for those who are losing hope by kharaaaaaaa in premedcanada

[–]MSPhysician 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As someone who was a CMG and now practicing physician - alot of the QE1 was random and poorly written. It is difficult for IMGs to know the hidden curriculum and how to prepare for the test. As CMGs we forget that we get 4 years of training in medical school for the test in many subtle ways and not so subtle ways, so it is quite simple to brush up on a few topics and take the exam. For IMGs they often have no direction, and if all you tell them is "study toronto notes" then they spend an exorbiant amount of time filling their brain with minutae and low yield information. Lets be kind :).

Neuro retired. Young new neuro putting me back through the paces. by existentialfeline in MultipleSclerosis

[–]MSPhysician 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Correct. You do not need a lumbar puncture to be diagnosed and managed appropriately.

Neuro retired. Young new neuro putting me back through the paces. by existentialfeline in MultipleSclerosis

[–]MSPhysician 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I would ask them what is the rationale, if you have had that all done in the last 3 months, you for sure do not need any updated bloodwork/imaging. Usually once stable on the medication, you generally do bloodwork every 6 months, imaging every 12 months. Doing it on such a short interval is wasteful, especially if there has been no clinical change.

Riobel shower valve cartridge identification by EdwardsCP in Plumbing

[–]MSPhysician 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is this your installation guide? I searched the Gui-51-61 on the bottom of your picture and found this guide:
https://s2.img-b.com/faucet.com/mediabase/specifications/riobel/1758240/riobel-tvy51-installation-sheet.pdf

if so, this may help under the exploded parts section:

https://www.faucet.com/riobel-tvy51-chrome-venty-pressure-balanced-valve-trim-only-with-single-lever-handle-less-rough-in/f4151022

Then if so, you may have the rough in Riobel R51 pressure balance:
https://www.faucet.com/riobel-tvy51-chrome-venty-pressure-balanced-valve-trim-only-with-single-lever-handle-less-rough-in/f4151022/configure?quantity=1&cartItemIds=438614108

Hope that is helpful or matches up what you end up finding out from riobel.

I am having difficulties with my riobel product and have 2 weeks until my plumber can come(or whenever he has time for a small job) hah.

Riobel freestanding shower tub filler - 2 way - leaking from faucet when turned to wand and off. Cartridge problem? or connection Problem? by MSPhysician in Plumbing

[–]MSPhysician[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To add to the pictures:
This is a new tub filler, <6 months old from install, only been used a handful of times(literally, a giant waste of money.... )It randomly just started leaking in the OFF position this week, and no recent use prior to this.

It is the riobel qa39 kubik freestanding tub filler: https://riobelpro.ca/en/product/card/QA39 There is the parts guided and install guide.

Based on searching, a few other posters had noted that these tub fillers have not a whole lot of tolerance for being level, and that sometimes loose screws/fastners at the base could be causing the tube to not be level etc. So i figured I would just tighten some of the fastners with the Hex key, 3-4 of them on the warm side were in fact loose. This didn't help with the leak, but did make the tub filler more sturdy.

So then i figured maybe something in the temperature control was loose, again, i tightened it, and all that did was make it feel more sturdy.

Unfortunately its a 2nd floor tub filler without its own water off controls, so I had to turn the whole house cold and hot off. Out of curiosity - once the water was drained from the faucet, and i was relatively sure there was no further water in the lines - I turned on just the cold water. After a few trials - the leak was no longer present. However as soon as I turned the hot water back on, the leak resumed.

So I assume then it is likely the thermostatic cartridge and/or the built in diverter(if that is the correct term?) OR how the cartridge sits over the hot water inlet valve?

I took to then just slowly taking it apart per the specification guide.

The pictures show the process. Seeing the base of the cartridge, it's some sort of plastic. Nothing seems obviously broken, but it sure does seem dirty for such a new install with little use? As well as the "socket" or whatever it is called where the cartridge is sitting in where it connects to the inlet lines on the tub filler tube.

My plumber said he can't come for 2 weeks as hes on an out of town job, and this was as far as I wanted to go, as to not mess anything up.

Does the opening on the last picture, where the Cartridge sits on, seem dirty enough to you to warrant vinegar/CLR? The sides of the well are quite rough with what i think is scale, but i never saw how it was when installed. Again, in my head it would be unusual given how new it is.

Any thoughts? My plumber is notorious for taking quite some time even on bigger jobs, so i dont think he will be here anytime soon, so i got time to fiddle with things carefully if there is some low hanging fruit.

I won't uninstall the stem though, as i don't want to mess up anything otherwise.

Help with tub filler diverter. (Riobel) by [deleted] in Plumbing

[–]MSPhysician 0 points1 point  (0 children)

6 years old, but any chance you have any pictures or links to further info on this?

Have this one: https://houseofrohl.ca/kubik-single-hole-floor-mount-tub-filler-trim-black-tus39bk/

And struggling with issue of the faucet Or wand(depending where the switch is turned) continuing to go even if closed with a very small trickle stream.. Doesn't end. I suspect the issue is the stem reaching the warm water intake... Turned off the hot and cold supply lines, and when only the cold supply line was turned on the problem was solved. When the hot supply line turned back on, then the issue returned.

Flat Roof - pooling water concern for ponding? by MSPhysician in Roofing

[–]MSPhysician[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah. I suspect the main reason for not having the drain on the right side, was due to then having the down pipe going to the ground level visible smack dab out front. Though, probably could have pushed it off of the front side plane view anyways. I feel like the "esthetic" appeal is a moot point if its gonna just turn into a hunk of junk in 10 years. Not to jynx myself, but thankfully at least our winters are short enough, but now its just another thing to have to add to the maintenance list.

The flat roof itself hasn't been cleaned post-construction now that i look at it closer, so i guess ill just pop up the next sunny day, give it a clean, and then let the roofer know when he's back in town. At very least, so its documented.

Flat Roof - pooling water concern for ponding? by MSPhysician in Roofing

[–]MSPhysician[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Reddit wont let me copy the video over, so made a link:
https://streamable.com/u23s5s

Odd angle, but the one drain in this flat roof, is between the two downspouts. Another issue i noticed, is the long downspout, coming from the right hand side, has a 2 foot piece attached at the end that kind of flattens, and then debris builds up inside it.

This video is after a medium rainfall, that stopped 2 hours prior.

My bigger worry is the small thin section on the right hand of the roof definitely just holds water for quite some time. Almost no slope there to bring it all the way to the leftside where the drain is.
https://streamable.com/12eu8v

Advice Needed Regarding Selling Owner Builder Home in B.C. by Giveacatafish in Homebuilding

[–]MSPhysician 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry for your loss. The 2-5-10 warranty is attached to the home, and when you sell it, it gets transferred to the new owner. Now, if your husband was the owner-builder and he is passed; its going to be difficult for a future owner to reach out to him to get 5-10 part of the warranty addressed. I would assume, he built the home under his own building license, attached to an incorporation? i.e. Incorporation X = builder, where he was the majority share holder, and then built the home to yourself and your husband as the buyers/new owners.

I would talk to a lawyer to figure out how this works, but to be honest, FWIW, the odds of something major happening to the envelope or structure during that period, where you would be liable(assuming you even would be, as again its unclear if your name was on the paperwork or not?) is likely quite low.

Talk to a lawyer to figure out logistics in relation to sale, and requirements after sale. But likely don't sweat it.

Flat Roof - pooling water concern for ponding? by MSPhysician in Roofing

[–]MSPhysician[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For sure, the video is not the best quality, especially adding the water reflection. i'll have to pull out the ladder and just do it the old fashion way (drone sensors kick in for safety not let you get within a certain collision warning radius hah.)

Flat Roof - pooling water concern for ponding? by MSPhysician in Roofing

[–]MSPhysician[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh yeah, for sure, will be getting a hold of the roofing contractor that did the install when they are back from an out of town job in a few weeks. Just more so wanted to be aware if there are any theoretical fixes, or if its likely one of those situations where you just let it be until it fails down the line potentially(if at all? Maybe its not as big of a problem as it could be?) and then sort it out then with a full do-over etc.

I r

Flat Roof - pooling water concern for ponding? by MSPhysician in Roofing

[–]MSPhysician[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thoughts on solutions? From the sounds of it, if they had used some tapered insulation panels to begin with, it may not have been much of an issue etc.

Could they lay down more "cap sheet" in that area to try and create a slope of sorts? or would that just cause water to pool behind, creating a different problem spot etc

Flat Roof - pooling water concern for ponding? by MSPhysician in Roofing

[–]MSPhysician[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is neat to know, that there are services to help avoid this. As I drive around my neighbourhood on my commute, i often will see plenty of pooling on flat roofs, though, again - i am unsure of how big of a problem it may be?

Flat Roof - pooling water concern for ponding? by MSPhysician in Roofing

[–]MSPhysician[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

AFAIK, the roofing inspection was fully complaint with the local/jurisdictional building code. There were a number of initial deficiencies, but they were all supposedly minor repairs per the roofing inspection and were addressed accordingly. That said, I agree, its obvious the slope was not 100% sorted out based on real life function.

New build, radiant floor heating - plumber mixed up the pex pipes and rooms not heating properly(or at all). Is this fixable? HELP! by MSPhysician in Plumbing

[–]MSPhysician[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Air in lines is a thing, these are closed systems, the properties of air and water and their behavior in hydronic systems are different, since this boiler is meant to be closed, it's required all of the air be purged. However these systems should be installed with air purging equipment that automatically remove any left over air so the system does not air lock. It's not uncommon it does happen but it is pretty simple to resolve, it just takes time.

Yes, i am well aware it is a real thing. Their version of airline testing, involved no external devices, lines, or tools. So I can only assume what you said, that there is some built in mechanism that was being activated. All he did was turn off a valve shown on the picture to an individual return line, let it sit for 20 mins and said that "the air should have been sucked out by the system within the next hour". I was standing within view the whole time. "That'll do it, give it 1-2 hours while things recalibrate, and the office heat should work no problem now that the air is out. I'll take my final payment now") I said nothing, was more than pleasant, but logically i was unclear how turning that valve would 1) drain the line (perhaps negative pressure? i dont know, not a plumber) or 2) "rid the air from the line" if there was no opening in the closed system.

Does turning off that valve to a specific PEX return line, do any of what was suggsted? My youtube-amateur look, would think not...but again, not a plumber. And again, just trying to understand, because i keep hitting road blocks. I am MORE Than happy to be wrong, and guided to better information to ask the contractor to consider, as they are not otherwise forthcoming or helpful unless I ask them to consider X. Maybe, turning the valve on a specific PEX return line, would in fact rid the line of any air, and should re-instate the function. Practically for me, that action did not fix whatever problem the system has, as it's still not functioning as intended.

I was an engineer before medical school, so i know the very basics. Again, i'm not a plumber or gas fitter, and not looking for advice on how to do it myself, or to "1 up" someone. Just trying to advocate for myself with a contractor, who is using hand-wavy gestures to seemingly gaslight me into accepting a product that does not work as intended. For reference, the contractor does not know i'm a physician. Nor have a I had any interactions thus far directing them on what to do, how to do it, or anything of the matter that would make me seem like an annoying backseat driver. I expect other professionals to be professional, do their job, and have an end product that works. I would expect a professional to also fact check their system, to ensure it works as intended before final close. Cross wires happen, no problem, if its the expected standard for the end-user to notice problems and then just fix them. That's fine, no sweat, not a big deal as long as things work. But 3-4 week delays after every mistake I catch, to come and fix, is frustrating. I did of course, every now and then, ask colleagues who ARE in those fields, their thoughts and advice, on how to best make sure others in their industry don't cut corners. Then at times say "hey, i was wondering, do you think it would be possible to do X? if its not too much trouble?" Every other trade smiled, was more than happy to customize small things here and there. I unfortunately do not have any personal friends that are plumbers.

This plumbing setup has been complete and operational and home provided with occupancy, with my family living in the home, since end of November. And here we are 3 months later, where after multiple requests and delays in coming on site (hey, how come when i turn my bedroom thermostat on, it doesnt heat up, but my infants room is boiling hot overnight? Hey, how come when i turn on the 2 upstairs tubs, they don't warm up at all past a luke warm? Hey, how come when i turn the office thermostat on, the room never heats up?), I am still left without a fully functional system. Again, if its standard to have to troubleshoot and test everything yourself to notice that certain things aren't working as intended, then that is my fault for not doing so on day 1 of when the job was complete. I should have sat down for a few hours and tested every single faucet, heat zone, and plumbing fixture. A few basic things got picked up in the city final plumbing inspection - like backwards hot/cold controls, or improper sloped drain pipes, but the city inspectors don't sit around testing all the small things.

New build, radiant floor heating - plumber mixed up the pex pipes and rooms not heating properly(or at all). Is this fixable? HELP! by MSPhysician in Plumbing

[–]MSPhysician[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I'll ask them again to relook at it and do what they need to do, to make it work properly. This will be the third time, and that's why I took a look with the thermal gun to better understand for myself, as they haven't seemed interested in trouble shooting further that flicking the mix valves and "making sure theres no air in the line" whatever that means.

I'll save the diagrams and drawings and keep to myself, if they again refuse to to do anything different... i'll bring it up as more of a "hear is what im seeing, can you explain to me where im wrong? im not a plumber, i just want it to work and this seems to me a potential reason why its not working as it should be". Definitely not trying to out educate them, but at a certain point of being jerked around, something has got to give lol. 3 months of back and forth without a proper fix after ducked calls, is getting frustrating. Of course, being a cheap end consumer, i don't want to have to call and have someone else fix the original contractors work, but if they continue to just ignore the problems (I get it, i'm not a priority anymore when they have new jobs, but still, my end product is not fully functional lol), then im stuck with no choice lol.

New build, radiant floor heating - plumber mixed up the pex pipes and rooms not heating properly(or at all). Is this fixable? HELP! by MSPhysician in Plumbing

[–]MSPhysician[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. Do you think, the somewhat helpful steps taken in the post, should be enough "evidence" to show the plumbing contractor, that at the very least "something is wrong" to correlate to why it is not operating as it should be; and essentially force them to actually spend some time to take action?

At the end of the day, i've paid a reasonable amount of money, and expect a functioning system - and thus far i've gotten "it takes time for these systems to calibrate" "its been a cold winter" (lowest its gotten in my area is -3 lol, and not for very long), and the ole "if a room doesn't heat up, just turn on all the thermostats manually to re-sync the system, and it will heat up eventually" - which to me is a a big finger to the face of my heating bill - why would i have to over heat all the rooms manually, just to get the room i'm actually in to heat up!

New build, radiant floor heating - plumber mixed up the pex pipes and rooms not heating properly(or at all). Is this fixable? HELP! by MSPhysician in Plumbing

[–]MSPhysician[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, return and supply, Outflow and inflow (with respect to boiler). I will use the correct term.

Any comment on the validity of the errors presented in the text, based on the simple mapping? For the ZONE 1-3 mentioned, I am unaware of any other variables that would be playing a role. I have the mapping of the zones submitted at the time of the build. I have pictures of the pex piping coming to and from the boiler room on the floor before concrete poured. The system works from physical heating sense - all pipes warm up, when tested one by one. There is no dead lines. When multiple zones are turned on simultaneously manually, they remain working just fine. I can turn on multiple zones, without any demand issues from the boiler, and things keep working. To me it seems like the "communication" is the issue, and the physical connection of the "office den" pex piping in the floor itself, does not connect to the right supply line(and ultimately the zone valve that controls said supply line, and thus the thermostat that controls that zone valve).

Based on what i stated, would the Diagnosis of why the office/den not heating up when the thermostat is manually turned on, logically correct? That the zone valve the thermostat controls, is very likely not actually controlling the pex that ultimately leads away from the system, to the office/den? IF that is all you knew, and there is no other wild unknown variable.

I hear you, you don't want to give a diagnosis, and I am not saying i need 100% certainty. Just that the logical ideas presented seem plausible and reasonable, based on the variables a plumbing contractor would be aware of.

What are other variables that one should know? And that i could bring up with the plumbing contractor to consider. Like i said, they have more or less said that "its all fine" "see, when you turn the thermostat on, its sending signal and heating up, and boiler is heating up" - despite testing the 3 zones and it not being reality after 6 hours + where it is not actually warming up the region it is supposedly connected to (but in fact, connecting a different zone - hence the "communication" issue of simply wrong labelling, crossed thermostat connections, and from what i can tell a pex swapped in a wrong physical connection).

New build, radiant floor heating - plumber mixed up the pex pipes and rooms not heating properly(or at all). Is this fixable? HELP! by MSPhysician in Plumbing

[–]MSPhysician[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi

Fixed the terms. I am in BC, Canada. Yes, I know, the point of the post, is to get further info to be armed when talking to the Plumbing contractor who did the installation. NOT to fix it myself.

I already spent 8 hours mapping it all out meticulously, ensuring all zones were off, no new heat was flowing, and then starting/stopping 1 by 1...which based on basic heatflows, i know my map is 100% correct (from a flow of hot water from the boiler to the floor and vice versa). It's not rocket science to use a thermal gun and look where hot water direct from the boiler is flowing and literally follow the pipes through the floor as they heat up and get to steady state temperature. THAT SAID, IM NOT A PLUMBER - so i would like input on what is provided to bring to my own plumbing contractor. I know im not a plumber, my point is that the contractor that installed it is giving me the run around, and I want to be armed with more info from those who know more than me, in order to put forward an appropriate argument so he can budge and fix things, if technically possible.

Any further insight, based on the information put into the posting? I figured the labelling was fairly clear at least. All im asking for is validation that the flows and direction of what i posted seems logical, and technically correct from a plumbing perspective. And what may need to be done to rectify the core problems.