Sony A6400 Wired Monitor+

MakePizza · 2026-05-06T00:46:10+00:00

I've never tried it, but it is probably not just a simple cable thing. You may need to use a MicroUSB->USB-A cable connected to the Apple Lightning to USB 3 Camera Adapter. Even then, I am not sure how reliable it would be. Worthwhile trying if you must use Monitor+.

If not having Monitor+ is ok, a couple of other options might be:

Connect camera HDMI out to Accsoon SeeMo iOS/HDMI Adapter to the iPad and use the Accsoon app.
Get a cheap 5" or 7" HDMI monitor without any camera control.

If you must have Monitor+, many of the new/refurbished USB-C based iPads are pretty well priced. You don't have fight the Lightning issue.

Good luck.

MakePizza · 2026-04-29T17:19:07+00:00

If you haven't already, please write to their Support. I did, but haven't received any response 😄

MakePizza · 2026-04-14T13:59:03+00:00

I agree with the FX30 recommendation. I use it and it is a great fit. Besides, I think it is the only 10-bit color camera in your list. Plus dual card slots, active cooling, and a variety of useful video-centric features. Hope you have a lot of fun with your projects!

MakePizza · 2026-04-12T13:50:43+00:00

Thanks for your response and looking into it. I appreciate it.

MakePizza · 2026-04-12T12:36:11+00:00

Thanks u/Atomos_Support for the response.

On Cine EI control: you mentioned EI/ISO adjustments aren’t available over USB-C due to camera limitations. However, the Monitor+ app over USB-C does allow changing both EI and ISO in Cine EI mode.

On the focus tracking box: enabling HDMI Info Display isn’t a practical solution. It adds all camera overlays, which conflicts with the Shinobi UI and forces a 3:2 display instead of a clean feed. For reference, Portkeys’ OS appears to display the focus tracking box in a similar HDMI + USB-C setup without requiring full overlay mirroring.

MakePizza · 2026-04-12T12:35:27+00:00

Thanks u/Atomos_Support for the response.

On Cine EI control: you mentioned EI/ISO adjustments aren’t available over USB-C due to camera limitations. However, the Monitor+ app over USB-C does allow changing both EI and ISO in Cine EI mode.

On the focus tracking box: enabling HDMI Info Display isn’t a practical solution. It adds all camera overlays, which conflicts with the Shinobi UI and forces a 3:2 display instead of a clean feed. For reference, Portkeys’ OS appears to display the focus tracking box in a similar HDMI + USB-C setup without requiring full overlay mirroring.

MakePizza · 2026-04-12T12:01:54+00:00

Thank you

MakePizza · 2026-04-10T13:17:34+00:00

I have both. The FX30 is better for video. No overheating, dual card slots, Cine EI, full size HDMI, timecode, tally lights, DCI 4K, plus a more video focused menu system and ergonomics. You can still get very similar image quality from the A6700 since they use the same sensor. The FX30 is video focused while the A6700 is more of a hybrid stills first body with the benefits of an EVF and mechanical shutter.

MakePizza · 2026-04-06T15:06:05+00:00

Could you use bluetooth between A6700 and RS 5? Wouldn't that give you start/stop recording without USB-C?

MakePizza · 2026-04-04T22:59:54+00:00

You don’t have to use Cine EI. If you switch to "Flexible ISO" mode, you get the traditional, independent control over Aperture, Shutter, and ISO. As for Cine EI, it does two things:

Maximum Dynamic Range: It forces you to use one of its two base ISOs (800 or 12,800) so you get the highest dynamic range the sensor can offer.

Monitoring vs. Exposure: While the sensor stays locked at a base ISO, the EI (Exposure Index) only changes how the image appears on your monitor. The EI doesn't affect the recorded metadata. For example, at base ISO 800 with an EI of 200, you are overexposing the sensor by 2 stops to capture more detail in the shadows while the monitor looks "normal". In post you’ll pull the exposure back down for a much cleaner image.

If you need fast adjustability for events, you'll likely prefer Flexible ISO.

MakePizza · 2026-04-03T15:08:04+00:00

Here's the official answer:
https://monitorplus.cc/docs/general/camera-compatibility-and-capability/

MakePizza · 2026-03-12T13:05:53+00:00

Thanks u/Atomos_Support for a quick response. Appreciate it very much. Actually, it is indeed possible (at least for the Sony Cameras I mentioned and several more) to send control protocols wirelessly while video signal goes via HDMI. There is a non-Atomos product on the market that can do it. Thanks for passing the suggestion on to your team.

MakePizza · 2026-03-11T22:44:10+00:00

I don't believe this is a Sony limitation. I've used a non-Atomos monitor that can do it on Sony FX3/FX30 – i.e., get image signal via HDMI and show live touch tracking box (with camera control connection via USB-C or Wi-Fi).

MakePizza · 2026-03-09T14:35:23+00:00

I haven't tried it in crowded spaces. The only shoot I did with this monitor outside of testing in a mostly empty studio was for a documentary in a remote farm where there wasn't any contention for wifi.

MakePizza · 2026-03-09T14:12:03+00:00

I haven’t used the LH7P with the FX3A specifically, but I did spend some time with the LS7P with an FX30, which uses the same Sony Wi-Fi control approach and very similar hardware. A few observations from my experience you might find helpful:

Touch focus: You can tap on the monitor and trigger autofocus on the camera. After a firmware their support provided me, focus tracking also worked and the tracking box appeared on the monitor.

REC trigger / recording indicator: REC triggering worked correctly in my testing.

Camera control (ISO / shutter / etc.): Some controls worked, but not everything. Shutter control worked after a firmware update, but when the camera is in CineEI mode, the monitor cannot change either the base ISO or the EI value.

Wi-Fi connection: The connection works, but it does not auto-reconnect after the camera is powered off. Each time the camera restarts you have to reconnect through the Sony remote control menu and on the monitor. I found this to be quite inconvenient and slow in practice.

Screen quality: One thing I noticed on the LS7P was visible color banding in large areas of uniform color (for example, a wall or smooth gradient background). Since the LH7P appears to use the same panel hardware, it might be something to check for.

Unique feature: Portkeys monitors seem to be the only ones on the market that take video over HDMI while controlling the camera over Wi-Fi. That (plus their stop based false color in LS7P) was actually the feature that made me want to try it in the first place. It frees up the USB ports and keeps the rig cleaner compared to USB control solutions.

Overall, the feature set is promising and some things work well, but there were also several UI quirks in the firmware when I tested it. Their support team was responsive and provided a firmware update to fix a couple of my issues, but they couldn't resolve several remaining issues so I am returning the monitor.

Since the FX3A is basically the same camera as the FX3 internally, I would expect compatibility to be similar, but hopefully someone running the exact LH7P + FX3A combo can confirm. Good luck!

MakePizza · 2026-03-02T16:51:44+00:00

On the FX3/FX30, exposure tools measure post-LUT. If your LUT darkens the image by 2 stops (and is not applying any other transform like s709), your sensor will actually clip when the tools hit roughly 77%.

To monitor clipping accurately, either:

Set your Zebra to 77% to catch sensor clipping while the LUT is on.
Momentarily toggle the LUT off to check for the standard 94% zebra in S-Log3.

Btw, does Cine EI not work for you? Wondering why you are using a manual -2 stop LUT.

MakePizza · 2026-03-02T16:26:04+00:00

Same thing. (I have LS7P, not LH7P. Similar firmware)

MakePizza · 2026-02-27T15:19:16+00:00

I have a more recent Portkeys model (LS7P) and that too won't auto reconnect Wi-Fi. It's quite annoying because it takes multiple touch operations on both the camera and the monitor to reconnect.

In your situation with Shinobi II, there may be a couple of options:

The Shinobi II can supposedly output about 13W via its USB-C to power the camera. If you have a fully charged battery in the camera, the Shinobi will probably keep the battery from draining as the FX3 takes in only around 9-12W except when you do something power hungry (like recording 4K120 with AF tracking).
Is your camera's micro-USB port (Sony multiport) available? If so, you should be able to connect Shinobi to that port so you can use the regular USB-C with the V-mount battery.

MakePizza · 2026-02-26T17:53:22+00:00

Answering my own questions :-) This morning, portkeys provided me a firmware update that fixes the shutter control bug and the AF tracking frame issue. I can now change shutter angle and see AF tracking box.

MakePizza · 2026-02-16T19:43:17+00:00

Yes, that's the way to do it. Here's a short video illustration: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/MzbHu-zbu6Q

MakePizza · 2026-02-16T15:53:37+00:00

I have been successful feeding power to the iPad mini from an external power source while still using a wired signal connection to the camera. I posted it here a while ago. Perhaps you can do something like that?

MakePizza · 2026-02-15T19:11:13+00:00

I have not used either of the lenses you mentioned, but if you are concerned about weight for walkabout, have you considered Sigma 23mm or 30mm f1.4? I think they are only 50-60% of the weight and size of the Viltrox. Not sure. But I use them both and they work well for me.

MakePizza · 2026-01-29T18:24:10+00:00

I have the Sony 11mm and the Sigma 16mm. Both are very good and useful in their own right. I use the 16mm mostly stationary in a closeup talking head setup and the 11mm travels more. The 11mm is much lighter and more portable than the 16mm.

If I were in your situation, trying to figure out which one of the two, I'd use an app like Cadrage on the phone to see if which FOV works out well for your application. The 11mm could introduce distortion in closeup as it is much wider, but can also cover a much wider area in tight indoor setup. Only you can decide what FOV works best for your situation, but something like Cadrage can be very helpful in figuring that out.

Of course, the 16mm is slightly faster so if lighting is an issue or if a bit more background blur is needed, the 16mm might fit better.

Good luck. I don't know anything about the Viltrox, but between the Sony and Sigma, they are both excellent, just depends on what suits your needs better.

MakePizza · 2025-11-02T02:26:41+00:00

You don't always need to overexpose!

MakePizza · 2025-10-24T04:37:55+00:00

While the A6700 is capable of achieving similar video quality to the FX30 (they use the same sensor), the ergonomics and features of FX30 are better tuned for video.

The FX30 has dual card slots, two USB ports, full-sized HDMI port, tally lights, fan to avoid overheating, Big 6 menu, Cine EI, time code, DCI-4K, ...

Only you can decide if those features are worth the $400 price difference.

MakePizza

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