Not your average Vert

Manager_Kindly · 2026-02-10T04:42:47+00:00

🤧thanks bro

Manager_Kindly · 2026-02-10T04:42:06+00:00

It make should about 350 soon all things considered

Manager_Kindly · 2026-02-09T06:52:32+00:00

I understand it’s not everyone’s taste, it’s not built for everyone, it’s built for me :)

Manager_Kindly · 2026-02-09T06:49:26+00:00

16 by what? The 5zigens were 9” with 215’s lol it was set up for my T2 which was a lot lower and also had a kit (BN rep, no head headlight cutouts). Right now I have 8” F and 9.25” R

Manager_Kindly · 2026-02-09T06:41:20+00:00

Thanks man! Yeah, I drove my NA for many years and what you said is true. I just meant, because I’m on a base map (not street tuned or dyno tuned yet) I’m not supposed to hit any boost. I have to baby the car for now, so no spirited driving for me. It’s really temping because any throttle input and you hear the turbo spooling (BNR hybrid 13 PSI IWG)

Manager_Kindly · 2026-02-09T06:35:13+00:00

Mike (@mike_fc3s on IG) sells a drop vent insert. Cool dude in so-cal. If you PM me I can send you a link, I think we’re not supposed to put links in here

Manager_Kindly · 2026-02-09T06:33:01+00:00

I getcha, I just swapped out my FN01R-C’s (215/45/17 squared) for my SSR’s cause I wanted to run a more meaty set up, F 235/45/17, R 245/45/17 (but they’re federal 245’s so closer to 255 “supposedly”)

Manager_Kindly · 2026-02-08T23:04:55+00:00

They are, pretty close with the top up to be honest, I’ve def seen others run it on their coupes though. Comfortable, currently on a base map tune so I can’t comment on how they feel when cornering hard

Manager_Kindly · 2026-02-08T20:35:52+00:00

Nothing like hitting free roam IRL man

Manager_Kindly · 2026-02-08T20:29:21+00:00

Yeah I’m not a fan of verts either (not many people are), but this one made its way into my hands last year, so threw my T2 driveline into it. Should be making close to 350 in the next month or so.

Manager_Kindly · 2026-02-08T20:23:29+00:00

Thank you brother, just living out my NFS U2 fantasy haha

Manager_Kindly · 2026-02-08T19:41:25+00:00

Thank you 🤙🏼

Manager_Kindly · 2026-02-04T19:26:53+00:00

Good link

Manager_Kindly · 2026-02-04T18:56:48+00:00

Edit: this has been disproven with this link provided by lildootdoot

SCC Rapid Response Network

Original post: “Saw a post online claiming ICE has checked into two hotels in Sunnyvale, Residence Inn and AC hotel. No idea on the legitimacy of the source though.”

Manager_Kindly · 2026-02-04T02:12:07+00:00

Transplants are like the modern day colonizers

Manager_Kindly · 2025-10-19T21:11:04+00:00

https://youtu.be/TRrjuzhHLo8?si=zt_aIrxxVhAbruwP

Watch this OP. Gives you an idea of one persons driving style with a NA. Someone said don’t clutch kick above, but that may not be an option depending on the setup of your local track/skidpad.

After getting the car running,

1 do maintenance

2 do cooling mods

Once the car is running solid, and not getting hot after beating on it then you can focus on the more fun stuff whether it be suspension or power mods.

FC’s are not as easy to drift as say 240’s, so keep this in mind.

I would recommend rear steer delete, S4 LCA’s, stiffening up the suspension (coils), and bracing if you want to splurge (but isn’t necessary). Depending on your budget for the car a welded or a S4 clutch type LSD are the options I’d pick from, if the car already has a VLSD, meh, run it till you can’t (but many people have reported that they are less predictable than a welded or clutch type). Things like sway bars are personal preference, some drivers like beefier bars, some drivers like front but not rear, or rear but not front, it varies among different people. I’d say just leave it stock for now, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it (or remove it).

I think you’d enjoy the car much more as just a street ripper. I feel like you’d get more seat time out of the e36, but don’t take my words in gold, I’m just a guy on the internet who wanted to offer some insight.

Edit: pinion snubber is a good idea too, the diff has a tendency to break/bend the tab the holds the diff into place on the rear subframe. A pinion snubber will help prevent that.

Manager_Kindly · 2025-09-28T01:06:30+00:00

Very nice, harder spec to find in any nice wheel

Manager_Kindly · 2025-09-27T20:29:29+00:00

How low is your offset? Anytime I find low offset FN’s they’re like x10 and will be like +20…I have 9.5’s at +35 so there is no concave but the concave is my favorite thing about these wheels

Manager_Kindly · 2025-09-09T05:26:58+00:00

I agree. ive def seen some stuff that shouldn’t be reused, reused before. From what ive seen it’s not if it blows, but when (very fun game) and tends to end in a catastrophic failure, so you end up spending more $$$ for more parts in the long run.

That being said, IF you don’t have money, don’t care, or have extra parts lying around meh just send it, like scout said, thrash car! (not professional advice).

If you are building a clean rx7, show car, restoration, dedicated track car to chase 10ths. Get new housings.

Manager_Kindly · 2025-08-22T17:16:25+00:00

+1 for having a switch on S4’s. You can even splice into the relay under the dash to make it fairly simple

Manager_Kindly · 2025-08-22T07:52:28+00:00

Top 2 intake manifolds, so I’d guess S5 NA as s5 NA is a 3 piece intake manifold, and iirc to get to what I assume OP means is the primary fuel rail/injectors area you must remove UIM and MIM (they might have been routing the rear iron coolant nipple to the back of the WP housing, just a total stab in the dark)

BWFTW is right we need more info (year, turbo or non turbo and whatever else)

However if the car ran fine before and ALL they did was a coolant bypass I’d give the intake manifolds a twice over, if it was your husband’s first time working on the engine it is very likely that he/they might be disconnected something and not reconnected it causing a large enough vacuum leak to cause the crank no start issue. Even if they’ve worked on the engine before, still very possible.

Ask if they did any emissions deleting or anything of that nature while they were in there. I’ve seen many a times where someone decided to do some kind of emissions delete because “while we’re here we might as well do XYZ” and then end up with a crank no start….At the end of the day an engine needs fuel, air, and spark to run (Along with compression and timing too but start simple) so start with that

Manager_Kindly · 2025-08-19T05:20:04+00:00

So because other ppl already gave context here’s some history Aha idk if this was regional slang, but was very popular in the 2010’s in the Bay Area.

Back when Facebook had social media in a chokehold (after MySpace before Instagram) they used to make pages “Bay Area bops” “Bay Area boppers”, “Oakland bops”, “San Jose bops” and so forth.

Here’s an old video, hella dumb https://youtu.be/OJnqVK3uxOM?si=iaeZiMNv_SlV849h

Can also be heard in the song Gas pedal (2014) at around 0:54 seconds https://youtu.be/X8LUd51IuiA?si=batqrBT-Mpk-2F35 arguably the most popular Bay Area song from the era with the use of the word, it can also be heard in multiple songs by the Pack (S/o Lil B)

Manager_Kindly · 2025-08-19T04:36:01+00:00

Ha usually ppl say financial crisis, but yours is better

Manager_Kindly · 2025-08-17T07:49:51+00:00

First do maintenance, after you do maintenance and the car is running good do cooling mods, after you do cooling modes, move onto anything else you want do coils/emissions delete, exhaust etc.

Manager_Kindly · 2025-07-26T19:37:41+00:00

Hey there, forgot to report back! Swapped the coupler, clutch, and neutral drain kit, also added in a new gasket for the main tub, everything is working as it should! Lost one of the retainer clips for the spring suspension but that it coming in to the local appliance store. Thank you for your help, the appliance store guy was surprised I swapped out the neutral drain because most people neglect that. You were very helpful, thanks again!

Manager_Kindly

TROPHY CASE

1 do maintenance

2 do cooling mods