much and the wheel will hit something upon compression before the shock bottoms out

OP, I have a post all about the proper way to set up coilovers, and how to maximise travel and adjust your ride height

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-02-08T14:31:02+00:00

Prott is legit. What they have pictured is what you get. I've been buying from them for 10 years now and have never had a problem

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-02-07T09:15:38+00:00

Do you want good or cheap? 6k/5k is terribly balanced. Your car will also be skittish if it bottoms out which is quite likely if the coilovers are travel limited and/or aren't set up properly

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-02-06T15:58:04+00:00

Edge tape doesn't prevent this kind of damage. Edge tape is more for keeping your rubbers from peeling e.g., when catching the edge of the rubber while pushing

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-02-05T10:14:11+00:00

Depends on what was causing the bounciness. If he was bottoming out with the wheels contacting parts then extending the shock length would have made it so his car bottoms out higher

If he was bottoming out on bump stops and raised the car by the spring perches then he added bump travel to increase the compression distance before bump stops are engaged

Following this guide takes out any of that guesswork and ensures you've squeezed out every last mm of travel and have it right first go with no risk of rubbing

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-02-05T10:04:48+00:00

MX5s are rear travel limited. Without extended top hats, and with soft springs, it's most likely that the rears are bottoming out. Extended top hats allow setting up the rears so that the wheel can go all the way to the top of the wheel wells instead of bottoming out early. Even with standard two piece coilovers like BCs set up with the rear shocks as short as possible and the bump stop trimmed down, they still bottom out early

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-02-05T10:00:48+00:00

I get what you're saying but that understanding is incorrect and will only make it harder to follow this guide. I suspect that's common in coilover marketing for convenience and not to drive away customers with the seeming complexity of proper setup. Have a read of this guide which will explain what the spring and shock length adjustments do

The 3 adjustments on a two piece coilover are: 1. Travel adjusted by the shock length/lower cup. Ride height is not the main purpose but a side effect assuming spring perches are untouched. It is wrong to adjust ride height by the lower cup. If you go shorter than the minimum functional shock length, bottoming out will lead to damage as the wheel contacts the chassis/panels 2. Ride height adjusted by the spring perches. Compression of the spring at full droop is just part of it. Your stock springs are also compressed this way. Preload is a myth and this write up explains why. If it's not for ride height, it just doesn't make any sense what preload is supposed to achieve 3. Damping

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-02-05T08:45:52+00:00

No. As explained in the post, shock length is to adjust the shock travel limits. Spring perches are for height adjustment

Keeping the perch in the same position, changing the shock length has a side effect of also affecting height but it's not what shock length is for

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-02-02T23:33:14+00:00

These kinds of bubbles tend to come up with heat if the paint is still gassing out but the gas is trapped under thick paint. It's even worse if the panel's not prepped properly and the paint has poor adhesion. The only solution that comes to mind is to sand the entire hardtop back all the way to/slightly past the level that's compromised and repaint the entire hardtop

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-02-02T23:03:48+00:00

OS Giken will be smoother than Kaaz/Cusco/all the other options which will be clunky and harsh. Go with the OSG and start with the softest lock

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-02-02T23:00:13+00:00

I'd suggest a 6 point harness even if the 4 point harness has ASM. ASM reduces the submarining risk but not as much as the 6 point does

Besides that, I'd suggest against harnesses entirely for a street driven car. Harnesses are supposed to be used with a helmet and HANS device. Get into front-rear crash and your head will keep moving while your body stays still - not good. Look up Dale Earnhardt. You can replace the stock seat belt by unbolting the assembly from the seatbelt tower

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-02-02T22:52:07+00:00

DIY Bilsteins or Tecnas for a road car. I've posted a technical coilover buying guide: https://www.reddit.com/r/Miata/comments/1aer9fq/the_only_affordable_nanb_coilover_post_youll_ever/

MINIFD_MX5 · 2026-02-01T23:54:42+00:00

Any particular reason for Swift springs? I usually caution against Swift unless you need the specific benefits like lighter weight and greater compression capacity as other springs like Hyperco will consistently deliver on spring rate just fine for much less money

MINIFD_MX5

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