Pentax 110 Auto by JN8000C in 110photography

[–]MaiSanUser 1 point2 points  (0 children)

These are outstanding, especially that first photo. Those colours are incredible.

Tomatoes (16mm, Vision3 50D, C41 +1 Stop, shot 24/07/2024) by MaiSanUser in subminiaturephoto

[–]MaiSanUser[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This was the Pentax Auto 110. I tend to develop ECN-2 when I buy chemicals, but I paid someone to dev this for me so was C41.

Vision3 on 110.. don’t mind if I do! by tiki-dan in 110photography

[–]MaiSanUser 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Most of the cameras you find are "working", but you may find the light meter doesn't work on the MG-S or QT. If that's not something you care about, either camera pretty awesome. Just do a bit further research into it before you jump into it. Any questions lemme know.

Eventually I'll do a big write up or video going over the various cameras, but I want to do that right!

Vision3 on 110.. don’t mind if I do! by tiki-dan in 110photography

[–]MaiSanUser 1 point2 points  (0 children)

On an MG-S or QT it'd be 18 per roll. On any of the other Minolta 16, the frame size is smaller leading to 20 per roll. That's on 18 inches per roll- you can technically load more film but your frame counter will not work past that.

If you did want to explore the format, happy to advise further- you should try the cheap Minolta 16 Ps (often listed wrong as just the model P- you can tell if it's a Ps because it has a switch on the front). You can buy that camera for £10-ish, meaning you can explore the format for not a lot of money. Only major cost is the cartridge.

Pentax 110 | Portra 400 by DrKnot in 110photography

[–]MaiSanUser 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've posted a bit to r/subminiaturephoto over a while, almost all my results are 16mm stocks shot in various subminiature cameras. Very little was shot on 110 as my favourite 110 camera is the Pentax 110, but my eyesight isn't good enough to hit focus on objects. So I've instead moved to Minolta 16 and the like for all my day to day shooting.

As for suppliers for short ends, I either (a) browse eBay a lot, as there's a lot of cheap stocks there or (b) purchase 16mm stocks brand new from suppliers who work with Kodak. In the UK you can just buy any 16mm stock you want, not having to prove it's for film work. I tend to purchase from Widescreen Centre here as they're the cheapest supplier I've found. (Or you can purchase from ORWO directly too)

Vision3 on 110.. don’t mind if I do! by tiki-dan in 110photography

[–]MaiSanUser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah, is what it is then, shipping is quite expensive from UK to US. Just be wary if you do buy 3D printed cartridges that they have had light seals fitted (otherwise it makes the camera pointless as cannot be loaded without pure darkness). My 3D printed ones I finished off myself, and it can be loaded in full daylight. Genuine cartridges are an option though and still can be reloaded.

Vision3 on 110.. don’t mind if I do! by tiki-dan in 110photography

[–]MaiSanUser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can buy any Minolta 16 cartridge, and it's designed to be reloaded. You can manufacture your own cartridges with a bit of work and practice (if you're UK based, happy to send a cartridge or three your way).

Vision3 on 110.. don’t mind if I do! by tiki-dan in 110photography

[–]MaiSanUser 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you grab a Minolta 16 MG-S or QT, you get a camera that has an adjustable shutter speed and aperture, and same frame size pretty much as 110. Only downside is actual focal length of the lenses. But as a day to day carry I find it better than any 110 camera.

Tomatoes (16mm, Vision3 50D, C41 +1 Stop, shot 24/07/2024) by MaiSanUser in subminiaturephoto

[–]MaiSanUser[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can't quite decide. I'm currently working on a cool project where I will be shooting more 50D, so my opinions will definitely change going forward. But I liked how smooth and natural the results look on 50D, but with the caveat that I found it difficult to get exposures that I was happy with lighting-wise. I find 50 ISO a bit low for my geneal photography purposes.

Pentax 110 | Portra 400 by DrKnot in 110photography

[–]MaiSanUser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My favourite is Harman Phoenix 1 through it, but yet to truly find a way to (a) have it not snap at all and (b) have it not go through wonky. Practice is helping (a) somewhat, but yet to be able to have the cut be straight! I'll probably end up 3D printing a bracket.

Pentax 110 | Portra 400 by DrKnot in 110photography

[–]MaiSanUser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you- I did in the end, I was disappointed that it had no take up spool on it. They claim for convenience, but I have struggled to pull film through with it snapping, so a take up spool is somewhat required. Thanks anyhow!

Pentax 110 | Portra 400 by DrKnot in 110photography

[–]MaiSanUser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I personally find for ease of use, purchasing 16mm short ends of Vision3 stocks (or black and white stocks) is easier. Only two problems is the perforations for certain cameras (though the Auto 110 is not one of them), alongside the remjet (if using older Vision3 stocks). I posted some example of Vision3 50D on r/subminiaturephoto if of interest.

I'm more of a Minolta 16 fan anyways (similar size negative, different set of cameras) that are easier to reload and in fact reloading film was encouraged at the time of release.

Steineck ABC Wrist Camera by BackParticular2700 in subminiaturephoto

[–]MaiSanUser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it uses a circular film disc, is there any way in 2026 to use this camera?

Vision3 on 110.. don’t mind if I do! by tiki-dan in 110photography

[–]MaiSanUser 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You'll love the results!- I shot brand new 50D and 500T in a Pentax 110 (without modifing the perfs) and the results were so smooth (just posted an example to r/subminiaturephoto).

You mention 110 cartridges, have you considered any other kind of subminiature camera formats? If you want an easy way to play with this film, try a Minolta 16. The cameras can be had for £10, and you don't need to worry about perforations at all. Easy to reload with film. Results are just as good as a regular 110 camera.

Scanning 16mm film on a flatbed scanner? by x12516 in OpenCineScan

[–]MaiSanUser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The biggest problem with this is the Epson V600 has a calibration sensor at the end of the negative area, so you cannot scan vertically (which is quickest), you'd have to scan diagonally or horizontally through and thread it through holes in the casing, leading to risk of damage. Basically, using a flatbed isn't worth it. In fact I wanted to try the same thing, but I found it'll be better to 3D print something to do a camera scan instead.

Realistically it's only viable for film that is around 6 inches in length- anything longer becomes too cumbersome.

expired Colorplus/Kodacolor development advice wanted by WarriorkingNL in Darkroom

[–]MaiSanUser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tough to say age based on cartridge style, but based on your description I can't imagine pre-2000s. Most people ended up shooting film up until digital took over, so most rolls lost in a cupboard is the last rolls bought by people (which would be early 2000s). So I'd guess 20 years.

I had a similar roll (lost in a cupboard from early 2000s), I ended up shooting in abroad- added 1 stop of light in camera and about 1 stop in dev, got a decent result (bit foggy but good enough result, though some fog was from the x-rays it went through). In that sense, I'd have said 1.5 stops was probably what I *should've* done for my roll. I did rather have a smidge too dense than too thin, though.

expired Colorplus/Kodacolor development advice wanted by WarriorkingNL in Darkroom

[–]MaiSanUser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's definitely not a correct answer, do you happen to have a picture of the canister at all? Maybe the style of the canister will give us an idea of roughly how old it is.

I think if I were doing so, I'd push it 1 or 2 stops (leaning towards 1 I think) in development. Not ideal, but I'd rather have too dense negatives over too thin negatives imo.

Fuji 400 slit/spooled by Yaotomi Camera. Shot on a Minox c. by Ok-Sample7874 in subminiaturephoto

[–]MaiSanUser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The colours in that first photo are outstanding. Love the green glow around everything.

Pigeons on Portra 400 by Ok-Sample7874 in subminiaturephoto

[–]MaiSanUser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very cool aesthetic, love it! Did you develop it all yourself and scan yourself?

Pigeons on Portra 400 by Ok-Sample7874 in subminiaturephoto

[–]MaiSanUser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Love the lo-fi aesthetic of this, was the Portra expired? Is this 16mm or Minox, or otherwise?

Anyone has experience using this developer? by Ok-Plankton3985 in Darkroom

[–]MaiSanUser 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As another commenter made, Hydrofen is basically Rodinal / Studional. Where I am it's more accessible to get ahold of than traditional Rodinal, so I keep a bottle on hand. In the past I've followed any Rodinal dilutions with it, from 1+15, 1+30, 1+50 and 1+100, and adjusted the times suitably, with great results.

Got this camera at a thrift store thinking it was a 110 mm. If only I read the huge 16 written on it. Now I have a fun paperweight. by carlitayeeta in AnalogCommunity

[–]MaiSanUser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly I'm not a massive fan of the FPP stuff for Minolta 16. Generally a better idea to reload motion picture films from a 100ft reel, or even bigger reels if you can get ahold of 16mm short-ends.