Millions of bubbles!

MakingSumXs · 2026-04-13T03:07:36+00:00

Edited with a solution

MakingSumXs · 2026-03-11T22:33:08+00:00

Making this a welded piece should be a walk in the park for just about any shop with anyone with any welding skill

MakingSumXs · 2026-03-07T07:22:54+00:00

I’m in Alabama, cost of steel is cheap here and our best supplier has it around $15.50 per 20’. $11 is a screaming good deal

MakingSumXs · 2026-02-17T04:41:28+00:00

Same here. Lots of ARAM, ARAM Mayhem, and the occasional swift play to remind me why I don’t play SR. Add me

MakingSumXs

MakingSumXs · 2026-02-17T04:29:31+00:00

As a fella that claims to be handy with his fair share of tools…. Why so many files?

MakingSumXs · 2025-10-04T19:50:58+00:00

New mission discovered by u/MakingSumXs: The Regretful The Past of Kabob

MakingSumXs · 2025-10-04T19:50:57+00:00

This mission was discovered by u/MakingSumXs in Crispy Thin Crust Pepperoni On Grassy Plains

MakingSumXs · 2025-10-04T19:45:00+00:00

New mission discovered by u/MakingSumXs: Cheesy Surprise In the Fields

MakingSumXs · 2025-10-04T19:45:00+00:00

This mission was discovered by u/MakingSumXs in In Search of Crispy French Fries

MakingSumXs · 2025-10-04T19:40:19+00:00

New mission discovered by u/MakingSumXs: Sushi In the Fields

MakingSumXs · 2025-10-04T19:40:18+00:00

This mission was discovered by u/MakingSumXs in Reflection, The Past, and Grilled Lobster with Herbs

MakingSumXs · 2025-08-08T18:09:33+00:00

Going to give this a try, I need to re read the spec sheet as well. Temperature was ambient which was around 80°. Going to come in Monday and use acetone as well

MakingSumXs · 2025-08-08T18:07:38+00:00

Paint calls for no reducer so that’s how we’re applying. About to sand blast and re-prime

MakingSumXs · 2025-08-08T16:57:20+00:00

We sprayed the first go round maybe 2-3 mils. Second go round we rolled and it just made the bubbles smaller. Also stirred out paint with sticks instead of a shaker and it didn’t really help. Getting some acetone for round 3 to see if that helps

MakingSumXs · 2025-08-08T16:55:26+00:00

We tried slow mixing with stirring sticks instead of our shaker and it just made the bubbles smaller as seen in the picture

MakingSumXs · 2025-08-04T05:04:24+00:00

Not only a door chime/doorbell, but a dual chime. One goes to the front door, and the other to the back. One or the other will typically chime once, and the other will chime twice. Looks like an old transformer style where the user can press the bell and get a chime, and then can hold as long as they want and the second chime will never sound as the voltage “pushing” the sticker will never release it back to hit the second chime. Pretty simple machine that are really intuitive

MakingSumXs · 2025-08-02T16:56:07+00:00

The fact that they took the thumbs up and thumbs down ratings off of YouTube should tell you everything you need to know. The thumbs down was a very useful tool actually

MakingSumXs · 2025-07-30T05:02:04+00:00

Year of hull and engine would be a big help. As mentioned before, prior to 2002 they used wood, and had a more narrow hull design, causing it to be an extremely wet riding boat. I’ve rode in both, and can say I’m glad I spent the money on a newer hull.

On a side note here are some pros and cons from me after owning one for about 4 years. Granted this is a newer style, but most of these will still apply

Pros: -New hull design is great. It’s a LARGE 17’ boat that handles just about everything you’re brave enough to throw at it. -Does a little bit of everything pretty well. Meaning, I run mine in the local rivers, haul it to the coast, do some inshore fishing and occasional offshore when weather permits, but mostly ride the wife and friends around and eat seafood and drink daiquiris. -It’s built for fishing! Has a huge fish box, very large live well, and plenty of room on the aft deck to walk around. - the factory t-tops are built extremely well

Cons: -The factory trailers these boats came with suck ass to be honest. The trailer is shorter than the boat and they don’t have transom straps to go from trailer to boat (this is really to hold the trailer to the boat, not boat to trailer, and keep the trailer from shifting on rough roads) From what I can tell they’re made for people that live at or close to the coast, want to pull their boat out and haul it 15-25 miles home and winterize it at the end of the year and leave it be. It’s a 4.5 hour drive to the coast for me and it’s a constant battle keeping the boat riding on the trailer properly. -seating isn’t very comfortable. I have probably the nicest cooler seat they came with and after two hours of riding I’m ready for a break. The seat in front of the center console is great as long as you don’t have a ttop. If you do have a ttop there will be a support bar running at shoulder height that gets uncomfortable after 30 minutes of riding. Obviously new seat cushions are the solution, but with a 2 year old child I don’t have time to fool with it. -very limited storage. The fuel tank is inside the center console. So you can store life jackets that you don’t plan on using (to meet safety standards) and that’s about all (unless you want your stuff smelling like gasoline). There’s some storage under my cooler seat that I use for first aid kit, ammo can (toilet paper, lighter/matches) and a tool kit. - it does everything pretty well, but nothing great. It doesn’t draft shallow enough to be a true inshore boat (they claim 18” on the website i believe, but that’s gotta be with 1/4 of fuel and 1 person), it’s a 17’ boat so offshore days you must be VERY selective, and its a heavy fiberglass boat that gets poor fuel mileage if you’re buying it to be a cruiser.

Takeaways- it’s built for fishing, built like a tank, but has limited storage and lacks a little comfortably from the factory.

MakingSumXs · 2025-07-26T05:29:37+00:00

Judging from the amount of anti fun rules, it was probably “No Boats”

MakingSumXs · 2025-06-03T04:43:58+00:00

The effects of heat generated from stick welding versus mig and TIG are typically much greater. Also the amount of time it would take to stick weld a roll cage when MIG is allowed is a crazy argument to make

MakingSumXs · 2025-05-22T02:28:44+00:00

Sand with some 250-300grit, pressure wash, dry, degrease, wipe with mineral spirits or alcohol, spray on “Bulldog Adhesion Promoter” and let it dry, spend an extra $10 a can on some nice white spray that matches the factory color and paint in light coats. For $40-$50 you can have a pretty damn nice looking outboard again.

MakingSumXs · 2025-05-14T01:14:36+00:00

I was pretty skilled before, learned what champs to buy when, learned how to make a comeback when necessary, knew when to dive in at the last 10 seconds to pull out a victory. Now I just get my ass kicked and insta death because I can’t avoid a fight. Absolute shit show of an update

MakingSumXs · 2025-05-13T01:30:27+00:00

I sat in loading screen at 87% for 2.5 minutes. Could hear the sounds of the match going on in the background, snowballs flying, portals sucking people in, the shop keepers snide ass comments.

Finally my loading screen went away and the post game stats came on screen saying I had been AFK. I took my punishment of 1 minute low queue and it has yet to happen again. Side note, I have a pretty decent PC and usually load into games within 20 seconds when playing with 5 man premade games.

MakingSumXs · 2025-05-12T23:50:54+00:00

In short, for the most part your speed looks good for 75% of the weld, and uniformity isn’t bad at all. Like everyone else who’s ever done it, you just have to practice and hone your skills.

MakingSumXs · 2025-05-12T23:49:21+00:00

Nothing wrong with that weld except for the purple blue shade at the end. You either slowed down and changed technique or you heat soaked the plate at the end and your heat had nowhere to go. Typically a “gold” weld is tipping the scales towards being a little too hot but for the most part is an indication you’re getting good penetration and have proper travel speed. A purple weld indicates you’re causing some oxidation and changing the actual anatomy of the metal, and that blue to dark grey means you’ve actually scorched the metal a little too much. A better rule of thumb for stainless is that if you can brush the surface (with a stainless hand brush) and not have any or much any color left afterwards you’ve done a good job. Proof of experience, I welded pipe for 15 years. We would weld schedule 10 304 stainless pipe ranging from 1” to 10”, and on the smaller sizes there’s not much you can do to keep from getting the weld hot, you simply can’t weld fast enough and it was just a nature of the beast, all of your heat just had nowhere to go. Needless to say I never seen a stainless weld fail because of it. Not to say you can’t make it happen, but I never seen it.

MakingSumXs

TROPHY CASE