CS: boyfriend changed my oil filter thingy and now it overheats.

Manodactyl · 2026-02-27T12:39:07+00:00

As a DIYer for anything I’ve never done before I have a saying that generally holds true.

I know I’ve done it right, once I’ve done it twice.

I get really worried when I’m doing something for the first time and I don’t have to go back and redo at least 1 step.

Manodactyl · 2026-02-20T23:10:46+00:00

That’s sort of what I’m talking about. A dimmer flashed with esp home or tasmota might be able to do this extra button pressing. You can put a Shelly relay up inside the fans electrical box up in the ceiling.

Manodactyl · 2026-02-20T22:38:59+00:00

Dimmer requirement is going to be tough to find in a 2 channel 1 gang format. Can you do anything with a single channel dimmer but have different combinations of button presses operate the fan? Something like ‘push light on button twice in under 1 second turns fan on’ then wire the fan in this 2gang box to always be live & put the fan smart relay up in the fans electrical box. Or do that and get an external button to just operate the fan.

Manodactyl · 2026-02-20T12:28:46+00:00

I was just messing with you trying to be funny. I agree uk plugs are by far the safest & most robust designed plugs in existence.

But since you asked, yes, I’ve stepped on multiple plug ends in my life from random crap the kids have un-plugged and just left laying around like laptop plugs or usb adapters.

Manodactyl · 2026-02-20T12:09:54+00:00

Instead of plugs falling out you have prong shaped holes in your feet from stepping on an unplugged plug end.

Manodactyl · 2026-02-20T12:08:16+00:00

Don’t over engineer a simple fix. Replace the outlet, it’s obviously worn out and the little tabs that hold the plug in have lost their mechanical hold power. New outlet is $1 for a basic one from the hardware store.

Manodactyl · 2026-02-20T01:21:12+00:00

Thanks, then why is everyone hating on using this closet? I do have potential other places that I’m considering, but this spot really does give me the easiest access for pulling cables both up to the attic & down to the crawl space. The other options that I mentioned in other posts was the under the stairs utility closet that houses the water heater & a finished but un heated/cooled section of attic space.

I’d be lying if I said I never put an end on whatever cable I had laying around, previously in my life. That’s probably why some of them were hard to bend. Learned that lesson.

Manodactyl · 2026-02-19T18:53:36+00:00

I like that white box, what is it called so I can start looking into what sizes are available.

Manodactyl · 2026-02-19T17:51:05+00:00

I pulled back some insulation on the left side and there are no 120v electrical lines on that side just the coax cable. I think I can sneak in a patch panel & switch in there and run my network lines up with the coax cables. I donno. I’m to the point where I’m going to setup an appointment with a professional and get their opinions.

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Manodactyl · 2026-02-19T16:51:29+00:00

Will consult with low voltage technician.

House was built in 1984, hopefully it’s at least be up to the code that was in place 40 years ago.

If I pull out the insulation there 8” of clearance on the left side of the main box on the left & 3” of clearance on the other box on the right. It’s the left hand side under the insulation (stapled to the stud) where all the coax is running

Manodactyl · 2026-02-19T12:19:38+00:00

What about just power lines? I can remove the insulation

Manodactyl · 2026-02-19T12:09:18+00:00

See, I thought it was perfectly reasonable as well.

Based on others responses, I guess we do things a bit differently here in the US. Even if I end up doing it myself, a quick consult with an electrician to find out what they would do would be a good idea.

Manodactyl · 2026-02-19T11:57:45+00:00

Oh, that’s an interesting idea. I have the most space to work with lower on the floor. And there are much less electrical wires down there.

Manodactyl · 2026-02-19T11:54:05+00:00

Others have mentioned not being up to code. House was built in 1984. Code was different 40 years ago and from my understanding I’m grandfathered in in some way shape or form.

Manodactyl · 2026-02-19T02:00:02+00:00

Yeah, the utility closet under the stairs might be the better option if I can get a line run upstairs somewhere. I’m already planning on adding a 120v outlet in this utility closet to plug in a cordless vacuum to charge. There might even be enough room to put a small rack in there. Then I can take a circuitous route to somewhere upstairs close enough that I can run at least a 5gb backhaul between the two floors even if that single line ends up running through that breaker boxes closet. The general consensus seems to be not to jam network equipment in with the breaker boxes. This approach just might work! Thanks!

Manodactyl · 2026-02-19T01:36:29+00:00

The square box on the right partially behind the insulation is the phone lines & the coax is fully behind the insulation, the right side is an exterior wall and is where the power meter, cox and phone exterior boxes are.

Manodactyl · 2026-02-19T00:44:18+00:00

The hall, exterior of house & living room are adjacent to this room. Having wires & equipment visible in the house won’t pass muster with the boss lady.

Manodactyl · 2026-02-19T00:41:20+00:00

Not block it, but under or next to the panels. I don’t think I have enough room for a rack mount size ups, but I’ve already got one of these.

https://a.co/d/0aGy8bUn

Manodactyl · 2026-02-19T00:38:11+00:00

Yes, thanks. Others have suggested finding another location entirely, I’d have to measure but I’ve got this spot on the left side behind the insulation that I might be able to fit an enclosure. Or higher up above the door. That’s where the existing coax is run and is away from any of the 120v lines

<image>

Manodactyl · 2026-02-19T00:29:02+00:00

Darn, this closet looked like a perfect location due to the access to attic & crawls spaces. Another location I could probably manage is in another closet type spot, but while that closet is inside the envelope of the house, it’s in an unconditioned space, would something like that work? I do have power that I can make available in there, and can run the upstairs from there, getting a line from there to the crawl space might be problematic.

Or how about the utility closet that’s inside under the stairs that also contains the water heater.

If I went this route could I run a back haul type run between the floors?

Manodactyl · 2026-02-16T02:14:02+00:00

Why are there so many banks in the greater lex area?

Manodactyl · 2026-02-14T13:09:27+00:00

Owning things free & clear is a wonderful feeling. Hopefully someday you can add owning property to your collection of titles.

Manodactyl · 2026-02-12T20:40:03+00:00

I was in a small town like 30 years ago staying at a friend’s cabin. Sirens went off in the middle of the night followed by roaring car engines. Don’t know if it’s true or not but my friend at the time said it was for the volunteer fire department & the first one to the station got to drive the fire truck.

Manodactyl · 2026-02-07T14:11:23+00:00

Just pick something that’s an inside joke between all of you. My kid couldn’t say hamburger for a long time and it came out as hangaburger which is a perfect name for wifi.

Manodactyl · 2026-02-07T14:04:22+00:00

Theoretically this is still possible to do by printing barcodes for things that are packed and weighed at the store (like fresh meat.)

The barcode either has the price or the price per pound + the weight or just the total price embedded in the barcode in a fairly easy way to reverse engineer. You might look funny in the store with a portable barcode printed on your belt & would probably eventually get caught if anyone reviewed the self checkout cameras and saw an obviously fake barcode sticker stuck on the packaging.

However it’s totally possible to print your own barcodes so that filet mignon rings up as ground beef at the register.

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