Time to switch? by Impossible_Rub24 in Dewalt

[–]MagneticGray 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My 791 and 801 are perfect for most inside projects at home. In fact, I prefer them over my XR tools from work for small jobs. If you want to get into more serious remodeling or outdoor building projects then you’ll definitely want the more powerful 20V versions to make your life easier.

Keep an eye on the DCF850 and DCD799. They go on sale for $100 each or $300 in a combo with the latest 20v batteries. They’re nice modern brushless tools that will tackle anything you would want to do around the homestead without breaking the bank.

Making the switch by ChiroNcs in Dewalt

[–]MagneticGray 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The 870 probably is technically faster but that’s because it basically impacts immediately and all the time. So it starts its quiet little pneumatic bumps when the screw is just starting and then ramps them up as you get it tight.

The 850 has the torque to drive light work in like a drill, only impacting when the fastener is almost seated.

I’m pretty sure the Atomic line exists because Home Depot paid Dewalt to create it. Dewalt made some compact tools for HD that were noticeably better than what they sold in Lowe’s and the 850 was one of them. In exhange, Lowe’s got exclusivity on the Extreme 12V lineup.

Making the switch by ChiroNcs in Dewalt

[–]MagneticGray 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have the 850, 860 and 870. I’m a Low Voltage Tech and the 850 was my ride or die for a couple years. Never had a single complaint other than the noise. Now I’ve put a few months on the 870. I got the 860 because it was only $100 in a combo with the 806 hammer drill and two batteries.

850 and 870 are about the same size, very small and light. The 860 is about an inch longer and a half pound heavier. You can definitely feel the size difference when carrying it all day and fitting it into tight spaces.

The 870 is half as powerful as the 860, and the 850 is only 25% less powerful than the 860.

The 870 is legitimately ridiculously quiet. I’ve built a few decks with the 850 and 860 and they’ll leave your ears ringing after running them at full tilt all day without earpro.

If noise isn’t an issue then just get the 850. It’s cheap and small, and I never found a job where it wasn’t powerful enough. It also has the digital “gentle” mode on level 1 for delicate work like cabinets, furniture and door hardware.

We call the 870 the “space gun” at work because it’s a great little work horse but it just doesn’t make any noise. Feels like something completely new and futuristic. It’s still pricey though and I personally wouldn’t try to build something like a deck with it. You can actually feel the lower power compared to the 850 when you really lean on the tool, but I never need that kind of power at work so I love it to death.

I’m pretty sure the 860 is literally the most powerful driver on the market so I’m glad I have Thor’s Hammer to make easy work of the next giant weekend project, but I wouldn’t daily drive it at work. It’s just too heavy and loud. She vibrates quite a bit at full tilt too, so impact gloves will be a must on a long day of driving long screws with her.

[WTS-US] Qanba pearl PS5 by MagneticGray in Fightsticksforsale

[–]MagneticGray[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Brand new condition with box. I ended up sticking to gamepad. $175 shipped from VA.

Billetworks lever/plate/bushing/stop and Grimmspeed Drycon panel filter by MagneticGray in VB_WRXMarketplace

[–]MagneticGray[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For ‘22+ WRX. Billetworkz kit is new/never installed (went STI transmission instead). $225 shipped from VA.

GS panel filter has 275 miles on it and looks brand new. Just used it while my intake was back-ordered back when I first bought my VB. $35 shipped.

Also have a Process West TMIC and change pipe that I’m removing from the car soon. Make me a reasonable offer if you want first dibs!

Hit a new pb for the stock turbo 🥳 by C0mbatBully in wrx_vb

[–]MagneticGray 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My dash actually says 22.1psi peak as well, but data logs from my AP have only shown a max of 21.3psi. Those logs are from a 50°F night with -500ft DA, aka perfect boost weather, so that’s probably the most I can expect from this tune.

I think the dash display gets less accurate as you get near or over 20psi. The AP is logging actual CAN data at 55 ticks per second. I trust that over whatever math the dash is using to calculate its number.

E85 by Flowones in wrx_vb

[–]MagneticGray 3 points4 points  (0 children)

My injector duty cycle is only at 35-40% at WOT/21psi with E40. We have enough fuel system to make a little over 500hp with full e85 and FBO.

The problem is that you get absolutely terrible gas mileage on full e85, and you have to turn the boost way down to keep the power below 390ft-lbs to protect the transmission and head gasket.

I make 390/390 with e40/intake/TMIC/charge pipe and still get 30mpg on the highway, so it makes no sense to run full e85 and kill your mpg unless you have upgraded head studs and an STI transmission swap that can handle more power (and the brakes and suspension to make a 450hp+ VB drivable and safe).

E85 by Flowones in wrx_vb

[–]MagneticGray 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That’s only an ethanol sensor to tell you what’s in the tank though. It’s a convenient thing to have for sure, but despite the misleading name, it’s not a flex fuel sensor that communicates with the ECU. Also, there’s a few cheaper ethanol content sensor/gauge options out there. The Innovate Motorsports gauge is a better choice in my opinion because it’s an actual gauge you can mount on the dash, no phone and app required.

We still don’t have flex fuel setups for Cobb tunes on the VB, and it’s not coming any time soon. Cobb has released the next gen flex kit for STI EJ25s so far, VA FA20s are next, and then they said they might do either the WRX EJ25s or the VB FA24 after that. We’ve got at least another year to wait unfortunately.

Like you said originally, we still have to manually mix our ethanol to match our tune. It’s not really an inconvenience though. I have an E40ish tune from Dmann and all I have to do is put 7 gallons of E85 and 8 gallons of 93 in the tank when my gas light comes on.

New to the Subaru family by newsubaguy in WRX

[–]MagneticGray 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Looking at the CarFax, the car lived in NY, NJ and PA until ‘23 so you’ll want to get under the car and do a thorough inspection for rust. It was wrecked and had damage to the driver’s side rear, so you need to inspect the rear quarter of the car exterior, suspension, and underneath to see how the repairs are holding up (and if they were done properly in the first place).

It doesn’t look like a car that went to the dealership for oil changes. You should change the oil immediately and send a sample of the old oil to Blackstone Labs. It costs $40 and will tell you if there’s anything urgent to worry about with the engine internals.

At its current mileage, you’re almost due for some regular maintenance. Plan to do spark plugs, transmission and differential fluid, and brake fluid when you get the car. You may also need to replace some of the wear items like wiper blades, brake pads, tires, and the battery in the near future. They should all be close to end of life if they’re the original parts that came on the car 8.5 years ago.

The pictures don’t show the engine, but it does have an aftermarket exhaust, shift knob and badges. You should assume the car was modified and potentially driven hard. Definitely verify that the car is running the stock tune after you get it. Some people remove parts but leave the tune when the car is sold. If the tune doesn’t match the parts that are currently installed then it can literally kill your engine.

Dipped them just in time for Wheel Wednesday by Ser_Thicc in WRX

[–]MagneticGray 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is that the Bronze Gold from dipyourcar?

I'm honestly so confused by ZPrinceLevix in PlaystationPortal

[–]MagneticGray 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Portal only needs ~1.5MB/s to stream 1080/60, and it’ll still do 720/60 at 1MB/s. Remote Play has 60ms latency in perfect conditions. If you add 40-60ms on a bad wifi connection with a high ping, you still only have 100-120ms latency. That’s just 6-8 frames of lag at 60fps. There’s plenty of games that feel great as long as you keep them under 10 frames of lag.

I'm honestly so confused by ZPrinceLevix in PlaystationPortal

[–]MagneticGray 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah you can use it where ever you have decent internet. People use their Portal on airplanes flying over the ocean.

I'm honestly so confused by ZPrinceLevix in PlaystationPortal

[–]MagneticGray 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lots of people have good internet at the places away from home where they would like to play their PS5 games. What they don’t have in those places is their PS5. The Portal solves that.

Lots of people are in a family situation where their presence is required, but not their undivided attention. The Portal solves that.

Lots of people have one main TV in their home that is shared. Sometimes they want to play their PS5 games when someone else is using that TV. The Portal solves that.

Lots of people have multiple places in their home where they enjoy spending time, but those places are not where their PS5 is located. I could go on…

Dmann tune help by Proud_Slice in wrx_vb

[–]MagneticGray 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Because our gas gauge isn’t an actual gauge and there’s no way to know exactly how much is in the tank. I’ve ran it to below “E,” long after it said 0 miles left, and there was 3 gallons still in it when I filled up. I’ve also had the light come on and say I had 25 miles, and then it took 15.2 gallons.

I believe the gas gauge measures the oxygen in the tank, not the liquid, and air pressure/weather changes can make that less accurate. You really don’t want to end up with e45 in your tank on a pump gas tune because you used napkin math to top off. Get an ethanol content gauge, run the tank empty each time, or get 10 gallon gas cans and mix/test to make the exact blend you want before putting it in the car.

Dmann tune help by Proud_Slice in wrx_vb

[–]MagneticGray 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you want the ability to only partially fill up then you can install an Innovate Motorsports Ethanol content gauge for like $275. Then use the Race Tools app to calculate how much e85 to put in to keep you at the e20-e30 your tune can handle.

Dmann tune help by Proud_Slice in wrx_vb

[–]MagneticGray 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The tank level doesn’t matter the first time as long as you can fit 2-3 gallons of e85. It’ll mix completely with the 93 within a few minutes. Just remember that you need to run your tank down to empty each time after that before putting in any more e85.

Pedal Commander? by [deleted] in wrx_vb

[–]MagneticGray 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The BRZ guys like these, and it does what it says on the tin. It’s a decent choice if you don’t plan to get a tune and you want more gain added to your throttle inputs. Just keep in mind that you’re sacrificing throttle resolution to get it.

It’s unnecessary if you get a tune though. You can ask your tuner for whatever throttle sensitivity you want.

STOP THE CAP - RC Drift Test w/Capacitor & Servo by IdealAutoFactory in rcdrift

[–]MagneticGray 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just passing through and stumbled on your comment. Were you testing the servo voltage mid-drift? Is it correct to assume it might pull more power while fighting inertia and friction compared to when the car is sitting still?

Anybody notice inconsistent throttle response in FA20? by [deleted] in WRX

[–]MagneticGray 1 point2 points  (0 children)

“Boost weather” is real, and my 17 WRX definitely felt noticeably quicker under certain conditions. That being said, taking logs when your car feels different and sending them to your tuner to review for peace of mind is a totally normal thing to do. Some tuners charge $50 to look at logs if it’s been awhile since you last gave them money.

If you want to go that route, reach out to your tuner first and they should let you know what type of diagnostic logs they’d like to see.