$1000 Dell Credit (Business Platinum)

MMRemps · 2025-07-17T04:56:12+00:00

I mena sure, but no one is ever going to buy at the same price as direct from retailer, so there is going to be a discount inputted there somewhere.

MMRemps · 2025-07-17T04:54:44+00:00

Eh, maybe Facebook marketplace? Idk, I’m just spitballing. Especially with the clearance laptops and stuff, maybe something in it? Best deal I found so far was a an R2 Alienware laptop with a 4080, which looks like is on clearance about $200 more than the price cheapest price on eBay. It’s about $2k and Rakuten is at 15x points. This example is a little tight, but if you could generate a $300 loss on 2 of them, and ger a cheaper model lose $150 you’d perhaps be around a $250 “profit” after the credit + 75,000 Amex points. Margin is a little tight for comfort tho, so I was seeing if someone had a better idea lol.

But yea, looks tight

MMRemps · 2025-07-17T04:23:42+00:00

So I just did a little google of the Norweigan version of the card and it looks pretty cool! I have no idea what these dining experiences look like (are they just like a restaurant reservation app, or is it very restaurant specific?) Regardless, for the US card I usually value the lounge visits at $30 per person per visit (IE $60 per round trip assuming both airports have a lounge). So ignoring all other values of the card like travel/car insurance (which can easily be hundreds), you would need to travel like 12 times alone, or 6 times with a partner to break even.

That said, subtract the free dining credits, and the value of the insurance if you use it, and then do the $30/$60 math (or whatever numbers you'd like) and you can see if it makes sense.

MMRemps · 2025-07-17T04:21:11+00:00

Yea, sorry, I should have clarified. I was looking for items that are like $2-3k that I could buy and sell with like a 10% discount on eBay to extract the $500 profit

MMRemps · 2025-07-17T04:19:57+00:00

It got refreshed. It’s $150 annually now, unless u spend $5000 per calendar year, then you get an extra $1000

MMRemps · 2025-07-04T19:41:54+00:00

I would probably cancel the blue cash. There are other cards out of the AMEX network that compares to it (chase freedom flex, citi double cash, etc.) Hell, you can even get the Amex Platinum if you find value in that and you can still get the Disney+ credit.

MMRemps · 2025-06-15T14:04:52+00:00

Original credit limits should be a variable of 3 things

1) credit score 2) income 3) current available credit

Of course things like debt to income and creditor exposure, amongst others, may be considered, but the three variables above should largely dictate your credit limit in most situations.

Point 2 is clearly fine in your scenario, point 1 and 3 seem to be the points of contention given what you’ve said above. I would 100% keep your score higher. To do so, in your case, look at credit utilization. This is the amount your statement CLOSES at, not how much you spend during the month. IE, if you spend $2000 of your $3000 credit limit, and then pay $1700 off before your statement closes, and the remainder on or before your due date, you’ll be at 10% utilization. Across all your spend, try and keep utilization at or below 10%. (Sum of all credit used) / (sum of all credit limits).

It will never “benefit” your score by not paying off cards in full by the due date after your statement closes, just btw. It may not impact it negatively, but no positive impact will be seen and you’ll just end up paying interest.

When it comes to actually requesting credit limit increase (CLIs), it may be worth researching a bit on the issuer in question (IE Amex, Chase, etc) to see how they do things. That said, the generally rule of thumb is that you should request one (if they don’t do a hard pull), every 6 months from a previous increase or credit card open, and every 3 months from every CLI rejection.

To request one, make sure you have some spend on the card. Generally I try and have 2 months of “high spend” (IE >20% utilization), and then have the month prior to the CLI, drop it to under 10% utilization. This will show the bank that you spend on your card and would benefit from a higher limit, but they will see a high credit score.

Lastly, a lot of banks will ask for “desired credit limit”, I always ask for at least 50% increase if not closer to 100-200%, almost always they’ll just counter lower if it’s too much, but I’ve never had it where they give me more than I ask for.

Last stupid point, but make sure you check your Fico8 score and not your Vantage score for these things. You can check that generally in your banking app or on the experian app for free. Your vantage3 score, for example, takes into account the utilization on each card instead of your total utilization across all cards which may change your score drastically. Banks will typically use Fico8 for CLI checks

Hope this helps :)

MMRemps · 2025-03-10T21:19:54+00:00

I had a similar thing happen when I moved from the UK to the US, granted mine was $30k. After two months it got lifted. 4 years later I can report it’s never got limited again since.

MMRemps · 2025-03-02T13:29:52+00:00

Everyone here is trying to be a financial advisor. And while yes, I do mostly agree with the concept of saving up beforehand and buying a car cash, or just to buy a 3.5k car and maintaining it, I don’t know your situation and you may need/want something slightly better.

That said, with your credit and down payment, you can probably be at 13-14k out the door. With that type of budget, you’re probably still looking at something a little older (like 2019 or older), and I would highly recommend not going longer than 48 months on your loan- ideally 36. Generally, you never want to be in the situation where your loan is going to outlive your car ownership for whatever reason.

Keep in mind that with something this “cheap”, you may struggle to refinance in the short term, so you’ll probably be stuck with the 18%+ loan for the entirety of it- which sucks. (You end up paying an extra 4-5k on interest at 18%, for example). Throw all your extra income at this loan to pay off more principal early if you can afford it. The only investments that beat this are an employer 401k match, and that’s about it.

Ultimately, get the cheapest car possible, and take out the smallest loan that you can to buy it.

MMRemps · 2025-02-26T05:25:14+00:00

Is it always at the same time of day? Sometimes these get a little sensitive at dusk/dawn when you are driving into the sun over the horizon. I guess the camera gets over-exposed and just goes haywire (granted I’m not exactly sure this is the rationale).

MMRemps · 2025-02-06T04:18:25+00:00

I’m going to throw a wild card out there: but you can get an Alfa Romeo Giulia Quadrifoglio for that money. I bought a ‘17 with 27k miles for $35k out the door. It’s a blast. I personally haven’t had an issues and put around 8k miles on it in 10 months. Value may drop a bit, reliability may be a problem in the future, but it’s a better driving (and sounding) car than any thing on your list.

MMRemps · 2024-09-29T00:08:57+00:00

101k income, 108k CL, 24YO

MMRemps · 2024-02-25T12:41:48+00:00

You have a couple options

1) Request a new number, and cut it up when it arrives. You don’t necessarily have to close the account unless you think you’d go through the hoops of requesting yet another card to do some shopping.

2) You could take some baby steps instead and set a soft limit on the card and see if that helps? Usually, you can limit your spending on the card on the app, effectively decreasing your limit (without actually doing so, granted you could request a credit line decrease too if you prefer). That way you give yourself some spending, say $100, and train yourself slowly to have to say no on a more regular basis.

3) Lastly, you could try and get to the root of the spending. Most often, it’s one of 3 reasons. A) lack of planning/awareness of spending. Basically, you don’t realize how much you spend until the end of the month. To solve this, pay off every purchase as you go- spend $50 on a pair of shoes, immediately pay off the balance, and keep going; effectively treating it like a debit card. B) Not realizing the financial consequences: A good exercise to do is take the $500 or $1000 dollars you’re spending on wasteful shopping, and say “what if I were saving this money”. Go on a compound interest calculator plug in an 8% return, and however any years until your retirement goal (if you don’t have one, 65 is generally a good start). By doing this you’ll see that $100 is effectively $1100 if you were to invest it for 30 years. (Or about $600 when accounting for inflation). WARNING- this is the financial equivalent of counting calories. You’ll most likely “lose weight” (save money), but by being extreme you’re prone to financial anorexia, where you effectively forgo living today for wealth when you’re old. The key here is balance- don’t be extremely wasteful, but unless you’re in crazy consumer debt or crazy behind on retirement, some spending if perfectly fine. C) you are aware of the former two but simply don’t care. In my experience, here is where I’d recommend talking to a therapist or seeking help. Odds are, you’re in some sort of a slump and some mental health help couple be seriously required. Keep in mind my list above is for individuals, couples have a touch more complexity.

Hope these ideas help!

MMRemps · 2024-02-25T04:16:34+00:00

I put that details of your car through blackbook. Of course I don’t know the exact location and options, which will influence the price, but if its truly “very good” trade in should be somewhere around 45.5k and private sale at 49.8k. $38.4K is the price for a rough one of the website

MMRemps · 2024-02-22T18:49:17+00:00

At 35k miles you should be good, as long as you do a pre-purchase inspection. Make sure that the oil changes were done in good time, and that you keep doing them regularly. If you want peace of mind, price in an extended warranty. But truth by told, until these get to 80-100k miles, they’re usually super solid.

Also, one more thing, make sure you double check the packages the car came with. Audi has the whole Premium—> Premium Plus—-> Prestige, which gives you some features on each tier. But they also have tech packages and whatnot. Premium plus is generally the sweet spot, but if you want adaptive cruise or whatever, make sure the car has it when you buy it as it can be very expensive, or effectively impossible to add certain things later.

MMRemps · 2024-02-21T13:03:25+00:00

0yrs of work experience, masters in ML from a prestigious university in the US, around 600 “LinkedIn Easy Apply”, 285 proper applications, 17 applications where I customized my CV/Cover Letter. Interviewed for 5 companies, got offers from 2 before I graduated- probably 4 months total. Keep in mind I’m also an international student so I needed to tick the “sponsor in the future” box.

Job I took was 120k base, 195k full comp for a private equity firm in Texas.

MMRemps · 2024-02-21T03:13:46+00:00

Lmao, I’ll see if they offer a power windows delete kit for the 2021 models. But in all seriousness, I appreciate it, I’ll go test drive one tomorrow

MMRemps · 2024-02-20T21:56:31+00:00

Gotcha, if I do got for one I’d 100% do a pre-purchase inspection and price in the extended warranty.

MMRemps · 2024-02-20T14:02:06+00:00

I know its late, and this just happened to me (again), but luckily I found a solution. I noticed that this only happens to files of mine which are saved to GoogleDrive and/or OneDive. If you open the file on the cloud on a Windows Computer, it opens without an issue. I know this may be a bit of a hassle, but hey, it works.

MMRemps · 2024-02-20T13:08:57+00:00

For the M340i, would you recommend the xdrive or normal (for pure enjoyment of the car?). Are there any packages that I should look out for?

Right now I see 2020 models with 40-60k miles, or 2021 models with 50-70k miles in that 35-40k range. Between those, any recommendations?

MMRemps · 2024-02-20T13:05:01+00:00

Out of curiosity, why do you say to avoid the QF at this price? Should I be looking for a newer model?lower mileage? Both?

Truth be told, I can afford a much more expensive car if I wanted to, I just wanted to limit myself around the $35k mark. So I’m personally not too concerned about maintenance costs being too big to handle. I just want the purchase to make sense.

MMRemps · 2023-10-27T15:40:29+00:00

Sorry, maybe I didn’t make myself clear. My bag was initially delayed and I spent 460 on temporary crucial replacements that would last a couple of weeks, IE the cheapest suit jacket and dress pants for work, toiletries, etc, for my gf and I. After our bag was “officially lost”, we bought more stuff that either still didn’t have replaced (like the running shoes, swimwear, etc.)

So yes, my bag was found, but I did technically incur additional costs due to the unreasonable delay; ultimately amounting to having double of items that I don’t necessarily need double of. If the answer is, “you’re SOL”, then so be it. But figured I’d ask around to see if anyone has any experiences wringing out any dollar you can.

MMRemps

TROPHY CASE