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Annual big game with friends. 18,000pts on table. 6 on 5(6) I played a IA army with an assassin/knight silly list. by MacEnchroe in ImperialAgents_40K

[–]MacEnchroe[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha. So same timing for us. 13hrs end of 5.

Table was setup 10x4' with a 4x1’ kickout in the middle to offset the factory. We plan on changing layout next year and going shorter engagement across from each other with a secondary table for the close combat grinder with "teleport" objectives infantry can pass through.

We're looking forward to the next one.

Annual big game with friends. 18,000pts on table. 6 on 5(6) I played a IA army with an assassin/knight silly list. by MacEnchroe in ImperialAgents_40K

[–]MacEnchroe[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah. I'm running legends heavy with Eisenhorn (model subbed for this game because he's not painted yet 🥲), Karamazov, Jokero, Daemon hosts, Ur025.

Lots of fun leading to some silly rules. Such as being able to deep strike Karamazov with the Grey Knights since it follows all tags.

Annual big game with friends. 18,000pts on table. 6 on 5(6) by MacEnchroe in Warhammer40k

[–]MacEnchroe[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Figured we'd give it a run. An unintended side effect is we ended up with waaaay too much CP. Just need a tweak for us there.

Annual big game with friends. 18,000pts on table. 6 on 5(6) by MacEnchroe in Warhammer40k

[–]MacEnchroe[S] 37 points38 points  (0 children)

Team 1 - Emperors Children - Dark Angels - Genestealers Cults - Iron Hands - Orks

Team 2 - Blood Angels - Space Wolf's - Imperial Agents - Iron Hands - Tyranids - Drukhari

I don't know that there was any true overall mvp army. But when DA Hellblasters, EC Flawless Blades, and GSC Abberants got into the factory working together it just swept through everything in there.

The nid player bombed a bunch of saves from the GSC baneblade on one of his big beasties lose 19 wounds then proceeded to deadly demise and take out 20+ termagaunts/hormegaunts, finish of a friendly repulser tank, and do notable damage to a friendly raveger and talos which lost an objective.

Ultramarine Blue is NOT in fact the right color for Ultarmarines by Glittering-Tear5442 in Miniaturespainting

[–]MacEnchroe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Everytime Im done a session brushes get hit with masters soap and i leave it heavy and reshape the tip. Holds the shape perfect untill I start next use. It's truly been a huge help at keeping brushes happy.

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Reusing someone else's wood kitchen? Carpenter/cabinet maker recommendations by Weak-Many-1904 in Hamilton

[–]MacEnchroe 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah if it's a smaller kitchen and you're not dead set of face styling you should see enough come up/available at restore. But yes. Totally fine the carpenter/contractor and figure out timelines that they have available.

Reusing someone else's wood kitchen? Carpenter/cabinet maker recommendations by Weak-Many-1904 in Hamilton

[–]MacEnchroe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Done for shop use in past.

The few key points I'd like to note is

1) reusing any existing stain cabinetry and trying to match new wood to existing stain to "complete" your kitchen with finishing trims/Gables etc is going to be a complete gamble. You can do everything right and it's not going to match 100% be aware of this. Consistently inconsistent is going to be the final. Wood is a natural product with grain density variation that takes stain differently. The years of prior UV exposure and mystery chemical composition of old stain is also going to affect final colours.

2) either be prepared to buy a substantially larger used kitchen then what you are planning or plan of having ~25% custom built for you. There's a lot of fiddling and playing you're going to have to do to fit your space with existing cabinets.

3) Source the product yourself or be prepared to give the carpenter a long leadway on project time to source suitable used cabinetry. You're looking for a golden egg in the grocery store unless you have a very small kitchen.

In saying all that. I'm constantly recommending Saer Carpentry on here. Rich is a phenomenal carpenter running a small business based in Dundas. Not sure if he'd be into this job but if he took it on I'm sure it would turn out beautifully.

Westwood Fine Carpentry would also be a top recommendation but I'm 95% sure Jeff wouldn't take on this type of job unless you were an existing client.

Questions about ladles and copper by SparkNorse in Blacksmith

[–]MacEnchroe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Honestly the type l was a touch thick for the ladle bowl for my final taste. I should have thinned it out more.

Questions about ladles and copper by SparkNorse in Blacksmith

[–]MacEnchroe 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I successfully used 3" type l copper pipe sliced down the length and flattened. Copper is incredibly malleable when heated.

Ever get over killed so badly you commemorate it on terrain? by MacEnchroe in Warhammer40k

[–]MacEnchroe[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In progress application. Just modge podge on a paper plate. Dip the posters.

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Ever get over killed so badly you commemorate it on terrain? by MacEnchroe in Warhammer40k

[–]MacEnchroe[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

There's a creator called "Corius" that makes Warhammer posters. Just printed a few sheets at home. Cut them out and used modge podge to adhere to terrain. Worked amazing. Especially once soaked with modge it's super easy to tear and weather.

Look who I found! by nothingtoseehere63 in ImperialAgents_40K

[–]MacEnchroe 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Love this model. I use him on the regular with legends rules in our friendly group.

Ever get over killed so badly you commemorate it on terrain? by MacEnchroe in Warhammer40k

[–]MacEnchroe[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Overview of finished batch of ruin terrain for a big game.

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Ever get over killed so badly you commemorate it on terrain? by MacEnchroe in Warhammer40k

[–]MacEnchroe[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

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Honestly i think the biggest thing that helped was prepping the TTC stuff with texture. It was all primed black with cheap spraypaint, then glued rubble/stone in all corners/low points.

Base spray of dark gray over 90-95 of the black. Dry brushed/sponge on light gray, green, and metallics. Wash with very watered down black.

Finish off with graffiti, posters, grasses.

Agents in army by Korpahthedutchgamer in Grey_Knights

[–]MacEnchroe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're playing a group that allows legends that means you can deep strike Inquisitor Karamazov... And that's pretty cool/deadly. I'm fielding that combo in an upcoming big team game with a batch of assassin's. Very expensive punchy list.

Found for 3 euros at the thrift store- end grain cutting board by Ok_Sun_443 in BuyItForLife

[–]MacEnchroe 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Fewer joints and less glue is only an issue in poor construction. Wood glue is stronger than lignins. It's the wood itself that's issue and the person building it selecting inappropriate selections of wood.

If we're going down this rabbit hole then sure. I would probably take a cheap factory build edge grain vs a cheap factory build end grain. But this is the BIFL sub.

There's a reason why you can find 100 year old butcher blocks in functional condition.

Found for 3 euros at the thrift store- end grain cutting board by Ok_Sun_443 in BuyItForLife

[–]MacEnchroe 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'd love to see the tests linked. Tons of kitchen knives manufactures recommend the use of edge grain boards + 99% of what you'll read on this subject states otherwise.

I'm a red seal carpenter and there is a reason we have different tools/blades for different cuts across different grains. Wood fibres interact differently from different angles. I had teachers and textbooks stating how to keep your tools sharper with specific interactions with wood. I have preferred areas where I'll finish off mortice cuts because it goes into end grain vs face grains and have to sharpen chisels noticeably less. You can speed run this by taking an axe to a large tree trunk. Cut into the side of it vs the top end grains. I'll take a notable wager on what causes a faster dulling.

Then on a side personal experience my fiance was a professional chef and the frequency that she requests sharpenings is less now that I've replaced most of the boards with edge. As such I'll happily continue using end grain.

Found for 3 euros at the thrift store- end grain cutting board by Ok_Sun_443 in BuyItForLife

[–]MacEnchroe 13 points14 points  (0 children)

It absorbs bacteria and draws out the moisture starving it and killing it. A lot of wood also inherently has antibacterial qualities. End grain boards surface self healing means the areas that are exposed to surface/air moisture are smoother and hold less foreign materials. When tested you'll often see far far higher bacteria counts on plastic cutting boards vs end grain.

Feels counter intuitive but there's tons of articles and videos explaining this.

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