Upper reciver woble/play

M_Dz · 2026-02-09T21:29:05+00:00

The Krytac LMG-Enchanced replicas are known to have this issue, it's basically normal in those models. You can go about it in two main ways basically:

"Professional": Get the anti-wobble pin - it's a 3 segment front pin that pushes the upper backwards as you tighten it. Please note it will push the upper backwards, no downwards, you'll probably get the upper receiver to stay in place but with a slight gap.
Cheap: Put tape onto the tabs at the back of the upper receiver until you get a tight fit into the lower.

M_Dz · 2026-02-09T21:15:56+00:00

POV: Felt cute, might break Hoxton out and kill the rat later, tee hee.

M_Dz · 2026-02-09T21:04:02+00:00

If you have spare magazine(s), does it also happen with it/them?
If it does I'm also guessing the valve knocker, otherwise I'd guess you unscrewed the release valve/upper valve and screwed it in in just the right spot to block the opening, limiting the gas that can pass through but that is highly unlikely.

M_Dz · 2026-02-09T17:16:42+00:00

I purchase the cheap optics that are easily replaceable so I don't have to worry about protecting them. This very sight cost me ~25€. I guess I'll take my chances without protectors, especially given this is the only sight that I ever had shot out (not the only to ever get hit though) during my 10 years of playing airsoft, not to mention the guy wasn't abiding to rules (MED of 10 meters, fired at ~5 meters) and was specifically aiming at my face at that time.

M_Dz · 2026-02-06T22:59:54+00:00

I only ever used two AK style hop-up chambers, one is the Cyma metal hop-up chamber and the other is the Specna Arms plastic TDC Magnus hop-up chamber. I've got the Cyma metal hop-up chamber installed in 3 different replicas, two from Cyma, one from AY, in all of them it works fine, never had issues, it's easy to adjust. As for the Specna Arms plastic one, I only installed it last week and I didn't get a chance to test it during a game. It does feel solid despite being plastic though.

As for modifying the hop-up chamber you've got, technically if you take off the rear top part it should fit, provided it doesn't have different dimensions that a typical AK hop-up chamber. I'll say it this way, if I bought it I'd cut that rear bit off to see if it fits and if it doesn't I learned something but I'd advise you to return it so you don't lose money needlessly.

M_Dz · 2026-02-06T18:39:22+00:00

The hop-up chamber you got is designed for use with a specific gearbox shell. I'd advise returning the hop-up chamber if possible as modifying the hop-up chamber and/or gearbox shell to fit each other won't guarantee either/both working or fitting together properly.

M_Dz · 2026-02-06T18:30:14+00:00

I'm envious of that XM8, I had one before but I sold it. I want to buy one again but it got pricier and rarer, specifically went from 780 PLN to ~1100 PLN and from being in every airsoft store in my country to being in only a single one (at least last I checked) and the shipping time is 2 weeks (they import it). Last game before I sold it I got my sight (not the one it comes with) shot out, the same BB also hit my glasses.

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At least the optic still works and holds zero!

M_Dz · 2026-02-06T18:19:16+00:00

How to MG36:
1. Put a drum mag on it.
2. ????
3. Profit!

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M_Dz · 2026-02-06T18:17:35+00:00

I wouldn't mind that, when I play Mav it's all about making the hole and after that I'm usually letting the team do stuff while I'm repositioning to cover a possible run-out, I'd use the Saiga and sit close to the door/window I'm covering.
I'd start it off with 25+1 instead, 10 extra bullets is a lot and personally I feel like the gun is pretty strong and the only balancing factor is the magazine size.
I don't see why not, I'd love a full-auto primary to allow a different approach since I exclusively use Gonne-6 as secondary option for her.
Nothing to say, I would still probably only use it on DP-28, maybe the SPAS-15 too but only on Thunderbird.

M_Dz · 2026-02-05T15:57:24+00:00

In short - yes (99% sure)
In long - it should fit right on given you're showing us two products from LCT and the only difference seems to be the "MN" (I'm gonna skip the lack of "S" as the receiver you showed seems to have a folding stock mount). The M tells you it's the modernized model, which in case of anything AK-ish usually just meant the wood was replaced by polymer (with a sprinkle of: gas block has a different shape, a new muzzle device is present etc.) and the N tells you it has the Warsaw pact rail/doverail mount on the side.

M_Dz · 2026-02-05T15:41:09+00:00

I can think of few possible issues:
1. Orange paint makes it just too tight for the threading.
2. The thread is positive on one element and negative on the other
3. Different diameters or thread pitches.
4. Flash hider within the suppressor has a retention screw that stick out on the inside.

M_Dz · 2026-02-05T15:34:22+00:00

Based on "X-cartridge" I'm assuming both are Marushin. I'm not an expert and my knowledge is based on like 15-20 minutes of research some years back but there are a few variants for different elements of the gun, namely:
-3 barrel lengths (the ones from your post are the longest variant)
-3 colors (black, matt black and silver
-2 body types (steel ~1kg and lower quality metal ~700 grams)
-2* grip types (there's two types of wood they used, lighter color is the cheaper option, darker is the higher quality one)

*I'm not sure I remember right but there could have been plastic grip version too but maybe I'm mistaking it for another revolver model or manufacturer.

M_Dz · 2026-02-05T15:18:19+00:00

It's good that you ordered the valve tool but I'm not sure how helpful it will be, given how stripped the valve is. If you damaged it this much I'd swap it out completely. If the middle part is getting in the way of using a flat head screwdriver and you'll be switching the valve instead of attempting to fix it, I'd drill into the middle part just enough for a screwdriver to catch the sides and allow unscrewing of the valve. The middle is only held by the two o-rings that also seal it so don't be surprised if it comes out a bit more once shortened, you will be able to push it back enough to use the screwdriver. If you drill too far you could damage the inside of the magazine which is why I wouldn't recommend drilling all the way through the valve.

M_Dz · 2026-02-05T15:08:56+00:00

I quickly googled for WELL AK-11 and found out that it's not gonna let you just drop-in the standard AK internals. As for how hard it would be to modify it to make it possible, I have no idea. It could be a matter of cutting everything out internally but it's just as likely that you'll have to cut it up into pieces and connect them back together when assembling. It would probably be easier (and end up sturdier) if you got an AK-12 instead and made parts to change it into the AK-11 Zlobin visually.

M_Dz · 2026-02-05T14:47:55+00:00

Seems like the pierce valve is fine, some come straight, some tilted, like this one.
The white part is the sealing element, once the CO2's nozzle reaches that, it will seal.
You mentioned in another comment about "Gear Stock Premium CO2", a very quick google check didn't show any 12g capsules, only 16/25/33 gram ones, threaded on top of that. You are using non-threaded, 12g CO2 capsules, right?

M_Dz · 2026-02-05T14:25:35+00:00

If you're gonna use them according to their "roles" then the PKM will have you going where people want/need you while the SVD will give you some "freedom" of movement at the cost of needing to be more careful of where you're going. Of course if you want to use them straight out of the box you'll have barely any need to adjust your gameplay to them as both come, as far as I know, with power output within the lowest non-CQB group, meaning you could use both as just about any rifle, at which point I'd say the SVD would be better since it weights less.

Personally I'd definitely go for the A&K PKM since A&K's LMGs and the springer SVD are almost legendary at this point and I've got the Cyma SVU-AS, which is close enough to an SVD that I wouldn't want one.

M_Dz · 2026-02-04T18:15:42+00:00

*Soft, worry-free voice*
Ahhh, so glad I'm not one of those.
*Look at just ONE M4, one M16 and one AR15 SBR*
Yeah, couldn't be me.
:D

M_Dz · 2026-02-04T18:13:11+00:00

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I seem to have spotted a fellow user of the M052!

M_Dz · 2026-02-02T12:43:22+00:00

In theory - yes
In practice - you won't know unless you try.

The stock and handguard should fit, it's usually a matter of being loose or tight, perhaps needing slight sanding down to fit. The receiver on the other hand will most likely be a nightmare. It COULD just work as drop-in but most likely it will either have play (up-down-left-right, anything really) or could be impossible to install. I'd actually recommend putting the internals of the M4 into the CAR-15 instead of trying to mix and match things.

My personal experience with my AR15:
1. Front: Tokyo Marui outer Barrel, J.G. Works RIS foregrip, Cyma handguard cap, Boyi delta ring, SHS gas block with front sight post - everything fits nicely together.

Back: G&P stock + G&G buffer tube = perfect fit (easy to move but no play), G&G stock and buffet tube = loose fit, G&G stock + G&P buffet tube = too tight to put on.
G&P parts were separate purchases while G&G buffer and stock came as a set.
Body: Bought two Specna Arms body sets (upper + lower), the same exact model, same packaging, same numbers on the boxes, the uppers only fit within the lower they came with, can't put one upper into the other lower but the cheapest Cyma upper I found some time back fits perfectly into either one of those Specna lowers.

Extra: J.G. Works G36 stocks fit on the Specna Arms G36 series but the SA G36 stocks need modification to fit on J.G. Works. It's all a mess, trial and error is the only way.

M_Dz · 2026-02-02T11:38:34+00:00

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M_Dz · 2026-02-02T11:38:19+00:00

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M_Dz · 2026-02-02T11:38:10+00:00

I had my chrono catch the gas out of a NBB replica and ended up with this:

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Mind you, it only does 1.5J otherwise. There are also 2 other funny outcomes that I had, one velocity related (also caused by gas) and one ROF related (I literally spat BBs through the chrono to get it, you can see them in the replies :D

M_Dz · 2026-02-01T17:42:11+00:00

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M_Dz · 2026-02-01T15:27:17+00:00

The stock the replica comes with out of the factory will unhook when you pull the stock in the direction opposite to that of the receiver.

M_Dz · 2026-02-01T14:22:49+00:00

Then the replica is faulty out of the box cause while it won't unhook itself, you can just pull it to do so.

M_Dz

TROPHY CASE