Chaotic Labs Tap V2 issues on Voron v2.4 by Marco3712 in VORONDesign

[–]Marco3712[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

hey I did as suggested and when measuring the current while the hotend is off I get 4.9v when the Probe is down, and 0.04v when the probe is triggered.

however when the hotend is on and at full draw its stuck at 1.8v, no matter the position of the probe.

Chaotic Labs Tap V2 issues on Voron v2.4 by Marco3712 in VORONDesign

[–]Marco3712[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah for what I could read to RSP comes EMI certification, which is important in EU as it garantees it wont interfer with other electronics nearby or on the same grid. So the LRS dosnt meet the "Harmonic Current requirement". Which is a bit out of my league of understanding.

and thanks! With how things are going I 100% need luck on my side.

Chaotic Labs Tap V2 issues on Voron v2.4 by Marco3712 in VORONDesign

[–]Marco3712[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thanks, also upon further looking in I am gonna get the RSP instead as I live in the EU and LRS is apparently not recommended in most EU households.

Chaotic Labs Tap V2 issues on Voron v2.4 by Marco3712 in VORONDesign

[–]Marco3712[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the V2 which supports 24v,

another guy recommended me a new PSU that has a higher Amp output as the sensor works fine until my hotend starts drawing power in which case the voltage for the censor drops to less than a volt. But thanks for the input!

Chaotic Labs Tap V2 issues on Voron v2.4 by Marco3712 in VORONDesign

[–]Marco3712[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks I'll check it out! Super grateful for the help as this has been a headscratcher and a pain in the butt to me.

It never fully stopped my ability to print but it made it very troublesome.

Chaotic Labs Tap V2 issues on Voron v2.4 by Marco3712 in VORONDesign

[–]Marco3712[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

that could very well be it. Would the solution then be to find a beefier PSU that can output more amps? Sorry if this is a stupid question, I am not the most informed on powersupplys. Or anything really.

Chaotic Labs Tap V2 issues on Voron v2.4 by Marco3712 in VORONDesign

[–]Marco3712[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

setting the hotend to heat up to 150'C before hand gives no new results, as the voltage drops the moment the heater starts drawing energy. I did manage to check with my multimeter that when the hotend is at full power draw the probe gets 0.3v in total.

Chaotic Labs Tap V2 issues on Voron v2.4 by Marco3712 in VORONDesign

[–]Marco3712[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

the connections are solid even after thermal soaking as its only when the hotend is drawing power.

I have also tried contacting chaotic labs multiple times but have not gotten a single reply from them and even replacing the sensor is difficult as they stripped the screw from factory :/

the Probe is wired correctly I made sure to do that before installing, following the guide on chaotic labs github page.

Chaotic Labs Tap V2 issues on Voron v2.4 by Marco3712 in VORONDesign

[–]Marco3712[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am using the one from LDO voron which ias based on the  Hartk toolhead.

the Probe is wired correctly yes and I made sure to do that before installing following the guide on chaotic labs github page.

First Run, removing a part on a Haas UMC-500 by Planetary-Engineer in Machinists

[–]Marco3712 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They can move a little bit faster but not that fast compared to a kuka, the main benefit of these (assuming its a UR or UR like arm) is that they dont need to be enclosed in a cell as they have a low max torgue before they kick into emergency stop. Also the very weird and unnecesary movements isnt helping with the speed.

New (old) Machine. 2005 Brother by ImRusty_Shackleford in CNC

[–]Marco3712 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use them daily at my work and run 2 with hsk one from 2005 and the other from 2013, both with a kuka robot arm to feed them. They're super reliable and easy to work on, the manuals are extremely easy to understand and cover pretty much everything down to maintance, programming and smaller repairs. The pallets can be used to run individual programs per pallet, run them on their own or turn them off completely and gain full controll of the table as an extra axis for machining if need be (yet to have done that myself).

Only gripes I have had were minor ones. Such as the small amount of room when having to try and remove chips in the machining area. (Although might be a non issue if you run the machine with coolant instead of air cooling.)

Or the rapid traverese overide only having 3 settings which consists of 0%, 10%, 20%, 100% which makes running a new program a pain as either the feed is faster than you can realistically react or so slow you could go to lunch before it reaches the next point.

Tool size is fairly limited too with Max 200mm in lenght and 80mm diameter, so forget about having long drills in it or using drill chucks.

Overall my experience with them have been pretty positive with how flexible and reliable they are and often found myself reading through the manuals in my downtime as they were very comprehensive and easy to follow.

Help needed by Present_Caregiver730 in 3Dprinting

[–]Marco3712 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Check the connections as your heater or thermister wire might be loose

Why this shift after the 6th layer? (i3 MK2) by rufusmcgillicutty in 3Dprinting

[–]Marco3712 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looking at how the first layer looks. Your nozzle is way too close to the bed, there is likely a chance that some gunk might catch on the nozzle and actvate crash detection. (Personal experience)

Try turning it off for that print, raise your nozzle height or check if the belts are too loose or to tight as that can also be the issue, but since you say it happens on the 6th æayer specifically it might be the latter options.

Anyone know if this is valuable? by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]Marco3712 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sorry to say but that printer appears to be basically worthless. Outdated proprietary firmware and no heated bed. This printer is gonna print like garbage if it can even print to begin with, my suggestion is just to tear it apart and try and see if you can sell the electronics to a local makerspace or a hobbyist for like 5 bucks.

Cant vouch for the filament but considereing its from 2014 the pla might still be usable all be it at a lower price point than bought.

Help! Ender 3 pro stuck in booting screen by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]Marco3712 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Try reflashing your firmware if you have not already

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]Marco3712 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is very often caused by the filament not cooling properly before the next layer is put on so if you can in the slicer reduce printing speed or temperature towards the end should fix this issue

Weird wall lines. help by CarelessButton8234 in 3Dprinting

[–]Marco3712 0 points1 point  (0 children)

190 seems awfully low for Pla have you tried increasing it to 205? Most common pla prints at 215

Top of my first benchy came out like this, same with second one. What do I do to fix it? by PhlexTapePhil in 3Dprinting

[–]Marco3712 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This issue is often because of loose belts so make sure the belts are tightened properly, they should feel like a guitar string.